Jump to content

Shake or Vibration Issues

Silver space ship
 Share

Recommended Posts

yahtzee Enthusiast

yahtzee

Posted
Posted

Well I just got off the phone with my service manager. My truck has been there since Tuesday. They are telling me the drive shaft has to be balanced, which he says will be done by adding two hose clamps. This is trip #5.

 

Obviously I'm going to give them a chance but from reading through if the replies on this thread it's not going to work.

 

Has this worked for anyone?

 

 

No, it's merely one of the steps dealers are taking to attempt to fix things that doesn't work.

  • Replies 12.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

csckickass
csckickass

Well folks, I did it. After all the failed attempts at the Chevy dealer I traded it in for a 2015 Ram 1500 Larame. I have to agree with the other folks on here that have done the same thing, it was th

mafd2
mafd2

Apparently you and the other customer reps don't care. If you or GM would care y'all would put more effort in the matter. Just coming on the forum and stating the same repetitive posts and being a 3

DALaws
DALaws

Well I have some good news and bad news about my truck vibrations. Good news is that my truck has a significantly less vibration at speed. The bad news is my truck has significantly less vibration. Fo

Posted Images

dave07 Enthusiast

dave07

Posted
Posted

Well I just got off the phone with my service manager. My truck has been there since Tuesday. They are telling me the drive shaft has to be balanced, which he says will be done by adding two hose clamps. This is trip #5.

 

Obviously I'm going to give them a chance but from reading through the replies on this thread it's not going to work.

 

Has this worked for anyone?

Balanced by hose clamps? Are they serious? I would be livid. Seems like a bandaid.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

yahtzee Enthusiast

yahtzee

Posted
Posted

Balanced by hose clamps? Are they serious? I would be livid. Seems like a bandaid.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

Yep...guarantee this isn't something the dealer thought up and proposed, either. "Hose clamps" was also mentioned on my Yukon but didn't fix it either. My guess is there is some lengthy notes section in their systems that has steps to try. This is merely one of the steps.

bosro Enthusiast

bosro

Posted
Posted

My fix was easy...

Apparently hunting season was hard on wheel weights...

One wheel missing 3oz

Others were off slightly.

Drives smooth again.

Thank god

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted

Balanced by hose clamps? Are they serious? I would be livid. Seems like a bandaid.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

No, is't a clampaid.

  • Like 2
pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted (edited)

Exactly what I told the engineer today, crew cab short box trucks today are people haulers and they need to start reflecting that. If you need a 3/4 ton buy one.

I would be happy to buy a 3/4 ton GM truck, but they are not immune to these vibration problems either. And other quality related issues.

Edited by pm26
Smithr66 Enthusiast

Smithr66

Posted
Posted

Well I just got off the phone with my service manager. My truck has been there since Tuesday. They are telling me the drive shaft has to be balanced, which he says will be done by adding two hose clamps. This is trip #5.

 

Obviously I'm going to give them a chance but from reading through the replies on this thread it's not going to work.

 

Has this worked for anyone?

They tried this on mine and I told them what they could do with their half ass hose clamp fix. Then they sent my driveshaft out to have weights added on where the clamps were and the truck vibrated again. The clamps worked, but only as a temporary fix. Don't except that as permanent!
Smithr66 Enthusiast

Smithr66

Posted
Posted

 

 

Yep...guarantee this isn't something the dealer thought up and proposed, either. "Hose clamps" was also mentioned on my Yukon but didn't fix it either. My guess is there is some lengthy notes section in their systems that has steps to try. This is merely one of the steps.

Yep! This is what the engineers are telling the mechanics to do!
Nathan79 Enthusiast

Nathan79

Posted
Posted

I would be happy to buy a 3/4 ton GM truck, but they are not immune to these vibration problems either. And other quality related issues.

 

Vibrations in the HD trucks is very rare. What, there is maybe just a couple of examples of vibrations in the HD section of this site? The architecture of the HD's vs the 1500's is completely different. Hard to imagine any relationship at all to having a vib in 1/2 ton vs 3/4 or 1 ton trucks.

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
Posted

 

Vibrations in the HD trucks is very rare. What, there is maybe just a couple of examples of vibrations in the HD section of this site? The architecture of the HD's vs the 1500's is completely different. Hard to imagine any relationship at all to having a vib in 1/2 ton vs 3/4 or 1 ton trucks.

Well that would kill the body mount speculation because they all utilize the same cab mounts. Other than obvious driveline components the only difference is the frame. They've used the same frame on the HD trucks since 2011. I believe it was a poor design flaw in the frame resonating the vibe as well as a mixture of the stiffer cab mounts
Jesse Davidson Enthusiast

Jesse Davidson

Posted
Posted

Everyone please read these articles and email the editors so we can get some attention on our trucks. There is a gentleman named Daryl on the Facebook group that got the ball rolling. It's up to us to get attention on the trucks as well. Again please I'm begging everyone to do this. The SUV already has national attention!!!!!

 

I've even attached each editors email address (couldn't find the one for autoblog still working on it and will update when I get it).

 

Cbs freelance writer email address

[email protected].

 

Also if you're not a member of the Facebook group go join.

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/GMissues/

 

 

 

 

 

 

Contact Stephen Elmer for autoguide

 

http://www.trucktrend.com/news/1512-bad-vibrations-owners-reporting-strange-harmonics-in-gm-fullsize-suvs/#.Vov4DmakiZ8.mailto

 

[email protected]

 

http://www.autoblog.com/2015/12/30/fullsize-gm-suvs-making-owners-sick-report/

 

 

 

 

http://www.usatoday.com/story/money/cars/2015/12/31/gm-vibration-complaints/78119904/

 

[email protected]

I reached out to Stephen Elmer just before Christmas time and sent him a ton of information, including video of my water bottle test

 

Hi Everyone. Back in May, 2015 I purchased a 2015 All Terain Sierra. Loved the truck, hated the ride. Had the shake at low and high speeds. It was not consistent, some days it was there some days it was not. Very disappointed in the ride. Had traded a 2006 Chevy Avalanche which had an awesome ride so going to this issue caused me to regret buying this truck. Was determined to live with it, but was not happy. Ended up back at the dealership buying my wife a new Buick and saw a 2016 Sierra with the 6.2 liter engine. Ended up trading in the 2015 for the 2016 and could not be happier. The shake is gone, and no rumble at low speed like I had with the 2015. Now I look forward to driving again. Not sure what GMC did for the 2016's but for me it solved the issue.

Don't count your chickens my friend.

 

I'm guessing the buffeting problem on suv's may be different than the vibration problem some trucks are experiencing. It's my experience that the annoying what I call harmonic vibration can be experienced on just about any modern vehicle simply by rolling down the drivers window. Being that I'm an old school kind of guy I enjoy driving along with the window down occasionally. So, to avoid harmonic buffeting I've found that dropping the rear passengers side window maybe 4 ~ 6 inches will greatly reduce or even eliminate it. However, on SUV'S the roof is definitely a very long run of sheet metal. So, it's easy to understand that if its not attached properly to the bows there could be hormonic vibration caused by oscillation of the roofs sheet metal when driving at speed.

 

About the truck problem; appears several folks have zeroed in on tires or wheels being out of balance. And, that in some instances Road Force balancing has greatly reduced or even eliminated the problem. I've noticed especially noticed this whenever there's aftermarket products entered into the equation, not always but often. Anyway, my two bits on this is to stay with in-spec wheels and tires. Personally, I use Discount Tire exclusively and run only Michelin tires. I pay a few bucks more but have learned that they're worth the money. Side note; I've never noticed whether DT utilizes Road Force balancing machines or not. My 2015 6.2L Silverado Crew LTZ 4x4 has about 12k miles. When it's up for tires I will pay attention and ask the guys at the DT store where I do business. Calf Rope :)

Very few people have had the tires be the actual cause of the vibration.

 

I bought my 14 a few months ago and added a level and 33s...it shakes at 70ish a bit. I bought it used with a tad more then 30K miles on it.... Drove it 15min with the stocl tires to the suspension shop that did my level/tires.

 

Can i still take it to the dealer and have them look at it?

If you're going to take it to the dealer, you will need to remover the leveling kit. They will instantly blame it on that and per GM not do anything. Is that legal? NO, but they have money so they do it anyway.

 

Well I just got off the phone with my service manager. My truck has been there since Tuesday. They are telling me the drive shaft has to be balanced, which he says will be done by adding two hose clamps. This is trip #5.

 

Obviously I'm going to give them a chance but from reading through the replies on this thread it's not going to work.

 

Has this worked for anyone?

GM is an absolute joke

Bill Heg Enthusiast

Bill Heg

Posted
Posted

I reached out to Stephen Elmer just before Christmas time and sent him a ton of information, including video of my water bottle test

 

 

Don't count your chickens my friend.

 

 

Very few people have had the tires be the actual cause of the vibration.

 

 

If you're going to take it to the dealer, you will need to remover the leveling kit. They will instantly blame it on that and per GM not do anything. Is that legal? NO, but they have money so they do it anyway.

 

 

GM is an absolute joke

Bill Heg Enthusiast

Bill Heg

Posted
Posted

Right don't count my chickens, you are right. Did not realize that for some the vibration creeps in after while. My 2015 vibrated right from the beginning. So anyone out there with a 2016 that still has the vibration issue? When did it start? Do you have the 6.2 liter? It's a heavier truck then the 5.3 right? Does a heavier truck help?

C6Bill Enthusiast

C6Bill

Posted
Posted

Well my 2014 was a 6.2 and it didn't start vibrating until around 1500 miles. It wasn't as bad as some of the others out there but still annoying enough for me to trade out of it.

LongrangeLauber Senior Enthusiast

LongrangeLauber

Posted
Posted

Well my 2014 was a 6.2 and it didn't start vibrating until around 1500 miles. It wasn't as bad as some of the others out there but still annoying enough for me to trade out of it.

Mine didn't start till 15k

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • chris21
      Towing In Loose Gravel

      By chris21 · Posted

      With large equipment or deep mud it is more of a use the higher gear to avoid spinning tires, getting stuck because of spinning tires and doing damage to your machine. The idea is if you run out of torque before you spin tires you can still downshift for more torque. If you are just spinning your tires in the lowest available gear you are stuck and things break.   Automatic transmissions, traction control and electronic transfer cases change the calculation a little as you the driver have less control over each piece. 
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      are there any codes? with lots of rust, perhaps disconnect/clean both sides of the connection/examine cable ends (the wires) for corrosion going into the sheath & replace if necessary/reconnect ALL the power AND ground cables between the battery, engine, frame, cab, fuse box and starter charm.li (website) has a no-start diagnostic procedure you can work through to get it working.
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      Its no wonder you've gravitated to the oil types and brands you have in later years after trying certain brands and one being a specialty oil or at least very hard to come by up here and the other would have been a commonly found oil of the era and the vastly different outcomes as a result to using the vehicles in question the same distance for an OCI . It shows what marketing hype can do without actually having the product to back up the claims and that is no different now with the insane claims that are written on the side of a bottle of oil from some of the off the shelf oils.    What has surprised me and I was already finding this out before I bought my truck with the GDI engine, that this newer fancy technology that seemingly would suggest better fuel economy/emissions with this high pressure spray of fuel is not in reality kind at all to the engine or at least the oils life. Yet they insist on claiming long OCI with this technology just like they did with the port or similar type fuel injection systems when in reality its a step back in oil life to have a GDI system.    I think the mistake your making Grumpy is that your not sending your samples to Blackstone and getting the feel good glowing report that you can run it another 1000 or more miles and then send another sample where they say run it yet another 1000 miles and on and on it goes until your sending in something that looks a lot like road tar and then they may suggest you change your oil within the next 1000 miles 😆
    • Chuck FB
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      I am guessing that engines of that design back then had a better ability to be abused and survive longer than a new design engine with the long timing chain and the overhead cams and phasers etc. But I would never guess that an engine could go that far and not fail spectacularly or at least die a slow death. 
    • Grumpy Bear
      OCI, not when but why?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      In the 80's 90's I'd run Honda's 7,500 miles between changes using Red Line HP 5W20 and do it for hundreds of thousands of miles with issues. Back in the day it was an SAE 20 with the HTHS of a SAE 30 and SN add load. It was also very polar. Oxidation VOA was over 120. Besides those motors were SPFI and lean burn tech. I could have likely run it longer but never did.    We had a Toyota bought new I ran on Pennzoil's latest and greatest synthetic of the day with "Penthane". A made up word for a very low dose of PAO. Tried 7,500 mile OCI's in that Group III/VI chemistry and the rings tapped out at 90K. Rocker box wasn't as bad as the one Punch put up but it wasn't good either. Also a SPFI motor.    I'm around 3,750 across the board on these GDI monsters and the oil it tapped out by then usually on TBN/TAN crossover and color. Red Line HP Euro.    The AMSOIL SS brochures tell you to follow the OEM values for the service class but that it can be run up to 25K if monitored. I can't imagine what motor could go that distance and not tap out. I've never owned one.    Yes, I know. Lot's of people do. I'm just not going to be one of them. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...