Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm watching this as well. I am disappointed with this issue, but suspect it is cosmetic, but I hate to wait and do nothing to be wrong.

Posted

Just got my truck back again after 7 days at the shop for other problems as well.

What is sprayed on top of the wax giving the bumpy surface/

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I brought my 2014 Sierra in for service in January because of frame rust. I knew it was a joke when they said it would only be an hour before it was ready. Now two months later all of the rust is showing through again. I called GMC's complaint number, and they just connected me back to the dealership who said I could bring it back in to have it re-coated. My dealership is certainly not removing and treating the rust areas before applying the seal coat, just spraying it black and giving it back to the customer.

Posted

I brought my 2014 Sierra in for service in January because of frame rust. I knew it was a joke when they said it would only be an hour before it was ready. Now two months later all of the rust is showing through again. I called GMC's complaint number, and they just connected me back to the dealership who said I could bring it back in to have it re-coated. My dealership is certainly not removing and treating the rust areas before applying the seal coat, just spraying it black and giving it back to the customer.

AND THAT'S THE WHOLE IDEA. DO A SHODDY JOB SO YOU DO NOT COME BACK.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I wonder if you can spray the rust spots with Iron X to remove it and save the hastle of using a wire brush to get rid of it: http://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-Remover-500-Ml/dp/B004UM6DLE

 

Then just spray the 3M rubberized coating over these areas after washing the Ironx X off. I used Iron X to get rid of rail dust on the body of my truck but I also sprayed it on a rust spot on a steel door on my house and it removed all of the rust from that spot.

 

EDIT: The product description does say:

 

  • Iron X should not be used on chrome, bare metal parts, brake calipers, wheel balancing weights, or SMART paint repairs

So I dunno.......

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted (edited)

Started to notice rust on my frame lately as its spring and I'm starting to wash and clean my truck more often. It seems to be mostly on areas where it was welded. I don't even know if its worth the hassle of trying to get the dealership to fix it. They will likely just say it's because of the salt from the winter.

 

Just another thought, I don't really care so much if the rust is only cosmetic and won't cause issues in the future. That being said, where I can see my frame in the rear wheel well is rusted, has anyone considered using a bedliner materials to cover just that area?

Edited by Clocked92
Posted (edited)

Started to notice rust on my frame lately as its spring and I'm starting to wash and clean my truck more often. It seems to be mostly on areas where it was welded. I don't even know if its worth the hassle of trying to get the dealership to fix it. They will likely just say it's because of the salt from the winter.

 

Just another thought, I don't really care so much if the rust is only cosmetic and won't cause issues in the future. That being said, where I can see my frame in the rear wheel well is rusted, has anyone considered using a bedliner materials to cover just that area?

Mine is getting worse and it’s very frustrating – especially when you see Sierras and Silverados without this problem. Whenever I see someone’s 2014 or 2015 the first thing I do is check out the frame in the rear wheel well. I’ve contemplated taking it up with the dealer and bringing up the bulletin, but do I really want them taking off the box etc? I thought about giving the problem areas a shot of black Rustoleum or something, but this might make what’s left of the coating come off even faster. Hopefully this is just cosmetic. Regardless, it’s not a good feeling paying 50,000 for a vehicle and experiencing this issue on something that’s not even a year old. I guess it doesn’t hurt to try the dealer route and see what they say. In the meantime, have you thought about trying the plastic GM Wheel House Liners? I’m not sure if they go that far down to cover the frame but it might be worth it to look into..

Edited by wawy
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

What is sprayed on top of the wax giving the bumpy surface/

That is 5 attempts to cover the rust and making it worse every time, I have rustproof over spray from running boards, to paint, tailgate, back chrome bumper, wheels, exhaust tip etc... and is falling off really bad.

Posted

mrp, that rusted bolt on a '14 does not look good! That is fast rusting. I live in south, so we don't have so much of a rust issue, but we still have rust. I hate rust on my trucks. I bought a used '93 Dakota in '97 with 47,000 miles from Ohio. It was treated by previous owner with that Ziebart stuff - WOW - it works!! I still have that Dakota with not a bit of rust! Love it.

Posted

I have been using fluid film to protect against rust and so far so good. I had a 5x5" spot where the wax didnt seem to be bonded to the metal. Painted with flat black paint and reapplied FF. I've been reapplying every 6 months or so. Not for everybody but works for me.

Posted

I have been using fluid film to protect against rust and so far so good. I had a 5x5" spot where the wax didnt seem to be bonded to the metal. Painted with flat black paint and reapplied FF. I've been reapplying every 6 months or so. Not for everybody but works for me.

 

Is the fluid film softening the wax on your truck or not?? I would like to know because this is why I haven't put it on the wax. I have only been putting it bolts and nuts that need to be removed for maintenance, brake line ends/connections/bleeders, forged steel parts, tie rods, etc.

Posted

 

Is the fluid film softening the wax on your truck or not?? I would like to know because this is why I haven't put it on the wax. I have only been putting it bolts and nuts that need to be removed for maintenance, brake line ends/connections/bleeders, forged steel parts, tie rods, etc.

It made it slightly softer but never lost adhesion. Just one spot in the rear wheel well that looed suspicious before I even started putting FF on it. I'm not concerned about the wax. Every GM truck I have seen in person with this wax is begins to harden and crack, exposing the steel. Or water finds a bad spot in the wax that isn't visible and rust spreads under the wax. Last summer, while putting on my exhaust, I noticed that the sharp edges of all the drain holes on the bottom of the frame had wax that was peeling back and rust had started to spread underneath.

 

 

To be honest I wish the wax wasn't there at all because I would have been painting it with POR 15 and would never have to worry about it again.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi Guys, I just picked up one of the last 2014 Chevy Silverado's at my local dealer. The build date was Jan of 2014 and I noticed rust on the frame exactly like everyone in this post. After complaining to the dealer and sending info over regarding the TSB you all referenced GM will be completely removing the frame and re-coating it. I'm a little nervous that they will never get it back together properly, Has anyone else had this done? How long did it take? Any issues?

 

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Your tire pressure issue may just be batteries, you can reset them using tge Ing switch (I think) and the owner's  manual. ChatGTP will b e a faster, better help than Google.
    • The thinking is that starting out in a higher gear makes it easier to avoid applying excessive torque when pressing the gas pedal. In a modern 4wd truck with 4 low and a limited slip or locking rear end, I would use 4 low and try to crawl up the ramp. Sometimes if they are too slippery, you have to back up to let the boat have some bouyancy, and then accelerate briskly to get some momentum to help you pull the through the slippery parts. 
    • I have a Retrax pro that I first had on my 2020 chevy and transferred it to my current GMC.  It stays in the garage most of the time, so hard for me to judge it's long term weather resistance.  It still works perfectly, been very durable.  It doesn't see oil patch usage, but it's not a mall queen.  It keeps most things mostly dry (small leaks) and the security of it is enough to slow someone down but not keep them out for long.  I would buy one again, it works for me.     
    • Thanks to the convenience of Amazon, I was able to get a few things done to the truck today.  I installed Carquest Premium oil and air filters with five quarts of Mobil1 High Mileage 10-30 along with a quart of Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30 I already had.  The latch for the flip up center console lid was broken so I replaced it along with the power mirror switch.  I found my push retainer assortment this morning and reattached the plastic under the bumper and it was only held on with a few screws and retainers.  Then I programmed a new remote keyless entry fob so I can lock my dog in the truck when I take her out with me (I've got to keep the air going for her since it's been in the 100s).  Finally, I ordered some LED interior bulbs and replaced the reading lamps.  The front lights are working fine while one of the back lights only works intermittently and the other not at all.   While under the truck, I found the source of at least one of the noises: the sway bar links need replacing.  I ordered a set of Suspension Dudes links with Code Red bushings.  Never heard of them, but they're made in the USA and have decent reviews.  While making yet another Amazon order, I went ahead and added a set of front tow hooks.  I went with red, since that's the color of the sway bar link and bushings and it should look decent enough on a black and chrome truck.  Speaking of which, it doesn't bug me much, but the passenger side mirror has a chrome cap while the driver side doesn't, so eventually I'll make them match one way or another.  Oh, and I ordered a $20 TPMS reset tool.  No idea if it will do anything for my sensors but it was cheap and will work for the Ford Transit Connect as well.     For tradition's sake, I ordered a new oil change wrench.  I kept the Snap-On 9/16"x15mm GM wrench I bought when I was 18 in the 2006 GMC from the time I bought that truck until the truck was lost.  While I was tempted, there's no need to spend $80 for a new SO wrench, or even $50 with shipping for a used one on Ebay.  I just bought a Duratech 15mm extra-long ratcheting wrench to do the job as needed.  It works, and if I like that wrench enough, I'll buy the set.  
    • The recall is for exactly this issue - those drain holes combined with the limited environmental capability of the tailgate electronics card inside the tailgate were a problem. The “safety issue” was the potential for the tailgate to spontaneously open, but all kinds of tailgate misbehavior can occur from water contamination of that control card.    There is no real fix yet. The initial recall just disabled the tailgate. Later, when parts became available, they would replace bad parts with new parts of the same bad design. My dealer is going nuts because the few times I let them get their hands on my truck, my tailgate is off due to a slide-in camper installation. They really want to cut my tailgate wires, but I won’t give them the chance. I will let them get their dirty hands on it when a real fix (redesign) is available.  My tailgate, which works just fine with sealant plugging the drain holes, will remain safe in a dry storage crate until then.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...