Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

So frustrating to pay nearly 50k for a truck and have the interior rattle like a can of marbles. Guess thats what happens when GM has these trucks built in freaking Mexico. The interior of my 03 had no rattles at all. Of course, it was assembled at the Pontiac, MI assembly center. I wonder if there are any US-built 14-17 double cab owners with this same issue...

Posted (edited)

In your video there is a silver bracket. If you move it around it makes all kinds of noise. It is rivited to the wall and moves around. I tried sound deadner but it still rattled so i wedged a piece of speaker wire behind that bracket and I think that fixed it. I did all 4 seat belts earlier tonight..

Edited by lerbud06
Posted

Tried that wasn't it , so tonight I wedged a cloth in between my door and the b pillar , quieted the noise drastically, not gone but live able, also found 2 contact patches where my inner door molding is rubbing of my paint on the b pillar awesome ??

Posted

update on my truck, finally figured it 100% out, most of the noise was my door and b pillar tapping each other and creating the contact spots like I mentioned, but still had a slight noise, so I noticed when I weighted my side steps it faintly clicked, long story short I loosened and re torque my side steps correctly and tada, no more turtle sex in my left ear, Ill post pictures when I get the chance, I closed a rag in my door and let it sit like that for a few days, hopefully it tweaked the door a few mm to resolve that, now I need to figure out my paint issue, oh and I just rolled 3000 miles today, glad this one is leased :M16:

  • Like 2
Posted (edited)

update on my truck, finally figured it 100% out, most of the noise was my door and b pillar tapping each other and creating the contact spots like I mentioned, but still had a slight noise, so I noticed when I weighted my side steps it faintly clicked, long story short I loosened and re torque my side steps correctly and tada, no more turtle sex in my left ear, Ill post pictures when I get the chance, I closed a rag in my door and let it sit like that for a few days, hopefully it tweaked the door a few mm to resolve that, now I need to figure out my paint issue, oh and I just rolled 3000 miles today, glad this one is leased :M16:

 

Great information. I need to try this as well! Does anyone know how much we should torque the side steps down?

Edited by AL's LT
Posted

Torque Spec is 13-15 ft lbs, but honestly just go tight with a normal 3/8 ratchet and don't muscle it too much, should be held in by speed clips so the worse you can do it bend the clips, and if you do crazy pull the rocker so don't go nuts, and 2 10mm bolts for the grab handle, step rip and tear, these clips are a gift from the devil himself so make sure you have a trim tool remover handy

  • Like 1
Posted

And the way I torque them down is get all the bolts started , push the steps up slightly , bottom 2 inner first; 2 bottom outer and the upper 4 same order in then out

Posted

Thought I had a b pillar rattle on the passenger side.

 

Only happend sometimes. Turned out it was the position of the seatbelt tongue.

 

All is good now.

  • Like 1
Posted

update on my truck, finally figured it 100% out, most of the noise was my door and b pillar tapping each other and creating the contact spots like I mentioned, but still had a slight noise, so I noticed when I weighted my side steps it faintly clicked, long story short I loosened and re torque my side steps correctly and tada, no more turtle sex in my left ear, Ill post pictures when I get the chance, I closed a rag in my door and let it sit like that for a few days, hopefully it tweaked the door a few mm to resolve that, now I need to figure out my paint issue, oh and I just rolled 3000 miles today, glad this one is leased :M16:

Thanks so much for your relentless effort to find where the turtles were fornicating. I will try this fix when I get a chance. I messed around with the tightness of my step bolts a few weeks ago and the ticking grew more faint. So this makes sense. Hopefully I can resolve it 100%.
Posted

I've got this same issue, but I don't have any side steps yet. I'll look and see if it's my seatbelt tapping the B-Pillar. Mine is on the passenger side tho.

Posted

Have a brand new 2017 Silverado, same issue and not even 100 miles on it yet. What side steps exactly are you talking about, the ones that are labeled Z71?

The steps on the exterior of the truck, the things you step on to leverage yourself into the vehicle. Not the door sill plates.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Looks like it's riveted to me. What is wrong with that 1? Welcome to the Forum!
    • Missing pieces of the Assembly   Detergency vs Solvency   Not the same thing. Detergency is the mechanism that surrounds solid particulates preventing amalgamation. Usually accompanied by a Dispersant whose job it is to keep those encapsulated particles in Suspension. Solvency keeps things that can be dissolved in solution.    Salt is a solid that can be dissolved. Pepper is a solid that cannot be dissolved. A detergent/dispersant is effective on pepper but a solvent is more effective on salt. As long as the solids remain in either state, dissolved or dispersed then they can be be removed with the oil upon change.    How many wranglers does it take to herd cats? Depends on how many cats your herding. How much sponge does it take to soak up water? How much water is there to soak up? Point is most oil blends start with some herding ability and next to zero sponge and recently even fewer wranglers are being sent to do the same job.    So you start with a dozen cowboys and zero cows but at the drive progresses you pick up cows along the way, but not cowboys. At some point you have more cows that the wranglers can handle and some leave the herd. Deposits. And the API has an acceptable number of cows they are willing to let loose. In the ideal world zero is the right number for he rancher but to the butcher....a few lost is fine. This cow is beat to death. Let's move on....   Solvency isn't something oils on the Walmart shelf care about AT ALL. Problem is, you motor does. Fuels driven varnish sticks rings and only a solvent can keep them in check. The bet is that the solids driven portion that plug the expander rings and the oil drain backs and VVT screens and AFM screens will be an issue long before varnish is. Not that it wont be but if they market well enough the consumer can be kept ignorant enough to either believe it is "normal" (A quart in 1 or 2K is normal) OR is kept at bay longer than the first owner is likely to hang on to the unit. Solvency cost money.    Now the OEM's have John Q. Public buffaloed into the belief that the number cows accumulated along the trail is a known and predictable CONSTANT. It isn't. Nor is the rate at which they crossed paths with them. Only the number of wrangles is constant. Or was. Each new generation of oil sees fewer and fewer of them.    So what happens when the number of cowboys is lower (lower TBN) with each seasons trail but the trial is longer (OCI) and the number of cows along that trail continues increase? (Conditions that promote deposits).    For awhile the blenders were on to something. Better bases are harder to degrade (fewer cows) but that was overtaken by a longer trail (OCI) and improved breeding (More cows) while continuing to reduce the cowboy staffing levels (TBN/Aniline #).    Marketing has been successful. We've fired most of the staff, cows breed line bunnies, the trail is ten times longer and we've convinced the boss his ranch is in better shape that it ever was.    That kids is just the cleaning side. The side few pay attention to.     
    • Mann+Hummel since 1941 per their web site 
    • Looking for this part for my truck. They don't sell just that one piece and to get it you have to pay over $100 even used for the whole air tube. The piece the hose clamp snaps into that is held on by the screw and nut. If anyone has access to one please let me know.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...