Jump to content

Seat Movement Issues

jdvaughn

By jdvaughn
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

M J Enthusiast

M J

Posted
Posted

Same issue on a 2016 with 4600 miles. Physically showed the tech after he couldn't hear/feel anything. Hour went by and they concluded they couldn't reproduce the results...

 

It's literally bad enough to move the seat with your hands pushing left and right at the base. I mentioned the PIT5542 document and he said that wasn't the correct format for their TSB.

 

 

He's going to research it and let me know if he finds anything...

Let me know what you find, as I am going to be going in for the same issue as all of you. Is this something GM is covering outside of bumper to bumper warranty?

  • Replies 1.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

hotrodz37
hotrodz37

So I was able to solve the seat movement issue as a few others with hose clamps. I bought 2 - 1" hose clamps, and 2 - 3/4" rubber clamps and slid the rubber off of those and onto the hose clamps. I bu

GMC-AT
GMC-AT

whatever... I'm sure 2013 Chevy was perfect and had no issue. I'm sure your 1996 Ford is also perfect and never had any issues ... The truth is that every car/truck, every year has it's issues. Th

tanner709
tanner709

Thanks for this.   Just re-quoting for all the new members because I spent about 20 minutes trying to find the fix, with pics.

Posted Images

Chevii355 Enthusiast

Chevii355

Posted
Posted

They just did the clamp/zip tie on mine and I'm doubting it will work, I have 750 miles on my 2014, yes you read that right 750, got so disgusted I parked it in my garage and left it sit. Going back this morning to have the B pillar trim panel replaced because it got scratched taking the seat out of the truck. Seriously tired of all the recalls over the years and I used to work at Delphi in Engineering so I had to answer the quality issues then from manufacturing but that is apparently a dead art. GM is turning a deaf ear to this stuff, I'm ready to buy a Honda Ridgeline. I have purchased 6 new trucks off of GM and I think this will be my last. No excuse for this problem to be all the way into the 2016 trucks and the fix I watched happen on my truck is a joke.If GM is reading this how about you offer to take this truck back?

The mechanic I have is excellent, dealership incredible, they all are trying very hard, GM is not and the only surveys I get are about the dealership which has nothing to do with design flaws. You have 6 sigma and Shanin red X experts on your staff perform a root cause analysis, look at your DFMEA and PFMEA and fix things!

Texas Sandman Enthusiast

Texas Sandman

Posted
Posted

I traded my 14 LTZ in due to all of the recalls and the quality of their fix for the seatbelt recall, they used a knife to cut out around the cable they needed to install where attached by the door. Then I got another recall for the airbag, I didn't have enough confidence in their repair methods to allow them to execute the recall so I traded it in with 32000 miles on it. I did not enjoy opening the door and looking at the hack job given to me as a fix and I've never traded in a truck still under the factory warranty before. Kind of sad when you spend 50K on a truck and get the type of treatment I experienced. Research showed mine was made in Mexico and I wonder if that may have been part of the problem along with it being a first year of a new product. Hopefully I won't experience that again.

  • 3 weeks later...
pm26 Senior Enthusiast

pm26

Posted
Posted

I traded my 14 LTZ in due to all of the recalls and the quality of their fix for the seatbelt recall, they used a knife to cut out around the cable they needed to install where attached by the door. Then I got another recall for the airbag, I didn't have enough confidence in their repair methods to allow them to execute the recall so I traded it in with 32000 miles on it. I did not enjoy opening the door and looking at the hack job given to me as a fix and I've never traded in a truck still under the factory warranty before. Kind of sad when you spend 50K on a truck and get the type of treatment I experienced. Research showed mine was made in Mexico and I wonder if that may have been part of the problem along with it being a first year of a new product. Hopefully I won't experience that again.

The root cause of most of issues that you have experienced is insufficient quality control, both at parts manufacturing phase and during the vehicle assembly phase. Manufacturing vehicles in other countries often makes it more difficult to enforce adequate quality control, even if it is in place.

  • 1 month later...
dave07 Enthusiast

dave07

Posted
Posted

My 2015 Silverado 1500 built in August of 2015 is starting to exhibit this issue. I will mention it at my next oil change.

Epsilon Plus Enthusiast

Epsilon Plus

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'm about to go out to the garage and crawl around the problem and see what I can determine. Hoping to conjure up a fix. 2016 with 12,000 miles. 3 position cloth bench with no cooling/heating...etc. Been doing it since probably 5,000. If they redesigned the seat to fix this as mentioned in this thread, then they didn't do a good job or I got a leftover 2015 seat since my truck was built November 2015.

 

Doesn't seem like a lot of internet info about 2016+ fixes.

Edited by Epsilon Plus
Epsilon Plus Enthusiast

Epsilon Plus

Posted
Posted

Its really tough to get an idea of whats going on down there. Lots of rivet style attachments which could mean if any of them weren't done perfectly tight they could have a little play with no ability to use a driver or socket to tighten. The seat cover looks like it grips the assembly with press fit style slip over clamps. Looks easy to change out the seat cover if needed, but I noticed a slight popping play in the right side on one that could be causing the issue.

 

The hard part is that you can generally rock and beat the crap out of it with your hands while parked and the whole thing seems solid. Hop in and take one turn and CLICK you slide to one side. Another hard part to nail down is that if I move the seat controls around and find a different position it usually gives a temp. fix to the whole thing but always shows back up. Again, looking under the seat and grabing and shaking the crap out of everything, it all feels really solid. They way it pops and slides when I'm sitting in it would make you think and obvious loose point would be easy to find.

 

All of this is likely why dealers have such a hard time trying to fix it. The techs are trained in auto repair and such but they are just regular Joe's like us so expecting them to be power driver seat track fitment experts is a stretch.

 

I'll keep messing with it and try to get to the bottom of it. I'd rather not dock my truck in some long wait line at the dealer just to have it looked at and just to have them say they can't fix it. That's a last resort if I can't manage to fix it.

Epsilon Plus Enthusiast

Epsilon Plus

Posted
Posted

Took it out for a drive after all that hand massaging I gave it and its rock solid still. I know it won't last forever, but man it's making it hard to track down. The only thing I can think of is it is the entire seat track assembly and the rivets used to fasten it. I can foresee GM having to replace my assembly in order to cure it. They might have had a bad batch of seat frame fitment QC go through or something. Difficult all around to track down. If I ever fix it or get it fixed, I'll update.

Uknow87 Enthusiast

Uknow87

Posted
Posted

Mine was fixed by the dealer about 3000 miles ago, still no issues. I posted a pic of the SB and # for it a while back.

Epsilon Plus Enthusiast

Epsilon Plus

Posted
Posted (edited)

This looks like a GM doc dealing with the issue and lists all years of K2XX up to current (2017).

 

Its a locked doc (cant copy/paste) but describes that for 14-15, retainers were designed to stop the movement. For 16-17, a new welded bar was added that was supposed to stop it. It goes on to say that regardless of year, they couldn't get their shit together and developed a hokey way to fix it by trimming the seat pan and installing another retainer part. It's all in the doc, pics and all. Print it out and take it to your dealer.

 

Attached.

PIT5542.pdf

PIT5542.pdf

PIT5542.pdf

PIT5542.pdf

Edited by Epsilon Plus
  • Like 1
ToesonTheNose Enthusiast

ToesonTheNose

Posted
Posted

any other at home fixes i tried the wire tie that lasted a few months and now im back to popping and clicking and getting pissed off in my 14

Ngs428 Enthusiast

Ngs428

Posted
Posted

My 3 year warranty expires on Friday. I am experiencing this seat shift issue with my 2014 silverado. Should I just install the hose clamps or should I take it to the dealer for their fix? The hose clamps look fairly fool proof.

 

Thoughts?

Epsilon Plus Enthusiast

Epsilon Plus

Posted
Posted

Take it to the dealer and have them do the PIT listed above.

 

It involves trimming the seat pan and installing a GM part.

 

If you miss the warranty, try the clamps.

 

My seat is currently behaving so I haven't brought it in yet. I expect they will turn me away if it isn't in obvious mode. If I can't get them to bite, I will do the full procedure myself and buy the part from my favrite GM part supplier. Who knows, I may just do that anyway. I'm not fond of anyone except me touching my vehicles in any fashion.

Ngs428 Enthusiast

Ngs428

Posted
Posted

Take it to the dealer and have them do the PIT listed above.

 

It involves trimming the seat pan and installing a GM part.

 

If you miss the warranty, try the clamps.

 

My seat is currently behaving so I haven't brought it in yet. I expect they will turn me away if it isn't in obvious mode. If I can't get them to bite, I will do the full procedure myself and buy the part from my favrite GM part supplier. Who knows, I may just do that anyway. I'm not fond of anyone except me touching my vehicles in any fashion.

I just put the hose clamps on at lunch hour yesterday. Working well so far. Knock on wood.

Epsilon Plus Enthusiast

Epsilon Plus

Posted
Posted (edited)

^^^^^^

Good luck with the fix. Hope it works.

 

 

After looking at the picture and reading the PIT again, it looks like the trimming is done on the retainer part they use, not the seat pan. Looks fairly easy to modify and install.

 

I'll end up doing this one myself and posting pics here. Ordering the part today. $2.24 part.

Edited by Epsilon Plus

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • TrueBlue
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By TrueBlue · Posted

      I gotta say, I'm enjoying your narration. The troubles you've been having are amusing as you describe them. It's good to see that you're finally getting some satisfaction out the old beast though.
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • Grumpy Bear
      The Peckish Synapse

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Vu1can
      Bridgestone vs Goodyear tires?

      By Vu1can · Posted

      Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • davester
      Broke Down on the Mountain

      By davester · Posted

      maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...