Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Guys,

 

 

Relating to the vibration issues many have, years ago I was taught that vibrations felt in the steering wheel were tire and wheel issues and vibrations felt in your driver's seat and / or butt were suspension issues. Does that still hold true today?

Posted

Well, as someone here guessed it, the bad vibrations are back. Going tonight to trade this piece of shit in on a 2500HD, hopefully. Going to a different dealership as well because I am tired of driving an hour plus every week for a shake that noone seems to have figured out.

Posted (edited)

So weirdest thing happened to me this morning. NO VIBRATION!! I haven't changed anything. Simply was driving home from work on the highway waiting for my steering wheel and console to start shaking and I was up over 80 mph and nothing. Smooth as glass. This is probably short lived but I don't know how it's possible. Maybe in my case it is these crappy tires? I bet everyone I passed on the highway thought I was a lunatic, smiling from ear to ear.

Edited by Schmidt152
Posted

Eight days later, I got my truck back with three new tires. It is much better, but not perfect. I hope it lasts.

Posted (edited)

Well that was short lived. Shimmy from 35-50 is back

 

Same thing has happened to me and my '16 Silverado, twice. Mystery....just plain fk'n weird.

 

 

Edit in;;; My nephew called me to shoot the shit, and said he's in the market for a new truck, said he really likes the Chevy's, and asked me how I liked my '16 Silverado Z71. I told him that it's a damn purdy fire engine red, the 5.3 is plenty adequate, it sifts smooth, and the seats are real comfy. And added that, sometimes it's not really all that pleasurable to drive due to the vibration and BS that goes along with it. He'll be looking at other brands, unless he finds a '13 1500 or older in real good condition.

 

As far as their trucks are concerned, GM is shooting themselves in the foot one buyer at a time.

Edited by Willyone
Posted (edited)

Well, as someone here guessed it, the bad vibrations are back. Going tonight to trade this piece of shit in on a 2500HD, hopefully. Going to a different dealership as well because I am tired of driving an hour plus every week for a shake that noone seems to have figured out.

 

Oh it wasn't a guess. Those of us who have been at this for 3 years have seen and heard it all.

 

Happy New Years everyone. Now get out of your trucks and go vibrate in much more fun ways lol

Edited by C6Bill
  • Like 2
Posted

 

Same thing has happened to me and my '16 Silverado, twice. Mystery....just plain fk'n weird.

 

 

Edit in;;; My nephew called me to shoot the shit, and said he's in the market for a new truck, said he really likes the Chevy's, and asked me how I liked my '16 Silverado Z71. I told him that it's a damn purdy fire engine red, the 5.3 is plenty adequate, it sifts smooth, and the seats are real comfy. And added that, sometimes it's not really all that pleasurable to drive due to the vibration and BS that goes along with it. He'll be looking at other brands, unless he finds a '13 1500 or older in real good condition.

 

As far as their trucks are concerned, GM is shooting themselves in the foot one buyer at a time.

 

Loyal Silverado owner since 93. Just bought a one owner 2013 short bed reg cab Z71 with 26k miles from an older prior owner. The price was below book and pretty sure it will be my last GM after this screwing they are laying on owners. I could have had a new Silverado with huge rebates as you all know but I don't trust them or their new trucks and yes...this will cost them over time

Selling my 06 ext cab if anyone is interested. In Mass near CT border.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

Not necessarily. My driveshaft was not true from factory like the video above and my truck vibrated between 60-70 mph.

 

RT

 

This is my next step, still having issues in the 65-75 range, and I have a whole new ring and pinion setup. I need to shorten my driveshaft anyways as I have one of those awkward ones that are a bit on the longer side. For what I have spent on this truck so far $450 for a custom drive shaft is a drop in the bucket to fix this issue. Hope to have it in in the next few weeks and will report back. Driveshaft and Axles are the only rotating parts after the transmission I haven't replaced yet.

Posted

First post, after reading most of this thread: Purchased 2016 crewcab, 6.5' bed, 6.2L w/ 3.23's in September.

Came with 22's. Noticed shaking at 73 mph+ on drive home from dealer in Montana (I live in WA state, but found what I wanted in MT, a 6.2 LTZ w/ the 40-20-40 front seat to accommodate kidlets).

Took a video of the shaking water bottle (like we've seen so much of on Youtube) and sent it to my salesman-- he said take it in to my local dealer. I figured it was the wheels, and since I planned on replacing them I held off on going to the dealer.

Got the wheels replaced with 18's a couple weeks after purchase, with Gear rims and Michelin Defenders (LT 275's) and guess what-- the shake remained.

Took it into my local dealer, explained the symptoms in great detail, brought in a copy of the service bulletin, and even provided the video I took. Picked it up a few days later-- they had let some air out of my tires, folded up my tonneau cover, and said "it's much better."

It wasn't.

Went back, and got the "it's a truck, they all do that. In fact we drove two others on the lot, and yours is better."

I told them this was unacceptable, so they had me come back in and they did the Pico test. They also ran the test with a different set of wheels, and according to the readout (which they provided a copy of) it was better, conveniently within spec, with the different wheels ( a set of 20's with Continental P tires that they had taken off a new truck).

I took my wheels back to the tire shop, and they did a balance, then a RFB, neither of which produced a discernible change.

Back to the dealer with a request to drive the truck with the 20" Continentals. It seemed a little better initially, perhaps due to the fact that they're P tires and not LT's. But there's still a vibration, though like many, it's somewhat intermittent.

 

So now what??? I asked the service manager to do the tests they line out in the service bulletin, but he said the first thing Chevy asks is if they've done the pico test, and if it's within spec, they won't authorize any more work.

I've called GM direct, much to the chagrin of my dealer, and have a case number going. I'm going to press for doing the tests on the drive shaft, ring and pinion, etc-- we'll see.

I understand the dealer is under GM's thumb, but it really pisses me off when they pass it off saying they all do it because the frame is so stiff.

 

My questions: Has anyone put airbags on the rear suspension? I understand this would only mask the symptoms, but I'm okay with that. I thought about the Sulastic shackles, but I believe Abominable tried that to no avail.

Has anyone tried different struts (or whatever they are) in the front? Again, masking the symptoms, but I'd take it.

I'm struggling with the notion that LT's would be worse than the P tires-- it seems the stiffer tire would simply transfer more road roughness, but anything originating from the truck wouldn't be affected. Maybe the slightly rougher ride from the LT's would just make the vibration seem worse.

 

Any help is appreciated-- I've never been more excited and then disappointed in a purchase!!

Posted

First post, after reading most of this thread: Purchased 2016 crewcab, 6.5' bed, 6.2L w/ 3.23's in September.

Came with 22's. Noticed shaking at 73 mph+ on drive home from dealer in Montana (I live in WA state, but found what I wanted in MT, a 6.2 LTZ w/ the 40-20-40 front seat to accommodate kidlets).

Took a video of the shaking water bottle (like we've seen so much of on Youtube) and sent it to my salesman-- he said take it in to my local dealer. I figured it was the wheels, and since I planned on replacing them I held off on going to the dealer.

Got the wheels replaced with 18's a couple weeks after purchase, with Gear rims and Michelin Defenders (LT 275's) and guess what-- the shake remained.

Took it into my local dealer, explained the symptoms in great detail, brought in a copy of the service bulletin, and even provided the video I took. Picked it up a few days later-- they had let some air out of my tires, folded up my tonneau cover, and said "it's much better."

It wasn't.

Went back, and got the "it's a truck, they all do that. In fact we drove two others on the lot, and yours is better."

I told them this was unacceptable, so they had me come back in and they did the Pico test. They also ran the test with a different set of wheels, and according to the readout (which they provided a copy of) it was better, conveniently within spec, with the different wheels ( a set of 20's with Continental P tires that they had taken off a new truck).

I took my wheels back to the tire shop, and they did a balance, then a RFB, neither of which produced a discernible change.

Back to the dealer with a request to drive the truck with the 20" Continentals. It seemed a little better initially, perhaps due to the fact that they're P tires and not LT's. But there's still a vibration, though like many, it's somewhat intermittent.

 

So now what??? I asked the service manager to do the tests they line out in the service bulletin, but he said the first thing Chevy asks is if they've done the pico test, and if it's within spec, they won't authorize any more work.

I've called GM direct, much to the chagrin of my dealer, and have a case number going. I'm going to press for doing the tests on the drive shaft, ring and pinion, etc-- we'll see.

I understand the dealer is under GM's thumb, but it really pisses me off when they pass it off saying they all do it because the frame is so stiff.

 

My questions: Has anyone put airbags on the rear suspension? I understand this would only mask the symptoms, but I'm okay with that. I thought about the Sulastic shackles, but I believe Abominable tried that to no avail.

Has anyone tried different struts (or whatever they are) in the front? Again, masking the symptoms, but I'd take it.

I'm struggling with the notion that LT's would be worse than the P tires-- it seems the stiffer tire would simply transfer more road roughness, but anything originating from the truck wouldn't be affected. Maybe the slightly rougher ride from the LT's would just make the vibration seem worse.

 

Any help is appreciated-- I've never been more excited and then disappointed in a purchase!!

I have airbags and NO CHANGE AT ALL. New struts and nothing. I have add a leafs and didn't change at all. Most guys have fixed the problem with mostly hard part's. IE driveline ring and pinions. Or whole rear axles. Just saying.

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Fred was in the fertilized egg business. He had several hundred young pullets, and ten roosters to fertilize the eggs He kept records, and any rooster not performing went into the soup pot and was replaced. This took a lot of time, so he bought some tiny bells and attached them to his roosters. Each bell had a different tone, so he could tell from a distance, which rooster was performing. Now, he could sit on the porch and fill out an efficiency report by just listening to the bells. Fred's favourite rooster, old Butch, was a very fine specimen, but this morning he noticed old Butch's bell hadn't rung at all! When he went to investigate, he saw the other roosters were busy chasing pullets, bells-a-ringing, but the pullets, hearing the roosters coming, would run for cover. To Fred's amazement, old Butch had his bell in his beak, so it couldn't ring. He'd sneak up on a pullet, do his job and walk on to the next one. Fred was so proud of old Butch, he entered him in the City Show and he became an overnight sensation among the judges. The result was the judges not only awarded old Butch the "No Bell Piece Prize," but they also awarded him the "Pulletsurprise" as well. Clearly old Butch was a politician in the making. Who else but a politician could figure out how to win two of the most coveted awards on our planet by being the best at sneaking up on the unsuspecting populace and screwing them when they weren't paying attention. Vote carefully in the next election, you can't always hear the bells.
    • Can someone confirm if the GM order workbench terminal is able to validate a custom build sequence:   1) Initialize the Allocation Base: Open a new vehicle build queue, select the 2026 Chevrolet Suburban 4WD, and pick the High Country (3LZ Preferred Equipment Group).   2) Select the Diesel Powertrain: Go directly to the engine configuration screen and choose RPO code LZ0 (3.0L Duramax Turbo-Diesel). Ensure it maps to the MHS 10-speed automatic transmission.   3) Deploy the Seating Swap: Navigate to the Interior Options screen and enter RPO code ATT to replace the standard captain's chairs with the power-release 60/40 bench seat. Because you are not trying to force a separate luxury or air-suspension bundle, the standard, premium D07 Fixed Floor Console remains active. The system will accept this change immediately without triggering a warning message.   3)Apply Heavy-Duty Hauling Capability: Input RPO code NHT (Max Trailering Package). The commercial terminal will automatically bundle the required trailering hardware and software modules to support the diesel engine's maximum towing capacity.   5) Layer the Premium Tech and Glass: Separately add code C3U (Panoramic Power Sunroof) and code UKL (Super Cruise) to the order screen.   6) Run the Final Validation: Click the "Validate Order" button at the bottom of the interface.
    • Spent the last hour or 2 googling and reading up on the spacer thing. I don't like the loss of thread contact on the slip on spacers, but it appears you can get "extended" lug nuts that reach into the hole of the wheel to get back the lost threads. Looks like the only true hubcentric slip on spacers are at least .375". I'd want as little as I could get away with and don't want to cause other clearance issues going any thicker. Bora seems to offer what appears to be a well made .375" spacer and extended lug nuts. I searched here and did find a couple threads recommending Bora. But not cheap. By the time I buy spacers and lugs, new TPMS sensors, then pay a tire shop to install the new sensors, I suspect I'm going to be in over $400. Thinking about running out and getting some washers to put behind the wheel to see if .375" is enough to clear calipers, turn lock to lock without rubbing, and to see if the wheels/tires look strange pushed out a little. This would just be to check fitment.
    • Roadmaster makes some quality parts; I have their sway bar. I considered the RAS, but I ended up bagging. I didn't know what kind of ride I'd get with RAS, and the bags have interior jounce bumpers, so I can run 0 pounds pressure. I figured I'd have the best of normal suspension ride with assist on-demand. But it seems you got pretty much the same in one item.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...