Jump to content

POST PICTURES OF YOUR BODY LIFTS (2014+)


1badtie

Recommended Posts

Posted

Thank you for the detailed response! Could you please upload a direct side view if it is not too much trouble? Cheers.

It's raining and overcast here right now and they tuck up under the truck far enough they pretty much can't be seen from a persons typical vantage point but I snapped some up close from about 5 feet away 2 feet off the ground. I also snapped a pic of the washer you have to cut and a shot of the running board itself where you can see the witness mark from the body mount when it hits in the up position. Hopefully these are helpful. I haven't modified the e brake cables yet so nothing to show there.

post-144522-0-34859700-1457389053_thumb.jpg

post-144522-0-67623900-1457389058_thumb.jpg

post-144522-0-86113200-1457389154_thumb.jpg

post-144522-0-50204700-1457389167_thumb.jpg

post-144522-0-34859700-1457389053_thumb.jpg

post-144522-0-67623900-1457389058_thumb.jpg

post-144522-0-86113200-1457389154_thumb.jpg

post-144522-0-50204700-1457389167_thumb.jpg

post-144522-0-34859700-1457389053_thumb.jpg

post-144522-0-67623900-1457389058_thumb.jpg

post-144522-0-86113200-1457389154_thumb.jpg

post-144522-0-50204700-1457389167_thumb.jpg

post-144522-0-34859700-1457389053_thumb.jpg

post-144522-0-67623900-1457389058_thumb.jpg

post-144522-0-86113200-1457389154_thumb.jpg

post-144522-0-50204700-1457389167_thumb.jpg

  • Replies 427
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

It's raining and overcast here right now and they tuck up under the truck far enough they pretty much can't be seen from a persons typical vantage point but I snapped some up close from about 5 feet away 2 feet off the ground. I also snapped a pic of the washer you have to cut and a shot of the running board itself where you can see the witness mark from the body mount when it hits in the up position. Hopefully these are helpful. I haven't modified the e brake cables yet so nothing to show there.

Great! Thank you these are very helpful I appreciate it!

Posted

275 65 20 BFG KO2

I love the KO2 they look very aggressive for a all terrain tire

 

Stock +31 rims? With the tires coming in at 34x10.83, what is your clearance at full lock between the sidewall and the swaybar?

Posted

Stock +31 rims? With the tires coming in at 34x10.83, what is your clearance at full lock between the sidewall and the swaybar?

 

 

Yes stock 20" gm rims. I had about 3/4 inch space left I would say. I can confirm in the morning but I probably could got a little wider or taller and it might have fit. But these have never rubbed so far and I've had wheel turned pretty sharp while hitting bumps, going up inclines, etc..

Posted

Hello, would a couple guys be willing to snap a couple pictures of your gap guards? How well do they blend in with the fabric wheel liners? Or can you buy them as the same material as the fabric liners?. Thanks!

Posted

Only picture I have at the moment. 2.5in level kit with 1.5in body lift.

zFp2e5d.jpg

 

Rancho Quicklift, Zone 1.5" body lift. 285 65 18 toyo at II's on 18x9 -12 fuel boosts.

Just went down and looked at my truck, everything is on and painted just right. body lift is on and looks great still somewhat of a gap above the front bumper they said they tightened everything as high as it would go it may just be the kit. 516fde37cf33563319e01aa7c453ffe7.jpg5dbdec6fae342eee997f8b37efee11a7.jpg8e0db495ccafa15ca8c35fe83ffffe97.jpg01f081326aa84c5621365fdbff61b802.jpg

 

 

 

 

Last pic is of the small gap above the front bumper. Does it look normal?

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

My Zone 1.5" body lift arrives tomorrow & was curious about fitment before getting started. I was going to remove the grill & bumpers today so i have less work tomorrow. I'm worried about fitment cuz the Zone website states the kit does not fit the Denali and my AT bumpers look exactly like the Denali. Does anyone know the reason behind this.

 

I quoted you guys because our bumpers have the front sensors and was curious if over extending wires might be an issue. If all went smooth with ur install, I'll start breaking down my truck today and hopefully post some pics tomorrow after its done. Thanks in advance

Posted

My Zone 1.5" body lift arrives tomorrow & was curious about fitment before getting started. I was going to remove the grill & bumpers today so i have less work tomorrow. I'm worried about fitment cuz the Zone website states the kit does not fit the Denali and my AT bumpers look exactly like the Denali. Does anyone know the reason behind this.

 

I quoted you guys because our bumpers have the front sensors and was curious if over extending wires might be an issue. If all went smooth with ur install, I'll start breaking down my truck today and hopefully post some pics tomorrow after its done. Thanks in advance

I'm not sure why the body lift wouldn't fit a Denali other than maybe something to do with the special shocks and struts that they have??? I can't remember what they are specifically just that they are different

 

You don't have a Denali so sounds like your good!

 

My Silverado has the parking sensors front and rear and the wiring has slack so it's not an issue on it.

 

Good luck

Posted

you shouldn't have any problems mine does not have the front parking sensors though. A local shop put my RC body lift on

 

Make sure you post some pics when finished!

Posted

Sure will, bumpers are off. Now, its a waiting game with UPS. Should get my order tomorrow

 

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

Posted

73657a49c92c654cf79a14084a353998.jpg86f9b7d086298e60d7835cccf571e3ce.jpg7534973cf6b07bb56cea6af73fd2dac7.jpg

 

2.5" RC front level & 1.5" Zone BL

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

Does the body klift have any effect on the mounting location of your bull bar?

 

Nice rig by the way!

Posted

I added a 1.5" Zone BL. I'll get better pics later. 20x12s arrive on Tuesday. a734f326fbfb608a128ca3a0c75fafd1.jpg

Posted

- 2015 Tungsten Chevy Silverado Crew Cab LTZ 4x4

- 3" Maxtrac Body Lift

 

post-149253-0-80348100-1451932388_thumb.png
post-149253-0-29357400-1457906774_thumb.jpg
post-149253-0-08644400-1447456217_thumb.png

post-149253-0-08644400-1447456217_thumb.png

post-149253-0-80348100-1451932388_thumb.png

post-149253-0-29357400-1457906774_thumb.jpg

post-149253-0-08644400-1447456217_thumb.png

post-149253-0-80348100-1451932388_thumb.png

post-149253-0-29357400-1457906774_thumb.jpg

post-149253-0-08644400-1447456217_thumb.png

post-149253-0-80348100-1451932388_thumb.png

post-149253-0-29357400-1457906774_thumb.jpg

Posted

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1453830814.219567.jpg

 

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1453830827.806462.jpg

attachicon.gifImageUploadedByTapatalk1453830879.584335.jpg

What level and body lift? And what size tires? Thanks

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • There would be one way of determining the quality of the factory oil although probably more than a typical oil lab test, and that would be to draw out some oil from a new truck and send a sample to a lab that could do a more elaborate test of the oil. The issue with too little oil in the diff may not be the lack of lubrication of the diff bearings and gears themselves ( although a lack of oil volume for cooling ) but the wheel bearings because at some point the oil would be too low to properly get onto the spinning axle or fed along the axle tube. That was the claim by the local dealer from a couple of trucks in recent years that had the wheel bearings fail and they figured from lack of sufficient oil due to a severe underfilled diff and some of the bearing material made its way to the diff and it got damaged as well so the axle housings were just replaced on warranty. But your right that if the diff is over filled by whatever margin that it causes more churning of the oil than is desirable and that is no good either and can cause a pinion seal to leak. Also old oil I believe can tend to loose some of its properties like antifoaming and another good reason to change the diff oil every so often. 
    • I would be surprised if the diff's were not filled (with the cheapest gear lube) at the axle factory before being shipped to GM.  If you ever watched them building trucks they install the axles and all suspension parts with the frame upside down and then turn it over before its time to install the engine.     Too much gear lube in a axle can be worse than not enough especially with a lower quality GL where is get whipped up with entrained air (foam)  weakening its ability to lubricate.        
    • This is the 6.6 gasser section of the forum, you should either delete or modify your previous post as it is misleading for anyone looking for factual information on their 6.6 gas engine.
    • Well....I've done my first intake gasket. Probably wrong, but...we'll see?   Ultra black on the china walls and 1/4" up onto the sides of the intake gaskets. Permatex High Tack (couldn't find Gaskachinch) on the head side of the intake gasket. I read wrong and it says you're supposed to put it on the mating surface of the head, not the gasket. Hoping it's like a PB&J sandwich where it doesn't matter what side the PB goes on so long as there's jelly. That crap is messy/sticky and I got a dab or two on the intake port openings, tried to wipe it off. Hopefully it won't be a big deal and will only aid in sealing.   Per instructions I left the intake (top side) of the gasket dry except for a light smear of RTV around the coolant ports. Wiggling the intake in there was a bear but I had help to free me of surrounding wiring/stuff but I was basically able to set it straight down lined up with the bolt holes.   I did not think to wait until the RTV skinned over but there probably was 5-10 minutes while it sat before installing the intake.   Bolts finger tight first. Then, followed the Chilton's manual pattern to snug them to 15 lb-ft.   Waited a little over an hour, and then did the final torque in sequence again to 35 lb-ft.   Yesterday I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and got my new "nut and bolt kit" (fuel lines) installed. Damn GM used security torx on the spider, which I don't have, so I got scammed at the local HW store for an off-brand security Torx bit set.   The new driver's door mirror arrived yesterday, so, there's a chance this thing could be running and road legal tomorrow? I don't want to get my hopes up.   This will be my first time stabbing a distributor, too. Although, lucky me, someone else marked the old distributor for removal previously, I did see that. (Someone's been here before!!). Engine is still at TDC so it *should* be just a matter of transferring the mark to the new dizzy and rotating it into place.
    • He has his dad’s newer truck he’s put away. He has several old cars he rotates between him and his family. I’ve seen a restored square body and a SS Chevy truck he’s sometimes drives. He did raffle off a new suburban recently. As much as he is watched if he drove new stuff as a rule we’d know it. It would be fine by me. I don’t care what people prefer. I got one more new one in me. I’d rather my wife get one. I can’t get her out of the Genesis. Don’t tell anyone. I want her to get an electric truck. I want to put a generator in the back. Just because. She hasn’t bit yet.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...