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Posted (edited)

Thanks great post! Decent length, quality too! Yes, put the indicator straight up and down! It's out we can see that visually. The axles themselves are suspect the Out of Round flange in my opinion is meaningless!

 

Semi-Float all 1500's right? The lug spacing C/L off axle shaft has to be 100% the material spinning out of round is meaningless on flange. The shafts themselves are probably sub/par......you could turn down the flange if you want only to Vibe anyway probably because the Gearing is so Large now and flexing the sub/par material of the shafts and being semi-float it's creating the Vibes. The 2500's all full float and obviously more controlled.......

 

I would spend the money of Yukon and save your energy/time/money on turning down meaningless material.....

Edited by mookdoc6
Posted (edited)

I do. 40-45mph and 70-77mph are the more noticeable speeds.

 

You're welcome!

 

 

I thought about that. More than likely instead of having them turned down I will just replace them with the yukon axles or aftermarket. I have vibration from 40-45mph and 70-77mph.

 

I couldn't get it to grab straight up and down. I was able to hold it in place but it was pretty much the same result. I can re-do it if need be spinning the axles by hand?? Once I seen ithe pass side wasn't that bad other than the flat spot I wasn't really concerned about getting the indicator straight up.

 

Nice video. Here's a video I took over the weekend after driving on the interstate for about 30 mins. It has now has been over 800 shake free miles since replacing both rear axles with Yukon axles. One week before I replaced the axles, I took the truck to a local shop and did a front alignment and a regular road force balance on the tires. The shake was better, but it was still there. That's when I decided to replace the axles. I did notice that the local shop used less wheel weights than what the dealership used. So I'm not sure if my truck needed less wheel weights + new axles or even if the alignment helped. Whenever the crap Goodyear SRAs wear out, I will try a regular spin balance with the new tires and I will know for sure.

 

 

Edited by MRW412
  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks great post! Decent length, quality too! Yes, put the indicator straight up and down! It's out we can see that visually. The axles themselves are suspect the Out of Round flange in my opinion is meaningless!

 

Semi-Float all 1500's right? The lug spacing C/L off axle shaft has to be 100% the material spinning out of round is meaningless on flange. The shafts themselves are probably sub/par......you could turn down the flange if you want only to Vibe anyway probably because the Gearing is so Large now and flexing the sub/par material of the shafts and being semi-float it's creating the Vibes. The 2500's all full float and obviously more controlled.......

 

I would spend the money of Yukon and save your energy/time/money on turning down meaningless material.....

More than likely I will just replace them. I have another video I took earlier slowing things down, aligning correctly etc. It's awful.

 

 

Nice video. Here's a video I took over the weekend after driving on the interstate for about 30 mins. It has now has been a over 800 shake free miles since replacing both rear axles with Yukon axles. One week before I replaced the axles, I took the truck to a local shop and did a front alignment and a regular road force balance on the tires. The shake was better, but it was still there. That's when I decided to replace the axles. I did notice that the local shop used less wheel weights than what the dealership used. So I'm not sure if my truck needed less wheel weights + new axles or even if the alignment helped. Whenever the crap Goodyear LS2's wear out, I will try a regular spin balance with the new tires and I will know for sure.

 

 

Thanks! Glad to hear yours is fixed as it gives me some hope lol.

Posted

 

Nice video. Here's a video I took over the weekend after driving on the interstate for about 30 mins. It has now has been a over 800 shake free miles since replacing both rear axles with Yukon axles. One week before I replaced the axles, I took the truck to a local shop and did a front alignment and a regular road force balance on the tires. The shake was better, but it was still there. That's when I decided to replace the axles. I did notice that the local shop used less wheel weights than what the dealership used. So I'm not sure if my truck needed less wheel weights + new axles or even if the alignment helped. Whenever the crap Goodyear LS2's wear out, I will try a regular spin balance with the new tires and I will know for sure.

 

 

 

That is just amazing, never thought I would see one of these things ride that smooth. Ballpark, how much did it cost to get this axles and have them installed ?

 

 

 

And congrats, glad to see someone has one that is really fixed.

  • Like 1
Posted

 

That is just amazing, never thought I would see one of these things ride that smooth. Ballpark, how much did it cost to get this axles and have them installed ?

 

 

 

And congrats, glad to see someone has one that is really fixed.

 

Thanks. It was right at $650 for both rear axles, seals, lug nut studs, and fluid. I installed them myself and reused the diff gasket because it's rubber. I'm assuming a 4x4 shop would charge 2-3 hours worth of labor or less.

Posted

 

Thanks. It was right at $650 for both rear axles, seals, lug nut studs, and fluid. I installed them myself and reused the diff gasket because it's rubber. I'm assuming a 4x4 shop would charge 2-3 hours worth of labor or less.

 

So glad we are headed in the right direction. I love my truck minus the shake and have been here since day one. Would gladly drop $700 to make it go away.

 

I was thinking about tackling this myself as well. Where did you order the Yukon's from?

 

Thanks for your post, it gives some (if not most) of us some hope!

Posted

 

So glad we are headed in the right direction. I love my truck minus the shake and have been here since day one. Would gladly drop $700 to make it go away.

 

I was thinking about tackling this myself as well. Where did you order the Yukon's from?

 

Thanks for your post, it gives some (if not most) of us some hope!

 

Here's the shipping confirmation I got.

post-164421-0-54044700-1484182241_thumb.png

post-164421-0-54044700-1484182241_thumb.png

post-164421-0-54044700-1484182241_thumb.png

post-164421-0-54044700-1484182241_thumb.png

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

 

So glad we are headed in the right direction. I love my truck minus the shake and have been here since day one. Would gladly drop $700 to make it go away.

 

I was thinking about tackling this myself as well. Where did you order the Yukon's from?

 

Thanks for your post, it gives some (if not most) of us some hope!

I ordered my Yukon gears, posi and install kit from East Coast Gear Supply, great people to deal with. I'll probably be ordering axles from them soon after hearing this. Edited by Darth_Vader
Posted

Thanks zmnypit for all of the valuable information! I'm a believer that these axles have been poorly manufactured and due to the stiffer frames, we are noticing these imperfections in the steering wheel, seats, cab and center console. I've been looking online at the runout for axel flanges and the lateral runout appears to be the key to vibrations. So far everything I read shows that the runout of roundness of the flange is negligible? RT, did you only mill down the roundness of the flange or did you also check lateral runout? Has anyone else found that information to be true. I noticed that zmnypit did do a few measurements of lateral runout. Does anyone know the actual specs? I've found that anything more that 0.004 is excessive and will cause vibration.

 

Going to be checking my axles in the very near future.

Posted

 

That is just amazing, never thought I would see one of these things ride that smooth. Ballpark, how much did it cost to get this axles and have them installed ?

 

 

 

And congrats, glad to see someone has one that is really fixed.

 

 

 

Thanks. It was right at $650 for both rear axles, seals, lug nut studs, and fluid. I installed them myself and reused the diff gasket because it's rubber. I'm assuming a 4x4 shop would charge 2-3 hours worth of labor or less.

so you're looking at $1,000 to $1,250 or so to have them installed at a shop. Most shops I know charge anywhere from $84-$125/hr for shop labor. plus they will want a markup and applicable tax.

 

sound about right?

Posted

Yup... That sounds about right...

 

However, If I was still in this situation, I would offer the axle change out information to my dealer to see if they would fix under warranty...

Posted

I'd be shocked if a dealer would be willing to do warranty work with aftermarket parts. No way they would get reimbursed by GM.

  • Like 1
Posted

They need to source better parts then. I'm tired of spending time and money trying to fix my truck that only has 22K miles.

 

Sent from my OnePlus 2 using Tapatalk

Posted

Here's part 2. Its all the drivers side as the passenger side isnt bad. I slowed it down and took a couple angles/measurements people PM'd me about. I had to put it all back together until I get new axles then I'll swap them out and make a video if needed. Until then I'll keep enjoying my $40k massage.

 

 

  • Like 4

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