Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Nathan79,

 

I'd be happy to suggest this to the dealership. Tune it? Can you be more specific? Thanks.

 

He means get an aftermarket tuner like a Diablo etc and turn off AFM. I did that and it runs so much better.

Posted

So my 2015 2LT crew cab is back in the shop today for the 4th time. So far they have replaced factory SRA tires with Continentals, replaced an out of balance drive shaft, replaced the ring and pinion, and today they stated they were going to adjust the angle of the ring and pinion as suggested by GM engineer. They state the next step would be for the GM Engineer to actually come in and look at/work on it himself......I am very fustrated. They put me in a 2016 model 1LT model 4x4 and it rides terrific.

 

How do I start a buyback process? Who at GM do I need to talk too? Do I have to go through the BBB process?

Posted

I sent the pic and the link to the clamp to my dealership. I hope they take it seriously. My truck is still there. Been there since Thursday, January 28th. The loaner vehicle is a 2016 Tahoe so I can't complain too much. :)

Posted

Put mine in front of axle to get rid of the clunk at low speeds. Ride is a little stiffer but no clunks when going from reverse to forward. Don't notice the low speed shift clunks either.

Posted

I just got off the phone with my local dealer. The service writer is going to try to get permission to take a new truck off the lot with the wobble and add the clamp to see if it rides any different. This is the same dealer that says every single 2014 and 2015 shakes.

Posted

I just got off the phone with my local dealer. The service writer is going to try to get permission to take a new truck off the lot with the wobble and add the clamp to see if it rides any different. This is the same dealer that says every single 2014 and 2015 shakes.

I would like to know the name of that dealer. I would actually buy a vehicle from that dealership. Most other dealers will pretend that they never heard of this problem.

Posted

I would like to know the name of that dealer. I would actually buy a vehicle from that dealership. Most other dealers will pretend that they never heard of this problem.

 

Tri County, La Junta Colorado

Im not very happy with the sales staff. It is a very small dealership and the seem to not have time to help you if you don't want the one of 8 trucks on there lot. I am however very happy with there service writer Chris Berg and the suspension tech. Both of them have been very honest and helpful.

Posted (edited)

 

I know this sounds stupid. I thought it was stupid when I heard it. Took me 3 weeks to finally try it.

http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/superior-13-1401/?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adword&gclid=Cj0KEQiAoby1BRDA-fPXtITt3f0BEiQAPCkqQbNBa23Pb4TyG6I8iIASWFSCGnTLjUUjvL-sHFlb_s8aAt0_8P8HAQ

 

I add those about 8" behind the u-bolts over the overload spring and both leaf springs. I tighten them down very tight thus compressing the over load. The ride is very different. The rear is softer then the front.

 

I have no idea why, I know it sounds stupid. My shake is gone no matter how stupid it seems.

 

I can currently say I'm experiencing the same results.

 

Edit: Now that I have more time. I bought mine Dec 23rd. It's a 2015 Crew Cab LT All Star edition. The vibration has been very slight, and seems to come and go. Slight enough, that when I test drove it, I really thought it was just more road sensitive than the Canyon I had. After driving it more (after purchase), I started to realize it was more than that. I notice it more so when the temps are warmer, and less the colder it is. Happens at both the 40ish to 55ish and at about 75. I put the clamps on Sunday, roughly 8.5" to the u-bolt from the plate on top of the leaf spring, in front of the axle.

 

The rear definitely feels much smoother in all the driving I've done thus far. I don't feel the under the seat wobble that I was feeling. I can still feel something in the front end. Could be tires, could be suspension.... hard to say yet.

 

My guess right now it that the clamping of the spring is changing the drive shaft angle or something of the sort. I won't know for sure till I can get a chance to check it with a digital protractor, both with, and without the clamps.

Edited by polarys425
  • Like 3
Posted

So this is just a theory but the previous gen hd trucks had frame beaming. To determine whether you had the frame beaming issue the GM bulletin stated to put sand bags or some weight between the tailgate and the axel. By putting the spring clamp on the rear of the spring behind the axel, it is essentially doing the same thing. The spring clamps act as a load on the leaf springs. This could explain why it's helping and why some owners have experienced better rides with 100+ lbs of tools in the bed etc. might be onto something here! I would still like to see the case as to if putting them in front of the axel or in the rear from a mechanical standpoint with someone with a little more knowledge than myself. Southern Sierra says his rides better with his clamps in the front. Just curious as to if one would make sense over the other for the best results.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

You make it sound like every chevy out there is a vibrating mess when it has been discussed more than once on this thread and others that in reality only a small percentage of trucks actually have a problem, mine included.

 

You do keep saying that but there are many who will disagree, including me. Everybody I have asked say that they have some sort of vibration and every new style Silverado I have driven has the same issues to some degree. And I can say the same for the SUV's.

  • Like 1
Posted

Man I hope the spring clamp is the solution. I makes sense if torque is throwing drive line angles off, that the extra spring could be keeping things true thus keeping the vibration away.

 

Today I had an opportunity to drive another truck to see if it had any vibrations. Its was 2015 Silverado Z71 CC.. very nice truck. No vibration at all... so they actually do exist :driving: . What surprised me the most is even though it shifted very similar to mine the engine didn't have any issues with it being in the higher gear at low speeds, mine vibrates like a bugger. I also noticed that it wasn't in V4 very much and when it was it didn't shake the truck like mine does. I think mines in V4 more than V8 and my V4 mode is similar to a Jake Brake IMHO.

It was very nice of the guy to let me drive his truck and maybe if this vibration gets sorted, the poor shifting and AFM might not matter anymore..... lets hope.

Posted

So this is just a theory but the previous gen hd trucks had frame beaming. To determine whether you had the frame beaming issue the GM bulletin stated to put sand bags or some weight between the tailgate and the axel. By putting the spring clamp on the rear of the spring behind the axel, it is essentially doing the same thing. The spring clamps act as a load on the leaf springs. This could explain why it's helping and why some owners have experienced better rides with 100+ lbs of tools in the bed etc. might be onto something here! I would still like to see the case as to if putting them in front of the axel or in the rear from a mechanical standpoint with someone with a little more knowledge than myself. Southern Sierra says his rides better with his clamps in the front. Just curious as to if one would make sense over the other for the best results.

 

 

 

I think the reason my truck rides better with the clamps in front is because I carry between 350 and 400lbs of tools all the time, two side rail boxes and one chest box at front of bed. The truck is almost sitting on the over loads and I think the least little bump they were hitting. After reading what frenchsquared said I had to try the clamps behind the blocks and I knew in 50 feet that the ride was worst. I drove around my normal rough spots to try and it was rougher than before any clamps. I changed them back to the front and all was good again. Where I really notice it the most is on some expansion joints in town going about 20 where it jared the hell out of the truck before clamps and now its atleast 50% better. You can hardly feel the rear hit the bumps Its just the front now.

Posted (edited)

 

I think the reason my truck rides better with the clamps in front is because I carry between 350 and 400lbs of tools all the time, two side rail boxes and one chest box at front of bed. The truck is almost sitting on the over loads and I think the least little bump they were hitting. After reading what frenchsquared said I had to try the clamps behind the blocks and I knew in 50 feet that the ride was worst. I drove around my normal rough spots to try and it was rougher than before any clamps. I changed them back to the front and all was good again. Where I really notice it the most is on some expansion joints in town going about 20 where it jared the hell out of the truck before clamps and now its atleast 50% better. You can hardly feel the rear hit the bumps Its just the front now.

 

 

Very interesting... My bed is pretty much empty.

Im tempted to try them in front.

 

I agree it is most noticeable on the expansion joints. With mine in the rear... I pay close attention to when the tires hit the joints. The front hits harder then the back. The back is actually softer then the front. I will move mine to the front when the snow melts and see how it responds.

 

I don't care if it is a little stiffer as long as it doesn't shake.

 

I wonder if the lift kit has an impact on where to put the clamp?

I have a 2" block.

Edited by frenchsquared
Posted

The rear definitely feels much smoother in all the driving I've done thus far. I don't feel the under the seat wobble that I was feeling. I can still feel something in the front end. Could be tires, could be suspension.... hard to say yet.

 

My local deal told me to have you call your dealer with your vin and see if you have the recall on the steering.

There is a known issue with some trucks that have a vibration in the steering wheel. I was told they can actually fix this issue.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • It's possible the two trucks are using different body control modules which is why yours works and the OP's doesn't.   So much in these newer vehicles depends on model/trim configurations, production date. They don't all use the same modules like back in the day.
    • I forgot to answer the question as per what market mine is set to and yes I finally found that area on mine and yes its also set to America.   So here's something I realized as I wasn't looking at that part in the Sierra section until now, your right that what I see here as choice 3 under Sierra which says 07/2023-06/2026 ( 433 MHz 13542523 ) it has no choice 5 for tire pressure selection. Where as it does under the Chev choice. However I kept going down the list within the Sierra and I am really wondering if choice 9 will work for your truck as it has the same model number and hertz sensor as my truck. I would say try that choice first, if that doesn't work then jump over to the Chev section and again choose that same model and hertz choice as for some reason the Chev section gives the choice 5 of tire type/pressure selection for going back a number of years. Could very well be an Autel thing that they just didn't get the updates all done properly under Sierra but anyway first try that selection 9 I suggested under Sierra and then go from there. 
    • Looking for this piece that holds the hose clamp in place. I have the hose clamp just not that other piece. Dealers and wrecking yards in my area will not sell just that piece. They want you to buy the whole air tube $100 +/- to get that $5 part.  that piece isn't molded to the air tube as I looked at my friends truck. It's held on by a screw and nut. I'm trying to put the OEM parts on the truck as the previous owner butchered things up installing an aftermarket CAI. It really looked homemade. 🤣 Thanks
    • Ok I missed that part that yours is a GM. The strange part is that the choice for year ranges and within the year of 2026 is different on the Sierra then on the Chev for some reason as I am looking at my tool at the Sierra choices. Now I am guessing you see as to your sensor part number as it may be different on your truck for some reason and a call to GM should get you the part model number of the sensors you should have as well as which MHz your sensors are. I know mine are the ones as per what I listed but there are other choices in the Autel and got me wondering if by some chance they put different ones in your truck. Having said that, did you try using each of the choices starting from No 1 and going on down the list, not sure if that would mean shutting off the engine each time and resetting the tool and going at it again each time. Also I thought of something else which may sound retarded but if there was some stupid chance that the chev choice would work. The reason I say that is that the Sierra is showing a range up to 06/2026 for the various choices of sensors it could be where as the Chev has one choice that has that 12/2026. By the way it is possible to not run the truck and you may know that as per not pressing the brake but pressing and holding the start button for a few seconds and it lights up the dash ( its called service mode ) but that sucks battery power and if it were me doing it that way I would be throwing on a decent sized battery charger before doing it that way as killing your battery won't make you happy at me at all !.    Like I say, just a thought to try the Chev choices if you have already exhausted the Sierra choices but first it would be nice to know for sure what exact sensor model and hertz your truck uses as I assume only those choices that mention the sensor would work unless a choice that does not mention the sensor model would somehow work. Its frustrating when one is trying to use tools like this without the experience of the tool and the vehicle, as I am sure dealer techs themselves struggle with it when starting out or a new model year comes along that is slightly different. 
    • I tried before I updated the scan tool just incase an update messed it up, but it never worked so I updated the scan tool and it still didn't work.   Only difference is I click on Sierra not Chevrolet cause I have a Sierra.   If I click on 2026-2024 I didn't have any option to change placard, when I click on 2023 it does give me the option but when I try to do it,.it says vehicle not supported!   I have my region or market or whatever it is set to America I think, is that what yours is set to?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...