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Posted

Hey guys. I just bought a 2014 Silverado Reg Cab with the 5.3L last week. Pretty excited about it. Already seems to be a pretty fun truck. I also have a 2006 Silverado Reg Cab with the 4.8L but that I left to my dad to drive. Anyways, a little about me, I'm 19, live in San Antonio, work in the oil field so I make a little money, just don't have time to spend it, but that's where online shopping kills me. Well here what I'd like to know..

 

I'm always online and I see all these newer model GM trucks turbo'd or supercharged with slicks dropped to the ground running 10's in the 1/4 and then driving them home and that's what I want. I already plan on dropping it, probably 4/6. I just want to know, what needs to be done to run times like that? All the way from rear gears to cams, and tire size to turbos. I currently have 3.28 rear gears and 255/70R17 tires. Just tell me everything like what brands I should use and prices on them. Also, I'm not gonna drive this truck very often. I spend most of my life in a company truck. I hope to hear from y'all. Thank you.

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Posted

Rob a bank. That would be a good start. But on a serious note if you have the funds. Turbos can be really temperamental with large amounts of boost. I have always preferred Pro charger type superchargers. A lot less plumbing involved. But the 2014s have a relative high compression ratio.(11 to 1) The trans and rear won't hold up very long, not to mention the u joints, drive shaft, ect. And I couldn't even imagine how the torque management and traction control would act. Running 10s is no joke. Just be prepared to buy at least two of everything . But I would love to see it when done. Good luck and keep the pics coming. :driving:

Posted

Go online hit supercharger, the world opens up. Your only young once, let the pros do it. They will even give you a warranty.

Posted

Feast your eyes on the worlds first 2014 sierra with a 6.2 and edelbrocks new e force supercharger. Hopefully it runs tomorrow!

e6ajymy9.jpg

 

 

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Posted

The real deal guy, ....and can maintain your factory warranty but expect the cost to be upward of $20K for a 6.2L performance pkg...

 

http://www.hennesseyperformance.com

Lucky him, he lives close to Houston, he can pick his upgrades, get warranty. There are a few good tuners in Houston. If he wants he can spend 20k and up. It doesn't cost that much to get started. Ive had a few done myself. The Hennessey Package for the 5.3 is 13k 500HP 3 year warranty. Lingenfelter is 8995.00

Posted

I'm getting edelbrocks 5 year 100k warranty and my sc is only costing me 2500 bucks!

 

 

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Posted

I'm getting edelbrocks 5 year 100k warranty and my sc is only costing me 2500 bucks!

 

 

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Ok,Ok, quit bragging IM so jealous. LOL
Posted

Lucky him, he lives close to Houston, he can pick his upgrades, get warranty. There are a few good tuners in Houston. If he wants he can spend 20k and up. It doesn't cost that much to get started. Ive had a few done myself. The Hennessey Package for the 5.3 is 13k 500HP 3 year warranty. Lingenfelter is 8995.00

I just looked and hennessey has a 6.2l kit already that says its 550 hp at the crank but they don't have a price listed.

personally I think the HP in a truck who's redline is 6,000 rpm is pretty worthless information. I would be more interested in the TQ numbers

Posted

I just looked and hennessey has a 6.2l kit already that says its 550 hp at the crank but they don't have a price listed.

personally I think the HP in a truck who's redline is 6,000 rpm is pretty worthless information. I would be more interested in the TQ numbers

The way it was explained to me was TQ gets you going HP keeps you going. When I had my first diesel it would pull anything at 400 ft.lbs of TQ, but at 160HP was a dog empty and accelerating, till I turned it up.
Posted

The way it was explained to me was TQ gets you going HP keeps you going. When I had my first diesel it would pull anything at 400 ft.lbs of TQ, but at 160HP was a dog empty and accelerating, till I turned it up.

that's an amateurs way of explaining it!

 

here's the facts, HP = Torque X RPM / 5252 this means that if the meat of your torque is low in the RPM band like on a diesel you'll always have way more torque than HP, but if your peak torque is near 5252 rpm or at least remains consistent throughout the revs you'll have more HP than TQ

 

TQ translated is quite literally the twisting force of the engine, think of it like applying a torque wrench on the crank and trying to muscle the engine down the road. hp is how much torque you can apply at higher rpm (above 5252)

 

hp is a calculation of the amount of work being done over a given time period. that's why it's affected or multiplied by the RPM.

 

the same way as if you are applying torque against a bolt that doesn't move will yield 0 hp but your still applying 400 foot pounds of torque! you're just not getting any work done..

since the engine spins only 748 rpm past 5252 the HP number doesn't tell me much, cause I am never in that rpm range!

 

take a Honda s2000 engine, it makes 240 bhp but only has 156 lbs of tq yet it has a redline of 9,000 rpm! assuming the tq stays the same at 7,000 rpm the math says it will make 207.9 hp @ 7000 rpm

 

 

with that in mind and im guessing the transmission shifts around 5700 you never really experience much of the HP. sure it's still a valid figure but what good does it do for me? bragging rights? (that's why manufacturers use it because it's usually the largest number)

 

the fact is no matter what car your in, the torque or twisting force output at the crank is exactly what your feeling that makes the car move! The Hp is the net result of the work that's being done,

you might as well express HP in WATTS because you don't feel HP at all it's calculated! where as torque is MEASURED it's a physical characteristic of the twisting force of the engine through the transmission.

and a DYNO measures torque at the drum, but calculates HP based on the fact it's calibrated by the amount of twisting force applied at the wheels to spin up a drum of known weight (inertia) or against something who's brake force is measured (eddy current)

 

but I am in no way a dyno expert. I think I am fairly accurate here, so if someone who is a dyno expert wants to come in an correct me please feel free!

 

here is another example, a lawn mower who has a 5.5 hp engine seems a small amount of hp. but the fact is most all small engines including most go carts have a governor on them either by oil pressure or by the air spinning off the flywheel that regulate their speed, with a spring and a set screw.

they never were designed to run past 2400 rpm. they are also designed to make maximum torque at that speed. but if you put a cam in one with a high lift and advance the lobe timing, tuned it to run in a higher rpm band around 5k with the same torque that motor would make closer to 10 hp,

but the twisting force is the same because you haven't changed the displacement, or the stroke (longer crank) or the bore (amount of surface area of the cylinder) or increased the compression (bigger bang)

 

lets say it was a go cart, and you allowed it to make peak hp (or tq) near its max rpm and put a transmission behind it, now when you go racing you get to stay in the meat of the Torque band in every gear, but you would loose the low end torque that you need to maintain economy on the highway when your in the taller gears.

Posted

I'm liking that talk guys and that was a great explanation, but I have another question pertaining to what I first asked. What of I were to only build the top of my 5.3L like cam, heads, springs, valves, intake, headers, exhaust? Would I make good power but still not even come close to a turbo'd one? Would kind of torque could I be looking at and what price for just the top?

Posted

Performancetrucks.net is where I found all the info I needed to build my truck. Lots of people there with more knowledge than I could ever have. Info for the k2xx trucks is harder to find because they are new though

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