Jump to content

New OPT7 H11 LED Headlight Bulbs


Recommended Posts

Posted

Links don't really work... I want easy,

Plug and play kit. Stock lights suck

 

 

Sent from my iPhone

  • Replies 271
  • Created
  • Last Reply
Posted

Links don't work??

 

Either the BPS Performance or OPT7 are easy plug n play solutions to improve the lighting from what I've seen so far.

Posted

Just added in some LED fogs and took a cpl pics. Heres one that shows my Opt7 headlight though

 

6c60922460d03768b7e51e77052df613.jpg

Which fogs did you purchase? They match nicely!!
Posted

Did any one have any problems with the H11 connectors for OPT7.

I noticed that the polarity switcher cable was very lose when connecting to the factory harness, and there is enough play in the spacing where the locking clip is to become un-plugged during operation.

I think I can fix it by using zip tie or some thing but wanted to know what you guys think.

 

Thanks,

Jonathan

I just got my set and they didn't fit. It would not go on the connector for headlights. I think they sent me the wrong kit. I ordered an H11 but the connector is way to large to fit into the trucks light socket. The box isn't marked to what kit this is.

 

Disappointed because today was my day to swap out all of the lights to LED. Got everything done except the headlights.

 

[emoji35]

Posted

Have been reading through several other threads that are over hundred pages long, as well as this entire one, and I have to agree with the general consensus that the lights suck, which is disappointing as I just bought a new '16 Silverado 1500 in March. Looking at all the info across the forum here, I'm still a little lost about what my options are. I have the LT Z71 with projector HIDs. Are my only options getting different bulbs? Will an LED conversion kit work with the stock projector HIDs? The Opt7 site isn't much help since you have to manually type in your vehicle make and model, which seems really dumb and counter-intuitive.

 

Any help is appreciated and I apologize for anything I may have asked that's been repetitive.

Posted

I installed the Morimoto elite HID system for my low beams and I put the opt7 leds in for my high beams and I am happy with them! in the high beam projector they throw light much better than my old stock ones.

Posted

HID output trumps LED output. If your truck already has HID projectors, only thing you should do is change to a CBI bulb.

Posted

Have been reading through several other threads that are over hundred pages long, as well as this entire one, and I have to agree with the general consensus that the lights suck, which is disappointing as I just bought a new '16 Silverado 1500 in March. Looking at all the info across the forum here, I'm still a little lost about what my options are. I have the LT Z71 with projector HIDs. Are my only options getting different bulbs? Will an LED conversion kit work with the stock projector HIDs? The Opt7 site isn't much help since you have to manually type in your vehicle make and model, which seems really dumb and counter-intuitive.

 

Any help is appreciated and I apologize for anything I may have asked that's been repetitive.

 

Your 2016 Silverado lights are that bad?

 

Thought the lighting on the '16 Silverados AND Sierras were much improved from what I've been reading.

Posted

If all I did was drive on an entirely level road, sure, but the minute there's a dip in the road, a sizable bump, or a hill, they suck. The light doesn't seem to project high enough. I can see a reflection from them on road signs well in the distance, but they barely make it out more than 50 yards. Couple that with rain and oncoming traffic, they're terrible. The standard halogens in my '06 Dakota did a better job. The high beams on this thing are AMAZING with light being thrown everywhere, but I obviously can't drive around with them on all the time.

Posted

I ordered some opt7 cree 5202 fogs and they came in today. Man, what a pain to fit. They did not want to squeeze in there at all. I think the top is latched, but not the bottom. They look good color wise, but hopefully they'll stay in the fog housing.

 

Edit - I went out at night and the output sucks. Might as well hold a candle in my hand. I did buy them to match my HID color, so I can't complain too much.

Posted

HID output trumps LED output. If your truck already has HID projectors, only thing you should do is change to a CBI bulb.

 

Guess I just need to find some H11 CBI bulbs then and see how they compare. If they're the same wattage as the stock ones, what's the real difference, if anything? Or should I look for something with a higher wattage specifically?

 

Seems like all I can find for H11 CBIs are a set of Osram 55w 4200K.

Posted

Oh man that was easy!! Love plug in play solutions. Got another OPT7 kit and it went in no problems. The connector was the right size this time. Changed everything over in 20 minutes. No error codes or anything can't wait to see it at night.

 

20160623_191936_zpseii1jpmr.jpg

 

 

I did put the dust covers back on after drilling a 1" hole in the back.

 

20160623_192015_zpsxhv4mnut.jpg

 

Looks good to go! Can't wait to see it at night.

 

Next up LED light bar behind the grill!!

Posted

Oh man that was easy!! Love plug in play solutions. Got another OPT7 kit and it went in no problems. The connector was the right size this time. Changed everything over in 20 minutes. No error codes or anything can't wait to see it at night.

 

20160623_191936_zpseii1jpmr.jpg

 

 

I did put the dust covers back on after drilling a 1" hole in the back.

 

20160623_192015_zpsxhv4mnut.jpg

 

Looks good to go! Can't wait to see it at night.

 

Next up LED light bar behind the grill!!

Would love to see what you did for the dust cap if you get a chance

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • Welcome back! No, it definitely doesn't pass the sniff test. Even "ceasefire" needs an alternative definition these days.    $5.29 at Kroger today
    • That makes sense, and I think you are describing the real product problem. Capturing data is the easy part. If the owner or technician has to manually dig through five minutes of millisecond-level logs, the product has already failed. The device would be at the ECM harness, not at the OBD port, so I agree that data retrieval and event marking need to be thought through carefully. The way I am thinking about the architecture is: The recorder itself should not depend on a phone, app, Bluetooth, Wi-Fi, or cloud connection to capture the event. It should always keep a local rolling buffer and lock the event locally. A button, phone app, or small cabin device would only act as an event marker. If the driver feels a stumble and presses the button 10–30 seconds later, the pre-buffer has to already contain the useful data. For data retrieval, the practical options would be a sealed service USB lead, Wi-Fi download, or a phone/cabin companion device. I would not expect the owner to remove the ECM-side module or work with raw files directly. The cloud or AI side would be for interpretation, not for capturing the event. The truck may have no connection when the issue happens, so the evidence has to be saved locally first. After that, cloud processing could help decode the data, compare it against baselines, and generate a readable report. For the first version, I would keep the automatic triggers conservative and objective: driver event marker bus-off error passive voltage drop / brownout device reset FIFO or queue overflow a normally periodic message disappearing side-to-side communication mismatch, if the topology supports that For “learning normal,” I agree with your point, but I would not want to overclaim it as automatic root-cause diagnosis at first. A realistic first step would be learned baseline comparison for that specific vehicle and operating condition. For example, a value would only be compared against similar conditions: RPM range load / MAP throttle position gear / vehicle speed coolant and oil temperature battery voltage AFM/DFM state, if decoded and validated Then the report could flag things like: this periodic message disappeared compared with its normal timing this value deviated from this vehicle’s normal range under similar conditions the same abnormal pattern repeated after the same type of event the anomaly occurred together with voltage, oil-pressure, misfire, or communication changes But I would still call that “abnormal pattern detected,” not “replace this part,” unless there is enough validated repair data behind it. So the intended product would not be “here is a huge log.” It would need to be an event package: what triggered the capture how much pre/post data was preserved what changed before and after the event whether the device itself reset, overflowed, or saw a bus error selected graphs around the event raw data only as supporting evidence From your perspective, what would make this kind of report useful instead of just another datalog? For example: What are the top 5 parameters or events you would want highlighted first? Would you trust a learned baseline for that specific vehicle, or would you prefer fixed thresholds? How much false-positive flagging would be acceptable before you stopped looking at the reports? What would a one-page report need to show for an independent shop to take it seriously? For misfire, AFM/DFM, oil pressure, or U-code complaints, what would you want the tool to flag automatically?
    • 2024 Silverado 2500 HD LTZ grille no camera Parts list   84603331 84913656 84913657 84913654 84913655 84911567 84911568 85646092 85646093 85797921 85797922   11570637  x10-15   grille/bumper bolts 11546500  x10      grille clips 11571006  x10      push/retainer clips 11546454  x6       nut retainers 11611609  x6       M5 bolts 11610700  x6       molding/trim retainers
    • And use RA's 5% discount code if you buy from them.  google for the code, one is always available.
    • Just don't turn the steering wheel as much?
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...