Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Dokus said if I paid to ship it to him, he would update and he would pay to ship it back, otherwise he would accept a return for refund.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Posted
18 minutes ago, woodyfriedt said:

Dokus said if I paid to ship it to him, he would update and he would pay to ship it back, otherwise he would accept a return for refund.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

Unfortunately that's your only option. He has the cheapest HMI's. Its kind of horseshit that he's making you pay return shipping for his mistake but in all honesty a flat rate small USPS box isn't very expensive (all the more reason for him to eat the cost of HIS mistake). 

 

I guess just live and learn? Good luck. 

 

 

Posted
On 8/14/2018 at 7:04 PM, th3magpi3 said:

Yes and Yes. You can tell which one is the HMI because the exploded image shows a circle which represents the little fan at the top of the face of the HMI. 

 

And like I said, it doesn't have to be that exact part number. And it's because most of the people selling at are just selling them from wrecks that they don't specify a VIN reprogram.

 

Most all replacement parts require VIN programming to work, especially radio components. GM has had a "Theftlock" feature for their radios since the 90's. TIS2WEB and similar scanner tools can be used to unlock the radio modules. 

 

My seller specifically said to make sure my part number matches exactly with the one I bought (84278527). 

 

Here's another seller stating it may have to be reprogrammed.

 

image.thumb.png.8a8ab836740d2b5d106340665388ccd5.png

 

But like I said, a subscription to tis2web with a programmer or a trip to the dealership should take care of you. 

 

I will have my radio hopefully tomorrow and will update everyone on my experience. Stay tuned. 

I’m kinda stuck on the theft lock thing on my module been researching this for days now. The dealership wouldn’t clear it for me. So I’m trying the tis2web thing

Posted
5 hours ago, rusty503 said:

I think I may have the solution to the no audio issue. It seems that Apple CarPlay has THREE volumes. One for Siri, one for Navigation and the other for music or maybe that was Phone. Let's start with Siri. Do something to make Siri reply to you. Try to make it something that will make her talk for awhile. WHILE she is talking, turn up the volume on the radio. It must be exactly when she is talking. If you don't get it just right, you will be changing the radio volume, not Siri. Another suggestion is to adjust the volume controls on your phone. In navigation try the same thing. I have also read that there is a setting in Apple Maps for audio. The settings if I remember are: No Volume, low, medium and loud. Someone else solved their issue by resetting the phone while connected to Carplay.

 

All this applies to Android Auto too.

 

The problems I have been reading in this thread are issues across the board with many other brands. It is issues with Carplay and Android Auto. NOT isolated to our trucks.

 

Do a web search about this and you will find pretty much the same. I used Siri no volume Carplay as my search terms. I don't have time right now to expound on this right now. Gotta run.

 

 

 

 

Have you upgraded the HMI in a 2014/15 K2xx and this worked?

This would be the solution for a vehicle that came stock with CP/AA. But we are attempting to upgrade older vehicles in an unconventional way and the rules no longer apply.

This works for my truck if using Bluetooth, USB (no CP), or on the old HMI. You can even see that the volume indicator is red rather than blue when making this adjustment. I wish this was the case with a swapped HMI, but while using CP/AA, it is not. It was one of the first things I attempted to do to fix the issue immediately after installing the new HMI.

Posted
36 minutes ago, Jan Balt said:

I’m kinda stuck on the theft lock thing on my module been researching this for days now. The dealership wouldn’t clear it for me. So I’m trying the tis2web thing

Look though this thread and contact Chris White about programming it to your VIN. 

Posted
Look though this thread and contact Chris White about programming it to your VIN. 
Or if you can wait a week or two I'll be offering the same service for a fraction of the price. If you need it ASAP I'd go with WAMS

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

Like Roscopcoletrain, I haven't purchased anything yet for this, but wish I had a way of helping to figure this out.

  • Like 1
Posted
Like Roscopcoletrain, I haven't purchased anything yet for this, but wish I had a way of helping to figure this out.
I'll be able to give you guys the exact part numbers to get or might even offer a complete package at an extremely discounted price. Like I said. Give me about 2 weeks. I'm just waiting for some final bits of hardware to come in and shipping isn't exactly lightning fast internationally.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  • Like 2
Posted
24 minutes ago, th3magpi3 said:

I'll be able to give you guys the exact part numbers to get or might even offer a complete package at an extremely discounted price. Like I said. Give me about 2 weeks. I'm just waiting for some final bits of hardware to come in and shipping isn't exactly lightning fast internationally.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
 

No rush!  I've survived this long without it.  I appreciate all the work you (and the others) are doing!

  • Like 1
Posted
You must be getting the same setup I saw that cost 1000 euros!
Not buying a setup. As far as I know there isn't a pre-fabbed setup for doing this. But building a programming bench yourself can easily clear $3000-$4000. There are a lot of parts involved and many are high priced!

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

Posted

So I'm shipping my HMI back to dokus to get updated. There really aren't any better deals out there, even with a second shipping charge. Wish me luck.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Posted
3 minutes ago, woodyfriedt said:

So I'm shipping my HMI back to dokus to get updated. There really aren't any better deals out there, even with a second shipping charge. Wish me luck.

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk
 

You're exactly right. Nobody comes close to his price. 

Posted

So how is shipping going to be to get our module(s) to Canada and back? I had an e-mail out to Chris and haven't heard a peep yet.

Posted
I noticed on that YouTube video the guy had the shop icon and I didn’t. Makes me wonder if the HMI would’ve been updated that Siri would’ve work after getting my radio updated. It did for the OP of the video. 

From what I found out about this...the shop icon came out in I believe 2018. If you opt for or get the shop icon, you have to buy the Pandora app. Prior to that, it was standard and free.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I’m definitely interested to hear the end result here. 
    • My 2025 Silverado 1500 had to receive a brand-new engine (long block) under warranty last month at only around 16,500 miles. Before the replacement, the truck repeatedly displayed "Engine Oil Level Low" warnings, even though the Oil Life Monitor still showed around 50% remaining after about 6,000 miles since my last oil change. After seeing the warning several times, I checked the dipstick with the engine cold, and the oil level was completely normal. The next day, the message escalated to "Add Engine Oil." At first, I assumed it was just a faulty oil level sensor, so I brought the truck to the dealership. After inspecting the engine, they found internal cylinder wall scoring and ultimately replaced the entire long block under warranty. Before this happened, I was planning to install a 4-inch lift and suspension upgrade on my truck. After needing a new engine at just 16,500 miles, I honestly don't see the point anymore. I also contacted GM to ask whether my vehicle qualified for a buyback, but I was informed that it does not at this time. Anyway, this experience has left me with serious concerns about the long-term reliability of this engine. I sincerely hope NHTSA expands the current investigation or recall to include 2025 model and performs a thorough inspection of affected vehicles. My biggest concern is that these engines may fail shortly after the powertrain warranty expires. If GM truly stands behind this engine, then at the very least, please consider extending the powertrain warranty to 10 years for affected owners. That would go a long way toward restoring customer confidence.
    • Without exception but then I'm the odd duck, right? I know what goes into that test, how it is calculated and thus how to beat it. But EPA values are often not beaten by the general public and the government has in past years adjusted the means and methods to come to those values to more closely approximate "Joe Average".    The only real trick to beating that EPA average is don't drive like "Joe Average".    It's the same method you used to profit from "Economic Migration" and in doing so beat the 'stats'. But you, like me, are not "Joe Average".     The thing you don't seem to grasp is this "Purchasing Power Index" isn't forward looking. It doesn't predict what it going to be but looks backward and states what it was. They are not telling us what the THINK, they are telling us what they MEASURED. Example:    Wife says "I'm going to lose 40 pounds by Christmas". May she does, maybe she doesn't but the doctors office who weighed her when she made that statement and again at Christmas only REPORTS what the RESULT was. You and I can banter about what was possible and what aunt Tilly did till the cows come home but the result is the result. Arguing otherwise is.....irrational. That's all I'm saying. This isn't about:      What you are calling a 'Statistic' is a RESULT not a CALCUATION and as a result the RULE. Like gravity as a rule, it can not be broken. 
    • Just wanted to say thank you for posting this. Years later, your thread is still helping Silverado owners.   I bought my 2025 Silverado 1500 in January 2025, and I've had what feels like the exact same rattle since day one. After reading your findings, I believe my truck has the same issue with the cable carrier contacting the rear sliding window. To be honest, I had pretty much given up on pursuing the issue. It wasn't until I recently drove another brand's pickup that I realized just how quiet their cabin was—and how noisy mine has been all along. On my truck, the rattle happens on almost any paved road, gets even worse on rougher pavement, and I can even hear it during braking and acceleration.   I actually referenced your thread when submitting my case to GM, hoping they'll recognize this as a recurring issue instead of treating it as an isolated incident. The reason I reached out to GM first is because my dealership told me they would need to keep the truck for at least two days just to diagnose the problem. I was concerned that even after two days, they still might not be able to identify the source of the rattle before giving the truck back to me. I had also asked a few dealerships about this issue during previous service visits, but none of them seemed to know what was causing it or had a solution. That's why I decided to contact GM directly first, hoping they might already have an official repair procedure or guidance for this issue.   I also hope GM eventually comes up with an official fix for this problem. I have a feeling there are many Silverado owners experiencing the same rattle, but most either choose to live with it or simply don't know what the cause is.   Really appreciate you taking the time to document your diagnosis. Your post is still making a difference years later.
    • I have 2 choices. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...