Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

Anyone have any ideas how to speed up the dealership? I have a shake at 70-80 and they say they've never had one with this issue. I see a lot of people getting new tires or drive lines. How can I speed up the process of new tires as I know they will want to mess with everything else first

It does not surprise me one bit that so many dealerships will pretend that they never heard of this problem. Suggest you go to several dealers and find one which will be most receptive to working with you to resolve the problem.

Edited by pm26
Posted

Is your truck an "All Star" or "All Shake" edition? :crackup:

I don't know if that makes me laugh or angry lol. Just because its so true. All shake is about right. The center console goes crazy
Posted

GM is offering me a new 2015 LTZ with 500 miles to replace my vibrating 2014 LT with 8000. My payment will stay the same.

 

Also, the new one does not have a bad vibration at this time. Should I agree to the trade?

If that's true I'd be all over it
Posted

They are offering me msrp on my 2014 for trade in and I'm financing the difference of the ltz which is equal to what I've already paid during the 10 months I've owned the Lt. My loan will start over from scratch but my payment will stay the same.

 

The other option is to hold out for a refund.

 

Should I take the ltz and hope it remains vibrateless or hold out for a refund?

Posted

They are offering me msrp on my 2014 for trade in and I'm financing the difference of the ltz which is equal to what I've already paid during the 10 months I've owned the Lt. My loan will start over from scratch but my payment will stay the same.

 

The other option is to hold out for a refund.

 

Should I take the ltz and hope it remains vibrateless or hold out for a refund?

 

Check your PM. This is almost identical to the deal i got on mine 10 months ago.

Posted

Check your PM. This is almost identical to the deal i got on mine 10 months ago.

How do you get these deals? How many times do you have to take your truck in for the same issue? Do you have to contact GM or did the dealer offer this?
Posted

Looks like my issue is about 95% resolved . after countless times at the dealership and multiple different dealerships they finally broke down and swapped the tires again .... ive had 6 new tires on this truck due to the goodyears being "defective" ...they put bridgestone tires on it this time like some denalis come with and its running pretty good now . drove it roughly 30 miles and smooth as can be around 73-85 mph . I believe if GM would stop using the junk goodyear tires and put something good on them this issue would be gone !

As soon as they (GM) bought back my first 14, I put Nitto Terra Grapplers on the replacement i think 4 days after i drove it off the lot.

Posted

How do you get these deals? How many times do you have to take your truck in for the same issue? Do you have to contact GM or did the dealer offer this?

You need to have the dealer try to fix it first. My dealer replaced 3 tires with new ones, took tires off another 14 on the lot, half a dozen tire balancing attempts, 3 different drive shafts, engine shims, and a complete rear end before they said they couldn't fix it and would help me get the "assistance" to buy a different vehicle. The dealer is your friend when it comes to situations like this. If you're an @$$ they probably wont go to bat for you. I went straight to my dealerships general manager and he got it done. Total time for the assistance approval period was less than a week after i had sufficient service records to support the assistance. I really couldn't be happier with my 2nd truck. I do recommend putting new tires on it as soon as you leave the dealer though..

Posted

They are offering me msrp on my 2014 for trade in and I'm financing the difference of the ltz which is equal to what I've already paid during the 10 months I've owned the Lt. My loan will start over from scratch but my payment will stay the same.

 

The other option is to hold out for a refund.

 

Should I take the ltz and hope it remains vibrateless or hold out for a refund?

I would take it and run with it - this is exactly what I did on mine as well. Refinanced the new one at a lower rate and same payment. If you wait for a refund they will nickel and dime you on mileage etc and drag it out. I was so done with mine I took the deal and have moved on with my life and couldn't be more pleased. The new one has a few issues but nothing that isn't livable!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

I would take it and run with it - this is exactly what I did on mine as well. Refinanced the new one at a lower rate and same payment. If you wait for a refund they will nickel and dime you on mileage etc and drag it out. I was so done with mine I took the deal and have moved on with my life and couldn't be more pleased. The new one has a few issues but nothing that isn't livable!

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Still the best lookin trucks on the road IMO as well.

Posted

You need to have the dealer try to fix it first. My dealer replaced 3 tires with new ones, took tires off another 14 on the lot, half a dozen tire balancing attempts, 3 different drive shafts, engine shims, and a complete rear end before they said they couldn't fix it and would help me get the "assistance" to buy a different vehicle. The dealer is your friend when it comes to situations like this. If you're an @$$ they probably wont go to bat for you. I went straight to my dealerships general manager and he got it done. Total time for the assistance approval period was less than a week after i had sufficient service records to support the assistance. I really couldn't be happier with my 2nd truck. I do recommend putting new tires on it as soon as you leave the dealer though..

I have my first vibration appointment next week so we will see what they do
Posted

I had read that before. Very enlightening. I must say, that the "reduced" runout limit on the driveshaft of 0.50" (1/2 an inch) is massive, in my opinion. That's preposterous! No wonder these this have a vibration. I can't even imagine what the "normal" spec is. Now, if they had said 50 thou (0.050"), then maybe I could believe that.

 

That document must have a typo in it. 1/2" would shake like crazy, and you would see that wobbling like mad!

Posted

It's so sad to see more and more trucks being added to the list :tear:

 

Just think of the people who have not taken the time to search this issue

out, like I did until the service manager stated " Don't believe everything you read

on the internet " I was a member here long before this issue came up on the '14

Silverado. and the best information I received was from this very site !

 

I strongly can not stress how very important it is to have a semi calm attitude with

your dealer, it was his persistence with GM that kept my name on the top of GM's

list and my nice but constant calling GM customer service to make them aware I was

in no way accept anything less then what was fair, my case took a bit longer because

of the items I added, and I gave GM six weeks to produce a truck that did not vibrate

or delay on the up shifts or have excessive injector noise.

 

It was a sad day for me when I finally realized that GM had no interest in keeping

me a GM customer. and I've moved on and I'm glad that I've been able to help

quite a few people with this issue.

 

This vibration issue is snow balling at a very extreme rate, and I see nothing good

coming from it until GM acknowledges their engineering mistake and takes care of

it's customers in the same good faith that people purchased the trucks to begin with.

 

All in all, ' What goes around will come around ' it's just a matter of time !

  • Like 3

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I had skimmed through that article when you posted the link and honestly I felt rather defeated in a sense and realized that all these years in changing oil that in fact putting in what I was told was a good quality oil was probably not filtered as well as it should be although the filter put on the engine would be what ( as long as it never went into bypass mode ) would be the final filtering of the new oil that the engine components would first see, but then the filtering media itself is not up to par to what is ideal because a full flow filter would be too restrictive to filter fine enough for the engines best outcome in the long run. Only one of our tractors over the years which was a Versatile with a 855 Cummins had a separate bypass filter, some engine manufacturers did spec a partial bypass system within the main oil filter but I don't believe any other trucks or equipment I was servicing used such a filter. No doubt a product like the Amsoil bypass system is of benefit as long as nothing goes sideways with the extra plumbing and filter such as a rupture/leak that could cause the oil to pump out of the engine ( yes that Versatile had a remote canister with hoses routed to it as well ). With the idiot egr system on a diesel and as a result forcing a lot more soot into the oil, that certainly isn't helping the diesel engines cause or as you pointed out the GDI engine issue with creating more soot and aside from having a fancy secondary filtering system, changing the oil more often helping lower the total soot load.     So oil manufacturing and the end product is not something one can control and I wonder if there are specs on what various oil packaging companies produce in particle count or size. As to the filtering, if the OEM is not designing a filter size and spec that is really what it could be, they too are short changing the end user and so what is the answer. Of course as you say the oil side can only do so much if the air side isn't keeping up its end of the picture and air filters are only so efficient and if in a dusty environment such as farm or construction or driving gravel roads there is a lot of dirt to filter out and some of that ends up into the air stream.    Of course the irony in places like where I am where they dump the salt on the highways but also will mix in some calcium or outright pure calcium for problem road area's, or using calcium as dust control on gravel roads, the vehicle that gets used in that environment may rust out before a properly engineered engine and maintenance finally wears out so one has to face that reality in the rust belt. 
    • Has anyone run these on their 2500?
    • have you stuck with dealer oil changes since then? I made the same switch after getting tired of crawling around under the truck, but I’ve found some dealers are way better than others about getting you in quickly. Curious if yours has been good about scheduling or if you’ve had to look elsewhere for quicker turnaround.
    • Thank you.   I am set on a 3.0 Duramax as my previous truck with a Ford Ecoboost had just as many, if not more, "common" issues.  Cam phasers, timing chain issues, 10-speed valve body and CDF drum, emissions issues, etc.  So I figured, why not get 2x the fuel mileage (these things got 27+mpg on every mixed city/highway test drive I put them through) and better towing capability with resale value to boot?   My minimum, shortest trip will be 50 miles 1-way and I regularly go out of state with a travel trailer.  I'm planning on using this for a marketing/event promotion business also, which would require regular towing of trailers for bands, DJs, sound and lighting gear, along with my personal camera gear for filming events.   Looked at other trucks in the $30k+ price range but the issues seem to be everywhere, plus too many with gaudy mods.  I'm literally sticking with RWD trucks because they tend to be actually used as trucks, vs. the 4x4 models I've seen with unsafe lifts, huge tires, and general mods that would affect reliability (I'm wondering if some of them were tuned, hence the aggressive throttle response and hard shifting).   So my goal is to find a stock, 3.0 with 1 or 2 owners, in good physical condition, and decently well maintained.  Can't seem to find that up here, everything in the $27-30k range has had multiple owners, smoke smell, issues, or body damage.  Or the ridiculously modified trucks with 80k miles for under $27k but lots of problems...
    • That’s pretty tough Grumpy. I reread the previous few posts. They all reference oil changes. Much like your last thread. In my humble opinion it keeps things interesting.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...