Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

 

 

 

Step 1, took 3 hours to RFB all 8 tires.

Step 2, new shocks seems to take a full day.

Step 3, rear end or driveline seems take a few days. But, I think you can get a loaner. I have several cars so never paid much attention.

 

I fixed my wobble with a box wrench and 5 min. Got a little dirt on my knees since my driveway is dirt.

Elaborate as i am willing to go lay in about 4" of snow right now if i can fix it myself.

 

So frustrating as i have things to do when i get home. I have a pile of parts for the truck and domt want it at the dealer for a week and i cant do anything that i want.

 

I have another truck.... But its in the middle of a heart transplant...... 1700 miles away. Here u can drive the company truck but have bo time to take mine to the dealer that us an hour away.

 

 

 

Yay.....

 

Sent from my Note 4 on Tapashit

Posted

In April of 2015 I traded my 2013 Silverado Z71 crew cab in on a GMC Sierra All Terrain Crew Cab with a standard bed. On my way home from the dealership there was a VERY noticeable vibration from 45-55 miles per hour, and also a vibration at higher speeds(65+). I asked the dealership about the issue and they said the truck may just have flat spots on the tires from sitting on the lot. Told me to drive it a while and see if the problem corrects itself. I didn't argue, however, I could tell and knew that it was in the drivetrain and not in the tires. Upon bringing my truck back for it's first service I brought the vibration issue back up to the dealership and the still blamed the tires. Again, I didn't argue, allowing them to balance, or in my case unbalance all my tires. Apparently, their machine was out of calibration. I was on my way out of town upon completion of service and did not notice they were that far out of balance until I was quite a ways from the dealership. My trip from the dealership was only about two hours to my destination so I continued on and would just take it to a dealership in the area where I was headed. So, after driving for two hours on unbalanced tires and feeling what that feels like there was no question in my mind that my original vibration concern was definitely NOT in the tires. The other dealership re-balanced my tires and didn't address my original vibration concerns. I didn't say anything figuring I'd just get the run around from them too. Anyway, the vibration in the drivetrain was still evident. I talked to my father who has a 2014 Sierra Crew Cab 2WD short box. He said he has the same issue and definitely agreed with me that it is in the drivetrain. About a month and a half ago my dad, a very close family friend, and myself had to run and errand in my truck. The vibration at 50mph was very noticeable that day so, I asked the family friend(retired mechanic and GM mechanic for many, many years). He immediately said it was definitely in the drivetrain and said it felt like a torque issue. Meaning that the drivetrain was creating maximum torque for the gear it was in(overdrive and V4) creating the vibration. He recommended to me shimming the transmission to change the angle of the drive shaft. He said he has had the same vibration issues while building many cars throughout his years and said the shimming was the first place to start. So, I started digging into the issue further and landed here. I read many of the comments here to try and confirm or find a solution. Doesn't seem to be one though. I have yet to try shimming, but am seriously considering trying it after my latest visit to the dealership. While at the dealership for another issue on Thursday I asked the service manager if GM has found a fix for the drivetrain issue and he stated there was nothing that could be done to fix the issue.(FINALLY, A DEALERSHIP ADMITTING THAT THE VIBRATION IS IN THE DRIVETRAIN). He said to me that the issue was with the truck going into V4 creating the vibration. I'm still not satisfied with that answer because I stated to him my 2013 Z71 Crew Cab would go into V4 mode and I didn't experience any vibration issue with that truck. He really didn't have a good answer for that going onto blame the gov't standards set for the issue.

Well, I'm hesitant to modifying my truck by shimming it due to possibly voiding my warranty. However, I may just do it anyway and remove the shims prior to taking it in with any future major warranty issues. I love the truck other than the annoying vibration and don't see myself getting rid of it because of that, but as a long time GM truck owner I am disappointed GM would release vehicles with this type of issue being they've been the smoothest riding vehicles on the road for many years.

I will let everyone know if the shimming does the trick when I'm able to get to it.

 

The only problem with them saying it is when it goes into V4 is that even when you put it in tow mode it still vibrates and while in tow made it does not go into V4 mode from what I have been told. Plus why would it do it while in neutral coasting at 68mph. I know the rear and driveshaft are still turning but it should not be connected to the engine. So not sure but going into neutral would that not even eliminate the torque converter? I think this is going to be a long drawn out process.

Posted

 

I fixed my wobble with a box wrench and 5 min. Got a little dirt on my knees since my driveway is dirt.

This ought to be good.

Posted

 

The only problem with them saying it is when it goes into V4 is that even when you put it in tow mode it still vibrates and while in tow made it does not go into V4 mode from what I have been told. Plus why would it do it while in neutral coasting at 68mph. I know the rear and driveshaft are still turning but it should not be connected to the engine. So not sure but going into neutral would that not even eliminate the torque converter? I think this is going to be a long drawn out process.

Truck does go into V4 in tow/haul.... Hell mine stays in V4 more in tow then normal.

 

To turn off AFM you go to M and put it at 5

 

Sent from my Note 4 on Tapashit

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I've been monitoring this topic for a yer since purchasing my 2014 Silverado January 2015. Unfortunately many still experience the shake problem at 71mph as I did. I just drove the hell out of mine, had 3 balance jobs,and 75mph to 85 mph drives to work every day. With all that said when I placed 100 pounds of hand tools over the rear tires absolutely ALL vibrations disappeared,fortunately. For some areodynamic issues should be considered as I have noticed in the past air pressure oscillation in direct phase with body vibration while in travel with windows down.

Edited by kchaggins
Posted (edited)

I've been monitoring this topic for a yer since purchasing my 2014 Silverado January 2015. Unfortunately many still experience the shake problem at 71mph as I did. I just drove the hell out of mine, had 3 balance jobs,and 75mph to 85 mph drives to work every day. With all that said when I placed 100 pounds of hand tools over the rear tires absolutely ALL vibrations disappeared,fortunately. For some areodynamic issues should be considered as I have noticed in the past air pressure oscillation in direct phase with body vibration while in travel with windows down.

x2 Edited by WLC
Posted

Elaborate as i am willing to go lay in about 4" of snow right now if i can fix it myself.

 

So frustrating as i have things to do when i get home. I have a pile of parts for the truck and domt want it at the dealer for a week and i cant do anything that i want.

 

I have another truck.... But its in the middle of a heart transplant...... 1700 miles away. Here u can drive the company truck but have bo time to take mine to the dealer that us an hour away.

 

 

 

Yay.....

 

Sent from my Note 4 on Tapashit

 

I know this sounds stupid. I thought it was stupid when I heard it. Took me 3 weeks to finally try it.

http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/superior-13-1401/?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adword&gclid=Cj0KEQiAoby1BRDA-fPXtITt3f0BEiQAPCkqQbNBa23Pb4TyG6I8iIASWFSCGnTLjUUjvL-sHFlb_s8aAt0_8P8HAQ

 

I add those about 8" behind the u-bolts over the overload spring and both leaf springs. I tighten them down very tight thus compressing the over load. The ride is very different. The rear is softer then the front.

 

I have no idea why, I know it sounds stupid. My shake is gone no matter how stupid it seems.

Posted

 

I know this sounds stupid. I thought it was stupid when I heard it. Took me 3 weeks to finally try it.

http://www.streetsideauto.com/p/superior-13-1401/?utm_source=googlepepla&utm_medium=adword&gclid=Cj0KEQiAoby1BRDA-fPXtITt3f0BEiQAPCkqQbNBa23Pb4TyG6I8iIASWFSCGnTLjUUjvL-sHFlb_s8aAt0_8P8HAQ

 

I add those about 8" behind the u-bolts over the overload spring and both leaf springs. I tighten them down very tight thus compressing the over load. The ride is very different. The rear is softer then the front.

 

I have no idea why, I know it sounds stupid. My shake is gone no matter how stupid it seems.

 

Your 70+mph highway shake is gone or lower speeds?

Posted (edited)

I've been monitoring this topic for a yer since purchasing my 2014 Silverado January 2015. Unfortunately many still experience the shake problem at 71mph as I did. I just drove the hell out of mine, had 3 balance jobs,and 75mph to 85 mph drives to work every day. With all that said when I placed 100 pounds of hand tools over the rear tires absolutely ALL vibrations disappeared,fortunately. For some areodynamic issues should be considered as I have noticed in the past air pressure oscillation in direct phase with body vibration while in travel with windows down.

 

If the tools in the bed help... that might explain why the leaf spring clamp helped.

It does the same thing. The weight in the bed puts more weight on the rear pressing down to the overload.

 

Adding the clamp tightens the overload up to the leaf springs making it act as though it was under load.

 

Pulling a trailer, or loading the bed of mine did not get rid of my vibration.

Edited by frenchsquared
Posted (edited)

 

Your 70+mph highway shake is gone or lower speeds?

 

70 is virtually gone. At 76 mph you could not put a cup in the center consul. It shook so bad you had to slow down or speed up. Was like a death wobble. I never had a low speed vibration.

 

Now, at 74 there is a very, very slight vibration. Im sure if there was water in the center consul you could see it shake, but overall it is smoother then my wife's 2016 corolla.

 

I had two things done. I RFB the tires. That made the shake less intense. I then add the clamp and it is gone.

The truck is a pleasure to drive again.

 

I can not believe I am telling people to try it. It sounds so stupid. But it made a night and day difference.

Edited by frenchsquared
Posted

 

70 is virtually gone. At 76 mph you could not put a cup in the center consul. It shook so bad you had to slow down or speed up. Was like a death wobble. I never had a low speed vibration.

 

Now, at 74 there is a very, very slight vibration. Im sure if there was water in the center consul you could see it shake, but overall it is smoother then my wife's 2016 corolla.

 

I had two things done. I RFB the tires. That made the shake less intense. I then add the clamp and it is gone.

The truck is a pleasure to drive again.

 

I can not believe I am telling people to try it. It sounds so stupid. But it made a night and day difference.

 

That's crazy, great to hear! I have seen people on here try them before and after the axle. I have mine 5" in front of the blocks and the ride seems a little better around town but haven't been on the highway yet.

 

For those who are engineers or know more about this, would there be any rhyme or reason why putting them in front or in rear of the axle would work better? I am all for moving mine to the rear, just wondering the methodology behind it. Thanks in advance if someone can chime in!

Posted

 

70 is virtually gone. At 76 mph you could not put a cup in the center consul. It shook so bad you had to slow down or speed up. Was like a death wobble. I never had a low speed vibration.

 

Now, at 74 there is a very, very slight vibration. Im sure if there was water in the center consul you could see it shake, but overall it is smoother then my wife's 2016 corolla.

 

I had two things done. I RFB the tires. That made the shake less intense. I then add the clamp and it is gone.

The truck is a pleasure to drive again.

 

I can not believe I am telling people to try it. It sounds so stupid. But it made a night and day difference.

 

 

Can you please post some pics of where you placed this on the truck? I'm mechanically inclined enough to install them, I'm just having a hard time figuring out where to clamp them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Can it still be Assembled I?    Stribeck says that we need a certain amount of viscosity under conditions of load and velocity to prevent two surfaces of a know roughness from tearing each other asunder. And we have marketing trying to tell the masses that those two surfaced require less of that commodity due to more exact limits being placed on the same old clearances. We also know that there are limits to how hard something can before it becomes to brittle to be viable and to smooth to 'wet' the surface and that both of those conditions have been known and met since about the Second World War.    That viscosity value shook out at 10 centistokes at 212 F just under a hundred years ago.  Give this a look: [Anton Parr]     What is advertised is the Kinematic viscosity (mm2/s) or that which has been density adjusted but the value we are after is the dynamic viscosity (mPa.s) or true viscosity. You can see that this number is dependent on density thus base stock and temperature. You can also see that an SAE 30 doesn't reach that value in this example. However an SAE 30 that is at the upper end of the SAE 30 range; 12.5 cSt (mm2/s), might. 12.5 * .83 = 10.375 (mm2/s). If you could find an SAE 30 at the upper end these days.   Then there is the complication of viscosity modifiers or VII or VM, whatever you wish to call them. Polymers added to very thin base oils, perhaps 3 to 6 cP oils, that will meet the SAE *W30 spec at 'tested' shear rates and 100 C/212F  target temperature. So a polymer fortified base that is a fraction of the 10 cP requirement Stribeck insist upon.   This could be all well and good if those polymers didn't have two very problematic 'features'. They shear or loose viscosity both 1.) permanently and 2.) temporality. And they do both omitted in the advertised data with the distinct  purpose of deceiving the consumer of the actual operating state of the fluid. I've shown the example of Warren Oils COSTCO 10.91 cSt 5W30 formuation several times where the 100 C HTHS value is 6.9 cP!! That's the temporary shear down and with and SSI or shear stability index of 9.4 cSt. Note the intentional deception in using mixed units?    After a short while that 9.4 cSt oil has a viscosity corrected dynamic value of 7.8 cP. But as the SSI is still within the range of an SAE *W30 whose lower value is 9.3 cSt.    This allows them to continue to call this SAE 16 weight oil a 30 weight, the cake, and still meet the API requirements for fuel efficiency IMPROVEMENT mandated by the EPA. The eating of the cake. By the time you've worn out your motor doing the responsible thing by adhering to the warranty requirements, (the stick), you get deprived of the carrot, wear control. So sad, to bad.   So what can be done? Do I need actually say? [Anton Parr]       Even this must be monitored if the oil is on the low side and the VII an organic or you opt for a 0W40 with an even lighter base oil and more / higher MW VII. (Note the lower density of the 40 weight versus the SAE 30 mono-weight?)    There is another workaround. Temperature. An SAE *W30 run at a bulk temperature of between 180 and 195 F.    Being the belt and suspenders sort I am I do both. Run it cook and run it heavy.    In Part II I'll work the AW package. 
    • So, do I go elbow-deep on this thing or list it for sale and play dumb? Seems to "runs good."   I'm about $1200 away from having: -a rebuilt injector ($300) -a new cat ($250) -a new cat back exhaust (OE style) ($300) -a new AC compressor ($200) -AC refrigerant charge ($150)   In theory, this should rectify the obvious detracting issues from its value and operability. Cold AC with a non-squeaking AC pulley both sounds and feels good. An exhaust that isn't cut/hacked in 17 different places and doesn't vibrate on a crossmember would make it sound and feel less janky. A working cat would help the stink, and will save the earth, but *if and only if* the fuel system is working properly, which would also address the intermittent "rich" CEL.   Heard a good one... CEL for "Rich condition" means you haven't spent enough money on the truck lately, and it's letting you know.   Rebuilding the injector would seem to be the most important part. Replacing the cat would be secondary. I don't think mine is plugged or overly restricted, but it might be a little restricted? I have no good way to tell other than seat of the pants feel. I hate the smell.   The current theory is I have a rich idle problem: A bad fuel pressure regulator, or a leaking injector(s) being the highest probabilities. I already replaced the FPR but that doesn't mean its replacement isn't also bad. It was a new part from Dorman, but the packaging looked like it had been sitting on a shelf for 20 years.   This is the (single) upstream O2 sensor shown at idle. I'm getting a lot of "rich" it seems. Sometimes it stays high like that and doesn't drop down. That makes me think it's processing injector leaks or a partially stuck open injector.     Other times it looks like this. Nice oscillations between rich and lean, which is what I think it should be. Under load and at speed, the oscillations are nice and tight and uniform looking, high and low.     Fuel trims suggest the PCM is compensating pretty hard at idle to pull fuel out. But it's not enough to trip a CEL. Something about slowing to a stop: brake vaccum booster, EGR, or the EVAP purge is delayed, or there's pooled fuel in the intake again that's draining into a cylinder is enough to set the CEL. Of course, in two days of driving, it hasn't set. I was hoping to actually look at the freeze-frame data when it sets. IAT is high because it's idling on an 83 degree day here.  
    • Have considered installing a DC to DC charger in your camper to replace your isolator?  
    • Common failure.  You need to replace the fuel door housing.   The painted cover transfers over to the new housing.  To remove the old one there is 4 spots where you poke the plastic to release it.  
    • No such thing as regenerative braking on a pure ICE vehicle.     Regenerative braking is the re-capture of energy from electric motors and stores it in the battery pack.  So hybrids, PHEV and EVs have regenerative braking.     What you are seeing is the charging system changing modes is all.  Its likely entering charge mode for some sort of reason is all.  All of the charging modes will be listed below.   As for L10 vs D.  L10 turns off automatic grade braking.  L10 puts you in control of grade downshifts where in D it will automatically do it based on brake pedal position and other factors.  Otherwise L10 and D drive exactly the same aside from that one aspect.    Battery Sulfation Mode The BCM will enter this mode when the interpreted Generator output voltage is less than 13.2 V for 45 minutes. When this condition exists the BCM will enter Charge Mode for 2–3 minutes. The BCM will then determine which mode to enter depending on voltage requirements.   Charge Mode The BCM will enter Charge Mode when ever one of the following conditions are met:   Windshield wipers are ON for more than 3 s. Climate Control Voltage Boost Mode Request is true, as sensed by the HVAC control module via serial data. High speed cooling fan, rear defogger, and HVAC high speed blower operation can cause the BCM to enter the Charge Mode. The estimated battery temperature is less than 0°C (32°F). Battery State of Charge is less than 80%. Vehicle speed is greater than 145 km/h (90 mph) A current sensor malfunction exists. System voltage is determined to be below 12.56 V When any one of these conditions is met, the system will set targeted generator output voltage to a charging voltage between 13.9–15.5 V, depending on the battery state of charge and estimated battery temperature.   Fuel Economy Mode The BCM will enter Fuel Economy Mode when the estimated battery temperature is at least 0°C (32°F) but less than or equal to 80°C (176°F), the calculated battery current is less than 15 A and greater than −8 A, and the battery state-of-charge is greater than or equal to 80%. Its targeted generator output voltage is the open circuit voltage of the battery and can be between 12.5–13.1 V. When fuel economy mode is active, the generator is not charging, only maintaining open circuit battery voltage. The BCM will exit this mode and enter Charge Mode when any of the conditions described above are present.   Headlamp Mode The BCM will enter Headlamp Mode when ever the head lamps are ON (high or low beams). Voltage will be regulated between 13.9–14.5 V.   Start Up Mode When the engine is started the BCM sets a targeted generator output voltage of 14.5 V for 30 s.   Tow/Haul Mode (if applicable) Pressing the Tow/Haul Mode button located on the center stack, the vehicle system voltage is raised and the remote (non-vehicle) battery will be charged. Having the headlamps on will raise the system voltage and if the Tow/Haul button is applied it will not serve any purpose. The voltage is regulated between 13.9-14.5 V.      
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...