Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I'm watching this as well. I am disappointed with this issue, but suspect it is cosmetic, but I hate to wait and do nothing to be wrong.

Posted

Just got my truck back again after 7 days at the shop for other problems as well.

What is sprayed on top of the wax giving the bumpy surface/

  • 1 month later...
Posted

I brought my 2014 Sierra in for service in January because of frame rust. I knew it was a joke when they said it would only be an hour before it was ready. Now two months later all of the rust is showing through again. I called GMC's complaint number, and they just connected me back to the dealership who said I could bring it back in to have it re-coated. My dealership is certainly not removing and treating the rust areas before applying the seal coat, just spraying it black and giving it back to the customer.

Posted

I brought my 2014 Sierra in for service in January because of frame rust. I knew it was a joke when they said it would only be an hour before it was ready. Now two months later all of the rust is showing through again. I called GMC's complaint number, and they just connected me back to the dealership who said I could bring it back in to have it re-coated. My dealership is certainly not removing and treating the rust areas before applying the seal coat, just spraying it black and giving it back to the customer.

AND THAT'S THE WHOLE IDEA. DO A SHODDY JOB SO YOU DO NOT COME BACK.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I wonder if you can spray the rust spots with Iron X to remove it and save the hastle of using a wire brush to get rid of it: http://www.amazon.com/Carpro-Iron-Remover-500-Ml/dp/B004UM6DLE

 

Then just spray the 3M rubberized coating over these areas after washing the Ironx X off. I used Iron X to get rid of rail dust on the body of my truck but I also sprayed it on a rust spot on a steel door on my house and it removed all of the rust from that spot.

 

EDIT: The product description does say:

 

  • Iron X should not be used on chrome, bare metal parts, brake calipers, wheel balancing weights, or SMART paint repairs

So I dunno.......

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted (edited)

Started to notice rust on my frame lately as its spring and I'm starting to wash and clean my truck more often. It seems to be mostly on areas where it was welded. I don't even know if its worth the hassle of trying to get the dealership to fix it. They will likely just say it's because of the salt from the winter.

 

Just another thought, I don't really care so much if the rust is only cosmetic and won't cause issues in the future. That being said, where I can see my frame in the rear wheel well is rusted, has anyone considered using a bedliner materials to cover just that area?

Edited by Clocked92
Posted (edited)

Started to notice rust on my frame lately as its spring and I'm starting to wash and clean my truck more often. It seems to be mostly on areas where it was welded. I don't even know if its worth the hassle of trying to get the dealership to fix it. They will likely just say it's because of the salt from the winter.

 

Just another thought, I don't really care so much if the rust is only cosmetic and won't cause issues in the future. That being said, where I can see my frame in the rear wheel well is rusted, has anyone considered using a bedliner materials to cover just that area?

Mine is getting worse and it’s very frustrating – especially when you see Sierras and Silverados without this problem. Whenever I see someone’s 2014 or 2015 the first thing I do is check out the frame in the rear wheel well. I’ve contemplated taking it up with the dealer and bringing up the bulletin, but do I really want them taking off the box etc? I thought about giving the problem areas a shot of black Rustoleum or something, but this might make what’s left of the coating come off even faster. Hopefully this is just cosmetic. Regardless, it’s not a good feeling paying 50,000 for a vehicle and experiencing this issue on something that’s not even a year old. I guess it doesn’t hurt to try the dealer route and see what they say. In the meantime, have you thought about trying the plastic GM Wheel House Liners? I’m not sure if they go that far down to cover the frame but it might be worth it to look into..

Edited by wawy
  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

What is sprayed on top of the wax giving the bumpy surface/

That is 5 attempts to cover the rust and making it worse every time, I have rustproof over spray from running boards, to paint, tailgate, back chrome bumper, wheels, exhaust tip etc... and is falling off really bad.

Posted

mrp, that rusted bolt on a '14 does not look good! That is fast rusting. I live in south, so we don't have so much of a rust issue, but we still have rust. I hate rust on my trucks. I bought a used '93 Dakota in '97 with 47,000 miles from Ohio. It was treated by previous owner with that Ziebart stuff - WOW - it works!! I still have that Dakota with not a bit of rust! Love it.

Posted

I have been using fluid film to protect against rust and so far so good. I had a 5x5" spot where the wax didnt seem to be bonded to the metal. Painted with flat black paint and reapplied FF. I've been reapplying every 6 months or so. Not for everybody but works for me.

Posted

I have been using fluid film to protect against rust and so far so good. I had a 5x5" spot where the wax didnt seem to be bonded to the metal. Painted with flat black paint and reapplied FF. I've been reapplying every 6 months or so. Not for everybody but works for me.

 

Is the fluid film softening the wax on your truck or not?? I would like to know because this is why I haven't put it on the wax. I have only been putting it bolts and nuts that need to be removed for maintenance, brake line ends/connections/bleeders, forged steel parts, tie rods, etc.

Posted

 

Is the fluid film softening the wax on your truck or not?? I would like to know because this is why I haven't put it on the wax. I have only been putting it bolts and nuts that need to be removed for maintenance, brake line ends/connections/bleeders, forged steel parts, tie rods, etc.

It made it slightly softer but never lost adhesion. Just one spot in the rear wheel well that looed suspicious before I even started putting FF on it. I'm not concerned about the wax. Every GM truck I have seen in person with this wax is begins to harden and crack, exposing the steel. Or water finds a bad spot in the wax that isn't visible and rust spreads under the wax. Last summer, while putting on my exhaust, I noticed that the sharp edges of all the drain holes on the bottom of the frame had wax that was peeling back and rust had started to spread underneath.

 

 

To be honest I wish the wax wasn't there at all because I would have been painting it with POR 15 and would never have to worry about it again.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hi Guys, I just picked up one of the last 2014 Chevy Silverado's at my local dealer. The build date was Jan of 2014 and I noticed rust on the frame exactly like everyone in this post. After complaining to the dealer and sending info over regarding the TSB you all referenced GM will be completely removing the frame and re-coating it. I'm a little nervous that they will never get it back together properly, Has anyone else had this done? How long did it take? Any issues?

 

Thanks

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I certainly could be wrong but I hear of pickups far newer than that 2007 cutoff which may not be going to the wrecker but are having engine work done and be that a reman engine or new engine or trying to repair the existing engine. Some of it would be design issues as per the cylinder deactivation system that GM has and one of those lifters wiping out the cam and the question of oil changes moving the needle or not on that whole mess, or in the case of Ford pickup engines that have the long timing chains and wearing them out and the roller followers and phasers and some of that certainly goes back to oil change intervals. But in those various cases the truck has all sorts of life left in it and so the unfortunate owner and may be original owner or used market owner that is pouring money into repairs so the truck is not seeing the salvage yard yet but damage is happening by infrequent oil changes. A friends son had bought a 2018 I think it is half ton GM and it had some sort of extended or used dealer warranty on it and of course the lifter issue bites and its rattling and so the dealer had to swallow the bill and was at least 7000.00 and I think they only replaced what they felt they had to replace so yeah, I can see that being a ticking time bomb in the not too distant future. Would frequent oil changes cure all these engineering "marvels", probably not but some engine designs have shown that they do much better if the oil is changed a lot more often then if the manufacturer service claims are followed. New trucks cost so much that there is an incentive to keep the existing truck on the road by repairing. 
    • get a good code reader, and find out what problems the truck has noticed by reading codes. cheap ones can only get basic engine codes, you may want to get one that can get codes from all the computers in your truck.
    • This is sort of my point, salvage yards aren't overflowing with all these 'poorly' maintained trucks - excellent/good/servicable condition otherwise, salvaged only as a result of a bad engine from poor oil change regiment.    In my area, there are no 2007 to newer gm trucks/suvs in any salvage yards. A few are in the 'recyclers' with very obvious reasons for being there - wrecked.
    • Stabilitrack was a stability control, traction control system, that functioned independently from the transfer case.   Z-71 has nothing to do with the transfer case or differential.   If it does have an AWD system, my memory recalls this being specific to the Denali trim, converting won't be as simple as swapping out mechanical parts like differentials and transfer cases. It will require reprogramming at a minimum. Long story short, not likely worth it.   Pulling a fuse, may disable the AWD system, it might also prevent any other transfer case functions.   However, the AWD case was generally based on the same transfer case you refer to in the 2006 Suburban. If it still has a 4-High and 4-Low where the transfer case locks and splits power 50-50 front to rear, what are you gaining by changing anything? A true-rear wheel drive only, what good will that serve? Not enough to go through the trouble of changing out all the parts.    Generally, all the factory systems will handle a 33" tire and re-gearing. Probably a 35" tire too, if you aren't driving like a caveman. If 35" tires are in the plan...   If you do plan on driving like a caveman or are fully committed to 35" tires, an entire re-think of the build is probably in order. Starting with square one, an IFS front end isn't going to be the best starting point for 35's and caveman driving. 
    • 1/2 qt over full ain`t gonna hurt $h!t. Most times, a whole qt won`t either. Most have windage trays now. As long as the crank isn`t slapping itself in the oil, it`s not the end of the world.   We used to overfill 1 qt at the track, at race time. Better to have it over full than having the pan sucked dry at 6500 rpm`s.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...