Jump to content

Oil plug design, anyone know why it is designed this way?


Recommended Posts

Posted

The oil plug on my CTD "Cruze Turbo Diesel" is one I have never seen before.

I can say it makes one hell of a mess, since as soon as you back it out two threads it starts to piss oil everywhere. We all know, diesel oil sucks being so black and it gets hot.

Anyhow, here is a picture of my drain plug. Just don't understand why GM designed it this way. Must be a reason. If I can put a Fumoto valve in, that is what I plan on doing. Just got to make sure it will work and not mess anything up. Can't see why it would.

On to the pictures.

8B502D61-6DE8-4C78-B61A-FFB47C9AF72D_zps
F62A8C37-D5B8-4E6E-A97C-40E7FF43345C_zps

Posted

A quick search claims it will supposedly drain through those little holes. But it certainly is strange.

Posted

It drains through the holes alright, and spreads out across the oil pan and splashes everywhere! What a mess it makes if you don't hold the drain pan up close.

Posted

Chevrolet's turbo-diesel four-cylinder was designed in Torino, Italy, and is manufactured in Kaiserslautern, Germany. It's not a new engine, as it is already being used in Opel Astras and various other GM vehicles around the world. Still, the U.S. version is unique, including the engine oil pan drain plug.

 

Engine Oil/Filter Capacity

Notice: DO NOT overfill the diesel engine when performing an engine oil/filter change. If the diesel engine is overfilled, the engine can continue to run when turned OFF by using the additional oil as fuel, resulting in internal engine and exhaust system damage.

When performing an engine oil/filter change, it is critical that the diesel engine is not overfilled. Including the oil filter, the engine oil capacity is 4.75 quarts (4.5 liters) of oil.

 

Engine Oil Pan Drain Plug:

Notice: DO NOT remove the engine oil pan drain plug when changing the engine oil. Removing the engine oil pan drain plug completely will result in the engine oil pan drain plug gasket becoming dislodged or lost.

The engine oil pan drain plug looks like a banjo bolt, but acts more like a valve. This type of drain plug does not have to be removed to drain the oil. Just unscrew it a few turns and the oil will flow out of the holes in the bolt.

 

Notice: DO NOT remove the engine oil pan drain plug when changing the engine oil.

 

 

 

Posted

How many radial holes are there? Just one or opposing two?

Posted

The plug being designed that way will allow a person who overfills the oil sump to drain off excess without redoing the whole oil change, thus highly increasing the probability that an overfilled sump will actually be dealt with properly.

Posted

I think it was my 2001 I had, they had it designed so prefect that when you pulled the oil pan drain plug the oil would come out hit the exhaust pipe and spray in a fan shape and the shit would go everywhere but in the pan. I got smart after the 4th oil change and made a back splash deflector to prevent it. :mad:

Posted

How many radial holes are there? Just one or opposing two?

There are 4 holes total.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Getting greedy...   The AC pump has been replaced at least once per service records, and it's been recharged twice since 2018 or so, in approximately 2 year intervals between those charges.   It was done at the same shop...clearly they were enjoying the revenue of recharging the system periodically versus actually tracking down and fixing the leak. I learned that the owner was 88 years old when she passed in 2023, so maybe they assumed only a temporary fix was needed anyway.   The system is basically empty now, the compressor spins freely, so I'm guessing it "just needs a recharge".   I vacuumed it down, and it has basically held overnight. Doesn't appear to leak under vacuum, check! So it must leak under pressure. I don't have a way to pressurize the system and pressurizing it with shop air wouldn't be great for the air dryer (which is probably toast anyway?)   The dryer (accumulator? I'm not an AC expert) has a Schrader valve, but the high side has an old ball-type valve, which are notorious for leaking. It's clearly had schmutz blown out of it at one point because the line/area next to the valve is coated old black crud, which I assume is AC refrigerant residue/oil, or maybe even dirty dye. I think I'll roll the dice and replace the valves. I have a black light around here somewhere so I'll find it and shine it around the engine bay in the dark to see if there's any dye.   I can't think of another way to track down the leak other than injecting some dye (if it doesn't have any) and having it charged up. We can't buy R134a off the shelf here anymore, so I'll run it up to Jiffy Lube and have them do it. I think I have a coupon. At the very least, the charge should last long enough for a year or two, according to history. I think this truck will be long gone by then. But cold AC is a selling point.    
    • Got the truck back today.  Called them yesterday to get an update, and miraculously my truck is finished?!?! The $13k out the door was complete bullshit!  Ended up being over $14k.  They added some bullshit service bulletin that I cant even find, where they replaced my radiator without telling me or asking me, and charging me for it.  Need to do more research into it, cause they leaked the first delivered radiator was ran over by FedEX.  Sounds like bullshit to me. 2.5 Months for an engine swap, which ended up being remanufactured, not new; ****ing ridiculous.  Brakes are squishy as hell, not sure if its from sitting.  Will give a couple days to see it that figures it self out.  GAVE IT BACK TO ME WITH 1 GALLON OF GAS!  Just filled the tank the day before drop off, more bullshit.  My dash cam SD card was formatted, not really much I can do about that. 3 year, 100k GM warranty at least.  Time to sell it and say **** off to GM.  Bad experience.  Cant wait for the survey email to come through.  Overpriced Raptor R, here I come!
    • If I forget the phone in the truck, and forget the truck in the phone, and reconnect.  It works great for the day.  Truck sits overnight, and the next day is a no go.  It will connect Android Auto via usb cable, but not bluetooth.   Ive tried Everything in this thread so far, and nothing works for more than a day.   I think I might have to go to the dealer and have them flash the pcm.   thanks for all the suggestions guys. 👍
    • 2022 2500HD Crew Z71 Duramax single alternator.  Recently had the primary (water pump / fan) belt tensioner pulley bearing to fail while hundreds of miles from home of course the plastic pulley melted and belt shredded which took out some wiring. Found a replacement tensioner assembly and belt to continue now would like to find a replacement for just the pulley and bearing to have a spare assembly in case of a repeat, the rest of the tensioner is fine. Has anybody here found a correct replacement part for just the pulley and bearing? Any help is appreciated.
    • +1 for the 3.0   Perfect for 1500 pickup towing duties.   Perfect engine for a 1500 pickup period. Huge torque at stunningly low RPM makes it feel a lot lighter than it is. The fuel mileage is insane for a tall and heavy 1500... 30+ on the highway. Mid 20's around town.   It's probably not perfect if you bought a 6.2 for the braaaaaaapppppp V8 noises and wrapping it out to 6k. The LZ0 acts and sounds like a small turbo diesel and there's nothing you can do to make a small turbo diesel sound like a big one, and you can't make an inline diesel sound like a V8 diesel/big Duramax. It's a different driving experience altogether.   Drive one, I think you'll like it, though...
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...