By Micah Morlas
I have a 2004 yukon with a slight oil leak. Not sure where it’s coming from bu found a small hairline crack in oil pan. What’s the best way to remedy this? Weld it, epoxy it, or replace it? Is it even an issue if it’s a small leak or can it catastrophically fail one day?
I have a 03' Yukon XL AWD w JL4, and like others my brake lines are toast. My plan is to replace everything from the combination valve down. To make things easier, I am looking at the NiCopp lines. I like the EZ-Fit kit, which includes lines that are pre-cut (not shaped) and flared with fittings. It's more expensive than bulk tubing, but it seems like it might significantly reduce the time and effort involved. I do have a couple of questions for those of you who have already tackled this job:
Material: Any thoughts on NiCopp vs steel? Since NiCopp is much softer, should I go easy when tightening the fittings? I think the specs call for 18ft/lbs of torque. Does anyone have any experience with the EZ-Fit kit?
Bleeding: I usually vacuum bleed my brakes. Do I need a pressure bleeder to do this right? Are there any tricks to completely bleeding the ABS module, or do I need a scanner to do it properly? Do I need to bleed the master cylinder, since I am starting below the combination valve?
Routing: It seems like the difficult line is the one going from the ABS to the rear. I saw some articles about taking off the left wheel skirt to get a good angle on feeding the rear line. Do you have any other tips re the routing of the lines? I don't want to have to drop the fuel tank or raise the body.
Tools: Other than the pressure bleeder, I guess I need a flare nut wrench (14mm?), is a flex wrench important? It looks like the access areas and angles on some of the fittings are tough. Am I missing anything?
Any other advice? I have attached a photo of the existing lines. I am assuming that I don't have much time. Let me know what you think.
Thanks for all of your help!!!
By Justin Opinion
Actual photo of my brand new 2018 Silverado High Country. It's been at the dealer for about 2 weeks now - still has the temporary tag on it. I asked them to look into the vibration in the steering wheel. Haven't seen it since. I think the dealer is doing what they can and trying to fix it. But they don't seem to be getting any support from Chevrolet/GM. Nothing like replacing that new car euphoria with a good swift kick in the balls. #Chevrolemon
Taken from a 2017 GMC Sierra Denali Ultimate - - 22" GM CK164 Wheels and tires package for sale.
4 wheels, 22x9 aluminum + 4 tires + 4 TPMS sensors installed + 4 tires mounted + 4 center caps TPMS sensors and Lug Nuts INCLUDED OEM wheel part number 19301164 7-spoke silver with black inserts and they retail about $500 each. 285/45R22 Brigestone Dueler A/T RH-S tires have 30K on them but they definitely still have some life left in them - I don't have a tire tread gauge or I could tell you the exact depth. All parts listed here are OEM Factory parts unlike the cheap knock-off replicas you find on the internet. Located in Columbia, Missouri. $1800 OBO EDIT: I would consider shipping them if buyer pays for shipping, up front and payment clears. I did a quote through Greyhound Package Express and it is roughly $400 to ship them to the lower 48 states, give or take depending on your location. If you choose this option, you will have to be patient with me shipping them as I will have to drive 2 hours each way to get to a Greyhound shipping location.
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