Jump to content

Shake or Vibration Issues

Silver space ship
 Share

Recommended Posts

tbarn Senior Enthusiast

tbarn

Posted
Posted

Ok guys I finally found a solution to mine. While using a leaf blower to clean out my garage I thought I would blow under the truck to see if any of the panels were vibrating. To my instant amazement the panels were flopping back and forth or "vibrating". So I cut the most furthest extremes of each side of the plastic skid plate on both the front and bottom sides off (the most flimsy) and took her for a drive. Guys: SMOOTH AS SILK!!! This answers the riddle of why sometimes and not others. Head winds, cross winds, behind other vehicles, etc. would all play a factor in the randomness of this issue. I took it for a 10 mile drive but I've never drove 10 miles before without vibration. I believe I have solved the problem. (At least on mine). So my double cab was probably fine if they would have cut the panels out. Oh well, I now have a 2014 Crew with the All Terrain package and I am just happy I don't have that damn vibration anymore! Hope this helps all of you! Holy sh@t! Where's the Tylenol? :-)

Did you have any noise associated with the vibration?

  • Replies 12.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

csckickass
csckickass

Well folks, I did it. After all the failed attempts at the Chevy dealer I traded it in for a 2015 Ram 1500 Larame. I have to agree with the other folks on here that have done the same thing, it was th

mafd2
mafd2

Apparently you and the other customer reps don't care. If you or GM would care y'all would put more effort in the matter. Just coming on the forum and stating the same repetitive posts and being a 3

DALaws
DALaws

Well I have some good news and bad news about my truck vibrations. Good news is that my truck has a significantly less vibration at speed. The bad news is my truck has significantly less vibration. Fo

Posted Images

Silver space ship Enthusiast

Silver space ship

Posted
  • Author
Posted

So I put my truck on the lift at work today and removed the front skid plate, gas tank skid plate, and wraped a budgie around the evap canister and drove it home with high expedtions. No such luck, felt the same as always and possibly worse because I was concentrating on it. It really comes out while accelerating from around 35 to 45 but it always seems to have a slight vibration after that.

Philosking New Member

Philosking

Posted
Posted

I have to say, as someone that was/is considering a new 2014 Silver, this thread is not instilling a lot of confidence in the purchase. Disliked this brand because of my impression of loose steering, prefer the stiffer Ford steering, until my buddy talked me into testing this years rig, much better. Still looser than Ford but perfectly fine.

 

Now I find this thread and another one, on a different forum, that is double in size. Cut the plastic skid plate seems to be the only solution I have actually seen out of all that I have read. I know some people have different issues or solutions but this one could be a universal solution. Which begs the question as to how this even became an issue, should this not have shown up in the wind tunnel testing? What engineer was sitting behind the wheel doing the observation?

 

Lastly, someone please confirm how they would suggest go about making sure they would minimize the grief endured regarding this or any other of the issues that are repetitively popping up. I was shocked at the service guy who denied a customer service when figuring the dealer had done all they could do to troubleshoot the problem. I would pulled the guys tonsils out and then screamed for a lemon law. With all the crap GM is going through right now the product quality inspection would be a ton better. We bailed your asses out as a country so you could offer us overly inflated products.

 

If I move forward with this purchase the dealership better be prepared to offer a very sweet, I mean sweet, deal on an extended warranty.

Chappy 1901 Enthusiast

Chappy 1901

Posted
Posted (edited)

Silver Spaceship- Sorry to read that didn't fix yours. Mine seems fine now. I would like to go back to my black double cab and take the skid plate off it and see what it feels like. That truck was awful compared to my new crew. Again, both trucks are exactly the same except double to crew and 3:08 to a 3:42 respectively. On my double the dealer replaced wheels, tires, rotors, axles, drive shafts, changed shaft angles and maybe more that I'm forgetting but could not get rid of the vibration which was random to say the least. I know I could always get it to do it with that truck at 70 to 75 with light acceleration or just trying to "maintain" speed. The vibration was significant. You don't have to cut the skid plate off to test. FYI. You can unbolt and test without much work.

 

Again- This fixed the issue on my truck and it's still very much possible there are other things causing the vibrations. Mine have 1300 miles on it. I drove 40 miles today and could not have been happier. I hope I'm not jinxing myself. Lol. I will continue to report if it comes back or if it remains smooth. (I hope the latter). -All the best to you guys!

Edited by Chappy 1901
gdadlow Enthusiast

gdadlow

Posted
Posted

I have to say, as someone that was/is considering a new 2014 Silver, this thread is not instilling a lot of confidence in the purchase. Disliked this brand because of my impression of loose steering, prefer the stiffer Ford steering, until my buddy talked me into testing this years rig, much better. Still looser than Ford but perfectly fine.

 

Now I find this thread and another one, on a different forum, that is double in size. Cut the plastic skid plate seems to be the only solution I have actually seen out of all that I have read. I know some people have different issues or solutions but this one could be a universal solution. Which begs the question as to how this even became an issue, should this not have shown up in the wind tunnel testing? What engineer was sitting behind the wheel doing the observation?

 

Lastly, someone please confirm how they would suggest go about making sure they would minimize the grief endured regarding this or any other of the issues that are repetitively popping up. I was shocked at the service guy who denied a customer service when figuring the dealer had done all they could do to troubleshoot the problem. I would pulled the guys tonsils out and then screamed for a lemon law. With all the crap GM is going through right now the product quality inspection would be a ton better. We bailed your asses out as a country so you could offer us overly inflated products.

 

If I move forward with this purchase the dealership better be prepared to offer a very sweet, I mean sweet, deal on an extended warranty.

I would pass. You could be stuck with a truck you can't drive. The AFM feature is a joke and makes a lot of noise. They have no idea about the vibration. I went through it for three months. In and out of the shop 10 times. Loaners or being stuck at shop. Total not having the truck for about 13 days the first month. I don't care what the extended warranty is. If it vibrates and irritates you it isn't worth it. You can't do lemon law because they will claim that it is within spec and normal. There I said it.

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted

I would pass. You could be stuck with a truck you can't drive. The AFM feature is a joke and makes a lot of noise. They have no idea about the vibration. I went through it for three months. In and out of the shop 10 times. Loaners or being stuck at shop. Total not having the truck for about 13 days the first month. I don't care what the extended warranty is. If it vibrates and irritates you it isn't worth it. You can't do lemon law because they will claim that it is within spec and normal. There I said it.

I will not touch anything with an AFM system with a 10 ft pole.

There, I said it.

Philosking New Member

Philosking

Posted
Posted

Thanks for the reply gdadlow and pm26. The price of the rig I was looking at was about 2K below invoice and it meets all of my check boxes but after reading all of this crap it looks like I will have to shell out more money for a ford. Especially when the poll on how you like your truck includes comments to the effect of "I love it but could do without the vibration." Makes me think someone is not being honest with themselves.

 

Just to play devils advocate for the moment. What is the difference between the AFM and Ecoboost? Don't they do they same thing just in different ways?

snarkee Senior Enthusiast

snarkee

Posted
Posted

Ecoboost has two turbos and is a 6cyl engine. I had an fx4 with one and had lots of problems with moisture in the intercooler. Something the dealer was never able to fix for me

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

KARNUT Senior Enthusiast

KARNUT

Posted
Posted

I have seen and had my share of problems with 1/2 ton fords. They all have them. My GMs had all ways got me home, cant say that with the early plug spitting 4.6 or 5.4. I think I would wait to see how those new bodies work out on the new fords. Ecoboost had problems with power loss.

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted

If you go the Ford route, get a 5.0 liter naturally aspirated V8. Ecoboost is just too complicated and too new to be reliable.

Silverado 6.2 Enthusiast

Silverado 6.2

Posted
Posted (edited)

I have to say, as someone that was/is considering a new 2014 Silver, this thread is not instilling a lot of confidence in the purchase. Disliked this brand because of my impression of loose steering, prefer the stiffer Ford steering, until my buddy talked me into testing this years rig, much better. Still looser than Ford but perfectly fine.

 

Now I find this thread and another one, on a different forum, that is double in size. Cut the plastic skid plate seems to be the only solution I have actually seen out of all that I have read. I know some people have different issues or solutions but this one could be a universal solution. Which begs the question as to how this even became an issue, should this not have shown up in the wind tunnel testing? What engineer was sitting behind the wheel doing the observation?

 

Lastly, someone please confirm how they would suggest go about making sure they would minimize the grief endured regarding this or any other of the issues that are repetitively popping up. I was shocked at the service guy who denied a customer service when figuring the dealer had done all they could do to troubleshoot the problem. I would pulled the guys tonsils out and then screamed for a lemon law. With all the crap GM is going through right now the product quality inspection would be a ton better. We bailed your asses out as a country so you could offer us overly inflated products.

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Silverado 6.2
Silverado 6.2 Enthusiast

Silverado 6.2

Posted
Posted

 

I have to say, as someone that was/is considering a new 2014 Silver, this thread is not instilling a lot of confidence in the purchase. Disliked this brand because of my impression of loose steering, prefer the stiffer Ford steering, until my buddy talked me into testing this years rig, much better. Still looser than Ford but perfectly fine.

 

Now I find this thread and another one, on a different forum, that is double in size. Cut the plastic skid plate seems to be the only solution I have actually seen out of all that I have read. I know some people have different issues or solutions but this one could be a universal solution. Which begs the question as to how this even became an issue, should this not have shown up in the wind tunnel testing? What engineer was sitting behind the wheel doing the observation?

 

Lastly, someone please confirm how they would suggest go about making sure they would minimize the grief endured regarding this or any other of the issues that are repetitively popping up. I was shocked at the service guy who denied a customer service when figuring the dealer had done all they could do to troubleshoot the problem. I would pulled the guys tonsils out and then screamed for a lemon law. With all the crap GM is going through right now the product quality inspection would be a ton better. We bailed your asses out as a country so you could offer us overly inflated products.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Find one you like and drive it for a day to see if there is anything wrong that you have seen on the forms and if there is tell them you want it fixed before you do paperwork

  • Like 1
SLESierra Enthusiast

SLESierra

Posted
Posted

If you go the Ford route, get a 5.0 liter naturally aspirated V8. Ecoboost is just too complicated and too new to be reliable.

add a mustang intake and throttle body and wake up that coyote ;)

TJML New Member

TJML

Posted
Posted

My company has four 2011 silverados all of them over 100k . And all vibrate and shake . One has we have put 4 tires two different times / shocks and struts / u-jointes balanced drive shaft and now a transmission no fix .Dealership keep saying we don't know . I have read some one else on here say the dealer say farm beaming . As a former mechanic that is the biggest pile of sh&t I have ever heard . That is a full box frame and if that even plausible then you have a defect !!!! I'm looking at the spring bushing and a frame mounts are needing to replaced . Not sure that will be the fix. We have other trucks not GM and had 300k that's had brakes, tires, and didn't vibrate !!!!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Chuck FB
      Correct way to service 2024 l8t allison trans?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Thanks for that, yes just because I could I measured what came out just to give me some guidance although I already knew to expect it to take at least 9.5 to just throwing in the whole 10 quarts off the shot and doing a one and done heat cycle to drop out the excess to get to the proper level. I don't recall exactly now what I measured that came out but was less than I put back in, I knew I spilled some on the garage floor but the main part was that I was thrilled in the discovery I did not have to touch my exhaust to flex it down. The gasket manipulating is a pain of course to create that clearance to take the pan out and put back in but its all very doable if one is careful and not forcing the gasket to flex too much. From the quote I got at a transmission shop of 900.00 here in Canada ( never asked at the dealer what they charge ) I saved 700.00 doing it myself after paying for the supplies so that to me paid very good wages !, and I knew what fluid was put in and that I had changed the filter and that the level is correct without any doubts. 
    • bojanglespa
      2016 Sierra 1500 6.2L lifter Failure 🤨

      By bojanglespa · Posted

      I do have one of the AFM diasable box, using it for last 1.5 years.
    • Mellowth
      Tonneau cover and rack combo

      By Mellowth · Posted

      I found a setup that lets me open the cover partway with racks installed, using side-rail-mounted systems for easy access.
    • Chuck FB
      first oil change - 2026 2500HD gas

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Typically its said and I agree so far that the engine oil drain plug oring is not required to be changed out unless you see some damage happening to the oring as apparently the oring lasts well. The dealer I have been getting a few parts from never even stocked the oring but instead stocked the whole drain plug that comes with a new oring which for the dealer is easier because they just throw in a new drain plug if there was any question about damage on it as well and charge the customer accordingly but again only if it is needed.    Also a hint about the drain plug oring to help it last vs a risk of causing damage to it, after its been removed and wiped off or washed off ( that is a whole other topic about some solvents damaging orings because some solvent types do ) to make sure to relube the oring with a bit of new oil so that it won't "grip" on the sealing surface of the pan and needlessly stress out the oring. Its no different than putting some oil on the sealing ring of the engine oil filter. So I just grabbed a new drain plug to have on hand although more recently bought just the oring as well but as its special it costs half the price of the drain plug ... !   Since you mentioned the hate to be empty handed theme, I am not sure what you have in the way of filter removal tools as I like using the exact sized for the filter steel 1" wide band with side to side swivel handle filter removal tool, and it can be used to snug up the filter without risk of damaging a filter as well ( its probably a lisle brand I have ). The drain plug hex size is 15mm and I always like using a 6 point socket if I have a choice and with this truck I've been using just a 3/8 ratchet that has a fairly long handle. Do you have a funnel that will work to pour oil in as that is definitely the short coming bastard part about the design with that fill port on the valve cover on such an angle that no normal funnel will even work. There are adapters and things on the market that will set into or screw into that fill port, I didn't want to deal with US shipping as that is all I was seeing at the time so caved and bought a Lisle brand multi vehicle fit adapter funnel kit and it really works well but there are much less expensive adapters out there that work in conjunction with an off the shelf funnel that would do the job also. Now that I have it, I like how it works and works so slick with the shape of the Amsoil 1 quart containers I have now switched over to. Whatever you do, have a funnel system of some sort as you will be swearing if you dropped the oil and then realize you have nothing to properly pour new oil in without spilling it all over the engine !.     Other comments, quite a bit of oil flows out down the filter when its cracked loose due to the housing above the filter so let it dribble down the filter until it slacks off flow and then remove the filter to create less possible mess. It seems these engines can sit for quite a while and drip and if you have time let it sit there and drip out of the engine as much as it wants. Also a good time to grease the 9 zerks on the front end, that's my typical practice anyway to grease the suspension and steering each time I change the oil. And remember to reset the oil change minder ( not something I am used to doing with older vehicles and equipment ). 
    • Aimatdeer
      Correct way to service 2024 l8t allison trans?

      By Aimatdeer · Posted

      I really did not measure what came out. I carefully followed directions to check level after i did the spill and fill and filter change. I used 10 quarts. 9 was not quite enough. My trans temp was about 175 when I checked it. Truck sitting in my driveway very close to level where I always check oil pretty much every time for consistency. My driveway is just ever so slightly downhill to run water to the street.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...