Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Oh my goodness, GM Customer service stepped in on this thread again.

Either it's someone new or they just want to increase their post count :nopity:

This is the part I love " This is not what you should expect after purchasing a new 2015 Silverado LT. " :throwup:

  • Like 1
Posted

My truck still sits at the dealer as of today. Today makes their 10th day and according to Floridas lemon law they only have 10 days to repair the truck on this final attempt or GM owes me a replace/repurchase! Should be interesting to see what happens from here.

Posted

How sure is everybody that their brake rotors are properly balanced? I have noted in one of my previous posts that I do not see any signs of balancing on many brand new aftermarket rotors that I looked at. The second concern is, even if the OEM rotors appear to have been balanced, how do you know they are balanced correctly? With these parts being made almost exclusively in third world countries these days, how do we know someone does not just go through the motions of grinding off some metal to make it look like the rotors have been balanced? If you have unbalanced or badly balanced brake rotors, the only way you can correct that is by balancing the wheels on the truck or getting the rotors checked for balance in a shop that has equipment for this. With larger wheel sizes, the rotors are getting bigger and heavier, so a badly balanced or unbalanced rotor could cause serious vibration issues even with perfectly balanced wheels/tires.

An out of balance brake rotor does not explain why the vibration seems to come and go, even at a given speed. Some folks report the vibration is gone for a day of two, then returns. Some folks report the vehicle was fine for several thousand miles when they first got it, then the vibration developed. Any out of balance will show up all the time, even if only at a given speed. In fact, pure mass unbalance will always be present, regardless of speed, and show up as a simple multiple of speed. The forces generated will vary with the square of the speed, so at low speeds the forces will be small, and likely not felt by the occupants. As the speed increases, so does the frequency and more importantly, so does the amplitude of the forces generated. With simple mass unbalance, this will continue as speed continues.

 

If there is some kind of resonance, then things can get complicated. A small amount of unbalance, even so small it won't be felt at any speed,can set off a resonance at the natural frequency of whatever it is that is going to resonant. That only happens at, or near, the natural frequency. And the resulting forces can be very, very high. Usually,when the speed is further increased, the resonance condition subsides and things get smooth again. That is how you can tell the difference between a resonance and a simple mass unbalance.

 

Of course, it can get even more complicated as the mass unbalance can have a harmonic component that can excite the resonance multiple times on the way up in speed. And, there can be multiple natural frequencies (modes) that can get resonant at different speeds. So, what could be a series of multiple resonances could appear to be simple mass unbalance. Only a highly trained vibration analyst would likely diagnosis such a condition and I doubt the average technician at a car dealership has that kind of training. So, we appear to be stuck with GM swapping out tires, over and over. Waste of time.....

 

Go for it. Have your rotors removed and balanced at a driveline shop. I'm sure any driveline shop that does driveshafts can do rotors. If not, take them to an industrial machinery repair shop that has a dynamic balancing machine. They will usually have a wide selection of arbors and mandrels to balance a whole host of rotating parts and I'm sure a brake rotor would be no problem to do.

Posted

Hello everyone, This is my first post after being a lurker for a while. Just bought a 2015 Silverado 1500 with a 5.3 double cab short box with the 18 inch rims and Good Year "off road" tires. Add me to the list of vibrations. It started with around 400 miles or so. I also have some shuddering in 2-3 and 3-4 upshifts as well as the RPMs fluctuate up and down by a few hundred RPMs while at moderate acceleration under a light load. The tach literally jumps up and down and it buck and jerks while it is happening. I haven't gotten it to the dealership yet with the holidays but will be getting it in next week to see where it lands me. I'm thinking it might all be related to the torque converter. I am now at 1200 miles and 2 1/2 weeks of ownership. I will update after the dealership checks it out.

Posted

Oh my goodness, GM Customer service stepped in on this thread again.

OK Now we know they are here so what's keeping them from telling us what's the problem with the vibs trucks?? I sure there is more to tell! If you build them you should tell them!!
Posted

^^^^ That is why I have my tires trued AND high speed balanced ON the truck. they use a strobe. Takes care of all rotating mass such as rotors. Have also, over time, had the shop tell me a tire was too far out of round to be trued or was not running true. Took the tires back to discount and they said yep and replaced the tires.

Posted (edited)

We are going to take a massive hit on these trucks. My story, bought my 14 Sil in Feb of 14, perfect truck,no problems what so ever, wish I would have kept it. Sticker, $49,300. Traded it in May of 15 for another Sil, sticker, $54,200, paid $7,500 diff. Started vibrating on way to California. 150 miles into a 3800 mile trip.After a 4 month battle and thanks to my local dealer got a 15 Sierra, sticker $54, 600. I paid sticker differnce only plus tax, $425. It is now vibrating and I am about fed up with the whole process. My dealer is gone for 2 weeks on vacation so I thought I'll trade for a F150. F150 sticker, $56,000. Knew I would take a hit but felt it was worth it if I could get out of the vibrations that put my hands to sleep after 45 minutes of driving. Ford Dealer wants $14,500. I could tell, they really didn't want it. Now I wait for my GM dealer to get back, I would have paid $9K to get out of this but $14,500 is just to much to swallow. I haven't even made my first payment on the Sierra yet! With no solution in sight what are these going to be worth in another year as more and more vibrators hit the market?

?

Edited by paxtonman
Posted

We are going to take a massive hit on these trucks. My story, bought my 14 Sil in Feb of 14, perfect truck,no problems what so ever, wish I would have kept it. Sticker, $49,300. Traded it in May of 15 for another Sil, sticker, $54,200, paid $7,500 diff. Started vibrating on way to California. 150 miles into a 3800 mile trip.After a 4 month battle and thanks to my local dealer got a 15 Sierra, sticker $54, 600. I paid sticker differnce only plus tax, $425. It is now vibrating and I am about fed up with the whole process. My dealer is gone for 2 weeks on vacation so I thought I'll trade for a F150. F150 sticker, $56,000. Knew I would take a hit but felt it was worth it if I could get out of the vibrations that put my hands to sleep after 45 minutes of driving. Ford Dealer wants $14,500. I could tell, they really didn't want it. Now I wait for my GM dealer to get back, I would have paid $9K to get out of this but $14,500 is just to much to swallow. I haven't even made my first payment on the Sierra yet! With no solution in sight what are these going to be worth in another year as more and more vibrators hit the market?

?

Take any brand new truck to a competing dealer shortly after purchase and try and trade it in. Unless it's some local area hot seller they can unload quickly they will lowball you to death...It's how they make money lol. I had a new GM truck quite a long time ago (2001 or so) and we tried to dump it when it was about 11 months old... paid around 36K for it and with about 6000 miles they offered us 19000...... It's life lol.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Posted

We are going to take a massive hit on these trucks. My story, bought my 14 Sil in Feb of 14, perfect truck,no problems what so ever, wish I would have kept it. Sticker, $49,300. Traded it in May of 15 for another Sil, sticker, $54,200, paid $7,500 diff. Started vibrating on way to California. 150 miles into a 3800 mile trip.After a 4 month battle and thanks to my local dealer got a 15 Sierra, sticker $54, 600. I paid sticker differnce only plus tax, $425. It is now vibrating and I am about fed up with the whole process. My dealer is gone for 2 weeks on vacation so I thought I'll trade for a F150. F150 sticker, $56,000. Knew I would take a hit but felt it was worth it if I could get out of the vibrations that put my hands to sleep after 45 minutes of driving. Ford Dealer wants $14,500. I could tell, they really didn't want it. Now I wait for my GM dealer to get back, I would have paid $9K to get out of this but $14,500 is just to much to swallow. I haven't even made my first payment on the Sierra yet! With no solution in sight what are these going to be worth in another year as more and more vibrators hit the market?

?

Start a lemon law buy back against GM. If they have to purchase 1000 trucks back at 47k+ a pop, that will get their attention real quick. There are consumer laws that are out there to protect you, USE THEM! Best of all is GM will have to pay your legal fees.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Take any brand new truck to a competing dealer shortly after purchase and try and trade it in. Unless it's some local area hot seller they can unload quickly they will lowball you to death...It's how they make money lol. I had a new GM truck quite a long time ago (2001 or so) and we tried to dump it when it was about 11 months old... paid around 36K for it and with about 6000 miles they offered us 19000...... It's life lol.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

About 25 years ago dealers were happy to make $1000 on a used car or truck. Now they are trying to make $ 5000 or more, so they will try to low ball everyone on trade. Florida is probably one of the worst states to trade in a nice car or truck, as local dealers take advantage of older people and literally try to steal their trades. In fact, dealers make a lot more money on late model used cars and trucks than on new ones. I remember that shortly after i got my '09 Impala LTZ (sticker $31,300), I tried to see how much I could get on trade for a new Hyundai Genesis. I was offered $ 14k for a one year old car in mint condition with 4k miles on it . And it did not have any vibration issues or any issues at all, no collision history, and no warranty repair history. And the dealer told me that he had to wholesale the car, then proceeded to call several used car dealers to get their offers. Just what kind of a car dealer wholesales 1 year old traded car with 4k miles? What exactly do they sell on their lots as used cars then? Is Hyundai such a great make compared to Chevy that he should have treated my car like this? BS, he was just trying to rip me off. If I had taken his offer, my car would have been on his lot the next day with asking price of $ 20k or more. Needless to say, I walked away. I do not mind if the dealer makes a reasonable profit (say $1500 to $ 2000) on a used car, but $ 6k? Yes, the retail price on that Impala was about $ 20k to $21k at that time. I still have the Impala, 97k miles on it, practically trouble free, except for some HVAC actuators which I replaced myself for about $ 60.

Edited by pm26
Posted

Take any brand new truck to a competing dealer shortly after purchase and try and trade it in. Unless it's some local area hot seller they can unload quickly they will lowball you to death...It's how they make money lol. I had a new GM truck quite a long time ago (2001 or so) and we tried to dump it when it was about 11 months old... paid around 36K for it and with about 6000 miles they offered us 19000...... It's life lol.

 

Sent from my SM-G900W8 using Tapatalk

Correct.

Posted

Start a lemon law buy back against GM. If they have to purchase 1000 trucks back at 47k+ a pop, that will get their attention real quick. There are consumer laws that are out there to protect you, USE THEM! Best of all is GM will have to pay your legal fees.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

I guess you have not taken the time to read thru a bunch of the post in this thread. There has already been buy backs and exchanges for new trucks and it does not seem to have made a difference. I for one am just waiting a while because to me it is not worth getting a new truck just to have the same problem with it. This problem is in 2014 to 2016 model trucks and SUV's and I guess GM is afraid to say where they are at in this matter. Do they know what is wrong, Don't they know what is wrong, I just want to see them at least post something to update us.

Posted (edited)

 

I guess you have not taken the time to read thru a bunch of the post in this thread. There has already been buy backs and exchanges for new trucks and it does not seem to have made a difference. I for one am just waiting a while because to me it is not worth getting a new truck just to have the same problem with it. This problem is in 2014 to 2016 model trucks and SUV's and I guess GM is afraid to say where they are at in this matter. Do they know what is wrong, Don't they know what is wrong, I just want to see them at least post something to update us.

I have read through a bunch of posts on this thread and I have seen people already getting buy backs. But I have also seen about twice as many people saying they will live with it or in your case not worth getting a new truck. I've seen people trying to modify their trucks to get rid of the problems (this is stupid unless your are outside of the bumper to bumper). People need to hold GM accountable and make GM either fix the truck or buy back these lemons. Even if you get into another vibrator, your warranty will reset and you can go after GM again.

 

It just saddens me to see people that are accepting this steaming pile of crap that GM is feeding them. I just want to make sure people know their rights under the law and not be buffaloed by GM. I'm went through this with my Mustang and I know how it can be. The best decision I made with that car was to call a lemon law firm. I just hope people realize that with these trucks.

Edited by dave07

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • 2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
    • And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them.  google for the code, one is always available.
    • Just don't turn the steering wheel as much?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...