Jump to content

AFM Disable Damage

L83_Z71
 Share

Recommended Posts

L83_Z71 Enthusiast

L83_Z71

Posted
Posted

Evening y'all,

 

I know the subject of AFM either deletion or disabling has been beat with a stick but as I was doing some digging I came across a couple of articles that had me wondering. So I recently just ordered a Range for my '16 5.3 and am/ was eager to install it but.... I read that when disabling AFM in the long run it can hurt the motor i.e. lifters. My question is, has anyone been running a AFM disable tune/ flash for a few years and had any issues?

 

Thanks guys 

MaverickZ71 Senior Enthusiast

MaverickZ71

Posted
Posted (edited)

Consensus on this website and others seems to be to delete AFM in any way possible as soon as possible, to eliminate oil usage and other potential problems; some say it results in smoother shifting and a better sounding exhaust, and most say it doesn't harm your fuel mileage too much at all.  Some folks think that having all 8 cylinders firing all the time is actually better for your engine in the long run.  

 

In 8 years on multiple forums, I have not heard of any damage caused by turning off AFM.  Seems like any damage is caused by not turning off AFM soon enough.  Yes, it is still possible to have AFM lifters fail after turning off AFM.  But that is due to faulty design or manufacture, not due to AFM being turned off.  All the Range V8 module does is turn off AFM.  Now, of course, it is possible to damage your engine if you use an aftermarket tuner to turn off AFM and install a high performance tune that requires higher octane fuel, and you continue to run regular fuel, or something like that.  And you still need to use the proper Dexos-rated motor oil and change it at the proper intervals, either way. 

 

I ran a Range V8 module for 4 years and then switched to a Hypertech Max Energy 2.0 tuner to turn off the AFM and tune other functions.  

Edited by MaverickZ71
  • Like 4
BigBlueLB756 Senior Enthusiast

BigBlueLB756

Posted
Posted

Fully agree with what Bret said about oil and the use of a Hypertech tuner.  Now the truck just feels "right".

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
2014KL Enthusiast

2014KL

Posted
Posted

My last truck was a 2014 5.3.  I had afm tuned out at under 1000 miles and returned it to stock 3.5 years later at 51,000 before trading it in.  I ran it for a couple months like that and no problems at all.  My current truck is a 2014 6.2 and now has 37k miles and is stock. Neither truck used any oil.

  • Like 1
L83_Z71 Enthusiast

L83_Z71

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 7/6/2018 at 1:25 PM, MaverickZ71 said:

Consensus on this website and others seems to be to delete AFM in any way possible as soon as possible, to eliminate oil usage and other potential problems; some say it results in smoother shifting and a better sounding exhaust, and most say it doesn't harm your fuel mileage too much at all.  Some folks think that having all 8 cylinders firing all the time is actually better for your engine in the long run.  

 

In 8 years on multiple forums, I have not heard of any damage caused by turning off AFM.  Seems like any damage is caused by not turning off AFM soon enough.  Yes, it is still possible to have AFM lifters fail after turning off AFM.  But that is due to faulty design or manufacture, not due to AFM being turned off.  All the Range V8 module does is turn off AFM.  Now, of course, it is possible to damage your engine if you use an aftermarket tuner to turn off AFM and install a high performance tune that requires higher octane fuel, and you continue to run regular fuel, or something like that.  And you still need to use the proper Dexos-rated motor oil and change it at the proper intervals, either way. 

 

I ran a Range V8 module for 4 years and then switched to a Hypertech Max Energy 2.0 tuner to turn off the AFM and tune other functions.  

Understood, just wanted to get y'all's opinion on it. Like I had said, upon hundreds of people saying it's great, I found 3 maybe 2 articles stating the negatives. I'd rather real people's opinions. Also yes I agree about oil and stuff . 

  • 10 months later...
ILSilverado Enthusiast

ILSilverado

Posted
Posted

I have been using the Range OBD2 AFM disabler  on my C7 Corvette for awhile now its fantastic. Waiting for Range to certify the DFM version for my Silverado. I will be first in line. The motor is made to run on all cylinders  no worry about that.

  • 7 months later...
Kevin vallem New Member

Kevin vallem

Posted
Posted

Hi guys I just installed in my 2008 Silverado and I like so far. Do I need to install a switch to prevent battery drain? I only dive it a few times a week. 
thank you in advance for any input. 
 

kevin

dsr611 Senior Enthusiast

dsr611

Posted
Posted
3 hours ago, Kevin vallem said:

Hi guys I just installed in my 2008 Silverado and I like so far. Do I need to install a switch to prevent battery drain? I only dive it a few times a week. 
thank you in advance for any input. 
 

kevin

No switch needed...if you're worried about it draining the battery, simply remove it from the OBD port.  No need in trying to re-invent the wheel

 

https://www.rangetechnology.com/blog/post/battery_draw/

  • 2 weeks later...
Prospect62 Enthusiast

Prospect62

Posted
Posted

I know I'm new here and have been posting about this elsewhere, but can someone who has experience around here tell me if there have ever been any complaints of the Range causing mechanical engine problems?

  • 4 weeks later...
BigBlueLB756 Senior Enthusiast

BigBlueLB756

Posted
Posted

Worked just fine on my 2016 Tahoe.  No complaints; just more fun with the Hypertech tune installed and the AFM disabled with it.

  • 2 months later...
Will0997 New Member

Will0997

Posted
Posted

has anyone heard of havin engine failure/ruining your engine by putting a cat back exhaust on your 5.3L without disabling the AFM? 
 

ive recently purchased a ‘15 Sierra and I went to an exhaust shop to cut the stock exhaust off at the 3rd cat and put a y-pipe with dual 2.5” pipes out the back and they told me that when it switches to the 4-cylinder mode I could ruin my engine by not having enough back pressure. 
 

Anyone able to confirm/deny this from their experience?
 

I have a Range AFM disabler coming in the mail but it’ll take about 2 weeks to come in. 

  • 2 months later...
AaronnL New Member

AaronnL

Posted
Posted

WOW! Even though I just bought a 2008 Impala SS, this is all great information! I have been running in circles reading everything I can since I bought it. I really would like to throw in a simple exhaust, nothing crazy maybe just do a straight pipe or glass one. Disable the AFM and get a 91 tune. But we will see. Does anyone have experience with Diablo? Is HP hard to learn? Do you even want my car questions here lol? Any help is awesome!

  • 3 months later...
Brett2836 New Member

Brett2836

Posted
Posted

I’ve got a 2018 Sierra 50k miles and already has a cold start lifter tick. Would this make it worse or damage my lifters if I install? All I want is a long engine life don’t care about power or fuel mileage I just want my motor to last anybody have any ideas on what I should do? I can replace lifters for $2000 should I replace first ? I’m scared if I don’t fix now they will collapse and blow my motor 

CamGTP Senior Enthusiast

CamGTP

Posted
Posted

These engines will make noise no matter what you do. It's either cold start piston slap or lifter tick. On some it's even the injectors on the GDI trucks, they are very loud when cold.


Spending all that money and getting the same noise afterwards isn't a smart idea to me. The range product or any other tuner that disables the AFM will not harm anything. Just know that just because the AFM is turned off doesn't mean that failure can't still happen. Those parts are still installed in the engine but just not being activated, they could still fail but nobody can tell you if or when.

 

I have 107k miles on my truck, it makes all sorts of sounds. Cold start oil pump noise (normal to hear), injector noise and lifter tick when cold. It sounds like every other LS/LT engine I've had for the past few years. If it doesn't sound like a sewing machine at times, then I'd think something is wrong lol.

  • Like 2
MaverickZ71 Senior Enthusiast

MaverickZ71

Posted
Posted (edited)
On 10/31/2020 at 12:17 AM, CamGTP said:

These engines will make noise no matter what you do. It's either cold start piston slap or lifter tick. On some it's even the injectors on the GDI trucks, they are very loud when cold.


Spending all that money and getting the same noise afterwards isn't a smart idea to me. The range product or any other tuner that disables the AFM will not harm anything. Just know that just because the AFM is turned off doesn't mean that failure can't still happen. Those parts are still installed in the engine but just not being activated, they could still fail but nobody can tell you if or when.

 

I have 107k miles on my truck, it makes all sorts of sounds. Cold start oil pump noise (normal to hear), injector noise and lifter tick when cold. It sounds like every other LS/LT engine I've had for the past few years. If it doesn't sound like a sewing machine at times, then I'd think something is wrong lol.

THIS.  The 5.3L in our '09 Silverado sounds like the first 45 seconds of Van Halen's Hot for Teacher song on every cold startup and even some warm startups.  

Edited by MaverickZ71
  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • PunchT37
      Would this CV Shaft be bad?

      By PunchT37 · Posted

      Yes. You need to check out that thing, and the hub further.
    • anthony2558
      Would this CV Shaft be bad?

      By anthony2558 · Posted

      Would this be normal or a worn CV Shaft? 51K miles 3.5" lift? Boots are intact and no visible leaks showing. Attached is a the video I took. Thanks     https://youtu.be/ZnW7PPRmjJY?feature=shared    
    • Jsdirt
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By Jsdirt · Posted

      If everything checks out at the MAF, then the MAF is BAD, new or not.   You don't need a signal generator to troubleshoot this. PCM needs ALL powers and ALL grounds able to light a halogen headlight bulb - if it can light the bulb bright, then the wiring is good enough to run the PCM.   Best thing you can do for yourself is spend some time here: scannerdanner.com - Check out all his YouTube videos on similar issues. If you decide to subscribe it's the best bang-for-buck ratio in the automotive world, hands-down. He's got TONS of free vids on YouTube, too.
    • Tyler Gibbs
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Tyler Gibbs · Posted

      You got that Hengst D110??
    • contrabombarde
      2010 Avalanche 5.3 not running correctly after engine swap.

      By contrabombarde · Posted

      Yes, I used my multimeter to probe all of the wires at the MAF, both with the sensor connected, sensor disconnected, key on engine off, key on engine running, etc etc etc. I probed all of the wires again at the PCM, at the connectors, etc. All voltages are what they should be according to the service manual/wiring diagrams. All grounds are good, less than 20 millivolts from the battery negative under load. Both at the connector of the MAF, at the PCM connector etc.      I know this throws a pretty big wrench into things, but this truck was acting up before the swap. I don't have very much information, if any on what was causing it, but if you cleared all of the dtcs it would do the same thing where it would crank, fire, then die. And it would do the same thing a dozen or so times, and eventually it would start and run, but the difference is that it would run and actually be drivable. Whereas now if you can drive it at all, it goes into reduced power mode almost immediately, and even then it's not running correctly. When you come to a stop at a light it stumbles down to for 500 RPM before catching itself and returning to the smooth idle. And if you go more than about 50% throttle then it immediately goes back to doing the misfire thing.    Like I said, I know that throws a wrench into things, and unfortunately I was not able to pull any data or anything like that before I did this work, so I don't have much to go on.    I'm trying to not fixate on one particular thing as the cause of the problem, but it seems like all avenues are pointing me towards the PCM. Like I said I have tested the wiring extensively (see above), and during cranking the sensor does produce seemingly legitimate values at least according to my multimeter, but as soon as the engine fires those values quickly descend into gibberish. I've tried it with multiple different known working sensors, I have done literally every test I can think of multiple times on the wiring (probing the signals, probing the pins with the sensors unplugged, probing the pins at the PCM, voltage drop, voltage drop under load, continuity, ohms, and double-checking everything against the wiring diagrams/ proper values in the service data.)    Another thing that pushes me towards a possible PCM failure is, I have noticed in troubleshooting a little bit taking a break and coming back, that when I leave the truck to sit for a while and cool off, it starts and runs smoothly when I first start it up. However once it warms up. It starts having problems. For example, when I went out to the truck this morning after it had been sitting overnight, I was actually able to drive it down the block. And then once I got on the throttle a Little bit after going about a thousand ft, it started misfiring again. I pulled it back into the driveway, shut it down, and started it back up. It idled smoothly. As soon as I touched the throttle it did the misfire thing again. From then on as soon as I started it it would misfire. I shut the truck off and went to go get a coffee and do a bit more research. When I came back out I started the truck up and it immediately went into the smooth idle. After a couple of minutes of playing around with it, it would not idle smoothly anymore. Let it sit a couple of hours, rinse and repeat. This makes me think with temperature change something is going wrong inside the PCM. I have the PCM out of the 2007 donor vehicle and I'm thinking of getting a one-day subscription to the ACDelco programming service to try and program that and see if it helps.   Like I said, I'm really trying to not fixate myself on one potential cause, but it seems everything is pointing me towards PCM failure. I would really like to try to confirm that, but unfortunately I don't have an oscilloscope or a signal generator to do the GM service procedure where you feed 5 khz into the signal pin. 

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...