Jump to content

Seat Movement Issues

jdvaughn

By jdvaughn
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

ChevyBrad1500 Enthusiast

ChevyBrad1500

Posted
Posted

I just did the hose clamp fix, took 10 minutes and cost $2.00. I didn't buy the electrical clamps to get the rubber pieces from, I just used a piece of rubber shrink wrap or you could use a piece of old bicycle inner tube. This really works! I've had it to the dealer for this problem, new clips were installed, seat movement was back in 1 day. The hose clamps are the best. GM needs to fab up some black clamps similar to hose clamps for a fix and do a recall. I wonder if the new F150 will have similar problems and recalls.....I'm betting paint peeling will be a big problem for the aluminum and the start stop will have problems.

I just did the hose clamp fix, took 10 minutes and cost $2.00. I didn't buy the electrical clamps to get the rubber pieces from, I just used a piece of rubber shrink wrap or you could use a piece of old bicycle inner tube. This really works! I've had it to the dealer for this problem, new clips were installed, seat movement was back in 1 day. The hose clamps are the best. GM needs to fab up some black clamps similar to hose clamps for a fix and do a recall. I wonder if the new F150 will have similar problems and recalls.....I'm betting paint peeling will be a big problem for the aluminum and the start stop will have problems.

  • Replies 1.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

hotrodz37
hotrodz37

So I was able to solve the seat movement issue as a few others with hose clamps. I bought 2 - 1" hose clamps, and 2 - 3/4" rubber clamps and slid the rubber off of those and onto the hose clamps. I bu

GMC-AT
GMC-AT

whatever... I'm sure 2013 Chevy was perfect and had no issue. I'm sure your 1996 Ford is also perfect and never had any issues ... The truth is that every car/truck, every year has it's issues. Th

tanner709
tanner709

Thanks for this.   Just re-quoting for all the new members because I spent about 20 minutes trying to find the fix, with pics.

Posted Images

Silverado Steve Senior Enthusiast

Silverado Steve

Posted
Posted

I had the seat TSB done last week. Too bad the tech who worked on my truck tore up the interior door panel, B pillar and door sill while taking the seat out. Now i'll be waiting weeks for those part to come in for them to have to take the seat back out to replace the B pillar trim. Sounds like the hose clamp way is the most stress free, easy and assured way to fix this problem.

  • Like 1
snarkee Senior Enthusiast

snarkee

Posted
Posted

To save me time reading this whole thread, I had the seat bottom movement on my 14 silverado. It was fixed prior to ditching it for my current 14 sierra

 

My sierra has developed the seat bottom movement now but there is also movement on the seat back. Is the seat back a known problem area too?

johne Enthusiast

johne

Posted
Posted

Just noticed mine was crooked yesterday. Already have to go back for repairs they failed to perform correctly last time anyway.

V Op New Member

V Op

Posted
Posted

Good evening all! I own a 2014 Sierra Denali and unfortunately encountered the same seat movement. After reading some of the discussions I did have my dealer install the clips for my seat (the service advisor knew exactly what I needed and ordered the parts in advance). The fix did not work though. I made sure the clips were installed and noted the technician inspected for possible weld breaks also. I read in a discussion how an owner installed 2 clamps on the front rail to restrict the clips and thus the seat front shifting from side to side. I picked up a couple of clamps from my hardware store and installed them on the round tube the seat is attached to placing them snug against the outside of either clip. Worked! It's been over 2 months now without any shifting or noise of any sort. I've been a happy camper since.

 

I'm sure GM will come up with a more elegant solution, but in the meantime....

 

Cheers!

dkramer Enthusiast

dkramer

Posted
Posted

I just did the hose clamp fix, took 10 minutes and cost $2.00. I didn't buy the electrical clamps to get the rubber pieces from, I just used a piece of rubber shrink wrap or you could use a piece of old bicycle inner tube. This really works! I've had it to the dealer for this problem, new clips were installed, seat movement was back in 1 day. The hose clamps are the best. GM needs to fab up some black clamps similar to hose clamps for a fix and do a recall. I wonder if the new F150 will have similar problems and recalls.....I'm betting paint peeling will be a big problem for the aluminum and the start stop will have problems.

I just did the hose clamp fix, took 10 minutes and cost $2.00. I didn't buy the electrical clamps to get the rubber pieces from, I just used a piece of rubber shrink wrap or you could use a piece of old bicycle inner tube. This really works! I've had it to the dealer for this problem, new clips were installed, seat movement was back in 1 day. The hose clamps are the best. GM needs to fab up some black clamps similar to hose clamps for a fix and do a recall. I wonder if the new F150 will have similar problems and recalls.....I'm betting paint peeling will be a big problem for the aluminum and the start stop will have problems.

What page is the hose clamp fix on? Are there detailed instructions. I am having the same problem with my seat. Scheduled to go in Monday to be looked at.

 

Thanks

Dave

Tacofarmer Enthusiast

Tacofarmer

Posted
Posted

I have noticed a lot of folks posting issues with their front seats moving. I have the same problem. Dealer has no idea what to do about it. He said that he would report the issue what ever that means?

ChevyBrad1500 Enthusiast

ChevyBrad1500

Posted
Posted

The pics of the hose clamp fix is on a post about 2 pages prior to this page. I don't recall a positive dealer fix for the movement. The hose clamps work. It's a five min fix.

pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted (edited)

What does the hose clamp do? Attach the seat top to the frame? What a hosed design!

Edited by pm26
Smoothbassman Enthusiast

Smoothbassman

Posted
Posted (edited)

So I was able to solve the seat movement issue as a few others with hose clamps. I bought 2 - 1" hose clamps, and 2 - 3/4" rubber clamps and slid the rubber off of those and onto the hose clamps. I butted them up against the inside of the two white clips on the front of the seat rail. As you can see below the clamp doesn't but up against the entire clip, just the white part protruding at the top. I kept trying to get it right against it, and didn't realize until I took the picture that the white part sticking out was what it mated up against.

 

eza4ehap.jpg

 

evyjy9eb.jpg

 

Here are the parts that I pulled the rubber off of to go on the hose clamp:

 

http://www.ultimategarage.com/frontpage-images/ABARubberClamp1.jpg

 

So far so good and this seems to be a fix until GM comes out with a better one or if they don't, it will remain permanent. Hope this helps anyone who is having this issue!

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Post 278 guys. This is what it looks like.

 

Works perfectly!!

Edited by Smoothbassman
iDominate Enthusiast

iDominate

Posted
Posted

Just starting to notice this clunk thing that everyone has talked about in the last week. I also like to sit with the seat raised up. The noise only happens when i go around a corner it seems. If it continues, it looks like I will be doing this garage fix as well.

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted

Going to buy the clamps tomorrow.

 

I've got a buddy coming in town this weekend but I'm definitely doing this hose clamp fix next weekend. My seat shifting is getting worse and the dealer is f*****g useless.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Needing this part.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Looks like it's riveted to me. What is wrong with that 1? Welcome to the Forum!
    • Grumpy Bear
      Some Assembly is Required

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      Missing pieces of the Assembly   Detergency vs Solvency   Not the same thing. Detergency is the mechanism that surrounds solid particulates preventing amalgamation. Usually accompanied by a Dispersant whose job it is to keep those encapsulated particles in Suspension. Solvency keeps things that can be dissolved in solution.    Salt is a solid that can be dissolved. Pepper is a solid that cannot be dissolved. A detergent/dispersant is effective on pepper but a solvent is more effective on salt. As long as the solids remain in either state, dissolved or dispersed then they can be be removed with the oil upon change.    How many wranglers does it take to herd cats? Depends on how many cats your herding. How much sponge does it take to soak up water? How much water is there to soak up? Point is most oil blends start with some herding ability and next to zero sponge and recently even fewer wranglers are being sent to do the same job.    So you start with a dozen cowboys and zero cows but at the drive progresses you pick up cows along the way, but not cowboys. At some point you have more cows that the wranglers can handle and some leave the herd. Deposits. And the API has an acceptable number of cows they are willing to let loose. In the ideal world zero is the right number for he rancher but to the butcher....a few lost is fine. This cow is beat to death. Let's move on....   Solvency isn't something oils on the Walmart shelf care about AT ALL. Problem is, you motor does. Fuels driven varnish sticks rings and only a solvent can keep them in check. The bet is that the solids driven portion that plug the expander rings and the oil drain backs and VVT screens and AFM screens will be an issue long before varnish is. Not that it wont be but if they market well enough the consumer can be kept ignorant enough to either believe it is "normal" (A quart in 1 or 2K is normal) OR is kept at bay longer than the first owner is likely to hang on to the unit. Solvency cost money.    Now the OEM's have John Q. Public buffaloed into the belief that the number cows accumulated along the trail is a known and predictable CONSTANT. It isn't. Nor is the rate at which they crossed paths with them. Only the number of wrangles is constant. Or was. Each new generation of oil sees fewer and fewer of them.    So what happens when the number of cowboys is lower (lower TBN) with each seasons trail but the trial is longer (OCI) and the number of cows along that trail continues increase? (Conditions that promote deposits).    For awhile the blenders were on to something. Better bases are harder to degrade (fewer cows) but that was overtaken by a longer trail (OCI) and improved breeding (More cows) while continuing to reduce the cowboy staffing levels (TBN/Aniline #).    Marketing has been successful. We've fired most of the staff, cows breed line bunnies, the trail is ten times longer and we've convinced the boss his ranch is in better shape that it ever was.    That kids is just the cleaning side. The side few pay attention to.     
    • davester
      Needing this part.

      By davester · Posted

      hit a junkyard.
    • Z45
      PF63 Oil Filters Going Away?

      By Z45 · Posted

      Mann+Hummel since 1941 per their web site 
    • B07
      Needing this part.

      By B07 · Posted

      Looking for this part for my truck. They don't sell just that one piece and to get it you have to pay over $100 even used for the whole air tube. The piece the hose clamp snaps into that is held on by the screw and nut. If anyone has access to one please let me know.

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...