Shake or Vibration Issues

Binobanbino · August 9, 2016

Most dealerships will not help you with your problems with the leveling kit on it. It is on your dime to remove the leveling kit. You will also probably have to put the factory rims and tires back on. It has been covered in this thread multiple times that the leveling kit and bigger tires/ different rims are not the cause but it is what it is. You are asking GM to fix a problem to a vehicle that has had the oem parts replaced and/or modified and they have every right to not work on it till the truck is back to how it was when it left the factory.

I agree. Put it all back to stock or your out of luck. When I was going thru this issue I saw a lot of truck with mods like different tires on stock rims, different rims and tires, different shocks, leveling kits, anything different then factory they get turned away.

I know most of these truck shake but adding different mods just adds fuel to the fire.

Snoringbear · August 10, 2016

"This is the needle bearing location right behind the axle flange."

I believe those are roller bearings. However, you'll probably find needle bearings inside your u-joint caps is you should accidentally knock one off. Done that a few times, a pain in the you know where to put them back in place and reinstall the cap. So, be careful

rpoffen · August 10, 2016

"This is the needle bearing location right behind the axle flange."

I believe those are roller bearings. However, you'll probably find needle bearings inside your u-joint caps is you should accidentally knock one off. Done that a few times, a pain in the you know where to put them back in place and reinstall the cap. So, be careful

I got the impression this was the FRONT differential, so he should not be dealing with U-Joints.

Also, if it is the front, then if a loose bearing is the cause of his problem, it isn't the fix for everyone because it would not explain the 2WD trucks that have the vibration.

LongrangeLauber · August 10, 2016

I got the impression this was the FRONT differential, so he should not be dealing with U-Joints.

Also, if it is the front, then if a loose bearing is the cause of his problem, it isn't the fix for everyone because it would not explain the 2WD trucks that have the vibration.

The front driveshaft is exactly like the rear drive shaft just shorter, both have 2 u-joints

rpoffen · August 10, 2016

The front driveshaft is exactly like the rear drive shaft just shorter, both have 2 u-joints

Except he noted that the drivers side has play and the passenger side does not, which makes no sense unless he is talking about the shafts to the front wheels, in which case they would be the CV shafts not the driveshaft, and they would unbolt as a single integrated unit. Note the driveshaft hanging down behind the diff in the right side of the picture.

Edited August 10, 2016 by rpoffen

smcgillis10 · August 10, 2016

"This is the needle bearing location right behind the axle flange."

I believe those are roller bearings. However, you'll probably find needle bearings inside your u-joint caps is you should accidentally knock one off. Done that a few times, a pain in the you know where to put them back in place and reinstall the cap. So, be careful

I'm not talking about cv joint or drive lines. There's s needle / Torrington bearing (outside axle shaft bearing) looks like this. It's a type of needle bearing. this bearing uses the axle shaft as the dolling surface.

These.

Need to talk to the dealer to see what the proper timken part number is but pretty sure it's this one.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Edited August 10, 2016 by smcgillis10

Snoringbear · August 11, 2016

I'm not talking about cv joint or drive lines. There's s needle / Torrington bearing (outside axle shaft bearing) looks like this. It's a type of needle bearing. this bearing uses the axle shaft as the dolling surface.

These.

Need to talk to the dealer to see what the proper timken part number is but pretty sure it's this one.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well, curiosity got the best of me. So, did a little googling on what's a needle bearing and what's a roller bearing. Your pics actually show good examples of each. Anyway, the below Wikipedia hot link gives a pretty good definition of each and when one becomes the other. To paraphrase Bill Clinton, "it depends on what the definition of is is". Nothing wrong having a teachable moment every now and then, right ?

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Needle_roller_bearing

SierraMyst · August 16, 2016

So I had my 2016 AT with 20"s road force balanced after they had attempted 2 regular balances that just changed the vibration speed, but didn't eliminate it.

My truck was smooth to 72-74 most days, and aggressive vibration from 75 and up. Some days it was perfect to 74, and sometimes it was slight up to 74. It always shook at 75+

So before the road force balancing All, every single damn one was over 36-45 lbs of road force.

Seriously GM... You roll out your vehicles out like this?

After road force, 3 are 14-18 lbs and one was down to 22 lbs. They mounted the 22 lb one in the rear which eliminated the steering shake.

Now the the vibrations are 97% gone at speeds up to 72/73 and 99% gone at speeds of 75 and up.

I bought my wife a Yukon Denali XL this weekend, it it also shook ridiculously.

The dealership clearly admitted that it was the tires. The "service manager" stated that he's pretty sure that GM slaps tires on the rims with zero consideration or high to low spot alignment and in many cases, they place some sticky weights on the rims to give to appearance that the wheels have been balanced. But at no time do they truly balance thier wheels from the factory.

The dealership was forced to invest $66k in a new road force balancer because they rebalance "every single" wheels set on every car that come to the dealership.

The have a tech that just does this. They pay him $115 an hour to just road force balance wheels.

So we bought the truck on the basis that they would RFB, and if that didn't work out they'd replace the tires with new bridge stones, and if I'm not happy, they will replace them with Michelins.

The Yukon wheels were all 36 - 45 lbs of road force.

After RFB, three were 14-22 lbs, 1 was 28 lbs. He's ordering two new tires, one for the 22 lbs and one for the 28.

Even at this level, the Yukon 96% better. And should be resolved with the two new tires.

He said he's required to replace the factory tire first. If I'm not happy, he said he'd order me Michelins and went on to mention "wait til you see how this truck perform on Michelins that all RFB under 10 lbs."

So I'm confident that the issues here lies with 2 things:

1) GM using that crappie tires they can find.

2) And not giving three craps about balancing the tires from the factory.

Just my thoughts

Edited August 16, 2016 by SierraMyst

abominable z71 · August 16, 2016

So I had my 2016 AT with 20"s road force balanced after they had attempted 2 regular balances that just changed the vibration speed, but didn't eliminate it.

My truck was smooth to 72-74 most days, and aggressive vibration from 75 and up. Some days it was perfect to 74, and sometimes it was slight up to 74. It always shook at 75+

So before the road force balancing All, every single damn one was over 36-45 lbs of road force.

Seriously GM... You roll out your vehicles out like this?

After road force, 3 are 14-18 lbs and one was down to 22 lbs. They mounted the 22 lb one in the rear which eliminated the steering shake.

Now the the vibrations are 97% gone at speeds up to 72/73 and 99% gone at speeds of 75 and up.

I bought my wife a Yukon Denali XL this weekend, it it also shook ridiculously.

The dealership clearly admitted that it was the tires. The "service manager" stated that he's pretty sure that GM slaps tires on the rims with zero consideration or high to low spot alignment and in many cases, they place some sticky weights on the rims to give to appearance that the wheels have been balanced. But at no time do they truly balance thier wheels from the factory.

The dealership was forced to invest $66k in a new road force balancer because they rebalance "every single" wheels set on every car that come to the dealership.

The have a tech that just does this. They pay him $115 an hour to just road force balance wheels.

So we bought the truck on the basis that they would RFB, and if that didn't work out they'd replace the tires with new bridge stones, and if I'm not happy, they will replace them with Michelins.

The Yukon wheels were all 36 - 45 lbs of road force.

After RFB, three were 14-22 lbs, 1 was 28 lbs. He's ordering two new tires, one for the 22 lbs and one for the 28.

Even at this level, the Yukon 96% better. And should be resolved with the two new tires.

He said he's required to replace the factory tire first. If I'm not happy, he said he'd order me Michelins and went on to mention "wait til you see how this truck perform on Michelins that all RFB under 10 lbs."

So I'm confident that the issues here lies with 2 things:

1) GM using that crappie tires they can find.

2) And not giving three craps about balancing the tires from the factory.

Just my thoughts

The numbers from the road force measurements are the variance in force between the lowest measurement and the highest measurement due to stiff spots in the sidewalls and high and low spots on the tire and wheel.. 25 lbs is the industry standard acceptable measurement for a truck or suv tire although it has been stated that numbers below 15 are required to eliminate the shaking on the new GM platforms. Something to be aware of though as you drive and the tires start to break in there is a good chance these numbers will change and may require the tires to be force matched onto the wheel again changing temperature will also have an affect. Hopefully everything stays smooth for you from here on out.

rpoffen · August 16, 2016

The numbers from the road force measurements are the variance in force between the lowest measurement and the highest measurement due to stiff spots in the sidewalls and high and low spots on the tire and wheel.. 25 lbs is the industry standard acceptable measurement for a truck or suv tire although it has been stated that numbers below 15 are required to eliminate the shaking on the new GM platforms. Something to be aware of though as you drive and the tires start to break in there is a good chance these numbers will change and may require the tires to be force matched onto the wheel again changing temperature will also have an affect. Hopefully everything stays smooth for you from here on out.

Another thing to do is to use an indelible marker to mark the sidewall on each tire where the valve stem is. In previous posts (somewhere back in the 629 pages), some posters had noted that the tire was slipping on the rim. If it does, then the RF balance is no good any longer.

This way, if you start to get the vibes back, you can easily see if the tire has moved.

tbarn · August 16, 2016

The dealership was forced to invest $66k in a new road force balancer because they rebalance "every single" wheels set on every car that come to the dealership.

The have a tech that just does this. They pay him $115 an hour to just road force balance wheels.

You buy this BS?

SierraMyst · August 16, 2016

You buy this BS?

Hard for me to believe the Service Manager isn't pissed that he has to rebalance the wheels on every single truck that comes on his lot because every single one shakes?

Point is that every service manager that cares about getting the cars right are also fed up with the vibration B.S.

Then there's service departments like my first dealer who tried to regular balance them twice and eventually gave me the "this is normal for a truck" b.s.

I saw the machine, it was pretty new, and he was aware of the fact that there's a vibration issue in just about every vehicle.

That takes balls to admit to a customer.

It's GM that doesn't want to admit it.

C6Bill · August 16, 2016

$115 an hour comes out to $239,200 a year, assuming 40 hours a week x 52 weeks. That may be what they are trying to charge back to GM but that isn't what they are paying their tech. If it is I'll give up my job as a communications engineer and learn to RFB tires lol

rpoffen · August 16, 2016

$115 an hour comes out to $239,200 a year, assuming 40 hours a week x 52 weeks. That may be what they are trying to charge back to GM but that isn't what they are paying their tech. If it is I'll give up my job as a communications engineer and learn to RFB tires lol

Yeah, the dealer charge per hour is probably $115/hr, but they might pay the tech $20/hr and pocket the rest!

Batcat · August 16, 2016

My 2014 Z71 4X4 has a noticeable vibration when braking at highway speeds. However, it doesn't seem to affect the braking performance. Also, it does not pulse as would be felt when rotar is warped. There is no vibration when braking at normal in town driving speeds. Braking is smooth and normal. Truck has 51K miles.

Any ideas?