Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

 

If all of the replaced items were not broken or defective and were replaced with the same part to figure out a problem, then yes, the issue will be unchanged. If the part was upgraded in some way, then it makes sense. GM was throwing crap on the wall to see what stuck until it just wore you out or you got lucky enough to get out of the deal. Both in your case

That's really where I drew the line after countless sets of tires that would be road force balanced to 3lbs and then the next day end up being 40lbs. When GM refused to change brands of tires or hard parts like motor mounts and transmission components I lost faith in them. I had time on my side with my states lemon law but didn't need to go BBB route. GM eventually owned up to the problem and bought me out of it. Again had I not had a great service manager this may have played out differently.

 

Just took delivery of my replacement truck and so far I am very impressed. 2017 Toyota Tundra Limited Crewmax. This thing may not be truck of the year but it has a great V8 and tons of room.

 

34404ffbab13f902b0d0659d0e00bd09.jpg

Edited by AllTerrain13
  • Like 2
Posted

while I'd never get one because the front end doesn't look good to me, sounds like you got a good truck otherwise. Good luck with the Yohota.

Posted

I finally fixed my vibration!!!! Thank god!!! Filed lemon law. Demanded I get 10000 to settle. GM agreed to 9500 so I got 7000. GM refused to fix the truck. I was nice every step along the way to the point the service manager even told the rep I was a great pleasure to work with. Unfortunately I went to ford. Always been a Chevy guy. After this I'll never buy another GM. My 2007 Malibu that needs wheel bearings shocks etc drives better than a brand spanking new LTZ with everything on it. I'm sure GM is still trolling here so my recommendation is to go F yourself. I will continue to pass this on to everyone I know. Shit 4 guys are dealing with the same issue.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

2015 Chevy Silverado shaking for about a second at a time (tachometer flutters up and down a little when this happens). Everyone says driveshaft but I think it has something to do with the drive train. Torque converter?

Edited by mbingen
  • Like 1
Posted

I didn't start feeling a vibration again until after market wheels were put on, it's not the tires since I ran them on my stock wheels for 6 months without issues.

I tightened my u bolts and that helped the first time before I changed out my tires, now that I changed the wheels the vibration is back.

Im going to take my wheels off this weekend and see if I'm just not seated properly against the studs.

Anyone else have issues with aftermarket wheels?

 

Hopefully GM figures out all the other problems everyone is having with vibration issues.

 

 

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Posted

I recently bought a 2015 Chevy Silverado with the 6.2 engine and 8-speed transmission and 15000 miles on it and notice a shaking in the truck but it is not as most people describe. It ONLY shakes when the RPMs are very low and it is cruising. The tachometer jumps up and down (within 100-200 RPMs) when the shaking occurs.

 

Most complaints that I have read are a constant vibration where mine is not. It rides very smooth when the truck is coasting (with my foot completely off the gas), under load (heavy on the gas), or the RPMs are 1800 or higher. This leads me to believe that it is not an out of balance issue with anything related to the tires, drive shaft, or axles like other people have suggested. Maybe Torque converter? Transmission? Engine?

 

To eliminate the shaking I have used the manual gears and just bump it down one gear so the RPMs are between 1700 and 2100 when cruising. Gas mileage is barely effected so that is my solution as of now.

 

Any one else having the same issue I am? Any help or advice would be great.

  • Like 2
Posted

I recently bought a 2015 Chevy Silverado with the 6.2 engine and 8-speed transmission and 15000 miles on it and notice a shaking in the truck but it is not as most people describe. It ONLY shakes when the RPMs are very low and it is cruising. The tachometer jumps up and down (within 100-200 RPMs) when the shaking occurs.

 

Most complaints that I have read are a constant vibration where mine is not. It rides very smooth when the truck is coasting (with my foot completely off the gas), under load (heavy on the gas), or the RPMs are 1800 or higher. This leads me to believe that it is not an out of balance issue with anything related to the tires, drive shaft, or axles like other people have suggested. Maybe Torque converter? Transmission? Engine?

 

To eliminate the shaking I have used the manual gears and just bump it down one gear so the RPMs are between 1700 and 2100 when cruising. Gas mileage is barely effected so that is my solution as of now.

 

Any one else having the same issue I am? Any help or advice would be great.

There was an issue with some torque converter failures. The cause I believe was hairline fractures, that may have been caused by bad machining, or weakened welds?

 

There was a TSB on the issue. Not sure of the TSB number, or year and range though.

Also there were some solenoid known failures as well.

 

Good luck

Posted

There was an issue with some torque converter failures. The cause I believe was hairline fractures, that may have been caused by bad machining, or weakened welds?

 

There was a TSB on the issue. Not sure of the TSB number, or year and range though.

Also there were some solenoid known failures as well.

 

Good luck

Are things like this covered under the factory warranty? I have a bumper to bumper warranty until 46k miles and a power train warranty up to 100k miles

Posted

Are things like this covered under the factory warranty? I have a bumper to bumper warranty until 46k miles and a power train warranty up to 100k miles

Yes. Take it in and keep your paperwork. Shouldn't cost you a dime.

  • Like 1
Posted

Are things like this covered under the factory warranty? I have a bumper to bumper warranty until 46k miles and a power train warranty up to 100k miles

 

You may find out that your "bumper to bumper" warranty is in reality "bumper & bumper" warranty that covers nothing between the bumpers.

  • Like 4
Posted

Service manager is blowing smoke

not many all terrain tires under 40 pounds. Maybe the hankook

Mostly 41, 45 pounds.

Posted

Well after a year with this vibration. I have almost all the dealers in Edmonton, Alberta refusing to touch my truck. GM Canada representative from Ontario told me that there is nothing wrong with the truck and she feels the issue is resolved. I tried Transport Canada and they said as long as no one has been injured or died from it there is nothing they can do. He did send me to a place called CAMVAP. They are an independent arbitrator for Canada. I told them my story and have opened a claim with them. I have decided to repair the truck outside of GM. Once the truck is fixed Camvap will take over and file a legal claim against GM to reimburse my costs. If it can't be fixed or can't figure it out Camvap will then begin a claim to force GM to buy my truck back. Once Camvap makes a decision, GM must adhere to it.

 

I recommend all Canadians with this vibration issue to contact Camvap and lets start to force GM to fix this or buy all these trucks back. Mine goes in tomorrow for the repairs from an independent shop. I will update what happens and they find.

  • Like 2
Posted

Well after a year with this vibration. I have almost all the dealers in Edmonton, Alberta refusing to touch my truck. GM Canada representative from Ontario told me that there is nothing wrong with the truck and she feels the issue is resolved. I tried Transport Canada and they said as long as no one has been injured or died from it there is nothing they can do. He did send me to a place called CAMVAP. They are an independent arbitrator for Canada. I told them my story and have opened a claim with them. I have decided to repair the truck outside of GM. Once the truck is fixed Camvap will take over and file a legal claim against GM to reimburse my costs. If it can't be fixed or can't figure it out Camvap will then begin a claim to force GM to buy my truck back. Once Camvap makes a decision, GM must adhere to it.

 

I recommend all Canadians with this vibration issue to contact Camvap and lets start to force GM to fix this or buy all these trucks back. Mine goes in tomorrow for the repairs from an independent shop. I will update what happens and they find.

In your CAMVAP application ask that an "independent" licensed mechanic review your case, also have the CAMVAP Arbitrator drive along with you to experience this your truck's vibrations.

 

Video and a time line journal of events is key here to win your case!

 

GM what the f*** fix your truck's from shaking.

 

Best of luck!

Posted

Ok people I will tell you how I fixed my Silverado to make it good enough to drive , it is not perfect but way better than the shaking dog I was driving !!! One day the steering wheel was shaking to no end , I pulled off the road to a dead stop and switched the 4 wheel drive selector to automatic , I then took foot off the brake and the truck went forward , I switched the 4 wheel drive selector back to 2 wheel drive and started speeding up 67 good , 68 good , 69 good ,70 good , 71 good , 72 good , 73 and smooth as glass !! Now people this hunk of junk was shaking like a wet dog on I 77 before I pulled off the road ! I also upped the air pressure in my tires about a week later to 40 PSI , truck rides rough but have not had the big shaking of late

Posted

In your CAMVAP application ask that an "independent" licensed mechanic review your case, also have the CAMVAP Arbitrator drive along with you to experience this your truck's vibrations.

 

Video and a time line journal of events is key here to win your case!

 

GM what the f*** fix your truck's from shaking.

 

Best of luck!

Thank you for the extra advise. I am still at the beginning stages and have a couple of weeks to complete my claim. My wife keeps telling me not to pay anyone to try to fix it since I only have 15,000kms on the truck and it's only 1 yr old. All I know is that I will never buy a GM product again after this and the way GM treats it's customers.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hello hello looking forward to expanding my knowledge of the 2026 2500 HD that I just bought.   Truck has 3500 miles on it four-wheel-drive crew cab and I’m about to put a 6 1/2 inch BDS lift on it 18 x 10 -25 offset with 37’s   Already have the wheels and tires just waiting on the lift install in about three weeks   Question what surprises am I not gonna be happy with?  I’m not new to lifted trucks so I know that acceleration towing gas mileage all that is affected..   Question is those of you that have this truck this powertrain with a 10 speed Allison and have done the mods that I’m doing,,, how bad is it? Is that Allison constantly gonna be hunting for the right gear to go into? And what about towing, acceleration, fuel consumption as mentioned?    Lastly how come I can’t find any ring pinion gear set up for these axles and when could I expect to see them?   I apologize if there’s any typos I’m doing speech to text on my iPhone.    
    • I've got a 2013 2500 6.0L Flexfuel. Drove the truck earlier today with no issues. Went to run an errand tonight and noticed key fob wouldn't work. Figured battery was dead, so replaced fob batter. Still wasn't working. Grabbed my other set of keys with the other fob and that one wasn't working either. So I manually unlock truck and insert key. Interior lights come on, dashboard lights up, turn key and truck starts. Turn truck off, like a moron, and try starting again. This time no crank, no click, no nothing. Lights still come on and dash lights up, but now I'm getting a service 4wheel drive, service tire monitor, etc. Check voltage on battery and Im showing 12.2v. Throw my battery charger on it and give it 15 mins and try starting again. But still no crank no start. Decide maybe its a bad battery, run to autozone grab a new one and put it in. Same issue. Disconnect battery and let it sit for 15 mins. Try again and still nothing. I had managed to roll the windows down earlier as its a humid night, but now I can't get them to roll up. Power locks are also not working now. Then randomly I try the key again, and it fires right up. Immediately I roll up the windows as we have nothing but rain forecast this week. I shut it back off wait 30 seconds and start up again. Worked a 2nd time. So turn it off, start putting things back together. Try one more time, and back to no crank no start. And now the car alarm starts going off. Had to disconnect battery and leave it that way for the night as I don't think my neighbors would appreciate my alarm going off again tonight. Any thoughts or help would be appreciated. 
    • No one will care for you like you care for you. Do what you can for as long as you can. IMHO of course. 
    • How about them NICKS!!! 
    • Hi there.  Long time lurker, first post.    i have read the previous posts regarding the water ingress problem with this emblem.  I bought my 1500 SLT the  summer of 2025 new and after reading the MANY problems with these emblems failing I decided to install one anyways.  As per a YouTube video, I sealed ( or tried to) this sign with silicone sealant around the outer perimeter joint and the holes that were already somewhat sealed on the rear plate of the emblem.  And installed the connector assembly using dielectric grease on the connectors. The installation looked great and worked well for about 4 months……then FAILURE.  Grrrrrr…… I live in the great white north and wash my truck weekly in an automatic car wash  to keep the salt off.  Let me tell you that removing the old, failed emblem is a whole different animal than removing the OEM individual letters without removing the grill assembly. Mainly because the illuminated logo is built differently than the original letters which  you can remove the red surface lettering with a knife or some kind of blade which gives access to the tabs which hold the logo onto the grill. So I had to essentially destroyed the old emblem to remove it. Doing so killed my chance of doing somekind of autopsy on the failed , old logo.  But there was plenty of water inside when I ripped it apart.  Prior to installing the new assembly I tried it with the old harness and it works fine.   Does anyone have any insight as to where the water is getting into this emblem? I intend to seal the new logo with slow curing epoxy this time around using a syringe.  I think this newer emblem may be an updated unit which I hope GM got the vendor to fix. It has an October 2025 date on it.    If this one  fails,  I am just going to revert back to the non-illuminated letters….AFTER PULLING THE GRILL.    Any thoughts on sealing with epoxy would be appreciated. Thx!   Doug  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...