Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted
2 minutes ago, f8l vnm said:

Can someone show me where GM says 91+ is required for the 6.2 ? 

Recommended ? yes, if your in 100 degree doing back to back pulls , or your pulling a 8k+ trailer . but just dont see the need for higher octane for cool weather or basic street/highway driving. 

This is not an insult to anyone who does use 91+ , just my personal observations . 

It's on fueleconomy.gov 

I noticed it when I was researching trucks. They're most likely getting their information from the manufacturers, unless they made an error it clearly reads Premium. 

 

I'm sure that using 87 Octane in the 6.2 is fine. We have a car in the household that recommends 91 octane, been running 87 since we got it in 2012 and its totally fine. 

If the manufacturer recommends it, then there is a reason why. I'm no expert, but its probably going to result in slightly better performance. Why else would they recommend it? 

 

Capture.JPG

Posted
Can someone show me where GM says 91+ is required for the 6.2 ? 
Recommended ? yes, if your in 100 degree doing back to back pulls , or your pulling a 8k+ trailer . but just dont see the need for higher octane for cool weather or basic street/highway driving. 
This is not an insult to anyone who does use 91+ , just my personal observations . 

b6a5ed51f823ccd98325066c4140dbe6.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
Posted
b6a5ed51f823ccd98325066c4140dbe6.jpg   

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

 

 

 It is NOT required as people seem to think. It's recommended (as your image shows) to achieve maximum power and fuel economy but runs just fine with regular (for those that say premium is required, read the text note. Says "fuel down to 87 may be used"). I'll post this extremely in depth ~70 page research paper from AAA conducting testing on multiple vehicles that recommend or require premium to see what the effects are. They actually say that they recommend running regular in the 6.2 because the mpg increase does not offset the fuel cost. They state that power reduction was ~2% or less on their dyno testing and fuel economy was most affected on flat ground. They observed 0 pinging or knock issues on regular because the ECU was able to switch to a lower octane table. Everyone saying the 6.2 requires premium is wrong. GM recommends premium. It was likely done to increase mpg number because they get dinged on fleet average mpg. So it's in their interest to tell us to use premium if it increases mpg 1-2 mpg, because their fleet average goes up, even though it's cheaper $/mi to run regular with slightly lower MPG. Their only metric is mpg for fleet average mpg.

 

There are NO issues with running regular gas in the 6.2, despite what ill-informed people seem to think and say with 0 data or facts. Yes, your mpg will be affected slightly. Yes, your power will be affected slightly. Data shows 0-13% reduction in MPG (depends on driving conditions as shown by my below link), and power is down ~1-2% at > 4k rpm (no change below 4k). If you don't rev your truck much, you don't even lose HP!

 

I'll post this research link again....

 

I personally run 93 in my 6.2, but gas is cheap. My old truck needed premium (heavily modified 2500) and got 10 mpg. So doubling my mpg is awesome for me anyway.

 

https://newsroom.aaa.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Premium-Fuel-Phase-II-Research-Report-FINAL-2.pd

 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted
13 minutes ago, Jonofmac said:

 

It is NOT required as people seem to think. It's recommended (as your image shows) to achieve maximum power and fuel economy but runs just fine with regular (for those that say premium is required, read the text note. Says "fuel down to 87 may be used"). I'll post this extremely in depth ~70 page research paper from AAA conducting testing on multiple vehicles that recommend or require premium to see what the effects are. They actually say that they recommend running regular in the 6.2 because the mpg increase does not offset the fuel cost. They state that power reduction was ~2% or less on their dyno testing and fuel economy was most affected on flat ground. They observed 0 pinging or knock issues on regular because the ECU was able to switch to a lower octane table. Everyone saying the 6.2 requires premium is wrong. GM recommends premium. It was likely done to increase mpg number because they get dinged on fleet average mpg. So it's in their interest to tell us to use premium if it increases mpg 1-2 mpg, because their fleet average goes up.

 

There are NO issues with running regular gas in the 6.2, despite what ill-informed people seem to think and say with 0 data or facts.

 

I'll post this research link again....

 

I personally run 93 in my 6.2, but gas is cheap. My old truck needed premium (heavily modified 2500) and got 10 mpg. So doubling my mpg is awesome for me anyway.

 

https://newsroom.aaa.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Premium-Fuel-Phase-II-Research-Report-FINAL-2.pd

 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I run 93 too to get the best performance -to me it would be like having someone give me a super model and saying we recommend real nice clothes, but you can get her stuff at Walmart if you want.

Thanks for clearing it up though, I thought that it was required too!

 

  • Like 2
Posted
 It is NOT required as people seem to think. It's recommended (as your image shows) to achieve maximum power and fuel economy but runs just fine with regular (for those that say premium is required, read the text note. Says "fuel down to 87 may be used"). I'll post this extremely in depth ~70 page research paper from AAA conducting testing on multiple vehicles that recommend or require premium to see what the effects are. They actually say that they recommend running regular in the 6.2 because the mpg increase does not offset the fuel cost. They state that power reduction was ~2% or less on their dyno testing and fuel economy was most affected on flat ground. They observed 0 pinging or knock issues on regular because the ECU was able to switch to a lower octane table. Everyone saying the 6.2 requires premium is wrong. GM recommends premium. It was likely done to increase mpg number because they get dinged on fleet average mpg. So it's in their interest to tell us to use premium if it increases mpg 1-2 mpg, because their fleet average goes up, even though it's cheaper $/mi to run regular with slightly lower MPG. Their only metric is mpg for fleet average mpg. 
There are NO issues with running regular gas in the 6.2, despite what ill-informed people seem to think and say with 0 data or facts. Yes, your mpg will be affected slightly. Yes, your power will be affected slightly. Data shows 0-13% reduction in MPG (depends on driving conditions as shown by my below link), and power is down ~1-2% at > 4k rpm (no change below 4k). If you don't rev your truck much, you don't even lose HP!
 
I'll post this research link again....
 
I personally run 93 in my 6.2, but gas is cheap. My old truck needed premium (heavily modified 2500) and got 10 mpg. So doubling my mpg is awesome for me anyway.
 
https://newsroom.aaa.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/12/Premium-Fuel-Phase-II-Research-Report-FINAL-2.pd
 
Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

That AAA study keeps being brought up but they tested the L86, not the current L87. I tried searching but can’t find any info on the technology change that might’ve happened. I’m not arguing 93 is required, I’m just saying that test, in this convo, means nothing.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
  • Like 2
Posted
That AAA study keeps being brought up but they tested the L86, not the current L87. I tried searching but can’t find any info on the technology change that might’ve happened. I’m not arguing 93 is required, I’m just saying that test, in this convo, means nothing.  

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro

 

I would argue that it still is quite relevant. 

The L86 vs L87 are virtually identical outside of DFM vs AFM from every piece of data I can find.

 

Same bore, stroke, compression ratio, HP and torque.

 

The introduction of the more advanced variant of AFM (which is DFM in 2019), won't affect any WOT measurements. The only thing it could affect is part throttle might see less of a difference than the AFM models.

DFM is an evolution of AFM, where the engine has 17 different modes instead of the 2 in AFM (V8 vs V4). DFM can run on a number of cylinders ranging from 2 to 8 cylinders instead of 4 or 8. It also rotates the combustion between used and unused cylinders to help with uneven wear. That was the only "significant" change of L86 to L87. I could find all this with a quick Google across a few different websites and looking at GM's tech specs.

 

The larger MPG drop of the AFM vehicles was due to the engine having to run in V8 mode more than it was with premium gas. DFM now allows you to run on modes between V4 and V8 modes. So perhaps a V6 mode would help decrease the gap between premium and regular gas mileage, further. This is only a hypothesis, but seeing as how AAA recorded V4 mide was activated less, it would seem possible that mpg could be improved if you could take advantage of a V6 mode instead of running V8 full time.

 

It should not affect any other aspect of the test, considering nothing really was changed except for cylinder deactivation modes regarding the engine change.

 

Of course, another change is 10 speed vs 8 speed. I'm not sure how that would affect gas mileage, but if the AFM model had to downshift out of 8th to cruise (I didn't see any mention of that for the flat grade testing, which is where the engine uses V4 mode, and the largest mpg difference was observed). I can't imagine having additional gears between the 8th double OD and OD could hurt gas mileage, either.

 

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Posted

Well, one difference might be the tuning/software. I had one of my cars tuned by a pro back when I thought it was cool, and they can definitely change the tune for different octanes. Exact same hardware, different software, different results running the various octanes. So no guarantees that the older engine would behave the same as the newer one.

Posted

Had my 2019 AT4 with 6.2 since Sep 2019. Major reason for 6.2 was it was the only way to get 10 speed tranny on 2019 models. I had the 8 speed in my 2015 6.2 SLT..the tranny was crap, one of the many reasons I no heartburn with trading it.

I have just over 10k miles combination rural/city/highway. Getting average of 18-19 mpg. Get a little better with highway trips..20-22 mpg. 24.5 is best mpg I have gotten, but it doesn't take many hills to pull that average down.

Posted
On 5/20/2020 at 10:51 AM, Ferrari Eater said:

Which engine is better? I assume the 6.2 has more power and the 5.3 has better mpg, but how much of a difference is it?

Define what BETTER means to you and you will have your answer. 

  • Like 2
Posted

The 6.2 is a beast of a engine. No argument. If money and availability were not a factor I might have one. That being said I find the 5.3 to be a great engine. I don’t do much towing so the power is more than adequate for my needs. It just depends on what you want or plan to use the truck for.

  • Like 1
Posted

What’s real world gas mileage difference between the 5.3 and 6.2?


I’m heavily interested in an AT4 don’t mind the cost of premium as that’s what my bmw takes now. But wondering about gas mileage differences...

Posted
What’s real world gas mileage difference between the 5.3 and 6.2?

I’m heavily interested in an AT4 don’t mind the cost of premium as that’s what my bmw takes now. But wondering about gas mileage differences...
I average 18-18.5 on my 6.2 denali, the at4 gets about 1 mpg less. My driving is mixed with probably 60% highway. I do have a heavyish foot.

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted

I’ve had both the 5.3 and 6.2, the 6.2 gives better mpg’s and overall better driving experience. The 6.2 runs much better on premium fuel and a whole lot more smiles per miles and you cannot deny that the 6.2 is much better at towing.


Sent from Above

Posted
4 hours ago, AsapAT4 said:

What’s real world gas mileage difference between the 5.3 and 6.2?


I’m heavily interested in an AT4 don’t mind the cost of premium as that’s what my bmw takes now. But wondering about gas mileage differences...

I have 2019 AT4 - I get 13-15 around town and 15-18 on the road - I have 2" level kit up front - cost me about 1 mpg - still have stock 275/65/18 Duratraks -   I have never had a tank where I exceeded 18 mpg, but have had 50 mile stretchs of up to 21 mpg.  I have 6,500 miles on my truck and have averaged 14.3 mpg since day 1.  That is 2 mpg better than my 2014 Raptor got, similar driving cycle.  I don't drive for mileage, but if I did I think I could add a couple mpg to my stats.   

Posted

Forgot to mention, I’ve got a lifted truck, 33” KO2’s and a 6.2, I get consistent 19-20mpg @70mph highway speeds and 12-14 city.

My last 2014 5.3 gave 15-17 mpg highway and 3-4mpg towing a 7k# trailer.

The 6.2 is a much better fit motor for those that want the max out of their trucks.


Sent from Above

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Replace the fuel pump with an OEM AC-Delco.
    • Hello, first time posting here. I have an 03 Chevy 1500HD with the 6 liter gas engine. The truck ran fine until the fuel pump died on me and had to get it towed. Replaced the fuel pump with a precision pump from O’rileys and changed the fuel filter while I was there. The truck will run and drive now but it wants to idle around 500 rpm when in drive and it tries to stall if you touch the gas. It drives fine though, just doesn’t want to idle. Put a fuel pressure gauge on the rail and only have 50 psi. I guess these trucks should have 55-62 psi to run right. I thought the regulator might be the issue because when I would unplug the vacuum hose it jumped to 56 psi. Replaced the regulator and no change. The only thing I can think of is that I was sold a faulty fuel pump. Any help would be appreciated because I’d rather not have to take the bed off again if I don’t have too. Thank you!
    • I've been wrenching on GM trucks for 17 years. And I need to get something off my chest because it's been weighing on me for a long time. After all that time, all those motors, all those people standing in my bay, I've figured out there are really only two kinds of owners. The ones who already know about this. And the ones who are about to find out the hard way. A guy came into my shop a few weeks back in a 2018 Silverado 5.3. Sharp guy, maybe 35. Knew his truck cold. He'd been on the forums, read the threads, done his homework. He only rolled in so I could double-check a little module he'd already plugged in himself. Wanted a second set of eyes on it. Ten minutes, in and out, drove off happy. Two days later, a completely different story walked through the same door. Older fella this time, in a 2016 Sierra. Gorgeous truck, clearly babied, not a scratch on it. Wedding ring. Looked like a guy who took care of his stuff. He was in because his engine had started knocking on the way to work. And by the time I got the valve cover off, I already knew it was too late. Lifter collapsed. Cylinder 5. Camshaft chewed up. The whole top end shot. Same kind of truck. Same motor. Same roads, probably the same dealer. The only thing separating those two men was information. I've been at this since 2008, and I've worked on everything GM puts out. Silverados. Sierras. Tahoes. Yukons. Suburbans. Escalades. The 5.3 and the 6.2. Doesn't matter which badge is on the tailgate. They all carry the same problem. So here's the information one of those guys had and the other one didn't. It's called Active Fuel Management. AFM. GM started building it into their V6s and V8s back in 2007 to squeeze out a little better mileage on the highway. Maybe a mile or two a gallon. All to hit government fuel economy numbers. The way it works, the motor quietly shuts down half its cylinders when you're just cruising along. And the little lifters that pull that off have a tiny pin inside them that's constantly clicking in and out. Lock, unlock, lock, unlock. Hundreds of times a drive. Thousands of times a week. Eventually one of those pins wears through. The lifter drops. And it starts grinding the camshaft down like a chisel on butter. And what nobody tells you is that the shudder you feel around 40 or 50 mph? That's the system cycling. Every single time. Here's what really gets me. The pre-2007 trucks, the ones without AFM, they're bulletproof. I've got customers still daily driving them with 260,000 miles on the odometer. Not a problem in the world. GM took a perfectly good motor that would have lasted a lifetime and bolted this system onto it. And it is wrecking engines that should have run forever. The guys who hang around the forums already know all of this. So do the techs. They handled this years ago. They didn't sit around waiting for the dealership to mail them a warning letter, because that letter is never coming. It's the guys who figured somebody would've told them who end up on my lift. And I want to be clear, because this part matters. Maintenance has nothing to do with it. I've torn down motors with barely 30,000 miles on the clock. I pulled apart a Tahoe last summer with 24,000 on it. Practically a brand new truck. Owner had it less than a year. Spotless oil. Best synthetic money can buy, changed early every time. Made no difference. I've seen guys with full dealer records, every interval stamped. Made no difference. The oil changes were never the problem. The pin was. And no amount of babying that truck stops that pin from cycling every single time you drive. That's the part that eats at me. These are good motors. Take the AFM out of the equation and a 5.3 or a 6.2 will run 300,000 miles and never blink. So a few years ago I started telling every single owner who comes through my doors the exact same thing the smart guys already knew. Get yourself a FullForce disabler. It plugs right into the port under your dash. Couple of seconds and you're done. It just tells the computer to leave every cylinder running, full time. No more cycling. No more beating those lifters back and forth every time you turn the key. It doesn't reprogram anything. Doesn't touch your tune. And unplug it before a dealer visit and there's absolutely zero trace it was ever installed. I've had customers come back at 40,000, 60,000, 80,000 miles after I put one in. Zero issues. The trucks run smoother. And the lifters aren't getting beaten to death every single drive. I won't sit here and tell you it's magic. A lifter that's already damaged is a lifter that's already damaged, and this won't un-ring that bell. But it takes away the one thing causing all that wear in the first place. That's the whole game. You don't need a five-thousand-dollar delete. You don't need an expensive tune. You don't need to tear anything apart. You just need to stop the cycling. I'm not writing this for any company. I'm writing it because I'm tired of watching the guys who didn't know pay four and five figures for it. I'm tired of being the guy who has to break the news. I'm tired of knowing that the guys who did know fixed the whole thing for the price of a tank of gas, and the only difference was that somebody told them first. If you drive a Silverado, Sierra, Tahoe, Yukon, Suburban, or Escalade from 2007 or newer with a V6 or V8, you've got AFM. You've got those lifters, and they're cycling every single time you drive. So be the guy who already knew. Not the one I'm scraping metal out of next month. EDIT: A bunch of folks asked, so here it is. The one I put my faith in is FullForce. This is where to find it: https://www.tryfullforce.com/products/fullforce™-afm-dfm-disabler They back it with a 60-day guarantee too. I've handed out more than I can count and not one's ever come back to me. Not one. See less
    • Thanks for following along. I'm not author material, my tenses are all over the place and an editor would have a heck of a time cleaning up after me. Reading and writing is still a fun pastime though.   My new scanner came in yesterday, wow, where the heck has this thing been?! It connects right up to the Blazer, there's all kinds of bidirectional tests like EGR activation and percentage, toggle the fuel pump relay, EVAP purge valve, IAC control, AC relay, reset the transmission's adaptive learning, toggle shift solenoids and TCC lockup, and I can reset fuel trims with the click of a button...all things I could have used over the last 60 days!   It's also telling me there is a stored code in the ABS module for front left wheel sensor open and something about the brake switch. The ABS dash light works. It illuminates normally during the self-test at key on/ start and that's it. I cleared the codes and will see if they set when I take it out later. That, and I'm going to get (hopefully) real data on timing and cam ******. The PID's are there.   I connected the tool to my truck...holy smokes. Newer vehicles make early OBDII vehicles look like 8-bit, pixelated, early Nintendo stuff. This? This is like wearing 3D virtual reality goggles playing one of those elaborate, cinematic video games with seasons and plots in comparison. There are SO MANY modules and SO MANY tests and SO MUCH data. There's a scanner sequence for filling the coolant...   End of the day, it's a tool with way more power than I need, but the versatility to do old and new is there (and I need an adapter to connect it to my OBDI Camaro). It will allow me to do the first pass of diagnosis when out-of-warranty vehicles need help, and it will enable more DIY maintenance like brake system bleeding, ABS bleed, etc. I probably over-bought here, but, mission is accomplished.   Enjoy your Sunday...I need to shut this machine down and go get ready for the week ahead.
    • Not that I've read, after all the issues they've had in the past I'm pretty sure they learned their lesson. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...