Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted (edited)

If it vibrates more than the other dozen or so trucks I have owned over 37 years why should I now be putting weight in the back.

Because it is professional grade?

Edited by pm26
Posted

Goodyear tires

 

The engineer relayed through the GM Rep that they were having problems with the stock Goodyears. He said that the way they are made the get knocked out of balance very easily. The tires are a known issue with GM.

 

My issue had little to do about the tires, I had Nittos put on as part of the truck purchase. Although I had them Road Forced I had issues later. I always thought the front end felt like it dragged. I asked for an alignment at 3000 miles, GM finally agreed to do it at 12000 miles. It was out of alignment, now the tires have a bit of uneven wear.

This post gives me hope. I'm definitely going through with the alignment appointment on Friday.

 

Also the temperature dropped this evening and the tire pressure held around 35psi driving home from dinner.....truck felt much better. I'm really hoping it's the tires. Id rather drop the money on tires to fix it than spend the next 2 months letting the dealer throw parts at the problem and never find anything.

Posted

My vibration is about gone by throwing parts, if they will do it let them.

 

Ride is best if you do not exceed the recommended pressure.

 

I will probably go with nitrogen once I get the vibration issue resolved.

Air is air, but if it helps keep the air pressure constant I think it would help with the ride on the tires I have.

Posted

My vibration is about gone by throwing parts, if they will do it let them.

 

Ride is best if you do not exceed the recommended pressure.

 

I will probably go with nitrogen once I get the vibration issue resolved.

Air is air, but if it helps keep the air pressure constant I think it would help with the ride on the tires I have.

I (supposedly) have nitrogen in mine and I'm not impressed honestly. I don't notice any difference in performance or maintaining psi over my old truck which had air in the tires. It seems like just a gimmick to me but who knows maybe it's the tires haha

Posted

Update on my vibration issue.

 

Dealership decided to order a new propeller shaft (driveshaft). We will see how that works. I spoke to the service lady and she explained that warranty parts are held for 30 days then scrapped. I asked her to let me know when 30 days from the replacement was up and I wanted to take the shaft to a balance shop to have it checked out. She did not have a problem with that. Now if I can find out the residual imbalance for the shaft, I do not have a reference print to go off of. If anyone knows a tolerance, datum(s) that are used in production it would help. If not, I will just try to gather imbalance and total indicated runout.

Posted

Still could very well be the driveshaft. I was going to get mine balanced after the tires but no need now. The other truck had a brand new complete rear end installed and no change at all so I doubt it's the rear end. Put your truck in 2wd instead of auto and see if it makes a difference ? Maybe it could be shitty shocks unable to stabilize the rear end at highway speeds as well

 

They are actually about to repalce the shocks on mine. Front wheel bearings were not an issue as they previosuly thought. Im pursuing a buyback so I honestly dont care what they do at this point and if it fixes it. No idea what Im going to swap it for.

Posted

This post gives me hope. I'm definitely going through with the alignment appointment on Friday.

 

Also the temperature dropped this evening and the tire pressure held around 35psi driving home from dinner.....truck felt much better. I'm really hoping it's the tires. Id rather drop the money on tires to fix it than spend the next 2 months letting the dealer throw parts at the problem and never find anything.

 

Get the dealership to do it at their cost. They had an alignment done at an independent shop on mine. Also RF balanced the tires at an independent shop.

Posted (edited)

 

Get the dealership to do it at their cost. They had an alignment done at an independent shop on mine. Also RF balanced the tires at an independent shop.

 

Well it's not certain that the alignment is off or causing any problems so there's no reason they would do it for me free of charge. They road force balanced the tires last time for free, but from HDNithawk is saying that's a futile effort with these tires that constantly get knocked off balance. Plus road force balancing didn't make the problem go away completely. I think it's just crappy out of round tires.

Edited by Silverado-Hareek
Posted

For you guys who say that it's the tires, it's not. I replaced the tires on mine and the problem did not go away. I just went between stock to aftermarket back to stock and the problem continues. People should not be worried about the air pressure in their tires to stop a vibration.

Posted (edited)

For you guys that got buybacks. What did they do about mileage, did you have to pay anything out of pocket. They are telling it may be .35 cents a mile, with almost 14 k miles I'm looking at 5 grand if they do that. Also the msrp has apparently increased 1600 bucks since last October so my same truck is now 1600 bucks more.

 

Add whatever interest I've paid since purchase I'm poised to lose big on this deal.

Edited by Aboothlsu
Posted

For you guys who say that it's the tires, it's not. I replaced the tires on mine and the problem did not go away. I just went between stock to aftermarket back to stock and the problem continues. People should not be worried about the air pressure in their tires to stop a vibration.

Depends on the vibration though. From what we can tell there's about three different types of vibrations being described in this thread and for some new tires is fixing the problem.

Posted (edited)

For you guys that got buybacks. What did they do about mileage, did you have to pay anything out of pocket. They are telling it may be .35 cents a mile, with almost 14 k miles I'm looking at 5 grand if they do that. Also the msrp has apparently increased 1600 bucks since last October so my same truck is now 1600 bucks more.

 

Add whatever interest I've paid since purchase I'm poised to lose big on this deal.

 

Yours should only have mileage counted up until the first time it went in to the shop for the problem. So say it went in at 5k, you will only have to pay mileage for 5k. If you have a good dealer they should be able to help you even more. I wound up getting trade assistance for mine which worked out better than the buy back. They gave me nada value for my "trade" plus I got 4k from GM plus dealer cost on the new one. GM will do whatever they can to not have a buyback and would rather you trade it in so they dont have to have a branded title for reselling purposes.

Edited by hotrodz37
Posted

For you guys that got buybacks. What did they do about mileage, did you have to pay anything out of pocket. They are telling it may be .35 cents a mile, with almost 14 k miles I'm looking at 5 grand if they do that. Also the msrp has apparently increased 1600 bucks since last October so my same truck is now 1600 bucks more.

 

Add whatever interest I've paid since purchase I'm poised to lose big on this deal.

I would get a lawyer if I were you, I did the buy back program and they did not charge me one cent.

Posted

For you guys that got buybacks. What did they do about mileage, did you have to pay anything out of pocket. They are telling it may be .35 cents a mile, with almost 14 k miles I'm looking at 5 grand if they do that. Also the msrp has apparently increased 1600 bucks since last October so my same truck is now 1600 bucks more.

Add whatever interest I've paid since purchase I'm poised to lose big on this deal.

Get yourself a lemon law attorney that doesn't charge you but instead gets their fee from GM. An attorney will protect you from the fees the dealer tries to bs you with.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Couple plausibilities.   - Bent pushrod   - Bad injector   - Roller lifter failed and has been eating the cam lobe(s).     - Broken valve spring   All are options.  Most common that I can recall would be the valve spring (hard to see the break on it as well), the cam/lifter and the injector.  
    • I only have a few of the ACDelco blue remaining. One or two of the (old, old) ACDelco Professional boxes, and a couple of the newer style GM boxes with the simulcast in Chinese along with English. FWIW they've all been pretty good, regardless of where they are made, and in 20 years I've never had a problem with an e-core filter.   Now I have a couple of the "A" series in my home inventory. They come in a plain white box with the GM hologram sticker and model information. Have not installed one yet, want to use up my oldest inventory first.
    • Compression test? Weird noises? Fuel trims?
    • I suspect at some point in the near future, the hardware will be free and you pay a subscription to access the vehicle - alldata style.
    • I've been eyeing an upgrade to my tonneau cover for a bit now.  Intrigued by the BAK MX4 EZ-Lift with the torsion spring and went for the upgrade.  Thoughts and musings during unpacking, install and a few days of usage.   Once my order went into Realtruck, it took about 4 days to ship.  Unfortunately, FedEx Ground destroyed the box and contents and it was unusable upon receipt.  To Realtruck's credit, one email with pictures and an RMA was sent to me to send the first one back, and another unit was shipped out.  It arrived 3 days later, unscathed.   I opened the box and it looked like every other BAK MX4.   Biggest differences are the rails and retaining clamps, and of course the spring attached to the cover itself.     NOTE - if you are upgrading from a MX4 to the EZ-Lift, you will have to replace the rails.  The EZ-Lift rails have a notch cut in them to allow the new style retaining clamps to fit properly.  The new retaining clamps also have 2 knobs/carriage bolts and there are two tracks underneath the front panel. The strap clips are mildly different (more like the Undercover Flex clamps) in that the screws go in from the underside.  Personally I prefer these over the BAK clamps that use the nutserts that are a nuisance to install.  The remainder of the parts in the box (drain tubes, rail clamps, and bumper pads) are standard issue BAK.     I did not replace my front bed seal at the time because it seemed to be in decent shape.   BAK recommends shims on the GM trucks unless you place the clamps on the flanges about 1/3 of the way in from both the front and rear of the bed.  I shimmed the front and the middle, and initially placed the clamps equidistant.  This also turned out to be a mistake, because when I set the cover in place, the new style retaining clamps wouldn't clear the front clamp.   New style clamp inserted in the track:     And the issue which occurred because the front rail clamp was too far forward:     Once I removed the shim from the front of the bed, and slid the clamp back to the front flange, everything cleared fine.     The cover set on the rails without issue and I installed the strap clamps.  After I completed my adjustments, I pulled the pin to activate the torsion spring.  Mistake #3 on my part.  PULL THE PIN AS THE VERY VERY VERY LAST STEP!  The reason is, once you pull the pin, the torsion spring is activated.  If you have to loosen the front clamps and adjust the cover, the front panel will - by virtue of the spring, refuse to lay down.  The only way to get it to lay down so you can reinstall and tighten the clamps is to fully open the panel against the back of the cab, which will then allow the front panel of the cover to lay down and be tightened.  Not a big deal unless you haven't installed the foam pads yet (typically the last step) because minus the foam pads, you will need to place something between the frame of the cover and the back window so it doesn't get scratched.  The next time I install one I will install the foam pads before I pull the pin and activate the spring.   After using it for a few days:   The spring assist is great.  You literally can open it with one hand.  My shoulders aren't getting any younger and this was part of my motivation to swap out. The second panel latches and unlatches itself as you open and close the cover.  Neat in concept, however it took me a minute to get used to closing the cover and not hearing the "latching" sound that would tell me it was locked in place. The paddle handles are a huge upgrade and I wouldn't be surprised to see them become the standard across the Realtruck line.  They effectively eliminate the concern that a thief could coat hanger the cover open and get to the contents in the bed. I'm not sure why the very front panel on my cover has a different finish from the other 3 panels.  I have a request into Realtruck to find out if mine was not manufactured properly or if it was by design.   All in all I'm pleased.  Same level of protection, looks good, keeps stuff mostly dry (they all leak around the tailgate) and easy to install.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...