Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I recently replaced mine with one I bought off Ebay. part number 85585333. My trucks the 6 speed. I had called local dealer but he wanted over $40 more than an online Chevy dealer so I opted to not buy local.( I always try to buy local). Anyways, my drive to town for breakfast prior to swapping in the new tbv, temps were right at 194-195. After swapping in the new tbv temps were right at 153-154. Truck only has 16k on it and never had the shakes but after reading this thread from start to finish over the past 7 years, I feel good getting this done. It was a simple job, anyone with minimal mechanical skills could probably do this with ease. Next up, swapping in some new fluid.

  • Like 1
  • 1 month later...
Posted

Hey guys, so I have a 2023 Sierra SLE 1500. I only put 11000kms before experienced the vibration/shaking. I thought my transmission was faulty. WOT was smooth af, so I was super confused why the transmission would do this at low RPMs. If this helps anyone I read the U bolts could be the culprit. I had been riding around with 200lbs of sand in the bed for the last 2 months and thought it may be putting too much weight on the U bolts if they are loose. I took out the sand and the vibration is mostly gone. Very slight if anything which I think I felt even when it was new. I am going to take the truck into the dealership to get those looked at and see if they need to be tightened. Would do it myself but I don’t have any tools. Hope that helps as it solved my problem 90%. 
P.S I had a 2021 gmc Sierra sle 1500 aswell after I put sand in the bed, I got the same vibration thinking the tranny was bad. Never connected the dots with this one until I removed it. That truck still left me stranded lol due to a not starting issue multiple times before I auctioned it off. I had replaced the starter on that and it left me stranded again with the same problem lol. 

Posted

I took my brand new truck to the dealership and they said they had to slightly tighten the U bolts to spec. Nothing too bad. But the vibration is totally gone and the transmission doesn’t feel like it’s gonna fall apart. It’s driving like it’s brand new for the whole last week. I think the extra weight in the bed and loose u bolts were the problem. 

Posted
On 8/5/2013 at 5:49 PM, Silver space ship said:

So I got it back from the dealer today and was told they test drove one from the lot and it had the same vibration and possibly even worse then mine. I was told GM admits there is a problem but at this time no solution. I was told to wait until there's a solution or the problem progresses.

It’s the same Transmission torque converter problem they have had for years. I have a 2018 low mileage with the same problem. New or rebuilt transmission is the only solution. GMC has let us down 

  • 3 months later...
Posted (edited)
On 9/29/2023 at 12:19 PM, Ron Cooley said:

It’s the same Transmission torque converter problem they have had for years. I have a 2018 low mileage with the same problem. New or rebuilt transmission is the only solution. GMC has let us down 

Ron, new member here. I’m not sure it is the torque converter. Just had my transmission and torque converter replaced on my 2014 Sierra 1500 SLT 4x4. I still get vibration from around 50 mph to about 75. It gets worse when I apply the brakes. Just had rotors replaced and wheels balanced. Still vibrating! The truck has 143k miles and this problem has only shown up since about 100k miles.

 

had a similar problem a few years back when the truck would shake badly from about 35 MPH and above. I was told it was the driveshaft so I took it to a mechanic in Atlanta who builds drives shafts for NASCAR. He worked on it for about half a day and then reinstalled it. Still vibrated! I took it to the GM dealer in Kennesaw, Georgia where I bought it and they had their transmission shop look at it. Of course, they said I needed a new transmission and torque converter at a cost of $6000. I passed on that and took it to AAMCO transmissions on Cobb Parkway in Atlanta and they fixed it in less than 30 minutes. It only needed transmission fluid! So I’m not real motivated by taking it back to a dealer. 
 

has anyone found what the actual cause is and how to fix it?

 

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Edited by FedUpwGM
Posted
19 hours ago, FedUpwGM said:

Ron, new member here. I’m not sure it is the torque converter. Just had my transmission and torque converter replaced on my 2014 Sierra 1500 SLT 4x4. I still get vibration from around 50 mph to about 75. It gets worse when I apply the brakes. Just had rotors replaced and wheels balanced. Still vibrating! The truck has 143k miles and this problem has only shown up since about 100k miles.

 

had a similar problem a few years back when the truck would shake badly from about 35 MPH and above. I was told it was the driveshaft so I took it to a mechanic in Atlanta who builds drives shafts for NASCAR. He worked on it for about half a day and then reinstalled it. Still vibrated! I took it to the GM dealer in Kennesaw, Georgia where I bought it and they had their transmission shop look at it. Of course, they said I needed a new transmission and torque converter at a cost of $6000. I passed on that and took it to AAMCO transmissions on Cobb Parkway in Atlanta and they fixed it in less than 30 minutes. It only needed transmission fluid! So I’m not real motivated by taking it back to a dealer. 
 

has anyone found what the actual cause is and how to fix it?

 

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

 

I have no doubt GM knows what the cause of the shake is, but they aren't talking. Not talking because the fix is likely both involved and expensive. 

 

Sorry but I have no suggestions on how to fix the shake.

Posted (edited)
On 12/31/2023 at 12:12 PM, Willyone said:

 

I have no doubt GM knows what the cause of the shake is, but they aren't talking. Not talking because the fix is likely both involved and expensive. 

 

Sorry but I have no suggestions on how to fix the shake.

See here:
https://www.tsbsearch.com/Chevrolet/21-NA-199

Chevrolet TSB 21-NA-199.pdf

Edited by MikeBMW
Posted

I joined the forum just to post my resolution to the vibration issue.
Background:
2015 Yukon XL 4WD with a 5.3 and 6 speed transmission. 167k miles. The truck would violently vibrate over 75mph to a point of it being scary.
Vehicle was religiously maintained at the GMC dealer its entire life with regular fluid changes and maintenance.
Issue:
As to the vibration, I have tried every solution in the 857 pages of this thread including new tires, balancing, new trans cooler and lines in the TSB above, flushed transmission several times, new filters, etc and nothing worked.
Solution:
In the end, a reman transmission from GM installed at the dealer solved all vibration issues.
GM = trash.

  • Like 1
  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)

I installed some 2 degree pinion angle shims (fat side facing front) and the wobble/ vibe is 80% gone. I also tried the spring clamp and found with the clamp on the front side of the leaf spring. After the truck rode like a Cadillac, so I'll pickup the Deaver mini pack and shim the pinion accordingly. I feel like the leaf springs twist which is the reason it is worse with 20s. after i got 18s the wobble lightened up.

Edited by Snowcamo
  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

Here is what's going on with the drive train in alot of our trucks.  It may not be the resolve for all, but I am sure just about everyone can relate.  Let me know what you guys think. 

 

 

 

 

Edited by Snowcamo
  • 5 months later...
Posted

Hello everyone, I'm new to the forum. I recently got a 2018 Silverado 5.3 AWD with around 107k miles. Now for my problem. When I start off, I feel a jolt/vibration on the front left for around 1 second. If I start off very gently, I can't feel it. The first thing I did was adjust the track. But the problem is still there. I looked at the axle and suspension on the ramp and couldn't find anything there. You can't feel the jolt from the outside either. Noises aren't audible from the outside either. It's loudest as a driver, as it's also transmitted through the steering wheel. I suspect the left engine mount. During the test, the engine tilted slightly, what do you think? Does anyone know the problem? Thanks.

  • 1 month later...
Posted

My husband is a master mechanic & he can't fix this problem! He has put a new transmission in. He's tried 4 new torque converters. He has flushed and changed the fluid a million times. Tried all the stuff that could go in it & NOTHING WORKS!!! We bought this truck used from a dealership but they were aware of this problem. It can not be fixed & the dealership will not do anything about the problem if it's over 100k. We paid over $25k for this truck with over 200k miles but Chevy trucks usually run for more than 350k miles & still are strong if we'll taken care of. This is a problem & needs to be addressed!!!

Posted (edited)

Goggle chevy shake... search this site for it as well. Best of wishes to you all. I'm really thinking of swapping frames at this point. May as well get a new truck then. Idk.

 

There is no legit one fix all to this issue.

Edited by Snowcamo
Posted
15 hours ago, Crystal 2024 said:

My husband is a master mechanic & he can't fix this problem! He has put a new transmission in. He's tried 4 new torque converters. He has flushed and changed the fluid a million times. Tried all the stuff that could go in it & NOTHING WORKS!!! We bought this truck used from a dealership but they were aware of this problem. It can not be fixed & the dealership will not do anything about the problem if it's over 100k. We paid over $25k for this truck with over 200k miles but Chevy trucks usually run for more than 350k miles & still are strong if we'll taken care of. This is a problem & needs to be addressed!!!

 

My take.... GM and their engineers know what the cause of the shake is but they're intentionally keeping the cause or causes to themselves. Likely the cost of correction is very pricey so GM has decided to evade the issue as best they can, it's cheaper to pay their lawyers. GM is intentionally sticking it up their customers asses. Same with the VVT issue. Expensive to fix so let the customer swing in the breeze.  FWIW my '16 Z71 with just under 50K miles has the vibration, and also appears to have the VVT issue, possible bad lifter on cyl no. 7. I'm 73 yrs old and retired and I can't really afford to buy a new truck at present. I've bought GM trucks most all of my adult life but when the time comes for my next truck, fk'm, it won't be a GM.

 

No doubt GM has folks that monitor this site and they probably get a kick out of the complaints. 

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • probably won't get a response from that user, as they haven't returned to the site since making that one post.  users don't (at least I don't, and I haven't seen any setting which would notify me via say, email) get any notification other than going to this site, and checking if they got a response on their thread...
    • Thanks - I wasn't quite caffeinated this morning. 2:1 makes sense, turning the crankshaft 360 degrees will turn the cam 180 degrees, and had I done that, the cam's dot would be at 6 and the crank's at 12 again.   I went ahead and took the sprocket off anyway, aligned everything dot-to-dot including the balance shaft just for s&g. I'm glad I did because I discovered no Loctite on the timing sprocket bolts. Maybe it's not required, but at only 20 ft-lb torque spec, those bolts aren't in there very tight. Cleaned and reassembled with some thread locker and torqued.   A general observation: Less is more with RTV. If a little doesn't stop a leak, a LOT probably won't, either. RTV is thinly veiled revenge, in a tube...      
    • The timing marks are ok, that is #1, you can turn it over until they line up and it won't change anything, the crankshaft turns twice for every camshaft revolution, I have always set up SB Chevs as your pic shows using a straight edge
    • Someone's been here before.... There is a receipt for a 3-piece timing set, purchased earlier this year.   Is this picture something, or, nothing?   I have the timing cover off and my crank is perfectly TDC and the keyed gear's locating mark is dead on 12 o'clock.   The cam gear locating mark is also at 12 o'clock. Now, I'm not an expert, but all the install guides say the two locating marks should meet and be perfectly aligned when installing a timing set. The mark on the crank should be dead on 12:00 and the cam gear's mark should be dead on 6:00, and both marks should be perfectly vertically aligned.   I believe the timing gear is keyed or has a dowel that ensures it can only be installed on the cam in one position, so I have to believe the cam is out of phase somehow. At the very least, with a triangular bolt pattern, it can only be installed in one of 3 different positions.   Before I pulled the front cover, the truck was running alright, no service engine soon lights except an occasional P0172 / rich condition. Timing -16 timing at idle (should be +16), and total -35% fuel trim, two conditions I haven't been able to figure out.   In related news, my injector tested pretty well, wasn't leaking, but I had it rebuilt anyway, and it's on it's way back to me.         Along with this discovery, the good and bad:   Good: The oil pan seal appears undamaged.   Bad: -The timing cover has been reused, and the positioning dowels have been broken. That could explain some of the leaking. -Some kind of white paste or grease was used to try to seal the oil pan seal and timing cover (since wiped off..). -Then, someone globbed silicone all over the front of the cover and also buried the ckp sensor in it. But, they didn't put any inside the cover or use RTV to try to seal the oil pan seal with the timing cover (good).
    • The guy that owns K&P filters last I checked in with him has over 300,000 miles on his Dodge base Hemi using his own 35 micron absolute stainless mesh filter from its first oil change.    The GM study I've posted a dozen times shows the relationship in engine life based in multiples of base units, not miles or years. That is the base unit is the number of miles the motor ran using the reference filter efficiency.    The above two paragraphs dismantle anecdotal arguments IF one changes oil often enough to prevent particle formation and the motor is in otherwise good shape. That is not full of silica (no air filter) or suffering a metallurgical issue that is not part of the lubrication discussion. Poor heat treat in example.   Data from UOA's I've reviewed from more than a few engines can show remarkably broad variations in oil cleanliness using the exact same filter over the course of an engines life.     Lastly there is the common sense of it. Wear debris WILL circulate the engine BEFORE it ever sees a filter in route to that filter and WILL harm the pump which NEVER sees filtered oil.    Alpha question then becomes, given the facts, how long do you believe is a reasonable service life from a vehicle you are certain you will not pass down? That is the junk yard will be it's resting place when you're done with it? (the moral issue most don't care about).    Omega question is then how diligent are you prepared to be in general mechanical, air & oil maintenance? Preventing particulates and keeping them sufficiently dilute; preventing the precursors from generation, amalgamation and precipitation.    If I get a good look at the engine bay of a vehicle I have a fair idea of the owners commitment to the inside of the power train. That 30 micron WIX is still more efficient than a sieve.                 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...