Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

I had my driveline straightened and balanced which took care of about 60% of the vibrations. (Yes driveline was not true and 2.5 ounces out of balance) As of right now the vibration feels like its coming from the front end through the steering wheel and pedals. Light acceleration and light braking is where you can feel It the most. Is this similar to what you are feeling? Just curious if the F-ed up rear end could transfer through to the front end of the truck?

Who did this work? GM?

Posted

Who did this work? GM?

 

No they just consistently look the other way so I took it to a local shop in Ventura, CA. Coast Driveline who have an old school guy that works with them who is one of the last people who can straighten aluminum drivelines by hand in the area. Only charged me $75 to straighten and balance it but also mentioned that with such a long and floaty one piece driveshaft I would be way better off with a steel 2-piece.

Posted

Not sure did it could transfer up front. But I know that my truck warps rotors every few weeks. Might have warped rotors. And my driveline is obviously not true. You can eye ball it and see it's way out.

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

My 2008 had warped rotors like crazy and rear end went out twice. I'm more under the impression I have an issue with the front transfer case or something with the 4 wheel drive system.

Posted

Original poster here. Wow, it's sad to see this still going on. I get updates every day on this topic but honestly I try not to read them anymore. I did want to share that after getting rid of my Silverado that the Seirra I traded for has always been much smoother. I've got 42k on the Seirra now and just put new tires on a few thousand miles back. I ended up going with the Kumho Road Ventures AT51's and I will say that the truck did get even better with these tires. A few weeks ago I noticed my truck was smoother than I've ever noticed it before it was like I was in a Buick, it was crazy. I don't know if I just had the perfect tail wind or what but it was like glass! It's usually pretty good but never that smooth.

 

Now just the other day I parked my truck outside my garage with the front tires on my garage apron and the rears on my gravel driveway. The apron has a slight incline to it. It was parked from Friday when I got home and I didn't drive it until Monday to go back to work. I don't know what happend or why but my truck shook for 10 miles going to work that morning worse than my old Silverado ever did. Got to work and thought I must have mud in the wheels but when I look they were clean. Drove home after work and the truck had been just fine ever since. This isn't the first time I've noticed it shake more after parking without moving it for a few days. I've noticed it with both trucks. If I leave the truck level on the driveway it seems fine after a few days so I don't think it's the tires flat spotting. I don't know what it would be but it's almost like when it's parked with the front end higher something is draining out of or into something after its sits for a few days inside the tranny or something.

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm new to the forum (bought my truck in August 2016). Having been active on previous forums for previous vehicles (Nissan Titan from 2006 to 2010, and a 4Runner from 2010 to 2016), I sought this site out pretty quickly.

 

I'm experiencing the vibration issues as well. I bought my 2014 truck last August. It was a 24 month lease return - perfect condition. But the vibration problem is bad, and like chasing a ghost. Steps I've taken:

 

  • Multiple dealer visits
  • Bought new tires one month after buying the truck (Firestone Destination ATs - tires I've had on 4 previous trucks/SUVs)
  • It shook uncontrollably - Firestone replaced the tires 3 times - the final time changed brands to Bridgestone Revo2 (BTW, super Kudos to FIrestone...they covered all of this thinking it was a tire problem)
  • Took it back to the dealer - I told them I suspected the drive shaft, or another drive train problem
  • They said that wasn't the problem - explained it is the "frame harmonics"
  • I took the truck to Advanced Driveline - the drive shaft was WAY out of spec - off center, out of balance and not straight...other than that, it was well made
  • Still some vibration - but the drive shaft repair helped

Having the tires rotated, balanced and alignment done tomorrow. If that doesn't work, I'm riding the warranty until they glow in the dark.

 

 

Somewhere down the road, I'll probably go the the Ford dealership to check out the F150s.

 

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I'm new to the forum (bought my truck in August 2016). Having been active on previous forums for previous vehicles (Nissan Titan from 2006 to 2010, and a 4Runner from 2010 to 2016), I sought this site out pretty quickly.

 

I'm experiencing the vibration issues as well. I bought my 2014 truck last August. It was a 24 month lease return - perfect condition. But the vibration problem is bad, and like chasing a ghost. Steps I've taken:

 

  • Multiple dealer visits
  • Bought new tires one month after buying the truck (Firestone Destination ATs - tires I've had on 4 previous trucks/SUVs)
  • It shook uncontrollably - Firestone replaced the tires 3 times - the final time changed brands to Bridgestone Revo2 (BTW, super Kudos to FIrestone...they covered all of this thinking it was a tire problem)
  • Took it back to the dealer - I told them I suspected the drive shaft, or another drive train problem
  • They said that wasn't the problem - explained it is the "frame harmonics"
  • I took the truck to Advanced Driveline - the drive shaft was WAY out of spec - off center, out of balance and not straight...other than that, it was well made
  • Still some vibration - but the drive shaft repair helped

Having the tires rotated, balanced and alignment done tomorrow. If that doesn't work, I'm riding the warranty until they glow in the dark.

 

 

Somewhere down the road, I'll probably go the the Ford dealership to check out the F150s.

 

 

 

 

 

its a buzz kill that the Firestones did not work out. I thought highly of them with my other vehicles just as you.

Posted

After 3 trips to the dealer for non warranty AC repairs in the past month I cut my losses and traded on a new Platnium F-150. Over 3 years I've replaced 2 coil packs, AC compressor, condenser, hoses, and AC module. Seat kept moving and the vibration was still hit or miss. Ford dealers seem to be wheelin and dealin with the new refresh coming later this year. I decided not to wait was the current front looks better IMO. I've never owned a Ford before today and I'm impressed. Wanted to keep my LTZ for many more years, but with 87k miles on my 2014 it was starting to nickle and dime me. VIbration never went away completely even with upgraded Nitto Terra Grapplers. So if you are still having vibration issues checkout the competition as I think you'll be pleasantly surprised.

 

Best of luck to everyone.

  • Like 3
Posted

So it seems like the general consensus of this thread is we have been had by buying over priced foreign built GM vehicles with a never ending list of poorly built, engineered and a lack of a QC program vehicles. From the wheels, brakes, cv axels, 4x4 differential, rear-ends, drive shafts, transmissions, steering linkage, motor mounts, cab mounts, frame supports, exhaust components, U-joints, roof panels to general motor failures that lead to vibration issues it seems no matter how you cut it, GM will not assist in any way generally because its going to cost money. Only until another catastrophe happens the best bet is to try to get out of the vehicles without getting bent over with finances and move far away from GM until they get their act together. Its sad but to avoid the raised blood pressure and frustration of driving a rambling $50k pig down the road day to day is worth much more than to try to fight with a bloated government backed corporation who cares nothing about quality. HECHO IN MEXICO!!!

  • Like 1
Posted

So it seems like the general consensus of this thread is we have been had by buying over priced foreign built GM vehicles with a never ending list of poorly built, engineered and a lack of a QC program vehicles. From the wheels, brakes, cv axels, 4x4 differential, rear-ends, drive shafts, transmissions, steering linkage, motor mounts, cab mounts, frame supports, exhaust components, U-joints, roof panels to general motor failures that lead to vibration issues it seems no matter how you cut it, GM will not assist in any way generally because its going to cost money. Only until another catastrophe happens the best bet is to try to get out of the vehicles without getting bent over with finances and move far away from GM until they get their act together. Its sad but to avoid the raised blood pressure and frustration of driving a rambling $50k pig down the road day to day is worth much more than to try to fight with a bloated government backed corporation who cares nothing about quality. HECHO IN MEXICO!!!

 

What mine? 28,000 miles 1yr ownership now........I have spent 200.00 for a Transmission flush for my own well being....and recently spent 60.00 for 2qty sets of wiper blades? Truck drives and rides as perfect today as it did off the lot? 20mpg's mixed driving it's fit and finish is superb I am amazed at how good it drives after 28,000 miles in one year.......I might be the only one who got a good vehicle from GM HUH?

Posted

 

What mine? 28,000 miles 1yr ownership now........I have spent 200.00 for a Transmission flush for my own well being....and recently spent 60.00 for 2qty sets of wiper blades? Truck drives and rides as perfect today as it did off the lot? 20mpg's mixed driving it's fit and finish is superb I am amazed at how good it drives after 28,000 miles in one year.......I might be the only one who got a good vehicle from GM HUH?

 

That's great! but 731+ pages of issues stands for something. As well as transmission, front differential and vibration issues, my 2 year old truck has paint flaking off it for no particular reason which is yet another problem. My dad as well has a 2016 and at 8,000 miles he lost the top end of his motor due to defects. Its good you have a good one but don't dog on the many with defective GM vehicles with issues that are well documented.

Posted

 

That's great! but 731+ pages of issues stands for something. As well as transmission, front differential and vibration issues, my 2 year old truck has paint flaking off it for no particular reason which is yet another problem. My dad as well has a 2016 and at 8,000 miles he lost the top end of his motor due to defects. Its good you have a good one but don't dog on the many with defective GM vehicles with issues that are well documented.

 

 

Obviously, your quite young as you spew the nonsense about GM and Government with your 10 posts. Please sell your vehicle and hit the FERD lots....I encourage you to do so!

  • Like 1
Posted

 

 

Obviously, your quite young as you spew the nonsense about GM and Government with your 10 posts. Please sell your vehicle and hit the FERD lots....I encourage you to do so!

 

Already on my way old wise one!

  • Like 1
Posted

Update: Dealership has replaced one front hub, both rear axle shafts and the ring and piñon. GM sent them a "special" set of tires and two of them road forced to over 30lbs (15 is max spec). NOW GM decided to send a field service rep to fix this thing. I am still without my truck and now going on well over 28 days being out of service.

 

I notified GM in writing and have talked to customer care. Long story short, My patience is wearing thin and NO ONE from GM wants to talk about the Elephant in the room. LEMON!

 

I keep giving the dealership the benefit of the doubt because they are truly trying to help here but if GM cannot step up here then its time to part ways.

 

One example of POOR quality control from their vendors is, My steering wheel leather has a bulge in it. Dealer has ordered TWO steering wheels and both had some kind of defect in them!

Posted

 

What mine? 28,000 miles 1yr ownership now........I have spent 200.00 for a Transmission flush for my own well being....and recently spent 60.00 for 2qty sets of wiper blades? Truck drives and rides as perfect today as it did off the lot? 20mpg's mixed driving it's fit and finish is superb I am amazed at how good it drives after 28,000 miles in one year.......I might be the only one who got a good vehicle from GM HUH?

nope, i had a great 2014 and now a great 2016.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...