Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I buy a new truck every year or two after about 25K miles. I got annoyed with a duramax fiasco in '08 and swore off GM trucks. I've had an '10, '12, '14 Laramie CC 4x4 Ram and I never had any issues with them except a leaking third brake light (common, easy fix) and the '12 had a mild low speed vibration in 4wd (common, CV angle). They ride great, nice seats and can easily buy a 50K msrp Laramie for 10 grand off. Downside was the fuel mileage, sucks, especially with the 3.92 'towing' gear. The 6 speed (5 really) and 8 speed transmissions work great - unlike the A6/5.3 mess in the '15 Silverado.

 

I also had a '13 fecalboost Ford for a few months, was able to gte a dealer to buy it back after it almost killed me and my family on a damp rainy day. Be a while before I try another Ford.

 

Nothing is perfect, only reason I tried the Silverado was the recent discounts and it was 'new' in 2014, got a little bored with the Rams where except for the transmission and radio nothing really changed. I wont be buying another, if I was to trade today it would be on another Ram. If you tow watch the max payload on the rams, it gets pretty low on high option trucks and they dont have a HD tow option.

 

FWIW I recently rotated the tires on my '15 Silverado and the 75-80mph vibration that appeared at 7000 miles in now gone. I'm sure it will return but at its worse it wasnt enough for me to get rid of the truck - I've had worse.

What happened with the Ford that almost killed you?

Posted (edited)

So after they put the clamps on my drive shaft it actually cleared up a lot of the vibration. It's now out of the seats but I feel it in the steering wheel and floorboard. So they ordered me a new drive shaft and it is in. I take my truck in (#6 visit) on Monday so they can change out the drive shaft. I know some of you have had this done and it worked and others have and it didn't do anything. I'll let all of you know what is does for me after Monday....

Edited by Homer650
Posted

 

Keep us posted, here in the next few weeks I will be truck shopping as well and curious to see what truck you like the most. Are you planning on driving a Tundra?

I hit 5,000 miles on my '16 Tundra, in less than a month. After 5,000 vibration free miles, I decided to install one of the sets of tires I purchased in an attempt to fix my '15 and '16 Silverados. Imagine this, Tundra is now at just under 6,000 miles and it is still vibration free and I'm running 275/55/20 BFG All Terrain K/Os.

 

I will admit that the technology in the Silverado was hands down ahead of the Tundra. I loved the heated steering wheel, the touch screen and the lane departure correction but I couldn't deal with not being able to drive the truck on the highway. Onstar is missed the most, but I won't buy their Onstar FMV as it still supports them. I did drive the F150 (ecoboost and 5.0). It was hard to say no, as I own three Mustangs and consider myself a Ford guy. I only have owned one dodge in my lifetime and didn't care for the look of them, so I didn't bother driving them.

 

I can happily say I no longer look at it as losing $10k+ on a Silverado but I have accepted that I just overpaid for a Tundra.

 

On another note, my revenge will never have any significant impact on GM but my little website has had a few thousand views, most of which are coming from a Corvette forum and then GM Insider. I can also say that I have 27 confirmed people stating they didn't buy a Silverado because of this forum or others that I have posted on. One small dent for GM but one small victory for the little guy :)

 

Have a great weekend all!

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

18,000 Miles on my 2015 Regular Cab Z71. Vibration since day 1.

Vibration at 70 to 75 is enough to say it is unsafe. I am not running factory wheels or tires.

I have the vibration on two completely different sets of wheels and tires.

 

In a couple days it is going to the dealership for the first round of pointless attempts. They are going to do a road force balance. I called 6 dealerships. 4 said they have never heard of this issue, 2 admitted it, and 1 actually said there is no solution. They have had almost every truck sold come back. They have tried everything and not a single truck has had the vibration completely removed. I think Iwill ask them to replace the shocks to see if that helps.

 

I wish I had kept my 2010.

 

I have no other issues with my truck.

 

I want to put a 6" lift on it and 35" tires, but there is no way to safely do that till this is fixed.

 

I have no throttle issues. Turn of traction control and I can spin the 33's.

Edited by frenchsquared
Posted (edited)

I got my truck back today with the 2nd new rear end. The problem created by the 1st new rear end is gone (which basically was the truck vibrated over 65kph). The dealer said no vibration now other than the one you get when in V4 mode and they said they all have that which makes it normal.

So I took it on a freeway test drive and now it's back to where it was before they put the first rear end in. It vibrates at about 125kph. I informed the dealer an they say its due to the Firestone snow tires which don't meet the GM spec. I will upgrade to the suggested Michelins if the dealer will guarantee no vibration so lets see how that goes.

Edited by oneandzero
Posted

Are the crew + 6.5 standard box having issues too?

 

My 2015 regular cab has the issue.

Posted

Has anyone put a 6" lift on a truck with the shake?

Did it get worse?

Did it go away?

No effect?

Posted

This is the exact testing protocol document I mentioned earlier, as long as the dealer will follow it they can figure out the cause of the vibration. Personally I think a lot of this is being caused from how stiff the new trucks are, manufactures are always striving to take the flex out of the frames and make the trucks as stiff as possible before the suspension comes into play. While this is good, it is bad for harmonics as minor harmonics that used to be absorbed by the chassis are now making it thru and being felt by the people in the vehicle.

If you look under a new Ram you will see large rubber isolated iron weights under the cab. They didnt put them there for looks, they are to soak up vibrations at a certain frequency. Some cars have weights on the rear axle housing and near the pinion as well for the same reason.

 

I'm lucky I guess, I had some minor vibration that started after 7000 miles at 75-80mph but after a tire rotation its gone again.

Posted

I was driving my 2nd truck with the GM engineer and his pico machine. He didn't tell me the numbers but said it had 2 vibrations, one in the rear end and one in the tires. Tires are replacement Bridgestones I bought for the first vibrator. He told the mechanic who went with us that they needed to get a Hunter 9700 tire machine. My town is 4500 people, the tire machine he told us was $20,000.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I also had a '13 fecalboost Ford for a few months.

Does this mean it greatly increased the probability of the driver crapping his pants under all driving conditions?

 

Honestly, Ford "Ecoboost" engines are nothing but a marketing scheme. Replacing engine displacement with a turbocharger fails to deliver promised fuel economy. i have read quite a few complaints about lousy mileage figures these engines delivers. I verified this myself. I had a Ford Escape ecoboost rental and it delivered neither power nor fuel economy. A small V6 would have been far better engine in that vehicle. And recommending regular octane gas in a turbo engine is nonsense. You will get neither power nor fuel economy that way.

Edited by pm26
Posted (edited)

i have a 2500hd with slight vibration from under cab! started around 4000 miles, only on slight hill with light throttle. do you have a limited slip rear end?

Edited by badphil7
Posted (edited)

Most of the guys here seem like true enthusiast. I know I am. I actually like the Toyota better. The 5.7 is a beast compared to the 5.3.....thanks to the 4.30 rear end. I get about 15.5 mpg.....who cares with no headaches and countless visits to the dealership. Plus if I choose......Toyota has the hands down best resale.

Only thing I miss about my Silverado is the 110 plug in. I also miss the onstar. I have everything else in my Toyota Tundra Limited that I had in other Truck. The seats are sturdier as well imo. I had the seat track problem In my Silverado as well.....check out that forum. Perhaps it's caused by the vibration. Lol. Just a joke. Just too many issues. I'd still try Chevy again in 10 years or so when Im tired of my current Truck. I'm fairly certain it will be from boredom and not mechanical issues. The truck is just proven.

Good luck to all.

Edited by 1MOGAN
Posted (edited)

well, i drove up to the poconos last night. 140 miles. the vibration comes and goes, its very slight but enough for you to know something is not right. its disheartening to say the least that such a nice truck would be so disappointing to take on a trip but its a lease. i pay 378 a month for it no money out of pocket. this is after the right front tire was rf balanced due to it supposedly being the cause. like others, it changed the frequency of the vibration but didn't quell it.

 

neither my wife nor i travel on hwy for long enough periods of time to fight with gm over a "rented" truck. its most certainly in the rear. pinion or ring? maybe an axle or its the whole housing not in spec. convinced of it. its through the seas and floor. if it gets to the point that i cannot deal with it? then i will go back.

 

 

 

i was in an enterprise 2015 f150 cc 5.0 18" wheels yesterday same stretch of hwy at 75 to 85mph that my truck rides like a nervous teenage boy walking into his first school dance and it was smooth as glass. the water bottle in the cupholder was perfectly still with just about no oscillating water dancing inside, only over rough pavement.

 

i hope gm fixes them when this one goes back in 2018 because i do love everything else about it.

Edited by TonyAllTerrain
  • Like 2
Posted

Does this mean it greatly increased the probability of the driver crapping his pants under all driving conditions?

 

Honestly, Ford "Ecoboost" engines are nothing but a marketing scheme. Replacing engine displacement with a turbocharger fails to deliver promised fuel economy. i have read quite a few complaints about lousy mileage figures these engines delivers. I verified this myself. I had a Ford Escape ecoboost rental and it delivered neither power nor fuel economy. A small V6 would have been far better engine in that vehicle. And recommending regular octane gas in a turbo engine is nonsense. You will get neither power nor fuel economy that way.

 

Na, it just means it was a piece of crap lol. Friggin truck almost killed me twice in the rain when the engine just quit and went into limp mode getting on the highway and making a left turn. Killed the catalytic converters both times as well. Was a common complaint back in '13, they blamed it on moisture in the intercooler. IMO it was spark blowout under high load/boost.

 

But even if it didnt do that, it had all the power of a V6 with the gas mileage of a V8. Unless you drove it like a 90 year old lady it got worse mileage than the Hemi Ram it replaced. It would do OK towing though, very diesel like. And if you look at the 1/4 mile and 0-60 they are supposedly pretty quick but mine was an absolute dog on any octane. I was able to get the dealer to buy it back less the miles I drove - I was never so happy to get rid of any car or truck I ever owned.

 

Mike Rowe got me lol, I went for the gas mileage and it did not deliver at all. I'm sure they straightened it out by now hopefully, but I still wont even look at an ecoboost anything - a NA V8 is just fine for me in a pickup.

Posted (edited)

well, i drove up to the poconos last night. 140 miles. the vibration comes and goes, its very slight but enough for you to know something is not right. its disheartening to say the least that such a nice truck would be so disappointing to take on a trip but its a lease. i pay 378 a month for it no money out of pocket. this is after the right front tire was rf balanced due to it supposedly being the cause. like others, it changed the frequency of the vibration but didn't quell it.

 

neither my wife nor i travel on hwy for long enough periods of time to fight with gm over a "rented" truck. its most certainly in the rear. pinion or ring? maybe an axle or its the whole housing not in spec. convinced of it. its through the seas and floor. if it gets to the point that i cannot deal with it? then i will go back.

 

 

 

i was in an enterprise 2015 f150 cc 5.0 18" wheels yesterday same stretch of hwy at 75 to 85mph that my truck rides like a nervous teenage boy walking into his first school dance and it was smooth as glass. the water bottle in the cupholder was perfectly still with just about no oscillating water dancing inside, only over rough pavement.

 

i hope gm fixes them when this one goes back in 2018 because i do love everything else about it.

 

I am in the same boat, even the same truck but mine is a 2015 All Terrain with a lease. But I do have to brag that I did get it for $285 month and that is why I can't get rid of the GM brand because I can't get near that price in anything else. Got my truck with 11 miles on it and started getting the vibration at 64 to 75mph after like 600 miles and now it is even starting at 45 to 50mph. Love the truck except for the vibration.

Edited by rshad

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • www.enginelabs.com/news/what-i-learned-today-bearing-clearances-vs-oil-viscosities/     www.enginelabs.com/news/oil-viscosity-can-the-numbers-be-misleading/ The Big Lie… Coming full circle to the reason Lake discusses the Porsche engines in particular. Based on the 2000 samples in the SPEEDiagnostix database, increasing the oil viscosity in these engines, even those run on the track, showed no significant difference in results.   The smoking gun was in the oil chemistry. That is where the data shows higher instances of more wear. Molybdenum was the key; the higher the amount, the less the wear. Speed postulates that higher viscosity oils have more thickeners to artificially inflate their viscosity numbers. These thickeners lose viscosity under shear, and the result is that not all oils of the same viscosity have the same shear stability.   Having enough viscosity is the most important characteristic, but according to Speed, once that required viscosity level is reached, additive chemistry matters more than additional viscosity. Speed also states, oil pressure problems on the racetrack aren’t a viscosity problem; it’s an oiling system problem. Running a thicker oil is just a band-aid for an underlying oiling system problem.
    • Can it still be Assembled II?   Viscosity on the decline by various means. Heat on the rise making that worse. Engine RPM in the tank. Smaller motors with more boost trying to emulate an electric motor. Full torque, zero rpm. Then we will triple the OCI. Argh.    But wait....there is more. LSPI has pushed a shift from Ca to Mg and as that cost more PLUS the run to lower sulfur compounds the TBN is moving in the wrong direction for the increased OCI's demanded.    That not being enough to placate a demand for a parameter they can't measure the other sulfur bearing compounds are also under attack. That would be zinc and phosphorus sulfonate compounds. To some degree those are being replaced with boron esters and others, i.e. titanium ect. All of which have shorter service lives. And there there is the "Secrete Sauce" marketing for AW adds that 'Can't be detected by UOA's" but trust me because I (the blenders) never ever lie.    Spoiler alert; ALL additives are sacrificial! Smaller amounts of the old blended with less robust versions of the new do not equal longer service lives. So what are the blenders recommending? Wait for it.......   MOVING THE GOAL POSTS! OMG      Let's declare the long standing TAN/TBN crossover irrelevant and tell people that soot is a great 'graphite' based lubricant which can aid tribo films. Wait, what? Let's declare that the standards used for oxidation and nitration were to conservative and can be expanded. Let's tell them that because GDI fuel dilution, although being a VISCOSITY KILLER and an acid generator is actually okay because we have better base oils that limit viscosity failure limits. (Said knowing this is measured in fractions of a centipoise and in bases not commonly used in shelf oils)   Lying from the heart is not just the new normal but we have a public, a very young public, that is so ignorant of the facts and so sure of their "RESEARCH" into AI driven models base in regurgitated  instead of scientific research based unvarnished, peer reviewed FACTS that the incoming guard is loosing their grip on reality and the OEM's are tickled pink while the blends bend the knee.    You have an ever limited set of tools to work with. And sooner or later those will be taken from you as the API and the EPA strangle the last remaining fluids from the system. What you have left is your wits. If you care to use them.    At some point in the very near future it will not longer be possible to do "What is best for the machine", and be replaced with "The best you have access too". You WILL be rewarded with half the life and twice the cost. That isn't that hard to predict.         
    • I trust you saw the other comment where he knew what he was talking about !. Yes, these darned newer vehicles with all their so smart they are stupid technology, goes and drains the battery down. As you might see my other comment, I installed a Noco 5 battery tender under the hood and at this point still have the cord routed so I have to lift the hood and then plug it in but am typically parked in a garage or a shed so its not risking the engine hood in the wind. That way I am assured or hopefully so of not finding I have a battery drawn down and can't even start the truck and that also damages the battery to draw it down too far. 
    • I guess no surprise my guesses were wrong !, at least now I know if I ever happen to see it grayed out in my own truck as to what is going on.    I never happened to catch my truck with it grayed out, it seemed every time I would test to see if there was an update it never found anything and yet more than once I would check to see if there was an update and there was nothing, then a day later or even that same morning I would drive to town and after more than one engine shut down in town as I did my errands it would pop up that there is an update now ready to install and the only place I have a connection to the internet is at home by wifi so its not as if it grabbed the download while driving. I don't trust these new vehicles due to all the crap they can decide to do while sitting for some days not running and run the battery down so most of the time if I know the truck will sit for a few days I plug in the battery tender I have mounted under the hood and so the only time the truck must have downloaded software was when it was sitting in the garage where the signal is awful but I have that tender plugged in and somehow it managed to download it. I honestly detest all this crap, way to easy to leave a person stranded.    Since I don't trust any of it I don't do the install of the already downloaded software until I get home and sometimes have even sat in the truck to watch what its doing as its going through the process to its conclusion as its not like it is set up that it will tell you the next time you fire up the engine that the update that was initialed actually installed or installed properly. Yes I can go into the updates and see the list. After I go through the install where I feel its safe to do so in case it breaks down as a result, I will plug in the battery tender after the fact to recharge as I don't know how much power its taking just to do the install and that can take a while for it to install. 
    • Thanks for the reply. All settings were correct and the engine was off, as it was supposed to be. It turned out to be something simple. I took a drive for about an hour. I must have had a low battery without knowing it. The voltage gauge on the display looked ok. At the end of my drive, I shut off the engine and the update prompt came up and it updated normally. It’s ironic because one of the features of the update is a reduction of battery drain. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...