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Posted (edited)

I have followed this thread for over a year now and have had my truck for right at a year. I have battled my own vibration myself for most of the life of the vehicle with a few attempts at balancing the tires as the only real attempt at fixing the issue. Each time balanced it did get marginally better for a short time but not completely fixed.

 

I understand there are probably at least three different issues and vibes felt in this thread but mine was from 70 MPH on up and felt in the steering wheel and seat of the truck.

 

Well after a years worth of varying degrees of disappointment with my truck and even kicking around the idea of just cutting bait and moving on I finally decided to put some new tires on it. I had a set of Michelin LTX AT2's installed in a 275/60R20 size (one size up from stock). That didn't even completely cure the vibe and I was pissed to say the least but it did change the vibe significantly enough that I knew it had to still be tires and a balance issue. So I took it back to NTB and they balanced once again which improved the issue but didn't resolve it.

 

After jacking with NTB twice I decided to do some research for a local shop that offered road force balancing...something NTB doesn't do in my location. Thought about the dealer but honestly tired of jacking with them for various reasons. I found a Tires Plus close by that had great reviews so I gave them a call and explained my situation with my truck and my tire issue. Manager said bring it in...we will take care of it.

 

Made my appointment and stopped in a couple days ago to get it done. Stood by outside the bay while both the tech and manager worked on my tires on the Hunter road force balancing machine. All four tires were off by a good margin and they even broke down one tire and rotated it 180 degrees to get it to balance right. Very cool machine to match really.

 

Like I said that was a couple days ago and I really don't want to jinx myself but I am happy to say my vibration is 99% gone....finally. And the only reason I can't say it's 100% gone is I think this truck...this thread...and my head are so cued in on every sensation going on that it will never feel like it's floating. Haha It really feels like a new truck to me again. Steering wheel and seat smooth all the way past any legal speed limit in the states. Awesome!!! Makes me want to start modding her even more now.

 

Sorry for the long winded post but I hope you guys that have a vibe similar to mine find this useful. My suggestion would be buy some good tires from a good shop that offers road force balancing. I kept my old tires just in case it didn't fix the issue so I could at least put them back on to trade the stupid thing in and have a nice set of tires for my next truck.

Edited by Newm
  • Like 2
Posted

my 2014 silverado has been vibrating since I've owned it,which is a month. Its been back 5 times..still no fix after 4 sets tires and new rear differential. Service dept wasn't too helpful at keeping me informed. I filed lemon law and BBB auto lube complaint. I researched laws here in Florida and followed instructions. The nightmare is coming to an end. BBB has done more in a week than I thought possible. They got me a buy out deal from GM. Plus the dealership is also offering g me a separate deal. Now I'm waiting to see what the lemon law deal will be because service admitted today they can't fix it. If anyone had had their truck back in more than 3 times please file a BBB autoline complaint. I'm just nervous now because I have to get another truck. I wanted to get a different vehicle and still trying to negotiate that issue.

Posted

My 2014 had vibration in gas pedal and steering wheel the vibration in the wheel has gone away at 14000 miles the gas pedal still has some but way better then it was the biggest complaint I have is the shake or vibration I get in my seat and center console.Some times it will come and go sometime it will not stop let off the gas,floor it,switch lanes it won't stop. It seems that when it's not doing it all the time it will start up when going around a turn on the high way go for a lil then settle down start up slowly and get worse then peaks out and goes away and starts all over again it's hard to say but after playing around with it going over the same road 5min later the same speed and it didn't do it I'm begging to think its bad harmonics it changes by gas leave and my truck gets worse with a load in the bed and gets better with weight in the cab I can't even haul my dirtbike with out it shaking my off witch is bs going down the highway when two vibration are insync then fall out of sync that would causes the vibration there are vibration waves that run up and down the frame I think if they could find away to deaden the frame some how it may help but I'm not a engineer I may be all wrong with harmonics but that's why they tell us there is no fix for it Im just trying to get different ideas from others on this issue I have drove 3 2015s 2 of the 3 didn't shake the seat or console but the gas pedal and wheel still have it I would think that would get better as mine did

This is exactly my issues. Mine starts at 74...and then at 77 or 78 it is really noticeable. But the thing that baffles myself and my buddy who is the sales manager is that its not constant, I could go over the same road at the same speed and it would be different almost all the time. They took my wheels/tires off of my truck, put them on a brand new truck...no vibration/shake. Put the wheels/tires from the new truck on my truck...vibration/shake. Put the wheels from the new truck back on the new truck...no vibration/shake. My truck now has 30,000 miles on it, when it was new, it didn't have the vibration, it started when the truck had about 14,000 miles on it. At that time they said it was the tires and I was out of warranty of the tires so there was nothing that could be done. But I have kept pressing the issue and they started looking at it more closely. At 60 mph, its very smooth and drives great, but anything over 70 and it just sucks riding in it. Between this and the mylink issues, the crappy shifting transmission, I have not been real overall impressed with this truck. While the truck is being worked on, they have me a 2012 Silverado LTZ crew cab, with 15,000 miles. That things shifts so much better then mine its quite sad. The throttle response is so much better then mine, I think the software in these new trucks are design with maximum mpg and it compromises the driveabilty of the trucks. Ride wise, its no where close to as nice as mine, besides the shaking. :)

Posted

This is exactly my issues. Mine starts at 74...and then at 77 or 78 it is really noticeable. But the thing that baffles myself and my buddy who is the sales manager is that its not constant, I could go over the same road at the same speed and it would be different almost all the time. They took my wheels/tires off of my truck, put them on a brand new truck...no vibration/shake. Put the wheels/tires from the new truck on my truck...vibration/shake. Put the wheels from the new truck back on the new truck...no vibration/shake. My truck now has 30,000 miles on it, when it was new, it didn't have the vibration, it started when the truck had about 14,000 miles on it. At that time they said it was the tires and I was out of warranty of the tires so there was nothing that could be done. But I have kept pressing the issue and they started looking at it more closely. At 60 mph, its very smooth and drives great, but anything over 70 and it just sucks riding in it. Between this and the mylink issues, the crappy shifting transmission, I have not been real overall impressed with this truck. While the truck is being worked on, they have me a 2012 Silverado LTZ crew cab, with 15,000 miles. That things shifts so much better then mine its quite sad. The throttle response is so much better then mine, I think the software in these new trucks are design with maximum mpg and it compromises the driveabilty of the trucks. Ride wise, its no where close to as nice as mine, besides the shaking. :)

Well, swapping the tires certainly tells a lot. Now, you know that your wheels and tires are NOT the problem. So, no point wasting time and money balancing, new tires, all that crap.

 

Has the dealer taken any vibration readings? That will tell what frequency the vibration is at, which can help point them in the right direction - engine, driveshaft, differential, axles. Since you know it's not the wheels and tires, can continue on the list. If they haven't taken vibration readings, they should.

 

If the vibration comes and goes, then there is some kind of phasing going on. That means there are at least 2 components interacting to cause the vibration and they can/do go in and out of phase. I posted a bit more explanation a while back, but I'd be looking seriously at systems and components that can do that. (An example would be two tires out of balance on the same axle. When the heavy spots line up, the vehicle shakes like crazy because weights are working together. Going around corners, the inside turns slower then the outside, so they go out of phase, and when one is exactly opposite the other, they can cancel out. )

 

Personally, I think a big issue with this new generation platform is the body mounts GM is using. They went to what's called "shear" mounts. In a nutshell, shear type mounts are extremely stiff in one axis, and softer in the perpendicular axis. In this case, very stiff laterally (horizontally) and softer vertically. The idea was to reduce the amount of sideways "jiggle" that body-on-frame vehicles have that unibody vehicles don't. The problem is, they've Increased the vibration transmissibility path in the horizontal direction. And, any vibration generation by the rotating parts in the driveline produce not only vertical vibration, but also horizontal. So, I believe it's the horizontal component of the vibration that is getting into the body via the body mounts.

 

Why did that other truck not vibrate? I suspect yours does have a issue causing the vibration to be generated. Something like driveshaft runout, driveshaft balance, crown and pinion meshing issue, bent axle, wheel hub runout.... The list goes on. But, with the stiff body mounts, it doesn't get hidden anymore. Perhaps the rest of the vehicle just isn't up to the task of a stiffer body mount. Perhaps GM engineers just don't know what it takes to build it smooth enough to be on stiffer mounts. Actually I take that back - obviously GM doesn't know, otherwise there wouldn't be so many people having this problem.

 

At least it isn't an ignition switch defect that is lethal.

  • Like 1
Posted

Brand new member to this site even though i've been reading and following the vibration posts for a couple months now trying to solve MY vibration problem without having to "DEAL" with the service dept. at my local dealership (which is not where i purchased the truck).Purchased my truck in Oct.14 and have noticed the vibe from day 1,and like many of you,though i had a tire out of balance.I guess i fall into the "vibration on smooth highway at 70-75" category.Every morning drive the same route to work,hit cruise control at 73,doesn't vibrate the whole time,but on slight inclines on the same stetches it happens like clockwork,doesn't matter if it's in V4 or V8 mode.And seems like if i hit a little bump it makes it worse for a short distance.Now my ? .doing some research yesterday,I discovered that the red dots on my 18" Bridgestone duelers aren't lined up with the valve stems,All 4 tires the dots are just "anywhere" on the tire in relation to the valvestem. Those red dots indicate the heavy spot on the tire i do believe.I've had NTB balance all 4 tires and they said they were all off a little from the factory.Even though people have said with the "NEW" balancing equipment it "doesn't matter where the spot it" I'm wondering if it really does matter.So the reason i decided post today is that i haven't seen many posts in regards to how the tires are mounted with the red dots inline with the valvestem.Any thoughts,thanks

Posted

Couple things to consider regarding the "dot" mark on a tire.

 

First, I've read that a coloured dot on a tire is no longer a universal indicator of the "heavy" spot, even though it used to be. Different tire manufacturers use a different colour, and it can mean something different/unique to them. So, you would need to find out from that brand what the red dot means.

 

Second, yes, in the old days, supposedly the dot meant the heavy spot (or light spot, not sure which), and then the wheel manufacturer was supposed to put the valve stem at the opposite, so that the installer could simply match the dot to the valve stem and most of the unbalance would be cancelled out. However, apparently nowadays, the car manufacturers use something like a Hunter Road Force balancer when the mount tires for new cars and will index the tires exactly where the most optimal spot is. At least, according to the stuff I've read on line.

 

Third, do some research on "tire uniformity". That's what this is all about. Very interesting, indeed.

 

Fourth, tire slip may be a factor here. GM has a TSB that addresses it, and it would be interesting to see how much slip is happening to vehicles that seems to change behaviour. Here's a suggestion - mark you tires at the valve stem and see if they are slipping. I could see it happening right after mounting, because that snot they use these days to help mount the tires is EXTEMELY slippery. But after awhile, I'm not so sure.

 

Fourth - have you had yours Road Force Balanced on a Hunter machine? Some GM dealers have a GM branded tire balancer that is built by Hunter and is essentially the same as the GSP9700 that Hunter sells under it's own brand. Either way, simply having a shop say they did a "Road Force Balance" doesn't mean jack if they don't do it right. A lot of steps involved and I've watched it being done - to do a full on RFB on 4 wheels and tires takes the better part of 3 or 4 hours! And he is the kicker - even after doing the full-on RFB, if there is a bad tire or wheel, it can't be magically corrected by the machine. All the machine can actually do is mix and match bad wheel with bad tires to cancel out the out-of-round and non-uniformities. But, if there isn't enough cancellation to be had, then the final result is still bad Road Forve Variation. So, always ask for a printout of the final Road Forve Variation readings.

 

For example, say all four wheels are perfect. If there is bad non-uniformity in the tires, there is nothing that can be done to eliminate it, short of either shaving the tire tread, or new tires. Weight balance is totally separate from RFB and is done at the end. So, RFB isn't always the fix. Can only measure what's there in some cases.

 

All that said, if the vibration is not always present, then it's doesn't SEM to make sense that it's in the wheel/tire assembly unless the tires are somehow changing as you drive. I could see the odd tire having an internal defect where a steel or nylon belt is squirming around, changing the tires uniformity characteristics, but almost impossible to believe it's happening on a large scale across the entire GM pickup line, across multiple tire brands. Just doesn't make sense.

  • Like 1
Posted

Brand new member to this site even though i've been reading and following the vibration posts for a couple months now trying to solve MY vibration problem without having to "DEAL" with the service dept. at my local dealership (which is not where i purchased the truck).Purchased my truck in Oct.14 and have noticed the vibe from day 1,and like many of you,though i had a tire out of balance.I guess i fall into the "vibration on smooth highway at 70-75" category.Every morning drive the same route to work,hit cruise control at 73,doesn't vibrate the whole time,but on slight inclines on the same stetches it happens like clockwork,doesn't matter if it's in V4 or V8 mode.And seems like if i hit a little bump it makes it worse for a short distance.Now my ? .doing some research yesterday,I discovered that the red dots on my 18" Bridgestone duelers aren't lined up with the valve stems,All 4 tires the dots are just "anywhere" on the tire in relation to the valvestem. Those red dots indicate the heavy spot on the tire i do believe.I've had NTB balance all 4 tires and they said they were all off a little from the factory.Even though people have said with the "NEW" balancing equipment it "doesn't matter where the spot it" I'm wondering if it really does matter.So the reason i decided post today is that i haven't seen many posts in regards to how the tires are mounted with the red dots inline with the valvestem.Any thoughts,thanks

You describe pretty much exactly how my truck acts on the freeway including how it acts on inclines from day one. I have 20 minutes of freeway each way in my work commute. Its not the route because I notice in others freeway stretches too. Also my 2005 never ever did this on that same commute. I don't think it's tires and this is why. My 2005 had larger AT Toyo tires with about 5000 miles on them. When I traded it in I wanted to keep them so I had the dealer remove the stock Bridgestones off the 2014 and put my Toyos off my 2005 onto it. Could they have possibly not balanced them correctly? I suppose but it would seem like I'd notice the issue at others speeds as well. 30, 50, etc, no vibrations. 80-90+, I've tried that and do not feel it at the higher speeds either. I have not had the dealer check it out yet. I plan on having them do it with my first oil change that should be coming up within the month. I almost think mine has gotten a little worse the past few weeks. But maybe its just gotten into my head who knows.

Posted

Thanks for the quick replies Wrench& mjj ,I guess it shouldn't be the tires because it doesn't do it at 73 all the time,same could be said about a driveshaft out of balance,if it were the driveshaft it would vibe everytime i hit that 70-75 speed,right? I sometimes wonder too if it has to do with the suspension at high speed (hit a little bump and get that same shake feel in the seat/console.) I guess thats why this has been such a mystery for so long,but i refuse to have the dealer just rip and tear at it throwing parts and $ at the problem blindly.I do feel sorry for some of the people on here who have done that with no fix.All i have to do is keep it under 70 and it drives pretty good (like a truck).Keep hoping to see on here that someone discovered what the problem is before my warranty runs out.Only got 4300 mi.s on it but still.

Posted

Personally, I think a big issue with this new generation platform is the body mounts GM is using. They went to what's called "shear" mounts. In a nutshell, shear type mounts are extremely stiff in one axis, and softer in the perpendicular axis. In this case, very stiff laterally (horizontally) and softer vertically. The idea was to reduce the amount of sideways "jiggle" that body-on-frame vehicles have that unibody vehicles don't. The problem is, they've Increased the vibration transmissibility path in the horizontal direction. And, any vibration generation by the rotating parts in the driveline produce not only vertical vibration, but also horizontal. So, I believe it's the horizontal component of the vibration that is getting into the body via the body mounts.

Why did that other truck not vibrate? I suspect yours does have a issue causing the vibration to be generated. Something like driveshaft runout, driveshaft balance, crown and pinion meshing issue, bent axle, wheel hub runout.... The list goes on. But, with the stiff body mounts, it doesn't get hidden anymore. Perhaps the rest of the vehicle just isn't up to the task of a stiffer body mount. Perhaps GM engineers just don't know what it takes to build it smooth enough to be on stiffer mounts. Actually I take that back - obviously GM doesn't know, otherwise there wouldn't be so many people having this problem.

This is what Chevy says about GM's new body mounts:

"Shear-style body mounts enhance comfort, smoothness

New, shear-style body mounts on the 2014 Silverado significantly improve stiffness and contribute to a smoother ride. They also provide a more secure and consistent attachment of the body to the frame, for greater build quality and improved safety performance.

The new body mounts are bolted to the frame and provide dampening in both compression and rebound, meaning the tension generated during compression is released in a controlled manner, similar to a shock absorber. The previous hydraulic body mounts worked in compression only. In addition, the new shear-style mounts are significantly stiffer than the mounts used in the previous truck, helping to reduce vehicle shake."

http://media.gm.com/media/us/en/chevrolet/news.detail.html/content/Pages/news/us/en/2013/May/Silverado-May-5/0505-silverado-body.html

Posted

With AUfan and his coworker this makes 9 owners complaining about a vibration and not one person has posted that anything the dealer has done to try to fix it that works.

 

 

I just found this post and I'm in the same boat. I have a 14' Sierra Crew 4x4 Z71 with the 5.3 and have had the EXACT same problems that all of you have had, and I'm only on page 5 so far. I currently have just of 30k on the clock but have had this issue since about 11k. Had it in to my local dealer 5 times, including some work from outside of the dealer (thinking it was just an alignment or balancing issue), and they still can't get it right. They also told me that they weren't any ETB's from GM about any kind of vibration problem, which I now find hard to believe.

 

On Tuesday I'm heading out of town to the dealer in which I purchased the truck to have them work on it. My next step will be to consult an attorney about this. Like all of you, I paid over 50k for a truck that vibrates all over the place. About the only progress that I've made is that the service rep came to my home on a Saturday and drove the truck, and also felt the exact same thing that I've been complaining about. I highly doubt that they will do anything however.

 

I am completely fed up with this however. My wife Acadia doesn't do this, neither does my 64' Cadillac. I want it fixed.

 

Glad I found this site, and pissed I didn't look for it sooner.

 

Brandon

Posted

Well, swapping the tires certainly tells a lot. Now, you know that your wheels and tires are NOT the problem. So, no point wasting time and money balancing, new tires, all that crap.

 

Has the dealer taken any vibration readings? That will tell what frequency the vibration is at, which can help point them in the right direction - engine, driveshaft, differential, axles. Since you know it's not the wheels and tires, can continue on the list. If they haven't taken vibration readings, they should.

 

If the vibration comes and goes, then there is some kind of phasing going on. That means there are at least 2 components interacting to cause the vibration and they can/do go in and out of phase. I posted a bit more explanation a while back, but I'd be looking seriously at systems and components that can do that. (An example would be two tires out of balance on the same axle. When the heavy spots line up, the vehicle shakes like crazy because weights are working together. Going around corners, the inside turns slower then the outside, so they go out of phase, and when one is exactly opposite the other, they can cancel out. )

 

Personally, I think a big issue with this new generation platform is the body mounts GM is using. They went to what's called "shear" mounts. In a nutshell, shear type mounts are extremely stiff in one axis, and softer in the perpendicular axis. In this case, very stiff laterally (horizontally) and softer vertically. The idea was to reduce the amount of sideways "jiggle" that body-on-frame vehicles have that unibody vehicles don't. The problem is, they've Increased the vibration transmissibility path in the horizontal direction. And, any vibration generation by the rotating parts in the driveline produce not only vertical vibration, but also horizontal. So, I believe it's the horizontal component of the vibration that is getting into the body via the body mounts.

 

Why did that other truck not vibrate? I suspect yours does have a issue causing the vibration to be generated. Something like driveshaft runout, driveshaft balance, crown and pinion meshing issue, bent axle, wheel hub runout.... The list goes on. But, with the stiff body mounts, it doesn't get hidden anymore. Perhaps the rest of the vehicle just isn't up to the task of a stiffer body mount. Perhaps GM engineers just don't know what it takes to build it smooth enough to be on stiffer mounts. Actually I take that back - obviously GM doesn't know, otherwise there wouldn't be so many people having this problem.

 

At least it isn't an ignition switch defect that is lethal.

Wrench - The dealer has not taken vibration reading because they don't have the tool yet. The dealer I bought my truck from is a small dealer and they don't sell tires. My buddy thought that they would get the tool sometime in July or August. Today they are putting a new driveshaft in. Again, I am not sure if they is the issue, but we will see. Just the way the truck acts, I would think if it was the drive shaft it would be consistent. I am starting to believe it has something to do with the body mounts and the overall stiffness of the truck, It seems with I hit a bump it starts the vibration and keeps going and going long after the bump. Most people look forward to driving down a smooth interstate, but not me! I would it much rather it be bumpy at least that way the seats and center console don't shake so bad.

Once the driveshaft is in and I get it back, I will let you know how it goes.

Posted

Smooth road shake and electronic steering assist, I think the GM software is too blame

 

Electric Power Steering System

 

The belt-driven electric power steering system features an integrated electromechanical power steering unit, containing the power steering control module, its sensors, the power steering motor, a belt drive and a ball nut mechanism.

 

The power steering control module is part of the power steering assist motor assembly and is replaceable as a complete unit independent of the steering gear assembly. The torque sensor is integrated with the steering gear pinion and is serviced as part of the steering gear.

 

The power steering control module has a software feature referred to as Smooth Road Shake Compensation that reduces steering wheel vibration caused by an imbalance from the front tire/wheel assemblies. The vibration transmitted to the steering wheel is referred to as Smooth Road Shake and is a phenomenon that occurs only at highway speeds and on smooth roads. The power steering control module employs active controls to sense and reduce the periodic torque component applied to the steering wheel caused by the wheel imbalance force. This software feature will compensate for a specific range of imbalance.

 

In addition to smooth road shake, road crown is compensated for by the steering wheel angle sensor signal, which calculates the intended driving direction. The Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) receives serial data message inputs from the steering wheel angle sensor.

 

The steering wheel angle sensor does not require centering often. However, if the steering wheel angle sensor is not correctly centered it may create a lead/pull condition. If this condition is encountered, always perform the Steering Angle Sensor Centering procedure in SI before performing a wheel alignment

Posted

After reading this thread I can say that my 2014 Sierra does have less body shake. My 2012 Sierra had uncomfortable body shake driving over rough patches of roads. I realized, now, that my 2014 Sierra doesn't have body shake like the 2012. I am guessing the trade off is now that I get this resonance occurring, driving on smooth roads above 70mph. I live in New Jersey and don't often get a chance to drive above 70mph in daily driving. I agree that this resonance is intermittent and doesn't always happen. I've driven the same route some days and no vibration, other days the vibration in the truck gets a bit scary. I'm going to try changing the tire pressures and see what I get, the dealer delivered the truck with tire pressures of 35-38 psi.

Posted

Smooth road shake and electronic steering assist, I think the GM software is too blame

 

Electric Power Steering System

 

The belt-driven electric power steering system features an integrated electromechanical power steering unit, containing the power steering control module, its sensors, the power steering motor, a belt drive and a ball nut mechanism.

 

The power steering control module is part of the power steering assist motor assembly and is replaceable as a complete unit independent of the steering gear assembly. The torque sensor is integrated with the steering gear pinion and is serviced as part of the steering gear.

 

The power steering control module has a software feature referred to as Smooth Road Shake Compensation that reduces steering wheel vibration caused by an imbalance from the front tire/wheel assemblies. The vibration transmitted to the steering wheel is referred to as Smooth Road Shake and is a phenomenon that occurs only at highway speeds and on smooth roads. The power steering control module employs active controls to sense and reduce the periodic torque component applied to the steering wheel caused by the wheel imbalance force. This software feature will compensate for a specific range of imbalance.

 

In addition to smooth road shake, road crown is compensated for by the steering wheel angle sensor signal, which calculates the intended driving direction. The Electronic Brake Control Module (EBCM) receives serial data message inputs from the steering wheel angle sensor.

 

The steering wheel angle sensor does not require centering often. However, if the steering wheel angle sensor is not correctly centered it may create a lead/pull condition. If this condition is encountered, always perform the Steering Angle Sensor Centering procedure in SI before performing a wheel alignment

I know I can't speak for other people, but my shake is not in the steering wheel, its in the center console and seats. When my center console/seats shake/vibrate my steering wheel is very smooth. And the new drive shaft did nothing. So now I am going to start looking for a replacement vehicle. It just not only baffles me, but also the service manager and the sales manager at the dealership. They have ruled the tires out and the drive shaft out. Only thing left is the rear end, but I don't know if I have the time and at this point even care to keep chasing the vibration. Love the truck, but the vibration just kills the joy of driving it.

Posted

I know I can't speak for other people, but my shake is not in the steering wheel, its in the center console and seats. When my center console/seats shake/vibrate my steering wheel is very smooth. And the new drive shaft did nothing. So now I am going to start looking for a replacement vehicle. It just not only baffles me, but also the service manager and the sales manager at the dealership. They have ruled the tires out and the drive shaft out. Only thing left is the rear end, but I don't know if I have the time and at this point even care to keep chasing the vibration. Love the truck, but the vibration just kills the joy of driving it.

 

Question, do you feel the vibe or see the seat and things sitting in the console shaking?

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    • not all plugs will be used.  gm uses more generic harnesses that support most/all options, and if your truck doesn't have a specfiic option, the plug won't be used (commonly will have a dummy insert in the plug , or it'll be taped up, but some may just be left as is).  But it's sldo possible some p.o. has installed the wrong/cheaper parts that aren't correct for your vehicle...
    • First off, I'm not trying to just get easy advice/fixes for the issues I've noticed so far.  I'll be combing through the site via searches and such, and if past experiences are any indication, should find what I need.  For the sake of conversation, though, I figured I'd post the handful of things I've noticed in the 12 hours since buying my 2010 SLE CCSB.     Indicator lights: Airbag and TPMS.  The tire pressures aren't reading for any of the wheels, so I'm pretty certain the sensors were either removed, are damaged, or are otherwise inoperable.  I used to mount and balance tires 25 years ago but am pretty much ignorant when it comes to TPMS.  My 2006 didn't have the sensors and this might be the fourth vehicle I've owned that does.     Radio: Rear speakers aren't working.  I removed the driver's side rear door panel and checked the speaker and wiring.  I also removed the sill and b-pillar covers to check the wiring.  A few minutes of Google Fu showed that this is potentially a head unit issue.    Switches: Power mirrors don't turn left/right.  I ordered replacement driver's door switches that should arrive tomorrow.  The windows and locks work but it was only about $20 for all of them.  The driver's side rear window switch lets the window down but won't put it back up.  I think the passenger rear doesn't work at all.  In the coming days/weeks, I'll break out my multimeter to check all of that.   Unknown wiring harness: There's a box attached to the front driver's side of the engine compartment, right where the second battery shelf is located.  There are three plugs, one of which looks like it fits a standard headlight-style bulb (9007 or similar).  It doesn't look like it's plugged into anything.  I'll do some digging and if I don't see anything elsewhere on the site, post some pictures here.   Unknown plugs on brake booster: There are at least two female plugs on the brake booster that aren't being used.  I think it might be a replacement/aftermarket, so maybe those are used for a different application, as there don't seem to be any unplugged harnesses and no indicator lights are on.   Little squeaks when turning: Sounds almost like a bushing around the bed of the truck.  I'll have to pay close attention as I get more familiar with the truck.   Clunk on acceleration: possibly the infamous drivetrain clunk.  My 2006 had it and I'm just not familiar enough with this truck yet to fully grasp what it is.   Anyway, my apologies for the vague and all over the place post.  This truck is new to me, and it's been four years since I drove my 2006.  With 200k miles, I know I'll need to learn this truck quickly to avoid having any major issues, despite being confident it's got much more life to it.  My 2006 had nearly 320k on it when I parked it (nearly 300k of which I put on the truck), and it was still drivable then, though I suspected the head gasket might have blown.  I'd hoped to have that truck back by now, but it's gone forever, as I detailed in my reintroduction thread.  
    • I always drive in Sport mode. With more driving, I am finding the initial response when accelerating is much quicker now🖕 Lou
    • Is it an optical illusion in the pic or is the truck really squatting that much horribly?
    • My initial introduction was here.  It's hard to believe that I last posted in February 2013, having just deployed to Kyrgyzstan.  Since then, I've retired from the military and the 2006 Sierra SLT Z71 that first brought me to these pages was lost.  I went forward to Afghanistan in March 2013 and did a lot of sitting behind a computer on brigade staff.  Within 18 months of getting back to the States, I was selected for Drill Sergeant duty, after which I moved back to Virginia (my home state and where I served from 2004-2008).  That '06 Sierra did a lot of driving between Louisiana, Georgia, and Virginia, and ended up with nearly 320k miles by 2022.  By then, the registration had been expired for a couple of years, but the pandemic had all but eliminated tickets for such transgressions.  Admittedly too, I usually drove my wife's SUV or son's car the 2-3 times a week I had to report to work.  Teleworking sure was fun while it lasted.   I started my retirement leave four years ago and stored the Sierra at my sister's house.  A big mess was made when her fiancé passed while she was taking care of business out-of-state in late-2024, and his son pretty much mismanaged everything to do with the estate.  Even so, I was assured that my truck was safe... until it wasn't.  I found out that my truck had been scrapped about four months after the son took over everything.  There's nothing I could do; I'm 1000 miles away and it was technically abandoned property since he'd even trespassed my sister from her own house (she had no claim to it as she wasn't married, and the fiancé was the sole owner).     Anyway, today I got my second Sierra.  This is a 2010 SLE 2WB CCSB with a little over 200k miles on it.  It's got the 5.3L I'm familiar with and should handle what I need it for.  Hauling stuff that won't fit in the Transit Connect (yep, I sold out, but that's the wife's vehicle) and towing a few times a year tops.  The price seemed decent, considering how much people sell their trucks for in the Deep South: $4500.  I've seen similar trucks listed for more than double that.  I got it from a coworker who left his tag on until we transfer the title next week (Louisiana requires a notary for transfers), so I've been driving it all day.  The rear speakers don't work, which is one of the things that brought me back to these forums earlier.  I can't say how active I'll be as a poster, but I'll be scouring the archives while I find out every little thing I can about the 2010s and particular nuances/problems with my truck.   It's definitely not a GMC, but I got another Willys Jeep a few months back as well, so I'm almost at the same place I was when I first joined gm-trucks.com.  My old 1960 DJ3A was sold back around 2010 or 2011; my current Jeep is a 1946 CJ2A.  So, I've got a slightly newer GMC and a much older Jeep.  I kind of wish I still had that F-250 I had way back when too.  The Dakota is long gone and was technically my brother's truck, though I had it registered and insured.  The F-250 had to go when my grandmother's house was foreclosed on due to mismanagement around 2012 or so.     Hopefully anyone that made it this far isn't too annoyed.  I tend to be long-winded, but I'll be doing more reading than posting in the coming months.
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