Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Just picked up my truck from my local GM dealership to deal with the flaking undercoat/rust issue. Not only did they clean it and respray the entire underside of the truck, but they also re-sprayed the interior fabric protection as well. There was nothing wrong with this, but they decided to do it. Thought they handled this issue very well. They think the flaking/rusting may have started when someone put the truck on a hoist while the spray had initially just been applied; could have been at the dealership or factory, they don't know. Doesn't matter - They made things right!

Before and after pics?

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Looks like they are just spraying over the rust? I'm a little skeptical that the shops are cleaning the metal, prepping it, and then spraying.

 

I hope I'm wrong..

Posted

Looks like they are just spraying over the rust? I'm a little skeptical that the shops are cleaning the metal, prepping it, and then spraying.

 

I hope I'm wrong..

 

 

They sent it to a local company to clean and prep the metal prior to re-spraying it. The first image I posted was the "before" shot, and the other three were the "after."

  • Like 1
Posted

 

 

They sent it to a local company to clean and prep the metal prior to re-spraying it. The first image I posted was the "before" shot, and the other three were the "after."

That's a little more reassuring. I did the Krown rust protection on my 2016, and opted into the dealership corrosion kit - because it was the only way they would cover the paint. I'll keep everyone posted as I live in the worst climate ever where we use excessive amounts of sand and sand on the roads here.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

Anyone find a DIY solution for folks out of warranty. What product are people using? I'm not going to take the bed off.

Posted

Do you folks have success with the Nox-Rust for touching up spots? I'm proud of my '15 frame, it looks great after 2 VT winters. (My 2010 frame was completely peeling and rusting all over by 30k miles) The only trouble spots are from where the dealership puts it on the lift. I'm thinking about spot sanding the rust and either spraying oil, chassis saver, or getting some Nox-Rust. Wonder what the best option is?

Posted

Had the local dealer redo mine. They did the frame and that looks nice but all the suspension parts still look crappy. Better that it was though, I don't plan on keeping it more than a few years anyway.

  • Like 1
Posted (edited)

I bought my 2014 a few weeks ago, 50k miles, it was bought new up North before me. I didn't even think to look under the truck until this past weekend. The whole frame is rusted or spotted with rust. Wondering what I should do about it if anything... I didn't buy it at a Chevy dealership, but could I take it to one to see what they say? It's not a new truck so I dunno if TSB or whatever applies, haha.

Edited by Jadis
Posted

I would buy a wire brush kit you attach to a cordless drill, clean off as much rust as you can, then paint over with permatex rust stopper or similar product. Then finish with a zinc infused black spray paint. You will have to do annual touchups but your frame will look brand new forever. Don't bother with replaceable components like suspension. They will be replaced eventually.

 

The Daubert NOX rust works great to touch up the frame, but spray paint is more durable against rock chips etc.

Posted

Also a putty knife works great to scrape off the existing wax garbage if it's already a lost cause to save. I can only recommend the NOX Rust 121b if you only need to touch up small portions. If the frame is a lost cause just wire brush the hell out of it and paint it

Posted

I bought my 2014 a few weeks ago, 50k miles, it was bought new up North before me. I didn't even think to look under the truck until this past weekend. The whole frame is rusted or spotted with rust. Wondering what I should do about it if anything... I didn't buy it at a Chevy dealership, but could I take it to one to see what they say? It's not a new truck so I dunno if TSB or whatever applies, haha.

I don't think it matters where it came from, it's still going to be rusty. I bought my '14 in November last year with 33k miles. Previous owner was a border patrol officer here in Texas so he always drove his govt. vehicle. Mine still had rust on the frame that I sanded off and painted with rust oleum.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Posted

What type of sanding did you do? Type of paper and what not?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Hi friends - first time poster. I have a 2015 sierra Denali with 150k miles, I’m the second owner and she’s given me 75k of great service. I run a pulse AFM disable device. Starting Thursday when I exited the freeway after a short local ride it started idling rough, with an obvious misfire shake and was down on low end power.  I got it home and hooked it up to my scannner and found no codes but in live data a pretty bad misfire on cylinder 5. I replaced the coil, plug and wire with all new OE replacements (Delphi gn10165 coil, acdelco wire and 41-168 plug). It’s still behaving the same way after firing the parts cannon at it.   I know cyl 5 is a non AFM cylinder so I am not thinking this is AFM related but I’m kinda at a loss. injector? Bent pushrod? It’s running too well over 1k rpm to suggest those IMO. Has anyone chase this issue before and what was it? Any suggestions? 
    • 2017 Silverado L83 5.3l 6speed transmission Hello, not a new member but havent posted in a while and my old signup info isnt working so had to create a new account. anyways, I have an issue with my truck and hope someone can spread some light on whats happening: -when it goes to 4cyl mode it makes a clunk sound (but not when coasting or going downhill) -when in 4 cyl mode and under load it makes a load pulsating sound (not a tick). -goes away completely when in M5 gear or when plugging in an AFM delete. Im guessing it is one of 2 things but im not convinced of either to be honest. 1. lifter stuck in v8 mode 2. torque converter shudder realistically it doesn't seem like the TC as there is no physical vibration , and it never happens in v8 mode. but maybe? and wouldnt a lifter make a sound whether with load or not? any ideas let me know please. thank you!  
    • Which has made me wonder with the various engine failures of a few brands in the last few years, is it sub par materials such as lifters etc causing failures, or bearing clearances on the crank etc or perhaps bad designing of an engine physically or causing too much load on the components due to the hp/torque they can push out of them. Or is the oil viscosity and additive package of current oils or a lack of oil flow by an oil pump not able to supply sufficient oil at idle or under high load at low rpm. Or is it every item I listed that combined together has pushed the limits so far to the left that there is hardly a margin of safety left and add in some fuel dilution and too long of an OCI and premature engine failure is the result ?. 
    • He is not saying that an SAE *W20 will have more viscosity than a *W40 due to MORE VII polymers. He is saying that although multiple *W40 may post in the PDS the same or similar 100 C and 150 C viscosities that the blenders choice of modifier TYPE and AMOUNT to get his chosen base to grade will not give identical real world viscosities in shear and at temperature. All will pass the SII test but not all will pass the 100 C HTHS (unpublished value) testing the blender does and relies on to get the required by law "percentage improvement' referenced to his last great work.    Tis the problem with the lie. Once told others are required to support it. 
    • I have a `25, 1500 that auto sets on incline. Never knew that at first. I have the electronic shifter. Just think if it didn`t do that? Unlike a mechanical shift that you can muscle out of park, how would you get this thing out? That would be a problem.   What I found out later is, I don`t have to push the button to release. Just put it in gear.   Setting parameters? Don`t know if it`s possible.
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...