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I haven't sprayed mine with oil in two years...2012, 90k miles, Pennsylvania rust belt...that pict is from today. If you want them to last, take matters into your own hands. Cost me less than $20 for the sprayer, I use drain oil from the trans, power steering, and differentials. There are also guys that will oil undercoat locally for about $50.

I tried fluid film, it washed off in a lot of spots within one winter. The wax coat shriveled up and peeled off in a lot of spots after the fluid film was sprayed.

I have owned vehicles that were Ziebart coated, that worked ok, but eventually that caused rust since they only coat certain parts with wax, the rest is a traditional undercoat that traps water.

I've used QuakerCoat by Quakerstate, it did alright but is pretty thick and I don't even know if it's produced anymore.

The only thing I have found that works for me is oil undercoating. Once it traps some dirt/dust, it builds a body that remains wet...that becomes your undercoating. It's not pretty, it's not clear, and it's obviously not for everyone...I don't have this truck to show, I have it to work.

Again, just my experience. YMMV.

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My frame looks nearly identical to yours and I've done nothing but spray Fluid Film on it. No shriveled up factory wax like you describe. Fluid Film and the oil you sprayed on operate on the exact same principal. You're applying an oxygen/water barrier. Not sure how you washed FF off, unless you washed your truck with hot water. The label says not to wash it with water hotter than 140F. But hey, used oil is just as good as FF. Atleast you aren't wasting you time sitting at the dealer getting the factory wax reapplied.

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Fluid film will wash off, not sure if it's the salt used by DOT or what, but I've used the thin version (sprayed myself) and the commercial version (sprayed by a dealer), both trucks (and the car) had dry frames/undercarriages by the spring where ever they encountered road spray. My dad's truck looked like we had sprayed nothing at all and was just as rusted as if we hadn't sprayed it at all.

 

This truck within a week of being sprayed lost probably 25% of the wax coating, large areas shriveled up, then flaked off. Could it be the original application of the wax coating was flawed? I don't know. All I do know is that after spraying with Fluid Film, the coating on MY frame shriveled and peeled. By spring, the fluid film was almost nonexistent.

 

While I use used gear/trans/PS fluid, I don't use used motor oil.

 

Again, my experience. Not saying it doesn't work for most, just didn't work for me.

 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Have you talked directly with Fluid Film to see what they say?:

888-387-3522

 

http://www.fluid-film.com/

Nope, had it sprayed on a virgin truck, it washed off, so I went back to my method...no reason to spray it over something that works. I gave it the college try...on a brand new, clean, truck...

 

The nearest dealer (at that time) is in Maryland, over two hours away; it wasn't worth going back to complain or have it "touched up" (read: completely resprayed) every year.

 

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Fluid film will wash off, not sure if it's the salt used by DOT or what, but I've used the thin version (sprayed myself) and the commercial version (sprayed by a dealer), both trucks (and the car) had dry frames/undercarriages by the spring where ever they encountered road spray. My dad's truck looked like we had sprayed nothing at all and was just as rusted as if we hadn't sprayed it at all.

This truck within a week of being sprayed lost probably 25% of the wax coating, large areas shriveled up, then flaked off. Could it be the original application of the wax coating was flawed? I don't know. All I do know is that after spraying with Fluid Film, the coating on MY frame shriveled and peeled. By spring, the fluid film was almost nonexistent.

While I use used gear/trans/PS fluid, I don't use used motor oil.

Again, my experience. Not saying it doesn't work for most, just didn't work for me.

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Considering every GM truck with the factory wax left untouched has peeled off, it's a safe bet that your dad's truck was going to peel off anyways. Mine was peeling a coupled months after after I bought it, well before I started spraying it with FF.

 

I thinks it's all in your head. Toyota guys have been using it for years to keep their Tacomas from rust rotting. Same with the county highway departments, they sprayed their plow trucks every year.

Edited by HondaHawkGT
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Yeah, my dad's truck was a Dodge with an ecoat frame...different animal. Mine is a wax coat...and the shriveling happened within a short period of being sprayed with Fluid Film. I've sprayed more than one car with Fluid Film, have you?

 

Again, it did not work for us...it's your money, if it makes you feel good spending that kind of $$, good for you. I can spray my truck for next to nothing in an hour for the same effect.

 

Have a nice day. I can't add anything more than I have...so I'm done with this thread.

 

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Edited by sdeeter19555
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Yeah, my dad's truck was a Dodge with an ecoat frame...different animal. Mine is a wax coat...and the shriveling happened within a short period of being sprayed with Fluid Film. I've sprayed more than one car with Fluid Film, have you?

Again, it did not work for us...it's your money, if it makes you feel good spending that kind of $$, good for you. I can spray my truck for next to nothing in an hour for the same effect.

Have a nice day. I can't add anything more than I have...so I'm done with this thread.

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Been spraying the same 1 gallon can of FF for the 3rd year in a row now. My frame looks no different than the pic you posted of yours. Like I said, similar outcomes because they operate on the same outcome. It's not as though FF will make the shitty factory wax peel and the petroleum oil won't. The factory wax shrivels and peels because the factory wax is crap, not because you sprayed it with some sheep wax. Keep the peeling spots treated with old oil or FF and your're protected for a winter season. BTW I haven't washed my truck once during the salty winter season, other than a quick spritz or two with cold water.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Updated Nov. 12, 2016 4:17 p.m. ET

Toyota Motor Corp. has agreed to pay up to about $3.4 billion to settle claims that certain of its trucks and sport-utility vehicles lacked proper rust protection, leading to premature corrosion of vehicle frames.

The agreement is a substantial financial setback at a time when the Japanese auto giant’s record-breaking profit streak has slowed in recent quarters as a strong yen dents its performance. The company also is part of a broader group of auto makers facing plateauing retail sales in the profitable U.S. market.

The deal, filed in U.S. District Court in Los Angeles this week, settles litigation in two states over problems with Toyota Tacoma trucks from model years 2005 to 2010, Tundras from 2007 to 2008 and Sequoias from 2005 to 2008.

 

Once approved, consumers will be entitled to an inspection of their vehicles and ultimately replacement of its frame if the car is found to have the faulty rust protection. Car owners who already have replaced their frames will also be reimbursed.

Court documents peg the cost of inspection to Toyota under the accord at $90 a vehicle and to replace each frame at $15,000.

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Hey guys. Just starting with this trouble with my Sierra. Bought it new last year and only have 17,000km on it. Called GM Canada and they investigated and called back. At this point I'm being told to not do anything to it and dealer will not touch it until they find a permanent fix. So they are looking into a permanent fix but no time line yet. This will blow if I have to expose my frame to road salt before I can do anything to it without cancelling chances of getting the fix from GM.

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JerryCanada, one technique you may want to use with your dealer is to visit the dealer and state 'winter will be here soon along with all the road salt. Are you planning to do the re-coating of my truck BEFORE the salt is put on the roads as I don't want the corrosive salt on my rusted frame?' If they say no permanent fix is available yet, you need to say 'So, you are telling me to go ahead and let the salt get thrown up on my uncoated frame?'

 

The idea is to force them to say yes and 'accept responsibility' for any salt damage because they won't re-coat your frame. Usually the dealer will not want to say they will accept responsibility so they will, reluctantly, agree to do a fix right away and fix it again when the permanent fix is available. While this does not always work, it's worth a try. Should they say 'yes' (they are okay with accepting responsibility) , then ask that person for their full name and let them see you writing that down along with the date and what they said - they may change their mind when they see you documenting what they said.

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I don't have a problem with the frame, but the rear axle has light surface rust on the shock mounts and diff cover. I live in S Fla. And haven't seen salt

There is plenty of salt in the air anywhere near coast all over Florida. That coupled with high humidity causes rapid rust formation all over.

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

 

"Lets stop selling cars with tires already on them!"

 

:lol:

 

but seriously.. remember under hood lights? They get deleted in every body style. I dont know if my 14 even has one.

 

The only time I've seen things get BEEFIER in GM trucks was between the 67-72s where the frame components became thicker and thicker as time went on.

 

That makes me add another thing on my accessories list.

-Hood light.

 

Thanks! :D

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