Jump to content

Shake or Vibration Issues

Silver space ship
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 12.9k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

csckickass
csckickass

Well folks, I did it. After all the failed attempts at the Chevy dealer I traded it in for a 2015 Ram 1500 Larame. I have to agree with the other folks on here that have done the same thing, it was th

mafd2
mafd2

Apparently you and the other customer reps don't care. If you or GM would care y'all would put more effort in the matter. Just coming on the forum and stating the same repetitive posts and being a 3

DALaws
DALaws

Well I have some good news and bad news about my truck vibrations. Good news is that my truck has a significantly less vibration at speed. The bad news is my truck has significantly less vibration. Fo

Posted Images

Nightwalker Enthusiast

Nightwalker

Posted
Posted

been very quiet lately. hows everyone doing?

I'm doing good,lol.No vibrating for me yet but watching this thread closely hope someone figures it out.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Severado Enthusiast

Severado

Posted
Posted

Still vibrating. Had a couple of road trips this week. AFM makes it vibrate for some people. It does for me as well. Riding down some of the most perfectly paved roads in Texas proved that. Putting it in M5 isolated one vibe cause to AFM deactivation. It's been discussed here already. Then my bucking bronco shocks are just bad. Cause two in my case. I'll replace those soon if not today. Then back to the dealer for another game of "We can't find anything......". FFS, I can afford to trade it in right now, but eating the difference would only bring on more regret.

 

@Jesse D, didn't you change the shocks on yours?

Jesse Davidson Enthusiast

Jesse Davidson

Posted
Posted

Still vibrating. Had a couple of road trips this week. AFM makes it vibrate for some people. It does for me as well. Riding down some of the most perfectly paved roads in Texas proved that. Putting it in M5 isolated one vibe cause to AFM deactivation. It's been discussed here already. Then my bucking bronco shocks are just bad. Cause two in my case. I'll replace those soon if not today. Then back to the dealer for another game of "We can't find anything......". FFS, I can afford to trade it in right now, but eating the difference would only bring on more regret.

 

@Jesse D, didn't you change the shocks on yours?

I did not, but Bill had to have his replaced because they were bad after like 2000 miles if i remember right. Totally understand the feeling about the loss on trade thats why I've fought with GM for so long. How many attempts are you up to now?

Colossus Senior Enthusiast

Colossus

Posted
Posted

Man, if its vibrating on paved roads, it would be a brain buster on concrete.

  • Like 1
Severado Enthusiast

Severado

Posted
Posted

I did not, but Bill had to have his replaced because they were bad after like 2000 miles if i remember right. Totally understand the feeling about the loss on trade thats why I've fought with GM for so long. How many attempts are you up to now?

 

I'm at 5 or 6.

Severado Enthusiast

Severado

Posted
Posted

Man, if its vibrating on paved roads, it would be a brain buster on concrete.

 

The stock shocks are shot. Say that 10x fast. The vibration is terrible on concrete. I'm getting a Pro Runner SS set installed next weekend to level it out. They're selling trucks just like mine at Carmax for exactly what I paid. So I have to make this truck work for now. The only good thing is my bumper to bumper still has 20K and over 2 years left on it. Maybe they'll get tired of seeing me 2 - 3x a month and offer a fair buyback. And maybe I'll win the lottery as well. Odds are about the same.

Chad2815 Enthusiast

Chad2815

Posted
Posted

Been following this thread closely for a long time but never commented. Mine is horrible, was a bad vibration but after a new driveshaft, gears, carrier assembly and rotors its at the unbearable stage. The tier 2 technician is supposed to be looking at it on Thursday (apparently flown in from somewhere else in the region). Anyone have experience with this? At this point I am almost certain he wont be able to fix it either. Dont know if a buyback is in the cards since mine is 18 months old with 29,000 miles?

DALaws Enthusiast

DALaws

Posted
Posted

been very quiet lately. hows everyone doing?

Doing great too w/ my new Tundra. I love it. Took a beating on the trade in, but no regrets, just resentment with GM. Been a GM guy for over 25 years. I even supported the bail-out! I am done with them now.

Tundra is every bit as stiff as the old vibrator, but no shake. Kinda like a truck should be.

Doug Surprenant New Member

Doug Surprenant

Posted
Posted

Ok.... so.. I just bought a 2016 silverado Z71 double cab with the 18" wheels that came with bridgestone dueler tires.

 

Guess what... I thought I was going crazy feeling this vibration at 40ish mph sometimes lower... and often on highways. Wtf I bought a new truck for a reason! If I wanted to feel a vibration I would have kept my 2012 jeep wrangler with 33" BFG KO2 tires.

 

I'm at 721 miles and I am cringing at the fact that I need to bring my "NEW" truck to the dealer. Now that I know this is a common issue I'm not happy GM/Chevrolet.

 

Hope there is a quick fix.

tootall87 Enthusiast

tootall87

Posted
Posted

After my 7th visit in June where I was told that the truck is in spec and nothing else they can do I got the BBB involved and filed a claim against GM. 24 hours later the regional rep was calling me saying they wanted to look at my truck again. So back in it goes.

 

8th visit (18 days). Has been in the shop cumulatively 56 days since new (6/15). They replaced two more tires (7 total) on the rear as well as the rear shocks (leaking), alignment RFB and PICO.

 

Direct quote from paperwork,

"On test drive felt no abnormal vibration 50-70 mph, after tire warm up felt vibration above 75, ran PICO found readings within NORMAL SPECS. RFB all tires. FT tires 5#s and 8#s, no change since last visit. Rear tires change and were at 25#s and 15#s, replaced tires per GM engineer."

 

The vibration is still there but a little more subtle than it was when I dropped it off. I'll give it a week or so of driving before I start making more calls.

  • Like 1
Jesse Davidson Enthusiast

Jesse Davidson

Posted
Posted

Fine, I'm driving a Ram again lol.

 

:cheers:

 

I'm at 5 or 6.

are you able to file lemon law?

 

Been following this thread closely for a long time but never commented. Mine is horrible, was a bad vibration but after a new driveshaft, gears, carrier assembly and rotors its at the unbearable stage. The tier 2 technician is supposed to be looking at it on Thursday (apparently flown in from somewhere else in the region). Anyone have experience with this? At this point I am almost certain he wont be able to fix it either. Dont know if a buyback is in the cards since mine is 18 months old with 29,000 miles?

depending upon where you live, you might still have time to file. Massachusetts is 3+ repair attempts for the same issue within a year and you have 18 months to file

 

 

The stock shocks are shot. Say that 10x fast. The vibration is terrible on concrete. I'm getting a Pro Runner SS set installed next weekend to level it out. They're selling trucks just like mine at Carmax for exactly what I paid. So I have to make this truck work for now. The only good thing is my bumper to bumper still has 20K and over 2 years left on it. Maybe they'll get tired of seeing me 2 - 3x a month and offer a fair buyback. And maybe I'll win the lottery as well. Odds are about the same.

lmao. be careful with aftermarket parts though. GM will use ANYTHING they can to blame the vibration on

 

Doing great too w/ my new Tundra. I love it. Took a beating on the trade in, but no regrets, just resentment with GM. Been a GM guy for over 25 years. I even supported the bail-out! I am done with them now.

Tundra is every bit as stiff as the old vibrator, but no shake. Kinda like a truck should be.

:cheers:

 

Ok.... so.. I just bought a 2016 silverado Z71 double cab with the 18" wheels that came with bridgestone dueler tires.

 

Guess what... I thought I was going crazy feeling this vibration at 40ish mph sometimes lower... and often on highways. Wtf I bought a new truck for a reason! If I wanted to feel a vibration I would have kept my 2012 jeep wrangler with 33" BFG KO2 tires.

 

I'm at 721 miles and I am cringing at the fact that I need to bring my "NEW" truck to the dealer. Now that I know this is a common issue I'm not happy GM/Chevrolet.

 

Hope there is a quick fix.

Nope, no quick fix... welcome to the club. we have support meetings on Wednesday Nights :banghead::smash:

Doing very well now that mine has been repurchased.

:cheers:

 

After my 7th visit in June where I was told that the truck is in spec and nothing else they can do I got the BBB involved and filed a claim against GM. 24 hours later the regional rep was calling me saying they wanted to look at my truck again. So back in it goes.

 

8th visit (18 days). Has been in the shop cumulatively 56 days since new (6/15). They replaced two more tires (7 total) on the rear as well as the rear shocks (leaking), alignment RFB and PICO.

 

Direct quote from paperwork,

"On test drive felt no abnormal vibration 50-70 mph, after tire warm up felt vibration above 75, ran PICO found readings within NORMAL SPECS. RFB all tires. FT tires 5#s and 8#s, no change since last visit. Rear tires change and were at 25#s and 15#s, replaced tires per GM engineer."

 

The vibration is still there but a little more subtle than it was when I dropped it off. I'll give it a week or so of driving before I start making more calls.

Sounds about right

mgoodling44 Enthusiast

mgoodling44

Posted
Posted

So, after having enough of the vibration, I took my 2014 GMC to the dealership to have it checked out. I explained to them that the vibration is basically between 45 -55 mph and then again at 68-74 mph. It is most noticeable when I'm coasting in gear. They test drove it, and here's where it all began.....

 

Tech came to me and stated that he agreed and did notice the vibration, and that he was 100% sure that it was 'tire related'. Hmmm.......

 

So I asked him if he also shifted neutral, as I asked him to (during my personal testing, this reduced the vibration significantly), and he said yes. He also agreed that when he did it, he also observed a "lesser vibration". Now to the obvious.....

 

Next, I asked him what the logic was that tire vibration was reduced when shifting into neutral? They seem unrelated to me.....yes?

After 2-3 minutes of BS, he finally agreed to have a "2nd opinion". To my surprise (not), the 2nd tech agreed with the first one's assessment. Who would've thought.....

 

So, now I'm bent over the barrel. No lube, no reach around....nothing....

 

I'm purchasing the Michelin LTX A/T2's, even though I still have 15 miles left on the GoodYear garbage. Had I not wanted to change tires anyway, I would've put up a better fight.

 

So, more to come, but I'll be a monkey's uncle if the tire change solves my vibration issues. I just wanted to share, as I've been following this closely for the past 6 months or so.

 

 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • Grumpy Bear
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      It also depends on what criteria someone is using for “best” when talking filters.  Are we going off best efficiency?   Best quality/QC?  Etc. because the two may not mutually exclusive.  

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...