2014+ owners having issues with their truck?

[mongoose71]

My nav system has the same problems as the above post.

[ShotgunZ71]

My 2014 has the factory nav, though I wasn't looking to get it as an option when I bought the truck. I've found that, yes, the estimated arrival time is usually way off at first. However, it does reduce to normal times after heading out. Not instantly, but the farther you go, it gets better and better and the time adjusts accordingly.

 

That's been my experiences with the time being way off. Maybe it will help someone who wonders about the estimate time it's giving.

[JToups386]

My 2014 has the factory nav, though I wasn't looking to get it as an option when I bought the truck. I've found that, yes, the estimated arrival time is usually way off at first. However, it does reduce to normal times after heading out. Not instantly, but the farther you go, it gets better and better and the time adjusts accordingly.

 

That's been my experiences with the time being way off. Maybe it will help someone who wonders about the estimate time it's giving.

 

I should have noted that too. Mine adjusts its ETA after beginning the trip, and I've found that it usually pegs my actual arrival time within a minute of when I actually arrive. I believe this is because it has to calculate and apply your actual speed once you are on the road, whereas the initial estimate is based on a pre-determined assumed rate of travel. For example, I used it this week, and I watched it fluctuate up and down by a minute or two based on my varying speeds caused by traffic, however the end result predicted arrival time was literally within 1 minute to when I pulled into my location. I do agree however in the example provided above where it seems to have initially been about 4 hours different in it's calculated ETA is a bit concerning. However, anyone who has ever used MapQuest or the likes also knows they tend to be way too conservative with their ETA predictions. Before the days of common GPS NAV in vehicles when we would print maps from MapQuest for our trips, they were rarely even close to the time it would take to reach said destination. I typically beat them by as much as an hour on trips of 250 miles or more, and that wasn't because I was driving ridiculous speeds either.

[grscott]

Actually, good GPS systems like Garmin, and other itinerary planners such as MapQuest and Google Maps, incorporate into their data bases projected speeds based on speed limits, types of road, and even traffic (if one pays for that sort of real time option). A good Garmin can be had for under $150, likely with free lifetime updates. Including navigation in your MyLink Audio with 8-inch Touch Screen system (for a 2014) increased the price of the MyLink system by $750 (sticker).

As to the projected arrival time getting closer to the actual arrival time as you near your destination, of course it does. The system continually updates. As I get to within 10 miles or so of my destination, even my puny brain can provide a fairly accurate updated ETA. An ETA isn't really important until one has some significant distance to travel, and Chevrolet really dropped the ball on what it is giving its customers (for roughly $1000 if you include an update) with this little gem. How does one explain the ability of Garmin, MapQuest and Google Maps to all have a pretty consistent (and fairly accurate) ETA at the start while the MyLink system is half a driving day (4 hours plus) off on an 1100 mile trip? The only answer is a crappy data base, for which you are offered updates (likely also crappy) at $160 to $200 a pop. Even Garmin only charges around $50 for an update, and for that you get a reasonable ETA to your destination.

Chevrolet's customers deserve better than this. Frankly, it's just unbelievably sophomoric from a corporation with the stature of GM when navigation systems are so ubiquitous.

[sirbOOm]

My dealer shorted my 2 quarts of oil (put in the amount of oil for previous generation) and after driving 3,500 miles with 2 quarts shy I got a warning on my dash saying I was short on oil. I had to put in 3 quarts of oil to get it full again! I've filed a complaint with GM - changing oil is not that hard, how can I trust them to do anything else to my vehicle?! I expect a diagnostic tech to inspect my engine from head to toe - nobody is going to tell me "it's fine, you filled up oil right after the warning, it's fine". I want assurances nothing was damaged. This is why I do oil changes myself usually but the dealer pays for 2 years and it's 8 quarts of goofy expensive oil. Shame on me for not checking the dipstick myself, but you would think the dealer I bought the truck from of all places would know how much oil to put in (and check).

 

I also have driveline clunk. I had this in my 2011 Silverado as well. GM is not going to engineer it out. Ford, Toyota, Nissan, etc., don't have this issue as far as I can tell. My uncle's 2000 Suburban does it. My 2011 did it. Especially bad if you have 4WD. It's ridiculous. Nevertheless, I've found some things help: (1) upgrade the transmission fluid (full flush or at least pan drop) and filter; (2) upgrade rear differential fluid , (3) upgrade the frame to battery ground wire from its current 10 or 8AWG to 4AWG or more. All of this reduced SIGNIFICANTLY the thunking and banging of my 2011 and I plan to do it on my 2014 this or next month. Well, I've already upgraded the ground wire - that alone didn't fix the transmission but did seem to help dimming lights when I use my turn signal (really, Chevrolet?!).

 

My truck has been fine otherwise... minor stuff but nothing I'm having a fit about like the above.

[Ron.s]

My dealer shorted my 2 quarts of oil (put in the amount of oil for previous generation) and after driving 3,500 miles with 2 quarts shy I got a warning on my dash saying I was short on oil. I had to put in 3 quarts of oil to get it full again! I've filed a complaint with GM - changing oil is not that hard, how can I trust them to do anything else to my vehicle?! I expect a diagnostic tech to inspect my engine from head to toe - nobody is going to tell me "it's fine, you filled up oil right after the warning, it's fine". I want assurances nothing was damaged. This is why I do oil changes myself usually but the dealer pays for 2 years and it's 8 quarts of goofy expensive oil. Shame on me for not checking the dipstick myself, but you would think the dealer I bought the truck from of all places would know how much oil to put in (and check).

 

I also have driveline clunk. I had this in my 2011 Silverado as well. GM is not going to engineer it out. Ford, Toyota, Nissan, etc., don't have this issue as far as I can tell. My uncle's 2000 Suburban does it. My 2011 did it. Especially bad if you have 4WD. It's ridiculous. Nevertheless, I've found some things help: (1) upgrade the transmission fluid (full flush or at least pan drop) and filter; (2) upgrade rear differential fluid , (3) upgrade the frame to battery ground wire from its current 10 or 8AWG to 4AWG or more. All of this reduced SIGNIFICANTLY the thunking and banging of my 2011 and I plan to do it on my 2014 this or next month. Well, I've already upgraded the ground wire - that alone didn't fix the transmission but did seem to help dimming lights when I use my turn signal (really, Chevrolet?!).

 

My truck has been fine otherwise... minor stuff but nothing I'm having a fit about like the above.

You might drop by a driveline shop and see if it's the driveline slip yoke sticking. Mine was and this is apparently an issue with many GM trucks. Your dealer will give you the bulletin on gear lash, "normal condition"...ha ha!

[f8l vnm]

This slip yoke thing is not fun in anyway. If im not feeling the jolt , I'm hearing it. Brand new truck , just boggles my mind the dealer thinks its normal.

[hotrodz37]

This slip yoke thing is not fun in anyway. If im not feeling the jolt , I'm hearing it. Brand new truck , just boggles my mind the dealer thinks its normal.

 

I'm having issues with my drive shaft and rear u joints as well, hear the clicking/popping when its shifted in and out of gear in the video below. Also happens taking off from a stop under load. Only have 7500 miles on mine - taking it in to the shop on Monday.

 

https://vimeo.com/117605664

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Enkriss]

Found this site researching problems with my truck...

 

I am having issues with my 2014 Sierra. It's the 5.3L and has 5k miles on it.

 

It is not shifting smooth. Gas mileage is awful getting about 15 highway & 10 around town. The v4/v8 transfer is sometimes a violent transaction. Also have had the truck get stuck in v4 mode. Truck started shaking terribly upon acceleration. I had to shut it off and on again.

 

Well I brought my truck to the dealer 2 weeks ago. They tell me I blew out the cat and it clogged the resonator and I broke something in the rear differential. They keep telling me they can't find parts but when they are able to locate parts it will be about a week to get the parts in. Possibly an ECU issue also...

 

Getting frustrated...

[WendysOrBust]

Well I brought my truck to the dealer 2 weeks ago. They tell me I blew out the cat and it clogged the resonator and I broke something in the rear differential. They keep telling me they can't find parts but when they are able to locate parts it will be about a week to get the parts in. Possibly an ECU issue also...

 

Getting frustrated...

Catalytic converters have a defective warranty of 80,000 miles or 8 years. Regulated by the epa.

 

http://www.epa.gov/obd/pubs/420f09048.pdf

 

For part 2, if you broke something in the rear differential;

 

A) The truck should not be drivable

B) Dealer should of offered a loaner since this is covered under warranty?

 

Do you have any supported pictures or documents from your dealer stating any of the above? If you took truck to the dealer and they diagnosed the problems above they should not of let you drive off the lot.

[Enkriss]

Trucks at the dealer.

 

I was just venting...

 

Catalytic converters have a defective warranty of 80,000 miles or 8 years. Regulated by the epa.

 

http://www.epa.gov/obd/pubs/420f09048.pdf

 

For part 2, if you broke something in the rear differential;

 

A) The truck should not be drivable

B) Dealer should of offered a loaner since this is covered under warranty?

 

Do you have any supported pictures or documents from your dealer stating any of the above? If you took truck to the dealer and they diagnosed the problems above they should not of let you drive off the lot.

[WendysOrBust]

Trucks at the dealer.

 

I was just venting...

 

Just remember to keep documents and proof of all the issues you are having. If it keeps happening you might have to fight for the dealer to lemon it.

[pm26]

This slip yoke thing is not fun in anyway. If im not feeling the jolt , I'm hearing it. Brand new truck , just boggles my mind the dealer thinks its normal.

The dealer does not think it is normal, the dealer merely parrots what GM corporate says.

[Enkriss]

Just remember to keep documents and proof of all the issues you are having. If it keeps happening you might have to fight for the dealer to lemon it.

Just an update...

 

Dealer is still waiting for parts...

 

Approaching the 1 month mark since I dropped it off at the dealer...

[WendysOrBust]

Just an update...

 

Dealer is still waiting for parts...

 

Approaching the 1 month mark since I dropped it off at the dealer...

Man, I think at this point you can argue that payments on your truck need to start getting waved. Or even contact a lawyer which specializes in lemon laws, being a month without your truck is a long time.