Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Does anyone know if the AFM problems were solved? Should I be concerned with the AFM in my new 2016 5.3L Silverado? thanks!

Posted

I'm with you. I bought my z71 2016 12,000 miles ago. I have scoured the Web and have not been able to find any reason to believe gm has fixed this. Or even can. I was very concerned that when I get a few miles on that my oil would start disappearing. I was kinda like I'll wait and see. At 10 k miles and on my second oil change I had a 1/3 of a quart that was just gone and cannot be accounted for??? I said screw it and I ordered a tuner and shut afm off.

 

I will keep an eye on it and see how this progresses. But I can say I'm getting a consistent 2.5 mpg better ( on highway) in gas milage anyway so...

 

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk

Posted

Plenty of people with the new ecotecs have not experienced oil consumption issues, me included. I think its a strtch tomsay there is still an issue with afm on these engines. I have 44K on my truck and have not experienced any oil useage.

Posted

oil Consumption is No longer an issue on the 2014 and up ecotech engine. Before I traded for this 2016 I drove my 2014 5.3 for over 60000 miles and had no oil consumption issues, got about 5000 miles on this 2016 6.2 and no oil consumption problem with it either. Now just so you understand that I do know about oil consumption problems here is a pic of one of the spark plugs that was fouled out in my 2009 5.3 oil burner. I drove that truck for over 80000 miles and had to keep a 5 quart container of 5w30 in the truck to fill it up with oil when I fueled up. I am probably one of the few people that still check oil level every time I fuel up. People look at you like DUH I didn't even know you could open the hood on a vehicle LOL....

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Haha 1
Posted

Has been mostly fixed minus the rogue replacement or failure. This gen and the last have been mostly good (you will hear some stuff but given the numbers sold and minimal amount of actual issues it is quite small), and they continue to improve upon it. None of ours have had an issue. One of my best friends is in sales and drives a ton and his Tahoe with it will hit 200k shortly and it still works great and doesn't use any oil (he checks a few times between oil changes).

 

I wouldn't worry about, works as advertised (should with the amount that use it and for how long they have been putting this in) and the engines are still clamored to be one of the best and most reliable. Buy, enjoy and drive, don't worry yourself with scouring forums for potential issues, that is all you will find and it won't be a proper market coverage of it...

 

Tyler

  • Like 1
Posted

Two main causes of AFM problems was oil suction through the PCV system and AFM discharge valve oil spray against the cylinder walls clogging the oil control rings and passing oil into the combustion chamber. The 5.3's AFM problems were likely cured in post 1/11 production when the cumulative modifications included, new valve cover to reduce oil suction on the PCV takeoff, AFM valve shield to direct sump discharge away from the cylinder wall, and redesigned hydraulic lifters. My 2nd gen '07 Avalanche had the problem, later '12 and '13 Avalanches had all the AFM mods and didn't burn oil nor exhibit any AFM or lifter related symptoms. Detailed info on the Chevy Avalanche Fan Club site.

 

I have to believe the AFM redesign mods continue into current production. I'd be more worried about relying upon that engine killer oil life monitor in the DIC and the Direct Injection modification to the current engines which provides more power and less pollution cleanup but the eliminates cooling, cleansing fuel spray from the valves by fuel injection directly into the combustion chamber. Newer DI engines use sodium filled valve stems - guess time will tell what, if anything, that cures or causes! Without exposure to fuel, the valves tend to buildup fuel deposits on the valve surfaces. And no amount of tuning or AFM shutoff will change that tendency - one theory is that you can only mitigate but not eliminate the deposit buildup by using tier one gasolines.

 

Engine tuning to eliminate AFM leaves a digital footprint which also eliminates your engine warranty.

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks guy, glad to hear! Any of you running a catch can on your 2016's? Do you feel it is necessary or not?

Posted

oil consumption comes along with miles once all the PCV venting stuff gets plugged up. mine has 190k and burns a quart every 1000 miles

 

What vehicle?

Posted

I too worried about the afm issues shortly after I bought my truck. I scoured the internet just like you, and eventually came to the the conclusion that most people do not experience these problems.

 

My neighbor has an '08 Suburban with the 5.3 and 90,000 miles. I asked him if it burns any oil, and he told me that it takes about 1 quart every 3,000 miles. In my opinion, this isn't so bad for a truck with 90,000 miles on it, especially in my area where we mostly drive in stop and go traffic. That being said, he has not had a single reliability issue with the truck for the entire time he owned it. I think that should be taken into consideration as well.

  • Like 1
Posted

Sheesh. Still enough evidence to disable or go HD gasser to avoid it.

 

Say what, what evidence??? I am on my second 2014+ DI engine truck and have yet to see any oil consumption issues. The engine in the 2014+ trucks is a completely new design from the previous generation engines, not one part was transferred over into the new DI engines.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...