Jump to content

Seat Movement Issues

jdvaughn

By jdvaughn
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

 Share

Recommended Posts

sti Enthusiast

sti

Posted
Posted

I just told them about it when I made my oil change appointment. They looked it up in the system and took care of it.

  • Like 1
  • Replies 1.1k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

hotrodz37
hotrodz37

So I was able to solve the seat movement issue as a few others with hose clamps. I bought 2 - 1" hose clamps, and 2 - 3/4" rubber clamps and slid the rubber off of those and onto the hose clamps. I bu

GMC-AT
GMC-AT

whatever... I'm sure 2013 Chevy was perfect and had no issue. I'm sure your 1996 Ford is also perfect and never had any issues ... The truth is that every car/truck, every year has it's issues. Th

tanner709
tanner709

Thanks for this.   Just re-quoting for all the new members because I spent about 20 minutes trying to find the fix, with pics.

Posted Images

zert100 Enthusiast

zert100

Posted
Posted

You guys that have had the most recent seat fix, do you just tell the service rep what the PI# is that you want done or do you tell them your seat moves and bla, bla, bla? I just want to make sure when I go in for an oil change soon and I address this, it gets fixed correctly. Especially since I have the PI.

 

I gave them a copy of the PI and they ordered the parts. It was pretty painless. They also ordered the headlight bulbs for that update as well

  • Like 1
carthman Enthusiast

carthman

Posted
Posted

I gave them a copy of the PI and they ordered the parts. It was pretty painless. They also ordered the headlight bulbs for that update as well

Do you have a copy you can post and/or send me?

c0ld29 Enthusiast

c0ld29

Posted
Posted

Do you have a copy you can post and/or send me?

 

(Unless it has been updated more recently) It is PI1376 and document number 4032264. The following link has all other info including parts needed. Just giving my dealership the PI and document number they were able to pull it up and get the correct parts.

 

http://vitalysmobileautodiagnostics.com/6522/front-seat-lateral-movement-andor-click-type-noise-while-driving-2015-gm-vehicles

carthman Enthusiast

carthman

Posted
Posted

 

(Unless it has been updated more recently) It is PI1376 and document number 4032264. The following link has all other info including parts needed. Just giving my dealership the PI and document number they were able to pull it up and get the correct parts.

 

http://vitalysmobileautodiagnostics.com/6522/front-seat-lateral-movement-andor-click-type-noise-while-driving-2015-gm-vehicles

Thanks!

 

Sent from my phone using some app!

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted

Well I made an appointment yesterday to get my front bumper alignment fixed and the seat movement issue fixed. The service rep knew exactly what I was talking about with the seat and said they had fixed some trucks already so that was reassuring. I'm hoping everything works out that I can get all of this work done in one visit to minimize trips to the dealer. They're a great dealer but a little out of my way which is difficult with my work schedule.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

jdg24 Enthusiast

jdg24

Posted
Posted

I scheduled mine for the second time. They scheduled me for the 18th and said I need a loaner car since they will have to keep it a few days. I had it "fixed" last year and its doing it again worse this time. I'm hoping this works.

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted

So there is a fix for the seat? Thank goodness mine clicks every time in make a right or left hand turn

Mines getting worse and starting to click in the foreword and backward direction now when I accelerate and brake....

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

c0ld29 Enthusiast

c0ld29

Posted
Posted

Mines getting worse and starting to click in the foreword and backward direction now when I accelerate and brake....

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

What did your dealer actually do? Do you have the new clip and shim installed?

Silverado-Hareek Senior Enthusiast

Silverado-Hareek

Posted
Posted

 

What did your dealer actually do? Do you have the new clip and shim installed?

I haven't done anything yet. It goes in next week to get the first repair attempt done. When I took it in a year ago for this issue, they said they couldn't find anything wrong and I just lived with it since....

fl cracker New Member

fl cracker

Posted
Posted

I had my 14 back 5 times for the to get it right. Last time they added a shim kit that keeps the pad stationary. Everybody thought the seat frame was moving when it's actually the pad shifting side to side. Seems to be doing ok now.

chevy666 Enthusiast

chevy666

Posted
Posted

I had my 14 back for the third time, once for shims and twice for rail kits. The first rail kit was worse than the stock one and now the second one seems to be working. What a joke this has been, all I need now is to get the rattles in the dash fixed and flash the updated software in that piece of crap mylink stereo. I would not buy this truck again!

  • Like 1
mafd2 Senior Enthusiast

mafd2

Posted
Posted

I had my 14 back for the third time, once for shims and twice for rail kits. The first rail kit was worse than the stock one and now the second one seems to be working. What a joke this has been, all I need now is to get the rattles in the dash fixed and flash the updated software in that piece of crap mylink stereo. I would not buy this truck again!

I thought I had a dash rattle and through the forum, I learned it was a clip in the sunglasses holder. I would've bet it was from the dash. I popped it out (it serves no purpose) and "voila" the rattle was gone.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Declaring victory would upset the demons that possess this Blazer, so I won't. But I did make progress today--after it put up a fight. Always a fight.   I had the day off so I spent the morning cleaning up the shop and I thought I'd get ahead of things by filling the cooling system in prep for the final part I needed to arrive: the driver's side knock sensor. Glug, glug, glug....and then the unmistakable sound of liquid hitting the shop floor. It induces the same chagrin when the sonar and targeting laser temporarily malfunction during a late night bladder evacuation over the toilet with the bathroom light off. D'OH!!! That made a mess...   Oh, hey, that knock sensor I removed? It threads into a wet port. Who knew?! Learn something new every day. Put a pin in that chore, I'll fill it the rest of the way later.   The knock sensor arrived at about 1pm. I threaded it in, connected the wire, filled up the coolant, checked for leaks, and... drumroll.... fingers crossed for a perfect start, excellent timing, model fuel trims, and ...no squeaks... Here goes.....   No, it didn't start. At all. I cranked it a few times and it wasn't sounding good. Furthermore, I heard leaking again. Jesus H Tapdancing Christ, stop leaking all over the dang floor. This time I had accidentally overfilled the coolant reservoir and the churn of the water pump via cranking caused a bit to burp out. Ok, just, breathe... Put the flamethrower down. Dang thing wouldn't burn anyway, leaks too much...   Did you know the rotation of a round crank sensor in a round hole, matters? I do now. Took me about half hour to retrace steps and realize what I had done. Then it started right up.   No squeaks. The squeak was the old balancer.   Once it entered closed loop, fuel trims are dead on, hovering right around zero at idle. No more -30%. I'll credit the injector rebuild on that one.   Timing? I think there's an OBD 1.5 translation error with my Actron scanner. It's anywhere from -20 to -30 at idle, sometimes as high as -40 cruising. Sorry, the engine just isn't running that smoothly at -40 degrees ignition advance. It's just not. It's smooth all through the rev range and has decent power. I'm going to have to trust the seat of my pants on this one.   The new exhaust is very quiet. The old catalytic converter? Not melted, but definitely not healthy. Rains glitter when you turn it on its end...all the precious metal is flaking out. Once the new exhaust system burned in/smoked off a bit, the engine's exhaust smell is normal again. Not that I'd recommend going around huffing car exhaust, but, you know what I mean?   One problem to correct. The new exhaust has the opposite problem of the old spliced up exhaust. It wants to hit the floor where the old one wanted to rest on the cross member. Happy medium, please? Still noodling on that one, need to look at how I can adjust some hangers.   I don't know what's next. On one hand I want to run away from this thing as far and as fast as I can -- there have been a lot of NOT fun moments. On the other, now that it kinda drives nice, maybe drive it around for a little bit?   Shhh... it's not currently dripping oil all over the floor. I can see just a little wet at the bottom of the timing cover where it meets the oil pan seal. It's not dripping multiple drops with every ignition cycle, in fact, after some driving this evening it has yet to even form a drop that could drip off yet. But the weekend is young... I fully expect this could turn into Exxon Valdez by Sunday. Because this Blazer hates me. LOL.      
    • Grumpy Bear
      The Peckish Synapse

      By Grumpy Bear · Posted

      About that:   Once upon a time in a land far far away lived a car company that was shy about taking your money and wanted to be sure that they gave you more that you asked for so that you'd come back. No really, not a fairytale. 😱   But after the field got thinned out enough to limit the competition it seemed good enough to give you only what you asked for. Fair enough I say but in such a market you have to give something the others are not or they go to the one who does. Gimmicks or glitz. Oh, fins and chrome. Yea, shinny crow like cars. Yum.    Field narrows a bit more and 'brand loyalty' becomes a thing and the minute it does they start thinking to themselves, "Could we make more money if we gave them less than they expect and they will hang in there for brand and comfort with the known?" They gave it a try and da*n, it worked!!    Well, what if we teach them, groom them into believing that less is "Normal" and cut some more corners. Will that work? Oh heck yea!    🤔 I wonder, can we give then WAY less than they expect and make them mad enough to spit nails and STILL get them to pay up? Sure, if we get everyone else to do the same so that the choice is less or nothing at all. How would be do that? Platform sharing.  What a concept, right?  Steal like there is no tomorrow and it's legal too!    Truth is no one is going to give up driving, not for very long. The Gen Z crowd is fine with it and will be as long as someone not Gen Z will haul them around. At some point we all die.    Economic voting only works if you cast a NO vote now and again and enough of them to get dumb and dumber to wise up. Well, that's how I was taught anyway. And it should have worked. Would have worked. But the Bail out!!   Look, you have another choice if  you take that bag off your head. If the dumb it down to some predetermined expectation of how John Q Public will use it the, that is under design it to failure they you use it to a lower stress mode. D'ho!    A 1950 Royal Enfield Bullet 500 will go anywhere a Suzuki Hayabusa will and for just as long. But you will have to treat it for what it is and not for what you wish it was. 
    • Vu1can
      Bridgestone vs Goodyear tires?

      By Vu1can · Posted

      Maybe I was just too unlucky, but I had nothing but bad luck with Bridgestones. Out of 3 sets, they all started losing a lot of air when they got down to about 1/2 tread life, and at that point also wet traction suffered more than it should have. Also, the only tire I ever had in my 60 years of driving that had a side wall blow out was a Bridgestone.   I'm currently running Goodyear Wrangler Workhorse AT and am very happy with them.   
    • davester
      Broke Down on the Mountain

      By davester · Posted

      maybe when the trip is over, check all the other joints in the front end, like all the ball joints, tie rods, pitman & idler arms, etc...
    • Carlos Eduardo Silva
      adding 360 surround view, UVI (Trailer Camera) package to UVS (Surround/invisible Trailer) Upgrade 2020 Silverado RST

      By Carlos Eduardo Silva · Posted

      Thks, and actually it was my bad, because here in this post there is someone showing the correct wire position as well. My bad... But thank you a lot with the help as well. I was able to find and buy a 10 channel VPM that came from a sister silverado of mine. The same year, same mode, same trim, same everything. 2022 Silverado 1500 LTD LTZ (pre-refresh). I also found to buy just the bottom mirror part that has the cameras, so way cheap than the full mirror. + a used front camera. I did test everything together, cameras, cables and the VPM.... everything worked EXCEPT my original Bed camera and the backup grid lines. I think the reason is because now I need to do the VPM reprogram. I sent a msg White Automotive & Media Service to confirm that it is the problem and that they can do it service for me case.   Once I get it 100% done I will post here result....

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...