Trying to decide on the 1500 Max Trailering or a 2500 diesel.

[99-ls1-ss]

Valid questions and points. Just to make sure things are clear, the issue of stopping was with the Jeep Commander and no the current setup with the 1500 and the equipment trailer. I've never had an issue with stopping the 20' equipment trailer while towing behind my truck. The bigger axles and brakes are one of the reasons why I over bought in terms of capacity when I was trailer shopping. BTW I'm using a 20' version of one of these: http://www.kaufmantrailers.com/equipment-trailers/equipment-trailer/10000-gvwr-standard-wood-floor-equipment-trailer/

 

OP, have you had the chance to drive any of the vehicle models your interested in? Without a doubt the 2500 will handle what your talking about significantly better than a 1500 max tow and a D-max will do the job even better. However there are some trade offs, generally in terms entry costs.

 

I mean if you're into that type of thing the difference in price between a new D-max and a 2500 could be the cost of hydraulics and a grapple for that "L" you're pulling or a top-n-tilt for setup for the 3 point. If you don't mind sharing, have you thought of what a realistic budget might be?

Very good points on the grapple and the hydraulic tilt for the 3 point. I already have the hydraulics run to the front. Had that done when I bought it.

Without trying to come across as a douche, the cost of the truck matters but I can afford either. The money/budget isn't the issue. I truly want to buy the right truck for my situation and minimize the regret of not buying the right truck. If I get the diesel, I know it is overkill for a daily driver. If I get the 1500 I'm worried it won't do what I need sometimes. I feel like I'm between a rock and a hard place. Im trying to get opinions of people that have experience.

[Hockeylover86]

Very good points on the grapple and the hydraulic tilt for the 3 point. I already have the hydraulics run to the front. Had that done when I bought it.

Without trying to come across as a douche, the cost of the truck matters but I can afford either. The money/budget isn't the issue. I truly want to buy the right truck for my situation and minimize the regret of not buying the right truck. If I get the diesel, I know it is overkill for a daily driver. If I get the 1500 I'm worried it won't do what I need sometimes. I feel like I'm between a rock and a hard place. Im trying to get opinions of people that have experience.

 

Very good points on the grapple and the hydraulic tilt for the 3 point. I already have the hydraulics run to the front. Had that done when I bought it.

Without trying to come across as a douche, the cost of the truck matters but I can afford either. The money/budget isn't the issue. I truly want to buy the right truck for my situation and minimize the regret of not buying the right truck. If I get the diesel, I know it is overkill for a daily driver. If I get the 1500 I'm worried it won't do what I need sometimes. I feel like I'm between a rock and a hard place. Im trying to get opinions of people that have experience.

Just like when you went shopping for that tractor, the same holds true for a truck.

 

Buy the most capable you can afford, and you will never have an issue.

[muddkatt]

The old GMC has the tow package, transmission cooler etc. The new truck is "supposed" to be the daily driver and only used to tow if the other truck happens to be down for a repair. I have to be able to pull a trailer to do my job, so its a back up plan. The Mrs. wanted an SUV, so we looked for a used Tahoe or Escalade. We couldn't find a used one worth driving for under 30K, She spotted a used 2011 Silverado with a 5.3, 3.42 gears and they wanted about 28K for it, 38000 miles, with some add ons she liked. I drove it and saw that the the 3.42 gave good acceleration and knew that it would do the job if I needed to pull a trailer.

 

I went online and looked up the options that I wanted...cooled seats, black on black, G80, and at least 3.42 gears. There was 2 in my area, the Chevy I bought and a Denali with the 6.2 and 8 speed. I never drove either one, just tried to "deal" with the salesman on each. The Chevy dealer made me the best deal, so I bought it without even driving it.

 

To answer your questions, I have owned a 2500. It was a 1977 with a 350, TH350, and 3.73 gears. It did the job, but rode rough when not loaded. I like a good ride when I am not loaded. Stopping is all about the trailer brakes, or lack there of. Good brakes on a trailer will stop nearly as good as an empty truck. Bad or no brakes and it don't matter if you are pulling with a dually, a loaded trailer WILL push you through a red light, stop sign etc. if you don't allow for the stopping distance. Not a fun way to drive.

 

The heaviest load is my boat and trailer and it weighs in at about 11,000 pounds. I only tow locally with it. That trailer has the surge brakes...last one of those I will ever buy.

[redwngr]

The LML drivetrain and chassis is the same from 11 to current.

 

http://www.maxxtorque.com/2010/12/2011-duramax-lml-review-built-to-tow.html

[muddkatt]

That Kabota weighs about 4000 pounds according to tractordata.com. The 1500 will be fine pulling it.

[99-ls1-ss]

That Kabota weighs about 4000 pounds according to tractordata.com. The 1500 will be fine pulling it.

My tractor weighs ~3700 lbs without the front end loader. The front end loader weighs just under 2000 lbs. I have the tires filled and that's another 900 lbs. The trailer weighs around 3000 lbs. The box scraper weighs 500 lbs and the rotary mower weighs 700 lbs and the tractor will have at least one of these on it when I haul it.

[muddkatt]

My tractor weighs ~3700 lbs without the front end loader. The front end loader weighs just under 2000 lbs. I have the tires filled and that's another 900 lbs. The trailer weighs around 3000 lbs. The box scraper weighs 500 lbs and the rotary mower weighs 700 lbs and the tractor will have at least one of these on it when I haul it.

Either truck will work fine, it comes down to do you want a real smooth ride, and if you go diesel, how much more the diesel upgrade cost and availability of fuel. Diesel is not always available at every station.

 

Price out both trucks with the same options, look at the price, determine how often you will be towing and if the upgrade is "worth it".

[Panik]

Very good points on the grapple and the hydraulic tilt for the 3 point. I already have the hydraulics run to the front. Had that done when I bought it.

Without trying to come across as a douche, the cost of the truck matters but I can afford either. The money/budget isn't the issue. I truly want to buy the right truck for my situation and minimize the regret of not buying the right truck. If I get the diesel, I know it is overkill for a daily driver. If I get the 1500 I'm worried it won't do what I need sometimes. I feel like I'm between a rock and a hard place. Im trying to get opinions of people that have experience.

 

LOL! Honestly, you're not sounding like a douche at all. Your price points and comfort with spending are a pretty damned important part of the equation and can play a pretty important part in overall satisfaction.

 

If it were me and I didn't have to be as concerned about price and long term gas mileage costs I would skip the 1500 and purchase the 2500. I like the idea of having the extra capacity for "growth" so to speak down the road. I own 10 acres, help my mother in law out and help the next door neighbor out with landscaping. I can foresee the possibility of hitting the limits of my 1500 down the road, I just couldn't reasonably justify the gas costs and entry costs into a 2500 when I purchased.

 

I think a max tow 1500 would meet your needs at the frequency of towing you specified. However, if you can comfortably afford a 2500 and like the way it handles I say go for it and don't look back. As for a D-max, I can't help you there..... sounds like it might be a bit much for your current needs, but I don't have experience in that area. This to me kinda sounds like a bell curve type of situation: A max tow 1500 will handle it but it will be near the limits. The D-max has more than enough power but may be overkill as a daily driver. The sweet spot sounds like a 2500.

 

I can saw that when I was working for FL FWC about 10 years ago I regularly towed boats and dead manatees with DRW 2500's and F-250's and honestly was surprised at the ride quality and power at the time. Outdated info I realize, but still maybe helpful.

 

BTW, if you haven't already check out http://www.tractorbynet.com/ . It is a pretty awesome tractor forum with lots of cool ideas for tractor mods and general idea. More importantly they have an extensive trailer/transportation sub-forum with plenty of folks that have similar setups and questions about the options you are considering. Prior to having found this forum I actually got a lot of good advice there when shopping for my truck

[crushNchowda]

Didn't read all the replies - you're towing some pretty heavy stuff fairly regularly that would be right near the limits of what the 1/2 ton max tow is rated for. I would get the diesel 2500 and be done w/ it - you'll never have to worry about loading up the cab of the truck w/ people and gear while also towing and it'll pull better and stop better in every situation.

 

I'll also mention that I don't mind how the HD's ride....I enjoy it actually (I have a '15 6.2 1/2 ton tho), and not sure if anyone else mentioned this as well but you can plow w/ a 2500 crew cab and you can't w/ a 1500....so that's another advantage

[SMiller]

To put a different spin on things I prefer the firm/stiff ride of the HD truck over the half ton, go drive both back to back and I am positive one will clearly win over the other as they really are night and day different even when unloaded.

[FishinJ]

To put a different spin on things I prefer the firm/stiff ride of the HD truck over the half ton, go drive both back to back and I am positive one will clearly win over the other as they really are night and day different even when unloaded.

 

This is what I did and got the 1500 because I felt every bump in the road with the 2500 and it was a jolt on bigger bumps. My boat is no where near towing max but if it was I would have given it a lot more thought. To the OP if you towing for long distances and on the highway I would suggest the 2500 but if you only going short distances then the 1500 may work for you. My 1500 rides very good.

[mbrand]

I have the 1500 with Max Tow. Prior vehicle was Yukon XL 2500. The 2014 1500 does a much better job than the Yukon XL. I'm typically towing @ 5,000 (trailer with 4 ATV's), but when loaded up tractor with bush hog and loader onto a 3,300 lb trailer I'm nearing 9,000lb. I'll often borrow my brothers 2006 F350 with the diesel. Can my 1500 do it - Yes. Just feel that I have much better control with the F350 and do love the fact that I can get onto the highway without concern. Plus, you can mod the diesel...

 

For what you want to do the 1500 will work. But you'll wear it out much sooner, as it in my opinion isn't able to tow heavy loads on a semi frequent basis. There is a reason they beef up the systems, axles, tires, and so on with the 2500 series. Try the 2500 because it will be a daily driver most of the time. If you don't like the ride, get the 1500. BUT, if you like the ride I'd lean towards the diesel. It will certainly holds its value, and while more expensive to buy and more expensive to service, when factoring in the resale, your numbers will be fair bit closer over the life of the vehicle.

 

You can't go wrong either way.

 

On a side note - make sure you've got a great trailer, good tires, brakes, and loaded properly. The trailer is a big factor in the towing experience when pushing the weights up.

[seansharley]

So, have you driven both yet?

I'm currious, because I've been thinking about going to a diesel. The old saying "you can never have too much truck when it comes to towing.. Etc... What if down the road you want a bigger tractor, or like someone else mentioned, plow snow? I love my 1500, but in your situation would be leaning toward the 25

 

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[2004lebanshee]

Save on a 5.3 1500 or ugrade to a 6.6 dmac. Spending 50 plus for a max tow and 6.2 is a waste. Its only 1000 more towing no more payload and the problem with a 1500 is brakes and suspension not power. The new 5.3 is as capable as a 90 3/4 ton power wise. No prob getting it going under 9000 lbs. Brakes and suspion is the issue.

[Spurshot]

I've towed horses with 1 tons, 3/4 tons, and 1/2 tons, from 16,000 lbs with the 1 tons to 7500 with 1/2 tons. Brakes, longer wheelbase, stiffer suspension, tires and frames all play into the equation. A stock 1/2 ton has OEM tires on it that, in my book, are not safe for towing loads as heavy as you are talking about. I don't care what GM says. I've seen too many sidewall failures to push a car rated tire that hard. Their assessment of those tires is when they are brand new.

 

I didn't see how far, how often, what type of terrain you'd be towing in. Highway? Mountain roads? That plays into it as well.

 

Certainly you can set up a 1/2 ton to do the job, especially if the driving is local and not mountainous. If you go with a 1/2 ton, I'd recommend LT tires with at least a D rating, preferably a E rating depending on how much towing you're doing. Also, air bag suspension would help with a tall load that tends to transfer load to the vehicle on braking.

 

Check the hitch rating to make sure you aren't exceed it.