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Rusting Frame

HOTTWIN

By HOTTWIN
in Troubleshooting & Recalls

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300 Blackout Enthusiast

300 Blackout

Posted
Posted
You said rubberized coating spray. Any rubberized coating used to cover metal will trap moisture completely rusting out the frame. Look into the Marine Grade Primer and Paint, excellent results

Look at the MSDS and you’ll find out what it actually is... asphalt and solvents. https://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/248657.pdf The professional version is a different composition and contains Styrene-butadiene copolymer rather than asphalt, so yes, that one has rubber.

 

I’m sure the marine products you listed are great. I’ve done a lot more with these frames than most. Preparation for painting is an absolute nightmare. You will not be able to prep properly without removing the frame from the vehicle.

 

The best rust preventative he can do is Krown or similar products and continue to maintain it every year. Other than the Krown, everything else is cosmetic. The Krown will be sprayed over whatever he chooses to top coat the rust with. This is a maintenance issue now and as long as he keeps poking around under there every year and treating what he finds, the truck and frame will be fine. I wouldn’t spend a lot of time or money painting it unless you plan on removing the frame from the vehicle for proper prep.

 

13349ac1093865cc8373bba2b90716c9.jpgd582561a3141bff2650b900534e72e03.jpgb46f6b7a956854f184560e0a70673b68.jpg7ec12cbbe58c7f9d2833b82843ba459a.jpg

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Jim Prufrock
Jim Prufrock

Ok, I am new to this site but as a GM tech who has been pushed too far, its time the truth came out! I know for a fact in the northeast, there is a service bulletin #PI056E: and its titled wax coating

OldHobo
OldHobo

That's not acceptable! Looks like it was done by a blind man. I'd be back there demanding to know why they had the truck for 3 days and that's all they accomplished. I sincerely doubt it's GM's fault,

pm26
pm26

Well, now you see the GM manufacturing trend for these trucks. The idea is to produce a comfortable vehicle with a car like ride, silent interior, and loaded with gadgets. This is bound to impress t

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TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted
Look at the MSDS and you’ll find out what it actually is... asphalt and solvents. https://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/248657.pdf The professional version is a different composition and contains Styrene-butadiene copolymer rather than asphalt, so yes, that one has rubber.
 
I’m sure the marine products you listed are great. I’ve done a lot more with these frames than most. Preparation for painting is an absolute nightmare. You will not be able to prep properly without removing the frame from the vehicle.
 
The best rust preventative he can do is Krown or similar products and continue to maintain it every year. Other than the Krown, everything else is cosmetic. The Krown will be sprayed over whatever he chooses to top coat the rust with. This is a maintenance issue now and as long as he keeps poking around under there every year and treating what he finds, the truck and frame will be fine. I wouldn’t spend a lot of time or money painting it unless you plan on removing the frame from the vehicle for proper prep.
 
13349ac1093865cc8373bba2b90716c9.jpgd582561a3141bff2650b900534e72e03.jpgb46f6b7a956854f184560e0a70673b68.jpg7ec12cbbe58c7f9d2833b82843ba459a.jpg

I see what you’re saying, there’s s video online that shows how badly rusted his frame was underneath a thick rubber coating but this one is much better. [emoji1303]


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300 Blackout Enthusiast

300 Blackout

Posted
Posted

I see what you’re saying, there’s s video online that shows how badly rusted his frame was underneath a thick rubber coating but this one is much better. [emoji1303]


Sent from above

I know what you are trying to caution him about and it is definitely worth bringing up. People take their truck in to Zeibart or similar companies where a thick coating is applied and they think they are set for life. Then 5 years later they find a heavily rusted frame hiding under a pretty black shell of undercoating.

I can appreciate your concern and agree that it’s for good reason. The main thing is he realizes it’s never going to be a “one and done” solution and will always require maintenance, which it seems like he realizes based on his original post.
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TXGREEK Senior Enthusiast

TXGREEK

Posted
Posted

I know what you are trying to caution him about and it is definitely worth bringing up. People take their truck in to Zeibart or similar companies where a thick coating is applied and they think they are set for life. Then 5 years later they find a heavily rusted frame hiding under a pretty black shell of undercoating.

I can appreciate your concern and agree that it’s for good reason. The main thing is he realizes it’s never going to be a “one and done” solution and will always require maintenance, which it seems like he realizes based on his original post.


Great that you’ve posted this, great job!


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ShamrockShooter Senior Enthusiast

ShamrockShooter

Posted
Posted

Thanks for all the advice. I know many people that swear by zeibart, but I do not particularly care for all the black goo on every part of my truck. Definitely going with the Krown. Just need to experiment a bit on the cosmetic side.

 

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Rock1500 Senior Enthusiast

Rock1500

Posted
Posted
Look at the MSDS and you’ll find out what it actually is... asphalt and solvents. https://www.rustoleum.com/MSDS/ENGLISH/248657.pdf The professional version is a different composition and contains Styrene-butadiene copolymer rather than asphalt, so yes, that one has rubber.
 
I’m sure the marine products you listed are great. I’ve done a lot more with these frames than most. Preparation for painting is an absolute nightmare. You will not be able to prep properly without removing the frame from the vehicle.
 
The best rust preventative he can do is Krown or similar products and continue to maintain it every year. Other than the Krown, everything else is cosmetic. The Krown will be sprayed over whatever he chooses to top coat the rust with. This is a maintenance issue now and as long as he keeps poking around under there every year and treating what he finds, the truck and frame will be fine. I wouldn’t spend a lot of time or money painting it unless you plan on removing the frame from the vehicle for proper prep.
 
13349ac1093865cc8373bba2b90716c9.jpgd582561a3141bff2650b900534e72e03.jpgb46f6b7a956854f184560e0a70673b68.jpg7ec12cbbe58c7f9d2833b82843ba459a.jpg
How long did it take to do that and what is roughly the cost?

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300 Blackout Enthusiast

300 Blackout

Posted
Posted
How long did it take to do that and what is roughly the cost?

The top picture is my original frame. The second picture is after I removed as much rust and wax as I could then I painted it with POR-15 and the Rust-Oleum Rubberized Undercoatings.

The third picture is a brand new frame as delivered by GM and the forth is after that frame was powder coated.

If you already have all the tools, then to fix the rust like I did in the second picture will cost you about $100 in materials and paint. I went slow and was meticulous. I spent probably 30 hours of actual work. There was a fair amount of trial and error. It probably could have been done in 8 hours if I knew exactly what to do from the beginning.

To replace the frame and have a new frame powder coated like what you see in the last two pictures is a lot more expensive. The new frame is about $3,000. The powder coat is $1,200 and then there is 33 hours of labor involved to have the frame replaced. At $80/hour of labor that’s $2,640. There’s also whatever you have to pay to have the frame transported to and from the powder coater to the shop that’s doing the work. I rented a flatbed with a liftgate. I think you’re probably looking at $7,000 to $7,500.
don67 Enthusiast

don67

Posted
Posted

Well, that didn't take long.    Four months of road salt and the frame of my 2018 Silverado has surface rust peeking through the wax coating all over the place.     

 

Then again I didn't expect it to hold up like my 2012 Volvo, which already looks better by comparison.   Looks like pressure washing & Krown will be a springtime ritual with the Chevy.

Doublebase Enthusiast

Doublebase

Posted
Posted
On 3/11/2019 at 11:15 AM, don67 said:

Well, that didn't take long.    Four months of road salt and the frame of my 2018 Silverado has surface rust peeking through the wax coating all over the place.     

 

Then again I didn't expect it to hold up like my 2012 Volvo, which already looks better by comparison.   Looks like pressure washing & Krown will be a springtime ritual with the Chevy.

Honestly you might want to Krown it twice a year. I fluid film my truck twice a year - and even that's not good enough - these "wet" rust applications do wash off....fluid film probably easier than the Krown. There's another product out there...can't remember the name of it...starts with a C and they use to preserve weapons (and people use it on frames, it's much more durable while also staying wet).

 

I just am finishing up with four months of salt on my 2018 myself....FF treatments and I only have rust in the spot where the lift arm goes under the frame (left front side). Other than that it looks pretty damn good....and I'm talking a LOT OF SALT. Every single day, just bathes in that stuff...I can't avoid it. Living in New England has to be one of the worst places on earth for rust. Well except for Canada, you guys invented salt brime. lol 

don67 Enthusiast

don67

Posted
Posted
On 3/17/2019 at 7:58 AM, Doublebase said:

Honestly you might want to Krown it twice a year. I fluid film my truck twice a year - and even that's not good enough - these "wet" rust applications do wash off

That'll certainly do it, but @ $120-140 per application it violates my personal policy of "cheap insurance".    I prefer to have a full oil spray done when the vehicle is new, and maybe every 2 or 3 years thereafter.   In the meantime I keep a can of spray goop around for quick touch-ups when swapping the tires every spring and fall.   Fluid Film, Rust Check, Corrosion Free... it's all good.   So is a spray bottle filled with WD40 and some vaseline or linseed oil.

 

In the end it's all about maximizing service life (or resale value) for as little $$$ as possible. 

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Doublebase Enthusiast

Doublebase

Posted
Posted
6 hours ago, don67 said:

That'll certainly do it, but @ $120-140 per application it violates my personal policy of "cheap insurance".    I prefer to have a full oil spray done when the vehicle is new, and maybe every 2 or 3 years thereafter.   In the meantime I keep a can of spray goop around for quick touch-ups when swapping the tires every spring and fall.   Fluid Film, Rust Check, Corrosion Free... it's all good.   So is a spray bottle filled with WD40 and some vaseline or linseed oil.

 

In the end it's all about maximizing service life (or resale value) for as little $$$ as possible. 

Understood. I try to save as much as I can, or spend with cost effectiveness in mind. I think it cost my buddy and I $150 for a five gallon container of fluid film, but I have a compressor and spray gun...should last me ten years (I’m not kidding). So I’m into it for $75...we’re four treatments into this container and it doesn’t look like we’ve even put a dent into it, but yeah if I had to pay $120 bucks a wack, I wouldn’t do it either.

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don67 Enthusiast

don67

Posted
Posted

I've done the DIY thing too, with my air compressor.   But I got tired of my sinuses being packed with oil, and my wife wasn't too crazy about the slick on the driveway either. ?

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Mozzer Enthusiast

Mozzer

Posted
Posted



. Well except for Canada, you guys invented salt brime. lol 


They use some liquid with molasses & some other stuff round here (Vernon, British Columbia) when it isn't too cold. That stays on the road when put down before snowfall rather than flying off like the salt.

No idea what molasses do for rust though.[emoji848]



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