Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

HI,

I have purchased 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 in September of last year, everything seem to be fine until yesterday.  while standing at the light with the break pressed, the rear camera picture appeared on the display.  it does not have the the guide lines, just the picture, every time I press the break the camera comes on.  When i come to the stop and take my time to put in reverse, the picture stays without the guidelines even though it is in reverse.  If i Put in reverse quickly, the camera comes on as it should with the guide lines.  

I have switched bulbs to LED bulbs with resistors for breaks and reverse no resistors as they do not blink, but it was back in September without any issues so far until now. not sure if that can cause the malfunction or not, but i would think that LEDs have nothing to do with the camera.

I'm assuming that water got somewhere and its shorting out/powering up camera.  its cold here so I did not get the chance to look at it yet.

if anyone can point me to where the camera gets the signal from i can probably figure it out before i go back to the dealer to get that fixed.

Notice below  what gear the truck is in including "R" no guide lines..

thanks a lot..

IMG_2970.jpg

IMG_2972.jpg

IMG_2971.jpg

Posted
HI,
I have purchased 2017 Chevy Silverado 1500 in September of last year, everything seem to be fine until yesterday.  while standing at the light with the break pressed, the rear camera picture appeared on the display.  it does not have the the guide lines, just the picture, every time I press the break the camera comes on.  When i come to the stop and take my time to put in reverse, the picture stays without the guidelines even though it is in reverse.  If i Put in reverse quickly, the camera comes on as it should with the guide lines.  
I have switched bulbs to LED bulbs with resistors for breaks and reverse no resistors as they do not blink, but it was back in September without any issues so far until now. not sure if that can cause the malfunction or not, but i would think that LEDs have nothing to do with the camera.
I'm assuming that water got somewhere and its shorting out/powering up camera.  its cold here so I did not get the chance to look at it yet.
if anyone can point me to where the camera gets the signal from i can probably figure it out before i go back to the dealer to get that fixed.
Notice below  what gear the truck is in including "R" no guide lines..
thanks a lot..
IMG_2970.thumb.jpg.3680646895bc9c36de2d9fcef191511d.jpg
IMG_2972.thumb.jpg.a5424526a013260b48b6b0eb48216214.jpg
IMG_2971.thumb.jpg.69ef7561e0ed4ff03e4924f872ba2b26.jpg
There is a setting for camera on. Is that the issue?

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Posted

i've looked at the settings and it only lets you display the guide lines, i have also re-set everything to factory settings and still does it.   =(

  • Like 1
Posted

Man I never heard of that issue before. I guess the most practical thing to do is to simply change the bulbs back to factory bulbs that came on the truck?

If the problem is still there after that, then the dealer will fix it under warranty and you can reinstall the Led bulbs??  

Posted

yes i believe i got the in the box, its suppose to warm up slightly in the next couple days, ill look at the connection where the camera harness is plugged in, maybe moisture got into the plug...

ill update after i try that....

Posted

UPDATE......

I made an appointment to the dealer for oil change and i was going to mention about the issue, but i figured that i better remove my LED bulbs from the rear lights.   I started with the reverse lights, i have pulled one of the LEDs out and replaced it  with the original bulb and..... against my believes the problem cleared.

obviously i had to replace the other side as well, but it seems like the passenger side bulb was causing the problem.  It was too cold for me to start switching bulbs (but i will get back to it).  My question is....  why would the bulb cause the issue after 4 months when it was not even energized unless the truck was in reverse, so it should not effect anything.  I'm assuming that one of the diodes burned and somehow there was reverse voltage feed to the camera..  don't know, but ill look into it when it gets warmer..

the LED in question is:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LX4FMD1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

   

 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

My problem is that I have a faulty tailgate led light strip thats plugged into my 4 pin trailer connector which is causing my reverse camera to turn on

Posted

I'd have to say, this is a bit of a strange thread. I can't think of a reason why replacing a bulb would mess with a curcuit that's connected to the rear camera... hmm.

 

I hope it was an easy fix

 

Posted
On 2/21/2018 at 6:40 PM, a_salazar08 said:

I'd have to say, this is a bit of a strange thread. I can't think of a reason why replacing a bulb would mess with a curcuit that's connected to the rear camera... hmm.

 

I hope it was an easy fix

 

not sure why but all o have to do is put the original reverse bulbs and problem went away, i still have LEDS in break-lights and that is not causing problem for now..  not sure

  • 11 months later...
Posted

I have the exact same problem.  Just started today.  I have led reverse bulbs, now I am wondering if they are the problem.  They are Phillips and have had them for over a year now.  Also have LTZ taillights, hope they aren't the problem 

Posted

Found out the problem with my camera coming on when I hit the brakes.  Turned out to have nothing to with the LED lights.  Found water in the plug behind the rear bumper for the left hand taillight.  Cleaned out the water, cleaned up the connections, applied dielectric connectors grease to connections.  Everything works great now!

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Bringing this old one back. Im having this problem now too. Anyone else ever have this and resolve it? 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Folks, Have a great new 2026 WT  (std cab, 2.7/4WD) w/base 40/20/40 mech adj bench "fake buckets"  (with lower and upper center console) heavy vinyl seats.  Overall the seats are very comfortable and the vinyl is heavy and appears less likely to 'split out'. Am very tall (6'5")  + a bad back/osteporosis/former hyperparathyroidism so ease/range of movement is a bit restricted.  The truck rides a bit high and I use a nerf step bar w/my left foot to step in, then I put right foot/leg in, drag my butt in  & get seated.  Worked fine in my 2018 RAM quadCab. But I end up dragging my butt over the left raised sidecushsion area of vinyl seat, and due to texture there's fair amount of traction on slide inward.  (ArmorAll didn't improve.) If the seat were even ~1/2" - 3/4" lower it'd be helpful, but base seats just have the forward/backward underseat bail and the side lever for tilt which really doesn't affect seat height.   I really don't want to 'de-puff' the left side sidecushion forming the  fake 'bucket'. I know one company sells 'seat elevator blocks':  but is there a simple way of lowering the height of the driver seat instead?   Thanks Bill W San Jose  
    • I have a basic 2026 1500 WT  (2.7L/4WD reg cab shorttbed). Comfy, generally happy with electronics/radio - but is there a way I can add switches to steering wheel right-side position (curr. empty) so I can adjust volume, push phone button to voice dial, etc? Bill W San Jose  
    • The curb weight on a 1 ton crew cab long bed is around 7k lbs.  Now, I don't know where you went to school but 9k is not more than 2x 7k lbs. More than 2x 7k lbs would be 14k+.   With that said, obviously yes you're going to feel a 9k lb trailer when slowing down.  I already said, when accelerating.  When changing lanes?  No.  But if you look at the context of what was quoted, the original person said, "after a mile or two..." which means that would be after the accelerating portion and you're driving a generally steady pace.  Please do learn to read and comprehend.
    • So I purchased the Range unit for my 2026 and I am seeing different locations suggested for the ECM . Can anyone confirm wither under hood, left side or right side or behind the wheelwell?
    • Like I've said before. Di and Carbon buildup is not that big of a concern. Engine had minimal buildup, and that engine was obviously not super well maintained. Do regular oil changes, and you're gtg as long as the rest of the truck lasts. Also, the High Pressure FP that people ****** about, but can't tell you why.  Now, I wish they'd trash the variable oil pump. No real world issues with them, but I'll gladly eat whatever miniscule MPG it's saving me in favor of more oil at all RPMs.    Curious to see his assessment of the 7.3 compared to the 6.6. I expect he'll praise the port inj, but from a structural standpoint, the 6.6 is as robust as any engine out there.    Not to take away from the 7.3. I feel it's equally as good as the 6.6.     As to heat on the rear cyls, I'd have to see numerous examples before I'd say it's an issue. Especially not knowing the history of that engine. For all is known, they could have blown a rad hose, and ran it hot, and the 2 rear cyls may be the first to get hot in a low coolant situation, but not be an issue aside from that. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...