Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I purchased my first 4WD truck in February (2020 GMC Sierra 1500 4WD 6.2L 2 speed Transfer Case).  I wasn't really in the market for a 4WD model, but had to choose one to get the options I did want.  So I am unfamiliar with the proper use of 4WD.  Specifically:

 

1) When just driving around town and not towing anything, should I leave the transfer case setting set to 2WD or 'Auto?'

2) The manual recommends not using a automatic carwash without giving a reason.  Is there a real 'danger' in using one leaving aside the need to choose one that can handle the size of the truck (I've read the posts about leaks, but that is a different issue for me)?

3) My research suggests that if I were to have the truck towed or pulled through a carwash by rollers behind the front wheels that I should put both the transmission and transfer case in neutral.  Is that correct?  Anything else I should do (besides turn off the auto windshield wipers setting and keep my foot off the brake)?

I did search this forum (and the Internet) trying to find the the answers to these questions, so if I missed something, please forward a link.

TIA

Posted

The owners manual will have info on when to use 4wd.  Just driving around in good conditions, you want to use 2wd.

If you have an antennae, that can be damaged, same for mirrors, depending on which ones you have (tow mirrors are probably more easily damaged as they stick out further).

Posted

2-speed Autotrac Transfer Case

  • 2WD HI mode
    • Vehicle operates in 2-wheel drive
    • In this mode the transfer case & front driveline hardware are disengaged to improve fuel economy
    • Suitable for routine driving on all road surfaces
  • 4WD Auto mode
    • 4WD Auto enables the transfer-case to provide the performance benefits of a full time active AWD system
    • The 4WD Auto controls automatically adjust torque in response to parameters such as driver inputs, wheel slip control, vehicle dynamic state (understeer/oversteer)
    • Ideal for wet or wintry conditions, but can be used on any road surface. Suitable for light off road usage
  • 4WD HI mode
    • Transfer case engages front driveline and power is transferred to both the front & rear axles
    • In 4WD HI the transfer case clutch maintains higher preemptive torque levels for increased traction vs 4WD Auto
    • Suitable for use on slippery road surfaces or off-road conditions such as deep sand, snow or rough terrain
  • 4WD LO mode
    • In 4WD Low the transfer case clutch maintains a high preemptive coupling torque to maximize traction and improve wheel control when climbing or descending steep grades or obstacles
    • Suitable for off road usage, steep terrain, deep snow or sand
    • Ideal for off road driving to maximize low speed traction and increase control on steep grades
  • Neutral
    • ONLY used for towing vehicle (Dinghy tow & Dolly tow capability)- allows vehicle to roll freely
  • May require additional optional equipment
  • Like 1
Posted
Quote

My research suggests that if I were to have the truck towed or pulled through a carwash by rollers behind the front wheels that I should put both the transmission and transfer case in neutral.  Is that correct?

NO, just put it in neutral for car wash. 

  • Like 1
Posted

Agreed to above:

 

1) Keep it in 2WD for normal day to day driving

2) Drive thru car washes not really a problem, size permitting. Watch antennae and mirrors (I have regular mirrors and oem antennae and don't do anything to them). The brushes can leave scratches on your truck, any truck, any vehicle for that matter.

3) Once on the drive thru track put it in N-neutral. There are usually signs and/or a person reminding you.

Posted
1 hour ago, Duramax3oh said:

Agreed to above:

 

1) Keep it in 2WD for normal day to day driving

2) Drive thru car washes not really a problem, size permitting. Watch antennae and mirrors (I have regular mirrors and oem antennae and don't do anything to them). The brushes can leave scratches on your truck, any truck, any vehicle for that matter.

3) Once on the drive thru track put it in N-neutral. There are usually signs and/or a person reminding you.

Thanks for the response. So I'm taking "N-neutral' to be the transmission.  What should the transfer case be set to?  I plan to only use brush-less carwashes (felt strips). Again, thanks for answering.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted (edited)

Leave the transfer case alone,  put the transmission in neutral.   DO NOT place the transfer in neutral.  My advice, never put the transfer into neutral.   No need for that unless vehicle is being towed UNOCCUPIED as described below. 

 

Neutral

  • ONLY used for towing vehicle (Dinghy tow & Dolly tow capability)- allows vehicle to roll freely

 

Vehicle being dingy towed

dinghy-1.jpg

 

Dolly towing

maxresdefault.jpg

Edited by elcamino
Posted (edited)

From Owners manual

 

WARNING

Shifting the transfer case to N (Neutral) can cause the vehicle to roll even if the transmission is in P (Park). You or someone else could be seriously injured. Be sure to set the parking brake before placing the transfer case in N (Neutral). 

 

N (Neutral) : Use only when the vehicle needs to be towed.

Edited by elcamino
Posted
16 hours ago, MrGadget said:

Thanks for the response. So I'm taking "N-neutral' to be the transmission.  What should the transfer case be set to?  I plan to only use brush-less carwashes (felt strips). Again, thanks for answering.

 

 

Transfer case in 2wd.

Transmission in N.

 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Congratulations Isttype, on your gmc. Really like my 2024 2500hd sle doublecab now with 85,500 miles.  I checked the oil today at 4800 miles since last oil change and barely reading on the stick.  I don't care if GM says it's Acceptable adding a quart every 2000 miles because that is 100% BS, It is not a 1966 Harley Shovelhead! Sounds like it's setting up a future failure like I had with my 1500 6.2l. Other than oil consumption problems, I really like the 6.6l gas and 10 speed is really nice.  Towed a light 4000 pound trailer last week and averaged 14 mpg.  I was pretty impressive that a 7300 pound gas truck did 14mpg towing, Later-
    • Long Term Cold Cycle Limited Testing   Back to the 1990's and XOM's million mile test. Since then there have been others and there will be more. Schaeffer's, AMSOIL to name two. Of these Schaeffer's is the stand alone which I will explain in a bit later.    http://papers.sae.org/600190/:   http://papers.sae.org/850215/:   Up to 75% of  engine wear occurs on cold starts. These two links (above) provide the technical reasons for engine wear. In a nut shell, and by a large margin, cylinder wear is what takes out most motors and even with a pre-oiling system that part of the engine is dry enough on cold starts and cold warm up to pierce Stribeck.   So when you put a motor, or a car, on a dyno for a million miles stopping only for oil changes, (yes fuel is uninterrupted) or break down maintenance, you are depriving the test of the most important part of it's wear cycle. Yes a million is then a pretty easy walk even for a mineral oil under those conditions.    How about cleanliness during the long test cycles? Same thing. Varnishes that stick rings and insulate parts are laid down by repetitive 'heat cycles'. It's the cool down the precipitates the varnishes. These long runs also hinder acidic attack caused by cold start richness and less than optimal cold start ring sealing. They hinder water formation and enhance breathing of the crankcase; the petri dish of acid formation, the first step in sludge formation, amalgamation and precipitation. These motors are also monitored and controlled for water and oil temperatures to within the "normal operating range".      https://www.swri.org/sites/default/files/sequence-iiih-test.pdf Note the test sequence in some boutique oils literature for testing, API IIIH, is not the standard used for the ILSAC G7 testing. Does that mean it is irrelevant? No, not as used. As used as a 'visual guide' it makes it's point. The G7 weighted piston deposit minimum is lower.      Back to Schaeffer's. That was a cyclical test of an engine in fleet service and not a dyno mule and if you saw the video it was not mirror clean but wear was low.    There are oils like BioSyn and other 'Renewable" source oils that taught cleanliness and have proven themselves in fleet testing. Havoline an other example.    The newest ILSAC G-7 test prioritize cleanliness, LSPI mitigation and fuel economy OVER WEAR. In comparison Porsche C30 Specification Verses ILSAC G-7 Specification below:      Some will balk that this graph isn't apples to apples and I will challenge that in that this graph represent the SPECIFICATION and not the any One Oil Performance.   It is absolutely possible to minimize wear, maximize cleanliness and mitigate LSPI etc., It just isn't cheap and currently I see none that are not walking toward profit over performance.     
    • I don't think you will need a split, separate product, etc., the OBD port should be able to deliver everything you need. Since your device would be plugged into it all the time, it wouldn't miss anything.    Hardware in this case will be the easiest part of your project - ELM 327 devices will already deliver all the data you need. Reporting/software is where your advantage/marketability is.
    • I do too. I’ll never be stuck again 😂
    • It has happened to me a few times. I carry a jumpstart-tire inflator with me.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...