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LS Engine swap into GM 2014-2018 1500 Truck


ChevyRoofer

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Posted
6 hours ago, crushNchowda said:

There's a gen V 6.2 & 5.3 engine sierra/silverado 2014+ group on Fbook. I check in from time to time.....definitely not common up in new england, but I see a WHOLE LOT of guys showing off their blown or turbocharged 6.2 & 5.3 trucks, all on stock tranny (not converters usually), making crazy power reliably. Nearly identical version of the ecotec 6.2 makes 460bhp in the vette. Intake/Headers/cam/tune will put you @ 550bhp if you go big on the cam & if you want to touch the heads w/ a port/polish mill job or swap for some aftermarket higher flowing ones ABSOLUTELY will meet/exceed your goals - however a stalled/cammed/geared/lifted truck is not exactly what I'd consider "DD" friendly.....a supercharger on the other hand? Like I & others have said - you could EASILY exceed your goals by doing NOTHING other than bolting on a supercharger & getting a tune. I mean NOTHING. You can leave the stock AFM crap in place still exceed that goal & just twiddle your thumbs until you start dropping lifters & grenade the motor (would happen stock or modded makes no diff) - or you do a DOD delete cam swap @ same time. You wouldn't have to touch the headers/exhaust/intake nothing else & make that power, so no idea why you'd wanna reverse engineer a truck in order to accommodate a phased out old tech LS3 motor?

 

 

FWIW - I'd go w/ a crate cammed LS3 if I was building out a restomod K blazer/C10 or a Bronco etc. You could do something like that w/ all the best technology best suspension custom paint job & decent interior essentially custom new from the ground up for less $$$ than a new loaded up 1/2 ton. And since you (and many of us out there) will mod our trucks anyhow, then wtf does a "new" truck matter when the warranty will be null & void? Food for thought.

 

 

LASTLY - if you ARE dead set on an old gen dated old tech Chevy crate motor - FTW go big or go home man - you have a huge engine bay & a 10k payload capacity 6000 lb 1/2 ton right? Big block baby. zz572 or zz720 or 454 etc.

 

Am I missing something here? Many guys w/ vettes would KILL to be able to stuff such a big heavy N/A bullet proof motor in their rides - too big & makes em too nose heavy.

 

IMO - that would be a badass build worth doing - not an LS3

 

You said 460hp in the vette and 550hp cammed with bolt ons.

 

that is way too low.

 

they make about 400whp stock, and about 560-600whp cammed and bolt ons (600 needs e85) Thats about 700hp crank.

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Posted

"That's impossible" is about where I start salivating. Nothing within the framework of physics is impossible. Some things are just a bit more difficult.

 

Posted
12 hours ago, ChevyRoofer said:

 

 

Hard to tell who is just speculating and who knows whether this would work.

 

Here's the specific engine I'm looking at.

 

https://www.texas-speed.com/p-3582-tsp-376-cid-590-hp-ls3-turn-key-package.aspx

 

The 525/LS does sound nice though.  Half the price.

First of all, google Canbus. Check out the wiki page.

 

here’s are your options to install an LS motor

 

a)easiest way, rip out all the electronics, install your new motor and trans. The only thing that will work in your car is your throttle, brakes, and unassisted steering.

 

b)build it with something like motec. Every electronic piece will be aftermarket including all your gauges. It will look like a race car inside.

 

C) do A and rip out the entire dash and install one from an older truck. If you’re good with wiring you can get some of your stuff working again.

 

D) go get yourself a phd in electrical engineering and computer programming. Then either spend 100’s of hours rewiring and reprogramming almost every switch and function in the truck and adapting it to work with the older system. Or use your money you made with your phd and pay a team of guys well over $100k to do it.

 

E)realize this is the worst idea ever when there is a perfectly good 6.2 from the factory that makes more power and is more efficient. It would be less labor to work at minimum wage and pay for a built 416 long block and twin 88mm turbos with a hi-rise instake and secondary port injectors, and then buy them again when they blow up from doing half mile runs at 1500whp.

 

 

Posted
12 hours ago, truckguy82 said:

You said 460hp in the vette and 550hp cammed with bolt ons.

 

that is way too low.

 

they make about 400whp stock, and about 560-600whp cammed and bolt ons (600 needs e85) Thats about 700hp crank.

I said a nearly identical motor in the vette makes 460BHP - also that he could EASILY (w/ the caps effect ;-)) exceed his goal of 550+bhp in a 6.2 OR 5.3 truck w/ just a SC, cam+headers+intake+tune would get him there w/ the 6.2 as well. Course we're all talking HP @ the crank here initially, you will lose helluvalot more power in a fulls size auto 4wd p/u than a short wheelbase manual tranny rwd transaxle equipped vette. My C5z typically reflects about 10-12% parasitic loss give or take on a conservative mustang dyno, my A4 GTO was like 20-22%, my A6 G8 GT like 18-20%, manual camaros w/ driveshafts = 14-17%, from my experience (not sure how much difference an A8 or now A10 will make) but the 6 speed trucks were losing like 22-30% depending on dyno & configuration.

 

Bottom line though.......obviously OP's goal is to build a powerful, fast, but also reliable/sturdy DD modded truck. Bang for the buck the smartest thing is to slap a SC on it. Next would be the typical H/C/I + tune bolt ons, if you wanted to go through the hassle/expense of a full engine swap I would go the route I suggested personally especially since the truck platform is more than enough to support it - a big block - you can order w/ 600+ hp to begin w/ stock form bullet proof w/ a warranty.

 

 What is the difference in price for a turnkey ZZ 454 or 572 big block & a hot cam LS3? 

Posted
On ‎9‎/‎26‎/‎2018 at 9:25 PM, SILVER SLED said:

Even simpler is an almost plug and play 535hp GM lt1.  It’s just a stock lt1 with GMs hot cam.  Drop it in and use all current connections and existing ecm, just have it tuned.  I know you said you didn’t want direct injection, but....

nah, even simpler (ie: MUCH simpler & already pointed out) - just cam the damn 6.2 already in the truck - yank the AFM hardware, new plugs/wires & a cam package, tuned w/ an intake/headers & a stall = badass & 550bhp attainable.

 

Theres not that much different between the 6.2 ectotec & an LT1 to begin w/ - only upside I see w/ an engine swap is that the engine itself would still have a factory warranty...although I suppose every damn other shred of a warranty remaining on the truck would thus be voided so kinda a catch 22 situation as far as that goes.

Posted

For many years I’ve made vehicles go fast, diesel or gas. I realized after awhile it doesn’t have to expensive if you don’t want it to be. In the eighties I had 40K to make a 74 Impala fast and pretty. I went classic for a while the last one a 64 elcamino. I didn’t enjoy it I had too much money in it. This was before I discovered collector car insurance. My latest and last, 92 Chevy lowered truck. Total cost of ownership in eight years 10K. The guy I bought it from showed me recipes for 40K. Fast, fun, easy to maintain. Can’t imagine what the op will have in his when he’s through.


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Posted
On 9/27/2018 at 12:32 AM, Grumpy Bear said:

"That's impossible" is about where I start salivating. Nothing within the framework of physics is impossible. Some things are just a bit more difficult.

 

X2 on that, as long as it stays in my budget.  Currently waiting on a reply from Texas Speed & Performance.

 

56 minutes ago, crushNchowda said:

nah, even simpler (ie: MUCH simpler & already pointed out) - just cam the damn 6.2 already in the truck - yank the AFM hardware, new plugs/wires & a cam package, tuned w/ an intake/headers & a stall = badass & 550bhp attainable.

 

Theres not that much different between the 6.2 ectotec & an LT1 to begin w/ - only upside I see w/ an engine swap is that the engine itself would still have a factory warranty...although I suppose every damn other shred of a warranty remaining on the truck would thus be voided so kinda a catch 22 situation as far as that goes.

The 6.2 will be option #2 if my LS option doesn't work.

 

On 9/28/2018 at 4:24 PM, Centex14 said:

https://www.karlperformanceparts.com/p/19201334-chevrolet-performance-zz572-720r-720-hp-deluxe-crate-engine/1887?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3Zvth9He3QIVwrfACh0RHAuqEAQYAiABEgKJuPD_BwE

 

$15,000 for the carbureted 572.

 

 

2014 z71 LTZ

Volant Intake

Borla Exhaust

Diablo

Bilstein 5100

Rough Country Level

 

LOL that's definitely not a daily driver setup.  Won't be able to get my hands on race fuel either.  But a beauty of an engine for sure.

 

34 minutes ago, KARNUT said:

For many years I’ve made vehicles go fast, diesel or gas. I realized after awhile it doesn’t have to expensive if you don’t want it to be. In the eighties I had 40K to make a 74 Impala fast and pretty. I went classic for a while the last one a 64 elcamino. I didn’t enjoy it I had too much money in it. This was before I discovered collector car insurance. My latest and last, 92 Chevy lowered truck. Total cost of ownership in eight years 10K. The guy I bought it from showed me recipes for 40K. Fast, fun, easy to maintain. Can’t imagine what the op will have in his when he’s through.


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I don't really see how this pertains to anything?  We all have different spending habits, and hopefully they're relative to the amount of income you generate.  Some people just have higher incomes and can accommodate more than others.

 

I chose building a GM truck from the ground up essentially over buying a 2018 Ford Raptor/2014-2015 Chevy Reaper.

 

Engine/Transmission work will be done by a shop, but I'll be doing everything else myself.

Posted
I don't really see how this pertains to anything?  We all have different spending habits, and hopefully they're relative to the amount of income you generate.  Some people just have higher incomes and can accommodate more than others.

 

I chose building a GM truck from the ground up essentially over buying a 2018 Ford Raptor/2014-2015 Chevy Reaper.

 

Engine/Transmission work will be done by a shop, but I'll be doing everything else myself.

My budget was unlimited mostly. I retired at 58 from an ongoing family business. My budget, I could drive a Lexus, I drive a Camry. I try to express my experiences to get people to think about options. I had to drive trucks for my business, non stock. I modified them all. All write offs. Cars, I’ve owned every performance brand of the big three since the 60s, most daily drivers for the wife. Some foreign too. I don’t care what you do really. Someone may think a moment and figure hummmm, maybe I’ll buy that Texas Edition for the low 30s. Stick a blower on it a gear. Run really good be reliable and fun. The money they saved could be for repairs if something happens. I’ve been on both sides expense wise, I try to be thrifty. Bang for the buck. Keep us posted. If you end up in Baytown, maybe I’ll bring my truck or my brothers little red truck or a pretty good running diesel or two.

 

 

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Posted

My first truck was a diesel and I dropped nearly 40k on it making it fast.  In the end I took a huge loss on it.  These days I'm getting to the point where I'm tired of spending money to make slow things fast.  I'll just buy the already fast thing and make it faster.  Usually buying the already fast thing means the factory has already done the upgrades needed to make it reliable under higher power.  I'd much rather swap a blower pulley and tune than have to do pistons and a transmission and fuel system and install and tune. If I get the desire to tinker on something I've got a 77 bronco in the shop I can play with to my hearts content.  

Posted
3 hours ago, crushNchowda said:

nah, even simpler (ie: MUCH simpler & already pointed out) - just cam the damn 6.2 already in the truck - yank the AFM hardware, new plugs/wires & a cam package, tuned w/ an intake/headers & a stall = badass & 550bhp attainable.

 

Theres not that much different between the 6.2 ectotec & an LT1 to begin w/ - only upside I see w/ an engine swap is that the engine itself would still have a factory warranty...although I suppose every damn other shred of a warranty remaining on the truck would thus be voided so kinda a catch 22 situation as far as that goes.

It sure would be if there was a 6.2 in the truck to begin with.

Posted
9 minutes ago, SILVER SLED said:

It sure would be if there was a 6.2 in the truck to begin with.

The OP has a 2017 GM truck (according to his sig) but his post was regarding a whole new ground up build w/ a '14+ truck - he didn't specify 5.3 or 6.2 b/c he hasn't bought the truck yet - at least that's how I read it.

 

 

Posted

In some states if he sticks to the original plan emission inspection will be a problem. That’s where a blower on the original engine pays off. As far as daily driver reliability that controlled by the right foot. I’ve done a few gas, they last just as long as stock. Gas mileage not much difference. Adding more HP pulley changing, tuning,simple. Inspection no problem.


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Posted
20 hours ago, crushNchowda said:

The OP has a 2017 GM truck (according to his sig) but his post was regarding a whole new ground up build w/ a '14+ truck - he didn't specify 5.3 or 6.2 b/c he hasn't bought the truck yet - at least that's how I read it.

 

 

Well I actually just got word back that it's going to be a lot easier like everyone has said to just use a LT1 motor with Gen V trucks and LS Motor with Gen IV.

 

So best bet is for me to look for a used 2016 Sierra with a 6.2L and take the engine apart and upgrade the internals and everything else I'm looking at doing.

20 hours ago, KARNUT said:

In some states if he sticks to the original plan emission inspection will be a problem. That’s where a blower on the original engine pays off. As far as daily driver reliability that controlled by the right foot. I’ve done a few gas, they last just as long as stock. Gas mileage not much difference. Adding more HP pulley changing, tuning,simple. Inspection no problem.


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Again, just looking for naturally aspirated V8 - no forced induction. 

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