Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

First thing this morning, I take my 2015 Silverado LT CC in for the fifth time for vibration issues. They plan to go back to 20" wheels because they blame the 22" wheels. You can see my history in my previous posts. One other time I had it in the shop they gave me a truck to drive and it drove just fine. When they blame my complaints on the road conditions I kept telling them that the loaner truck you gave me didn't vibrate on the same roads. This past weekend my son was in town with his 2007 Sierra that I bought new, it now has 145,000 miles on it. I drove it on the same roads and even it with bald tires rides much better and does not vibrate. So the kicker is they gave me a loaner today to drive and it has 100 miles and vibrates really bad. what the heck is going on?? Is Chevy really that bad now? Are they trying to show me that this is the new norm? Wow, if it is they will be out of business soon. Just not acceptable to me that a truck with 145,000 miles is a better riding truck than a brand new $40,000 truck. We will see but I really doubt that the 20" wheels will make any difference. Vibration Frustration continues.

I am currently going through the BBB process and it requires a final attempt to repair. GM has one last chance. So after putting the 20" wheels back on there was some improvement. I took a GM regional rep out and she admitted there was a vibration. For the final fix attempt the GM Engineer recommends replacing the two rear shocks and installing two "special" rear tires that should road force balance at less than one pound. So after this truck has has had 18 different tires and 14 different wheels installed on it they think that 2 "special" tires and 2 new shocks will fix it. WOW. What the heck am I supposed to do when I need to rotate tires? If this doesn't fix it we will go to arbitration. This has been a very painful process. I just wish GM would admit the issue and get it fixed. They have ruined their reputation with me.

Posted

Has anyone looked into the "beam shake" ? my truck drove with practically no vibration when I had a load in it. After googling the service bulletin it seams like this has been going on for a while

Posted

OK peoples I think I have the culprit, at least to my problem. It is the "fake chrome" 20" wheels. 20" Wheels do seem to be a constant with the posts.

 

I had my first set of wheels replaced at 200 miles due to the crap fake chrome pealing of the plastic cladding. I am on my third set in 27000 miles. Right after this set was installed I developed a vibration at 65-70mph. Dealer could not reproduce as was with everthing they tried to solve. Taking it to other dealers always solved the problems they said were non exsistant. As one poster said " the amplitude of the road imperfections masked the vibration. It was only noticable on smoth asphalt highways.

 

As the dealer was takinging the truck into the shop the whole plastic cladding came off the right front wheel. Yesterday the right rear came off somewhere on the highway.

 

The other two are loose. These wheels are an enginerring joke. Aluminum wheels with a "foam" shrink-wraped to it with the plastic fake chrome cladding somehow adhered to that. These wheels can not ever possibly be balanced. My current wheels have about 10 pounds of lead on each wheel. I cant upload a picture cus the file is to big. I never wanted these but I had no choice because of the package I got with the LTZ. Chrome is not chrome anymore except in Mexico where they still use Chromium.

 

I am now again arguing with Government Motors for 18" wheels. My warrenty is up in Febuary and I want assurances this will not happen again. I would like more than 6 months out of a set of wheels. GM Zone office said the truck vibrated because the tires were worn from improper inflation and not being rotated. I laughed and told them these wheels have been replaced so many times they are over rotated!

I was also told after this current set I would not get anymore wheels. Really, under warranty??

 

The 20" just suck anyway as do the Goodyear tires that are almost worn out.

 

I would post pics but the files are to big. Chunks of the foam are missing all over.

 

 

Posted

Update on my truck; 1 new driveshaft, 1 new front tire, 4 new shocks, multiple road force balances and still not fixed. The dealer finally got the engineer out to drive the 5 trucks that they currently have in for different vibration problems and he wants to pull my driveshaft out....again. How can I end up with two bad driveshafts? What are the odds? Why did they replace the shocks???smh.

Posted

I am about 5000 miles into my repair and I am satisfied it is 99% fixed. I still feel the vibration sometimes but wonder how much is picked up by the road being uneven.

 

Also I did install a catback exhaust and that actually makes a small vibration of its own with engine RPM. With the catback system it completely covers up any driveline vibration left.

 

I have almost forgotten I had a vibration now.

 

It really angers me that I have been so loyal to GM and I see all these posts of customers unhappy. Not sure but I don't know if I will take the chance on another GM.

Posted

I am about 5000 miles into my repair and I am satisfied it is 99% fixed. I still feel the vibration sometimes but wonder how much is picked up by the road being uneven.

 

Also I did install a catback exhaust and that actually makes a small vibration of its own with engine RPM. With the catback system it completely covers up any driveline vibration left.

 

I have almost forgotten I had a vibration now.

 

It really angers me that I have been so loyal to GM and I see all these posts of customers unhappy. Not sure but I don't know if I will take the chance on another GM.

So what fixed it?

Posted

Update on my truck; 1 new driveshaft, 1 new front tire, 4 new shocks, multiple road force balances and still not fixed. The dealer finally got the engineer out to drive the 5 trucks that they currently have in for different vibration problems and he wants to pull my driveshaft out....again. How can I end up with two bad driveshafts? What are the odds? Why did they replace the shocks???smh.

Are you surprised?

Posted

So what fixed it?

 

They did several things. New Ring and Pinion, 4 New Tires and rear shocks. I still think there is another contributing issue but not sure what it would be. Thats why I call it 99% fixed.

Posted

I am currently going through the BBB process and it requires a final attempt to repair. GM has one last chance. So after putting the 20" wheels back on there was some improvement. I took a GM regional rep out and she admitted there was a vibration. For the final fix attempt the GM Engineer recommends replacing the two rear shocks and installing two "special" rear tires that should road force balance at less than one pound. So after this truck has has had 18 different tires and 14 different wheels installed on it they think that 2 "special" tires and 2 new shocks will fix it. WOW. What the heck am I supposed to do when I need to rotate tires? If this doesn't fix it we will go to arbitration. This has been a very painful process. I just wish GM would admit the issue and get it fixed. They have ruined their reputation with me.

Im on the same boat as you.....we agreed to 1 final attempt and 2 weeks ago the GM rep came out and said the exhaust system was the culprit lol. They changed out the exhaust system with the new GEN 4 exhaust which didnt change a thing. Ive been waiting 2 weeks for the BBB and/or GM to call me back with an arbitration date. Its been close to 6 months that Ive been fighting this and Im so ready for it to be over!

 

Im hoping to get a buyback but if we can't work out a good buyback deal I may consider taking a new Shakerado and drive right to the Ford or Ram dealer to trade it in!

  • Like 1
Posted

Im on the same boat as you.....we agreed to 1 final attempt and 2 weeks ago the GM rep came out and said the exhaust system was the culprit lol. They changed out the exhaust system with the new GEN 4 exhaust which didnt change a thing. Ive been waiting 2 weeks for the BBB and/or GM to call me back with an arbitration date. Its been close to 6 months that Ive been fighting this and Im so ready for it to be over!

 

Im hoping to get a buyback but if we can't work out a good buyback deal I may consider taking a new Shakerado and drive right to the Ford or Ram dealer to trade it in!

Please let us all know how it ends up!

Posted

Anyone in here from Arkansas having this same issue? My vibration is in my seat and steering wheel and occurs 65-80 mph. It is not constant but rather consistent.

Posted

The new rearend hasn't been put in mine yet. The mechanic working on it has been in the hospital.

 

(Also forgive my mechanical ignorance, what is a ring and pinion?)

 

They had a truck on the lot I would've traded for. That 'offer' was basically a trade as though I had never had any trouble with it. In fact, he made a comment to the fact that they 'weren't holding the trouble the truck had against me'.

 

That did not help my attitude toward this situation. At any rate, I am taking it in this Monday for the rear end swap.

Posted

Drive shaft is attached to the Pinion gear that drives the ring gear that turns the axles.

 

Sent from Motorola Droid Turbo

Posted

Received my truck back from the dealership today. They claimed a 2nd tire was now out of road-force balance at 26lbs this time. With having another tire bad within 15 miles of them saying it was ok previously makes me very suspect on their capability of getting this right.

 

They mentioned they drove this around as they should for 15-20 minutes after road force to warm up the tire and then road-force once more however they decided to stop trying to make this better once they hit the very high end acceptable limit at 15lbs. Vibration is not quite as bad in the steering wheel but the passenger side still shakes quite a bit and has developed a consistent creak / squeaking noise on top of the visible shaking. Ride quality is still a bit rough. When asking about rim run-out measurements and the road-force results they did not give me this information despite saying so in previous phone calls so I am stuck taking their word for it.

 

They said they ran a pico scope test on everything and even took off the rear end to inspect and measure the ring and pinion (.008in backlash no more than .001 variance). They did not provide the pico test results as they mentioned they would before running the tests so again I am just stuck having to take their word for it without being able to confirm again with hard evidence. Not surprised they purposely did not tell me this information as I would likely zone in on parts that are borderline and it would give me further detail and right to force them to continue analyzing what is wrong with my vehicle.

 

At any rate assuming they are being straight regarding the pico test results this puts the focus again on tires. I had asked multiple times if I could purchase an upgraded set of tires (not even asking for a trade in) but I keep getting reluctance and excuses like it will void my warranty or limit their ability to troubleshoot or replace tires as it is not the original tires sold with the vehicle which does not seem like a legitimate excuse to me. (what happens if I catch a nail and have to replace a tire....)

 

I just keep getting the impression or feeling they don't want to deal with it any longer and want me out the door. That's their decision I suppose and they shouldn't fault me on my decision to not want to consider their lot when purchasing my wife's next vehicle soon. Again they didn't sell me the truck but this is going to force me to potentially travel 4.5 hours to see about tire upgrades or give the selling dealer a chance to look at and correct this and get a needed second opinion.

 

Going to give the seller dealership a call tomorrow and see what help they can be. Since I am 85% sure the major culprit is tire and balancing related I am going to push for a tire upgrade and special order something that hasn't been sitting on the lot forever or even something that has been recycled from other vehicles potentially. Then if I notice vibration still I am going to take it to a shop in San Antonio I know of that does true balancing with the tires on the vehicle for optimum results.

 

Too much hassle for a new vehicle :banghead:

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can anyone explain why the oil pressure runs higher after the DFM is shut off?  just installed the Pulsar Lt.
    • Thanks!  I figured as such; GM and other manufacturers have used standard parts and harnesses across trim levels and such for decades.  I pulled the blank accessory cover off of my commuter van (a 2016 or so Chevy 15-passenger) years ago and found the plug for a USB outlet.  It wasn't connected to anything, though (I tried swapping in an outlet from another van).  I was a GM Tech years ago (late-90s) and was pretty familiar with my 2006.  I might be wrong, but I view newer vehicles (pretty much anything made in the past 20 years) as being a lot more plug and play.  Meaning, more unused wires and plugs unless you have the Mack Daddy of vehicles.    
    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...