Jump to content

B Pillar Tick

sierra1412
 Share

Recommended Posts

patrickhunter614 New Member

patrickhunter614

Posted
Posted

The steps on the exterior of the truck, the things you step on to leverage yourself into the vehicle. Not the door sill plates.

That's what I was afraid of, I don't have any running boards on mine, only the sill plates. What else would cause that noise? Sounds like it's right next to my ear.

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 160
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

sierra1412
sierra1412

I haven't , but my drivers side is so overwhelming , my passenger side might and I just never heard it , my 2015 interior was church quite, this one sounds like two turtles f#cking

sierra1412
sierra1412

update on my truck, finally figured it 100% out, most of the noise was my door and b pillar tapping each other and creating the contact spots like I mentioned, but still had a slight noise, so I notic

gscott7
gscott7

Cause and Solution! FYI, my truck is a 2017 Chevy Colorado.  Nevertheless, the noise I was hearing matches exactly what you all are experiencing.     It appears as though my problem with th

Posted Images

sierra1412 Enthusiast

sierra1412

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Update #2, the noise is back and better than ever! It’s fantastic, I’m about done trying, Ill turn the radio up and hopefully the truck spontaneously combust, went from my best truck ever to my most hated truck 

L86 All Terrain Senior Enthusiast

L86 All Terrain

Posted
Posted

Lol I was going to say, I can't see the running boards causing that. I have a 2007 Duramax at work that does it, and my daily work truck 2014 1500 does it too and it has no running boards, both are extended cabs. I have also had all the trim removed searching with no luck. It sounds like there is a golf ball on a string inside the B pillar that swings back and fourth tapping the inside of the panel on rougher roads, both trucks. Good 'ol Chevy interiors, maybe I will just fill the B pillar with expanding foam :thumbs:

  • Like 1
6TEEN5.3 Enthusiast

6TEEN5.3

Posted
Posted
Lol I was going to say, I can't see the running boards causing that. I have a 2007 Duramax at work that does it, and my daily work truck 2014 1500 does it too and it has no running boards, both are extended cabs. I have also had all the trim removed searching with no luck. It sounds like there is a golf ball on a string inside the B pillar that swings back and fourth tapping the inside of the panel on rougher roads, both trucks. Good 'ol Chevy interiors, maybe I will just fill the B pillar with expanding foam :thumbs:



I had the same idea. Let me know if it works out lol
  • 2 weeks later...
amtrak8 New Member

amtrak8

Posted
Posted

2018 Sierra 3500 here.  Has done it since day 1.  Most annoying noise ever.  I have tried everything as well and can't figure out how to make it stop.  It's too bad, I love the look of the truck...but this noise makes me not want to drive it.  Having something right next to your ear is maddening.  And the dealer has been less than helpful...not just on this issue but all of them. 

  • 4 weeks later...
gscott7 New Member

gscott7

Posted
Posted

I folded a hand towel in half, wedged it over the door seal on the back side of the pillar, and then closed the rear door on it.  Being that the noise is intermittent, I can't be 100% sure, but since then, I've yet to hear the ticking noise.  Obviously not a permanent solution, but...

Jaychevy81 Enthusiast

Jaychevy81

Posted
Posted

I don’t have the B pillar tick but I have a rattle over certain bumps coming from what I can diagnose the OBD port around there. Omg driving me insane. Sounds like metal tapping metal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • 1 month later...
squeak93 Enthusiast

squeak93

Posted
Posted
On 11/28/2017 at 9:16 PM, Jaychevy81 said:

I don’t have the B pillar tick but I have a rattle over certain bumps coming from what I can diagnose the OBD port around there. Omg driving me insane. Sounds like metal tapping metal.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Pull the plastic off under the steering wheel and I bet you find the bolts holding that support in are loose.  I had the same noise in my 15 and three of those four bolts were loose.  

 

 

Jaychevy81 Enthusiast

Jaychevy81

Posted
Posted
Pull the plastic off under the steering wheel and I bet you find the bolts holding that support in are loose.  I had the same noise in my 15 and three of those four bolts were loose.  
 
 

Are you kidding me!!!!!!!!!! I didn’t reply to the post but WTF is up with that 3 of the 4 were lose????? I thought it was just me when I saw that. How what why lol????


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
squeak93 Enthusiast

squeak93

Posted
Posted
39 minutes ago, Jaychevy81 said:


Are you kidding me!!!!!!!!!! I didn’t reply to the post but WTF is up with that 3 of the 4 were lose????? I thought it was just me when I saw that. How what why lol????


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I read it on here on another thread just by chance one day.  I had been driving  myself nuts trying to find the metallic rattle.  I read that thread and thought it was worth a look.  I already had most of my interior apart doing a sub install so I pulled that panel too.  Sure enough mine were loose just as others described.  No more rattles now, at least until the bass kicks in. Lol

Jaychevy81 Enthusiast

Jaychevy81

Posted
Posted
I read it on here on another thread just by chance one day.  I had been driving  myself nuts trying to find the metallic rattle.  I read that thread and thought it was worth a look.  I already had most of my interior apart doing a sub install so I pulled that panel too.  Sure enough mine were loose just as others described.  No more rattles now, at least until the bass kicks in. Lol

Yea same here drove me nuts for days I knew a general area. So I took the panel off and sure enough 3 of the 4 were lose. Now by any chance did your truck go in for a leak from the shark fin? Cause mine didn’t make any noise until it went in for that. Just wondering prob not the case but.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
crankman Enthusiast

crankman

Posted
Posted

Last 3 GM trucks I had you have to slam the rear seat down in the back on the drivers side or I would have a annoying knocking sound the whole trip. It took me a while to find out but If I lift up the back seat I make sure and slam it good or else. Maybe that is your problem. 

squeak93 Enthusiast

squeak93

Posted
Posted
9 minutes ago, Jaychevy81 said:


Yea same here drove me nuts for days I knew a general area. So I took the panel off and sure enough 3 of the 4 were lose. Now by any chance did your truck go in for a leak from the shark fin? Cause mine didn’t make any noise until it went in for that. Just wondering prob not the case but.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just bought mine used this month so I’m not sure. Had 19500 on it so it’s entirely possible.  I find it strange so many have the exact same issues.  Had to be an assembly line issue.  

 

I ran into a similar but much more dangerous issue on my 15 2500 Cummins I traded in on this truck. I was about to install a steering brace on it and was doing some reading for bolt size on the steering pitman arm nut. Lots of guys said theirs was finger tight when it should have had 175-200lbs of torque on it.  I thought no way they were making crap up (it was on the internet aftetall lol). So I go to install and sure enough my pitman arm retaining nut was finger tight and barely on. At this point my truck had 1700 miles on it. I was blown away as many others on that thread said theirs was loose too. 

Jaychevy81 Enthusiast

Jaychevy81

Posted
Posted
I just bought mine used this month so I’m not sure. Had 19500 on it so it’s entirely possible.  I find it strange so many have the exact same issues.  Had to be an assembly line issue.  
 
I ran into a similar but much more dangerous issue on my 15 2500 Cummins I traded in on this truck. I was about to install a steering brace on it and was doing some reading for bolt size on the steering pitman arm nut. Lots of guys said theirs was finger tight when it should have had 175-200lbs of torque on it.  I thought no way they were making crap up (it was on the internet aftetall lol). So I go to install and sure enough my pitman arm retaining nut was finger tight and barely on. At this point my truck had 1700 miles on it. I was blown away as many others on that thread said theirs was loose too. 

Wow that’s scary honestly yea your right I guess it can be an assembly line issue. My first thought was the wonderful dealer techs lol I found the pic I was gonna bring to the dealer the next time I go lol. . cd90965ab3d3abd639edc6c3205f0022.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • newdude
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By newdude · Posted

      No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
    • jaszr2
      Active Grille Delete

      By jaszr2 · Posted

      Hello from Australia Just sharing that there is now a way to delete the active shutters entirely with just a plug in module. Opens up tons of room to light bars etc.
    • jake111
      Gasser Subforum Has Been Quiet - - So, Regenerative Braking and Using L10

      By jake111 · Posted

      I have an observation and a question... 1) I watch the voltage closely because I have had to dial in the cut-in/cut-out voltages of the battery separator to my camper.  The "smart" charging drives me nuts.  Anyway, I noticed that when coasting for a while, and especially if lightly using the brakes (though not necessary), the voltage goes up from mid/high-13 volts to mid/high-14 volts.  Then it drops back down after stopping or going again.  Consistently!   The only explanation I can come up with is REGENERATIVE BRAKING!  Well, maybe that's a little bit of an exaggeration, but it's certainly free extra battery charging.   2) Driving on mountain roads I will use L and vary the max gear.  Things straighten out and I end up in L10.  Sometimes I leave it there for a while.  Is there any difference between L10 and D?   
    • devonthegreat
      anyone interested in a 2002 Chevy Silverado 4x4 parts truck NYC

      By devonthegreat · Posted

      **SOLD** Please end or delete post. thank you
    • PBNB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By PBNB · Posted

      Do you think this width might affect the chalk test with a higher pressure closer to 65psi? I think lowering the pressure makes sense to get the tread to lay flatter

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...