Jump to content

POST PICTURES OF YOUR BODY LIFTS (2014+)


1badtie

Recommended Posts

Posted

any specific reason everyone is going with the zone 1.5" vs the RC 1.25"? Also I'm guessing truck will not need an alignment after installation correct?

  • Replies 427
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

For me it was the same reason I chose the RC 2.5" level, just a little extra clearance without full suspension lift.

Posted

 

2 inch zone level and 1 and a half zone body lift. rims are 20x10 -24mm tires are 305 55 20

it rides great and sits nice and level

 

that looks badass.

Posted

 

2 inch zone level and 1 and a half zone body lift. rims are 20x10 -24mm tires are 305 55 20

it rides great and sits nice and level

 

 

 

your truck looks almost nose high with just a 2" level

 

my truck still has a half inch of rake with a 2.5" level. Is the photo lying or does your truck really sit nose high? either way looks great.

Posted

Could someone recommend what kind of lift I should get to level the front out with the back on my 2015 Chevy Silverado 4x4 z-71?? Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Posted

 

 

your truck looks almost nose high with just a 2" level

 

my truck still has a half inch of rake with a 2.5" level. Is the photo lying or does your truck really sit nose high? either way looks great.

Looks like he has the original wheels and tires in the bed so that might be enough to lower it in the rear a bit and make it lower in the rear in that pic.

 

Personally I like some rake in them (but not as much as factory usually), otherwise when you haul something or tow a trailer they look overloaded, but the leveled look is the trend it seems

 

Nice looking truck.

Posted

Could someone recommend what kind of lift I should get to level the front out with the back on my 2015 Chevy Silverado 4x4 z-71?? Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

IMO the leveling kits all do the same thing, usually either 2" or 2.5". Each brand that makes them has a marketing pitch of why there's is better but in the end, they are a spacer at the top of the front spring/shock assembly that raises the front. Some use a piece under the spring in addition to the top.

 

Some folks say the 2" kits put less stress on ball and CV joints which makes sense. Anything over 2.5" doesn't seem to be good.

 

I would just decide how much you want to raise the front and go for it

 

 

Hope that helps.

Posted

IMO the leveling kits all do the same thing, usually either 2" or 2.5". Each brand that makes them has a marketing pitch of why there's is better but in the end, they are a spacer at the top of the front spring/shock assembly that raises the front. Some use a piece under the spring in addition to the top.

 

Some folks say the 2" kits put less stress on ball and CV joints which makes sense. Anything over 2.5" doesn't seem to be good.

 

I would just decide how much you want to raise the front and go for it

 

Also, you asked about an alignment after a body lift; body lift doesn't do anything to change your suspension, but a leveling kit or any suspension lift will require an alignment after install.

 

Hope that helps.

That does help a lot...but I asked the dealer if they could do it and they are trying to charge around $900. I don't think that is right what do you guys think?

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Posted

any specific reason everyone is going with the zone 1.5" vs the RC 1.25"? Also I'm guessing truck will not need an alignment after installation correct?

I did the Zone to get the extra half inch I think but it's been a while since I ordered it. Seems like it had better instructions online at the time too and I was ordering an add-a-leaf from them as well so just made since.

 

Also, you don't need an alignment for a body lift, just for a leveling kit or suspension lift

 

Hope that helps.

Posted

That does help a lot...but I asked the dealer if they could do it and they are trying to charge around $900. I don't think that is right what do you guys think?

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

That sounds extremely high to me for just the level but I did mine myself. I would just check around, it's not anything vehicle specific where the dealer should do it so any tire shop or mechanic can do it.

 

It's basically like changing the shocks, no special tools are required on these trucks. And it will be easy if the truck is new so there won't be any rusted tight bolts etc like with an older vehicle.

 

I think you'll find it cheaper somewhere else.

Posted

That sounds extremely high to me for just the level but I did mine myself. I would just check around, it's not anything vehicle specific where the dealer should do it so any tire shop or mechanic can do it.

 

It's basically like changing the shocks, no special tools are required on these trucks. And it will be easy if the truck is new so there won't be any rusted tight bolts etc like with an older vehicle.

 

I think you'll find it cheaper somewhere else.

Thank you magstar for the advice...want to ask one more question.. The dealer also said they would need to modify the struts? Is this needed to install a leveling kit on the front? On a brand new 2015

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

Posted

Thank you magstar for the advice...want to ask one more question.. The dealer also said they would need to modify the struts? Is this needed to install a leveling kit on the front? On a brand new 2015

 

Sent from my XT1254 using Tapatalk

I don't think so but it has been a while since I did mine. Mine was a 2.5" kit from Top Gun Customs and it was the two piece variety where there is a spacer above and a spacer below the strut assembly. Seems like the kits that only used a spacer on top possibly required grinding down the length of the studs on top of the strut to some extent but I'm not sure on that. It may also vary by brand of the kit too. Sorry I can't answer that better

Posted

post-16956-145201510674_thumb.jpg

 

post-16956-145201514169_thumb.jpg

 

I don't leave the camper shell on year around but don't have any yet of it with level and body lift without camper shell.

post-16956-145201506282_thumb.jpg

post-16956-145201506282_thumb.jpg

post-16956-145201510674_thumb.jpg

post-16956-145201514169_thumb.jpg

post-16956-145201506282_thumb.jpg

post-16956-145201510674_thumb.jpg

post-16956-145201514169_thumb.jpg

post-16956-145201506282_thumb.jpg

post-16956-145201510674_thumb.jpg

post-16956-145201514169_thumb.jpg

Posted

 

 

your truck looks almost nose high with just a 2" level

 

my truck still has a half inch of rake with a 2.5" level. Is the photo lying or does your truck really sit nose high? either way looks great.

 

it is not nose high i guess the wheels and tire weighted it down plus where i took that picture there is decline. and thank you i love the way it looks as well. I planning on ordering a set of super spring. they are basically helper spring to help keep from getting the over loaded look.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Are you playing Slide Down endlessly but your score is still low? Are you constantly crashing into obstacles as the game speed increases? Don't worry, this article will share 5 invaluable tips to help you master the race and impress your friends. Golden Rules 1. Look one step further. The mistake of 90% of new players is only staring at their character. The secret of experts is to look towards the top of the screen (where the slide is about to appear). This gives your brain an extra 0.5 - 1 second to process the situation and determine the direction of movement before the obstacle approaches. 2. Use gentle movements; don't swipe too hard. Slide Down is very sensitive. Moving your finger too forcefully or with excessive amplitude will cause your character to be thrown off course or crash into a wall. Practise moving your finger with small, decisive, and precise movements. 3. Don't be greedy for gold in dangerous locations. Gold coins are tempting for buying skins, but life is more important. If you see a gold coin right on the edge of a cliff or next to a spike trap, ignore it. Our goal is a High Score, and your score only increases if you survive. 4. Make the most of Power-ups. During the slide, you'll encounter items like Magnets (attract gold) or Shields (temporary invincibility). Never miss them! Especially the Shield, it's your "get out of jail free card" to help you get through those deadly fast sections. 5. Stay calm when speed peaks. When your score exceeds 500 or 1000, the game speed will be very fast. At this point, don't try to think logically; let your natural reflexes work. Take deep breaths and don't panic. Apply these 5 tips to your next game, and your leaderboard will surely improve dramatically. Good luck climbing the Slide Down leaderboard!
    • If you use compressed air regularly, one problem you cannot ignore is moisture. Water in the air line can cause rust, unstable air pressure, poor tool performance, and even damage to sensitive equipment. That is why I highly recommend using a desiccant air dryer. A desiccant air dryer is designed to remove moisture from compressed air by using drying materials such as activated alumina or molecular sieve. Compared with basic water separators, it can achieve much lower dew points, making it especially useful for applications that require dry and stable air. For workshops, painting systems, pneumatic tools, CNC machines, laser cutting equipment, and industrial production lines, a desiccant air dryer can make a big difference. It helps protect equipment, improve air quality, reduce maintenance costs, and extend the service life of the whole compressed air system. Another advantage is reliability. Many desiccant air dryers are built for continuous operation and can maintain stable drying performance even in demanding environments. For users who care about long-term efficiency and equipment protection, this is a smart investment. When choosing a desiccant air dryer, I suggest paying attention to air flow capacity, working pressure, dew point performance, regeneration method, and maintenance requirements. A good model should match your compressor system and actual air consumption. Overall, if moisture is causing problems in your compressed air system, a desiccant air dryer is definitely worth considering. It is practical, efficient, and highly useful for anyone who needs clean, dry, and reliable compressed air.
    • My brand new 2007 Silverado's wax frame was rust from end to end partway through it's SECOND winter here in MA. That stuff is completely useless.    
    • I went another direction after losing a trailer tire, thanks to not being able to access air at ANY of the 5 gas stations and garages I stopped at prior, with a Toyota Tacoma onboard, 50 miles from the Canadian border. They were either out of order, access was blocked, or the hose a few feet too short and I couldn't get any closer without risking damage to someone's property.   https://postimg.cc/gallery/X5QJ55w
    • I took a 12 second video on my iphone but the file is too big to upload. I will have to figure out how to extract the audio or just do another start with an audio recording. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...