Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

I made a post way back when on this thread, probably 6 to 8 months ago when the dealer fixed mine. It's been about 6000 miles since the fix I think, and the click is coming back now.

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Just ordered a retainer off ebay...worth the $3 to not make a trip to the dealer. Thanks guys for the info, hoping it fixes my seat movement!!

 

 

Did my install the other day, took ~10 minutes. You do not need to use any sort of 'death wheel' to cut this. Pair of snips and done, the material is soft. Solved my issues, we'll see as a rack the miles up if its a long term fix.

Posted

I know this is mainly a topic of the seat moving, but mine has a creaking noise that comes from the back right corner of the seat when driving. I think it has to do with the springs in the seat. It is absolutely annoying to drive. It is a 2015 crew cab with 39,000 miles. Does anyone have any idea what is causing this and what can be done to fix?

Posted

After my return to the dealer after the part came in, they replaced the entire seat track(clips wouldn't work they said) and I haven't had an issue for a couple weeks. We'll see.

 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

Posted

After my return to the dealer after the part came in, they replaced the entire seat track(clips wouldn't work they said) and I haven't had an issue for a couple weeks. We'll see.

 

Sent from my SM-G935T using Tapatalk

 

How long did it take them to do it? Dealer ordered my seat track replacement, just waiting for it to come in.

Posted

 

How long did it take them to do it? Dealer ordered my seat track replacement, just waiting for it to come in.

 

My appointment was at 7:30 AM. I didn't get out of there till almost 11 AM. Might be better to drop it off.

Posted

Mine would stop moving laterally if I lowered the seat all the way down but then it was too low for my liking. My solution (so far) was to raise the rear of the seat by installing 5/8 inch thick shims/washers and longer bolts where the seat bolts to the floor and leaving the seat powered all the way down. Much better than having the dealer jack around with it.

Posted

Just at dealer (here in Michigan) to get my 2014 done - $235 labor and a $5 part........they had to keep the truck overnight to inform me of costs. No thanks, I'll do it myself!

Posted

Just at dealer (here in Michigan) to get my 2014 done - $235 labor and a $5 part........they had to keep the truck overnight to inform me of costs. No thanks, I'll do it myself!

 

 

WHAT!! $235 in labor only to do the retainer clip?!

Posted

Drop my 2016 off at the dealer for the second seat frame replacement in 18k miles.

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

save yourself $230 and do the hose clamp trick...

I did this a long time ago. No more issues.

 

Bootleg but effective.

 

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

  • Like 1
Posted

I did this a long time ago. No more issues.

 

Bootleg but effective.

 

 

Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

Whats the hose clamp trick?

 

Sent from my SM-G935P using Tapatalk

Posted

Just a question so the black retainer one per seat, goes on the white clip that is on the side without the seat motor, by the door?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • I'm not sure if this should be a new topic, let me know if it's out of place. This my first post. Thanks 85077522 - AC Delco GM Genuine Parts Brake Master Cylinders. Anyone else had to replace this brake master cylinder yet. I didn't do any brake work, it looks like new parts and I've had the truck for about 4k miles, 119k total miles.  When it started to throw codes I did the calibrations with a bidirectional scanner and got the codes to clear but they came back so I did the routine; base bleed, automated bleed and final base bleed. All that with Bosch ES16-32N fluid (please look it up). That seemed to fix it but 100ish miles later it failed again so I ran the same process but with a pressure bleeder this time and got the same results, fixed for 100ish miles. The original fluid looked bad and I thought I got most of it out, it could've been the wrong fluid. The codes; P25A2, C05B0-00, C2A1B. I can get them to clear but not for long. The C05B0 indicates a leak in the front circuit (which is bone dry) so I'm thinking of doing the bleed process on that front again today and I don't know if that's taboo to just do the front but at this point it seems like it's worth the try anyway. The new master cylinder/module unit is supposed to get here today. But now I'm pretty much convinced this install is over my head. I've called several shops and some mobile guys that I know but this thing is like radio active material, scary wise. I did get 2 local shops say they should be able to do it, one says he has the SPS2 programing capability. And with the battery disconnected is there supposed to be pedal resistance, mine is to the floor, then if I pump it I can get some resistance. I had a panic stop prior to this issue which may have contributed from what I read. And on the first attempt to bleed and hydraulic test the scanner listed things to look for and one was any gaps between the pad and rotors which I did notice on the RF corner and I removed the outer pad (where the gap was) cleaned it and the hardware and didn't see a gap after that but will re-check it. I read that if pushing the caliper pistons back then you're supposed to open the bleeder so as to not push fluid backwards into the abs module or it will damage it. If that's true then that's also a possibility from the previous owner having the brakes changed before I got it. I'm using an XTool ip500 scanner. Any suggestions, questions and comments welcome. 
    • Next Friday will be my 6 week point from my right knee replacement.  The surgeon says it will be fine if I choose to drive after this checkup.  I know I could drive now but best to do as my surgeon (and my wife) tell me.  Richard compared being 62 to 72.  I remember when I was in my early 60's I was experiencing slow but regular decline in my mobility.  Thanks to good medical support,  i continued to fight the speed and spread of this decline. During my 60's I worked on non-surgical methods and just when I turned 70, my orthopedic surgeon recommended joint replacements.  In a little over a year, I had one shoulder and both knees replaced.  This hasn't been a terribly fun experience, but worth the discomfort as my future mobility health trajectory has reversed.  It is a treat to now be watching my mobility. balance and confidence steadily improve!
    • Grommets with the right cement should be perfectly fine. 
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...