Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I readjusted my seat to sit lower in the rear and the clunk has basically gone away. I don't like to sit that way but I will until I get the clamps rigged up.

Posted

Post 278 guys. This is what it looks like.

 

Works perfectly!!

where can I buy these clamps

 

 

Sent from my iPhone 6

using Tapatalk

Posted (edited)

Sounds like the rocking Recaro seat issue I had on my CTS-V that GM refused to fix...

That reminds me of a similar experience about 6 years ago. I got into the driver's seat of a brand new Corvette in the dealer's showroom.

The seat seemed to rock back and forth so much that I could not believe that someone would let this car out of the factory like this. Great testament to GM's nonexistent quality control.

Edited by pm26
Posted

Instead of using the expensive loops to get the rubber. I just bought a square of some for $2 and only needed a little. I think some old intertube would work also. This does look more getto, but so does house clamps on a $2000 seat. I'll still tell my dealer when I go in to log the issue.

Posted

Love the truck. Hate the drivers seat. So much so that I don't even like to drive the truck. I noticed the problem within 2 weeks of purchasing the truck. It is not only the seat movement issue, it also feels like the seat bottom upholstery has shifted around to the point that it feels lopsided. I have not contacted the dealer as yet as I am hoping that GM will come up with a fix that actually works. I read this entire thread and do not see an definitive fix that can be completed by the dealer. I want them to fix it and fix it right. No hose clamps!

  • Like 2
Posted

Chalk up another win for the clamps fix. Bought 2x 1" hose clamps and 2x 1" rubber insulated clamps from Lowes. removed the rubber from the insulated clamps, trimmed it down to 3/4" and slid it on the hose clamp. Installed them tight up against the inside of the white clips under the seat. Problem solved. Took me longer to buy the bits inside Lowes than it did to install. Source fix, as mentioned before is on page 19

 

http://www.gm-trucks.com/forums/topic/154219-seat-movement-issues/page-19

Posted

Had the dealer apply the fix last week and all is well so far.

 

Sent from my Surface with Windows RT using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I had the dealer order the parts and they have an outside upholster come in to do the repair. They told me that all work like that is farmed out. Its been 3 weeks and all is well. Maybe you need to have the right trade doing the work. Something that a wrench turner may not be that good at. And he didn't remove the seat to fix it, the guy removed the seat cover to do the repair. This was explained to me, now I wish I would have asked to watch him do it. Will keep an eye on it, but so-far-so-good!! I'm happy again!!

Edited by sduff
Posted

Happy to report that my seat has been fixed. The fix explained sounds similar to the clamp fix. They drill holes in the bar and install clips in the new holes on both sides. So far so good.

Posted

Had my drivers repaired a month ago, they basically rebuilt the entire seat frame. Got it back and immediately it felt great, like a seat should feel. Rigid, zero movement or swaying. Guess what? It's back!! I can feel a slight swaying in the lower back area again when going around corners and on bends in the road. Keeping an eye on here for a permanent fix to this.. So frustrating!!!

Posted

I finally did the "hose clamp" fix this weekend. I can't believe I waited so long: it's like driving a whole different truck. Thanks for showing me how.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...
    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...