Another leveling kit thread

[Cjc16]

In regards to leveling these new GMCs (mine: 2018) is there a definitive answer on what the issues are? And specifically how to avoid the issue? I have fine tooth combed every forum possible and it’s like throwing darts drunk. 

 

I've heard it'll blow out the ball joints, the electronic steering gear, tie rod ends, etc. 

 

I've heard don't go over 1.75", don't go over 2.5", and even 2.25" is the limit before you'll have issues. 

 

I've heard it's from installation errors... Like no support under control arm when you knock the knuckle to separate the ball joint and the sudden drop/slack causes damage. I've heard if you don't disconnect the electronic power steering harnesses or battery the shock from separating the ball joint can cause a spark that damages the EPS. 

 

I've talked to multiple 4x4 shops that install these and most say they've done hundreds/thousands with no issues, which of course I doubt. It's just too widespread of an issue. 

 

So does anyone know the secret recipe to a level kit that won't screw up the front end on these new GMCs? Is there anyone out there that's put a substantial amount of miles (25k or more) with their level kit with out the clicking, popping, etc?

 

Sorry to beat a dead horse. 

 

 

 

 

 

['17 Sierra]

That’s the first I’ve heard that the LCA needs to be supported or it will cause damage. Steering connector does NOT need to be disconnected and if you do disconnect it, plan on using silicone to secure the connection back on because the locks break...ask me how I know. I have 12k on mine now with a 2” lower spacer only and it’s been perfect. No clunks, no uneven tire ware. Truck sits nice where it’s at. I’ve heard many times that 2” is the limit you should go with stock control arms, never heard 1.75” but I’ve been wrong before. Technically, you can put in the lower spacer without releasing ball joint. I did it. I’m a lot like you though. I researched the crap out of this before doing my level and I left the rear alone too. Good luck ? 

[Boardmember]

One somewhat useful suggestion to mitigate some of this:  get your dealership to do it.  For me, $180 included alignment.  2”.  

[catpartsman]

I put a pro comp 2.25” level on the front at 5600 miles. At 63000 miles i changed to the 5100’s and left the lower spacer on with them set at max height. Other than a slightly stiffer ride, I have experienced zero issues with anything. My truck is a 2015 Sierra SLT. Maybe I have been lucky to this point? I don’t abuse my truck and keep it on the road 99% of the time. The only off roading i do is getting to my deer stand in the fall ad even then I wouldn’t consider it off roading. I put a 2” block in the rear and removed the factory block at 38000 miles too.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kylant]

I did the Readylift 2.25" with UCA on mine. I can see how going higher with stamped steel UCAs can lead to the ball joint popping out. New UCAs correct this. My truck has Magneride, so I also used a Magneride rod relocation bracket and had the dealer do a "trim height relearn."

 

Sure a level puts more strain on the suspension components, but it the grand scheme of things, does it really matter? You may need to replace ball joints at 75K instead of 100K.

 

As far as install, yes you need to support the knuckle when the UCA is disconnected from it. You don't want it pulling out the cv axle or yanking on any of the electronic lines, or brakes. You don't really need to disconnect anything else. 

 

I don't have any binding, popping, etc... One thing I did notice after install was the UCA was resting on the frame bumpstop when at ride height. Essentially that meant no suspension down travel. I pulled the little rubber pad so there was at least a small gap. One company specifically states in their instructions to remove that. 

One UCA company actually states to cut the bump stop out. I wasn't willing to do that yet.

 

[Denali34]

12 minutes ago, kylant said:

I did the Readylift 2.25" with UCA on mine. I can see how going higher with stamped steel UCAs can lead to the ball joint popping out. New UCAs correct this. My truck has Magneride, so I also used a Magneride rod relocation bracket and had the dealer do a "trim height relearn."

 

Sure a level puts more strain on the suspension components, but it the grand scheme of things, does it really matter? You may need to replace ball joints at 75K instead of 100K.

 

As far as install, yes you need to support the knuckle when the UCA is disconnected from it. You don't want it pulling out the cv axle or yanking on any of the electronic lines, or brakes. You don't really need to disconnect anything else. 

 

I don't have any binding, popping, etc... One thing I did notice after install was the UCA was resting on the frame bumpstop when at ride height. Essentially that meant no suspension down travel. I pulled the little rubber pad so there was at least a small gap. One company specifically states in their instructions to remove that. 

One UCA company actually states to cut the bump stop out. I wasn't willing to do that yet.

 

Even with the relocation bracket you had the trim height relearned? When I installed mine in the garage I was told having that bracket eliminates the needs to have it relearned since it didn't change any with the bracket. My truck rides fine. Did you notice any difference after having it relearned? 

[Silverado-Hareek]

I didn't do any modifications to my 2007 Silverado and I had to replace my ball joints by 75,000.  That was why I didn't care about leveling my current 2014 and putting on bigger tires.  The OEM crap parts are going to wear out too early anyway so might as well enjoy it.

 

To answer the OP, there's no definitive answer really.  Generally, speaking, the higher you go with a level, the more you are straining the front suspension and driveline and the more you approach the category of doing a proper suspension lift, differential drop, etc. Me personally, I went with the 2nd to highest setting on Bilstein 5100 leveling shocks.  It lifted the front end and didn't put too much of a strain or angle on the CV joints, control arms, tie rod ends, etc.  The lift height on the shock is 1.23".  The next setting was 1.85" and I probably would've still been ok, but it would've equaled more strain and more extreme angles on the front end joints.  Only time will tell if that matters and once you do a level/lift and a problem shows up down the road, you can't go back in time and not do the level/lift and see if things would've worked out differently.  That's why no one can definitely say "doing X will cause Y" to your truck.  You just need to use reasonable judgement about what modifications you want to make and how much of a strain or impact it will have on your truck and decide if it's worth the risk to you or not.  Me personally, I wasn't fully comfortable going with the full height level on my 5100 shocks, but that doesn't mean doing so would've been bad or caused a problem.  I just decided the midpoint setting was the most risk I was willing to take for now.

[Donstar]

Well said, Silverado-Hareek.  It is a case of risk tolerance.  You can and will find support for your proposed mod if you keep looking.  It sounds like you've found many of the potential problems.  

[amxguy1970]

Silverado hit it on the head. Anything over stock adds wear, those that say there is some safe amount over stock are flat out lying and misinformed (do not listen to those people). On top of the level it self wider tires, heavier tires (wheels too) add strain and can cause premature failures, doesn't happen often but they do. Either way you seem to have been doing your homework, not sure the point in starting another new thread to just get the same answers you have seen though. Be smart, you have to be ready to pay to play if something goes wrong GM won't cover it. It may last problem free the life of the truck or may fail fairly quickly. Just think it through what you want, will do and plan to get at with your choices. I prefer to error on the side of caution, I went 1.5 front and 1 rear with a P rated 32.8 tire. Saved weight, didn't go too high and saved some stress on the suspension. It has been 20k miles so far with no issues and that includes 2 weeks off road in Utah and Colorado camping in the back country.

 

Good luck and keep researching...

 

Tyler

[Dirt-Rado]

Not positive this is the right spot for this or if it’s allowed, but I’m upgrading to a Baja kits mid travel upper/lower arm set up and have a pair of uniball upper control arms and 285/70/17 Falken AT3’s I’ll be selling. The set up only has 22K miles and are in perfect shape.
Anyone interested let me know. Local pickup in south Orange County, CA only.
Also have a rancho shock w/ a leveling kit installed as well.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[JamesAT18]

There are two things you need to acknowledge when choosing to level. 
1. Determine the size of tire you want

        Leveling limits the size of tire you can have. The maximum recommendation is 33's but it may come at cost. There have been numerous reports of rubbing when fitting 33's on a leveled truck. There are ways around the rubbing but trimming of the wheel well is normally the action used. With 20 inch factory wheels, I would personally recommend nothing over 33x11.5 R20 or 285/55 R20. But again, that is the limit. 
2. Determine the ride comfort you want 
        Leveling kits commonly come in two forms. Spacers or Struts. Spacers are much easier to install and are most popular with road warriors. This is because of the lower cost, easier to locate, and also the comfort of the ride has less of an impact. This is normally the route dealerships take when installing "lifts" to their vehicles on the lots. Struts provide similar aesthetics but have several different aspects. The front struts are more difficult for install due to needing the spring being compressed which requires special tools. In addition, struts change the ride of your truck. It becomes more "stiff" which has it's pros and cons. Pros would be better turning with less body roll, less rebound when driving over bumps, longer life than stock struts. Cons would be a rougher ride as there is less compression to take the bump's impact. Many state when switching to struts they can feel every small pot hole or rock on the road. Both of these options will wear down your truck. However, the struts will have a less of a strain than the spacers. 

Highly recommended Leveling Kits:
Spacer: 2.25" ReadyLift Leveling Kit with Upper Control Arms  - Personal Recommendation for Spacers
Spacer: 2.5" Rough Country Leveling Kit

Strut: Bilstein 5100 - Personal Favorite and Bang4Buck
Strut: Bilstein 6112 - If I had the money...

Strut: Rancho Adjustable Height

 

Highly recommended Tires:
BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 - Most Popular

Toyo Open Country AT II
Nitto Terra Grappler G2
Cooper AT3 XLT - Recently redesigned AT3s

Cooper ATP - Discount Tire Exclusive 


And to back up Silverado, all these changes will affect your vehicle. Normally for the better, but you have to acknowledge the risks behind it also. 

[Jon A]

The stamped arms scare me and the reported failures already seem to indicate it's not without cause.  Personally if I had the stamped arms, I'd go no higher than the 1.8" Bilstein front shocks with no spacer.  Any more than that and I'd want new upper control arms.

[JamesAT18]

6 minutes ago, JamesAT18 said:

There are two things you need to acknowledge when choosing to level. 
1. Determine the size of tire you want

        Leveling limits the size of tire you can have. The maximum recommendation is 33's but it may come at cost. There have been numerous reports of rubbing when fitting 33's on a leveled truck. There are ways around the rubbing but trimming of the wheel well is normally the action used. With 20 inch factory wheels, I would personally recommend nothing over 33x11.5 R20 or 285/55 R20. But again, that is the limit. 
2. Determine the ride comfort you want 
        Leveling kits commonly come in two forms. Spacers or Struts. Spacers are much easier to install and are most popular with road warriors. This is because of the lower cost, easier to locate, and also the comfort of the ride has less of an impact. This is normally the route dealerships take when installing "lifts" to their vehicles on the lots. Struts provide similar aesthetics but have several different aspects. The front struts are more difficult for install due to needing the spring being compressed which requires special tools. In addition, struts change the ride of your truck. It becomes more "stiff" which has it's pros and cons. Pros would be better turning with less body roll, less rebound when driving over bumps, longer life than stock struts. Cons would be a rougher ride as there is less compression to take the bump's impact. Many state when switching to struts they can feel every small pot hole or rock on the road. Both of these options will wear down your truck. However, the struts will have a less of a strain than the spacers. 

Highly recommended Leveling Kits:
Spacer: 2.25" ReadyLift Leveling Kit with Upper Control Arms  - Personal Recommendation for Spacers
Spacer: 2.5" Rough Country Leveling Kit

Strut: Bilstein 5100 - Personal Favorite and Bang4Buck
Strut: Bilstein 6112 - If I had the money...

Strut: Rancho Adjustable Height

 

Highly recommended Tires:
BFGoodrich All-Terrain T/A KO2 - Most Popular

Toyo Open Country AT II
Nitto Terra Grappler G2
Cooper AT3 XLT - Recently redesigned AT3s

Cooper ATP - Discount Tire Exclusive 


And to back up Silverado, all these changes will affect your vehicle. Normally for the better, but you have to acknowledge the risks behind it also. 

Whooops, I replied to the wrong thread. But the information could be beneficial to you also. 

I have a 2018 and yet to do any lift. I want to and I've read a great amount of information on this site. I have 3 options that I'm personally considering. 

2.25 ReadyLift with UCAs

5100 Bilstein in addition to ReadyLift UCAs and .25 lower bracket. ~ 2.1" lift

6112 Bilsteins ~ 2" lift solo 

[BCMoto]

I like the rough country kit but is anyone running that right now?

[kylant]

22 hours ago, Denali34 said:

Even with the relocation bracket you had the trim height relearned? When I installed mine in the garage I was told having that bracket eliminates the needs to have it relearned since it didn't change any with the bracket. My truck rides fine. Did you notice any difference after having it relearned? 

Yes. I used the bracket from the Rough Country kit. They use the same bracket for both their 2 and 2.5" kits. So I figured I would just have the relearn done to be sure. I believe the ride is a touch better after the relearn, but it could just be a placebo affect as well