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LONG: Just back from first RV Trip: Towing Results - Seeking opinions


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9 hours ago, BigBadSierra said:

Here is my rig the trailer sits level under load.

 

35151264_10155145760546525_2572031286784

You're much more level than I was.  I'm glad to find that I can probably get there with some tweaking.  I was worried I'd have to get a new truck.

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The Equalizer is a great hitch but you have to keep it lubed or it makes a shitload of noise. I regularly lube the pivots on the hitch head and the receiver and it stays fairly quiet. It's also super easy to get hooked up, only take a couple minutes. As far as tech setup....yeah, not a good experience here. They were in the ballpark but it needed a lot of tweaking even before we loaded it up. With a good WDH properly set up, you'll be just fine. 

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On 6/14/2018 at 6:11 PM, catbox_eddie said:

Also agree with the shank height being the main problem. I have an Equalizer with a similar trailer (31.5ft, 5800lbs dry) and setup properly, it barely sags. It pogos a little bit when it's not loaded but when we're at full camp weight with water, firewood and all our gear, it's pretty smooth. The Equalizer is noisy as hell, but it works great. 

 

 

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IMG_1645.JPG

 

Have you had that setup over a set of scales?  It could just be the pics, but it looks like you're putting a LOT of weight on the front.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...

These hitches have several adjustments that need to be done in proper order. First is the ball height - most WD hitches say to set it for the measured height of the tongue (measured to the top inside of the coupler) when the TT is level. Then add some amount for every 100 lbs of loaded hitch wt. The idea here is to have the TT near level before the bars are attached.

 

The next adjustment is the hitch head tilt - this actually determines the amount of links and amount of tension the bars are going to have.

 

This is a trial and error adjustment most heads have a small bolt that will hold the head angle without tightening the top bolt also leave the lower bolt loose so the head can pivot around it.

 

When you are all done the truck, trailer, and WD should all be parallel to the ground - ie level. My WD hitch is an older EAZ Lift and they said to use no fewer that 2 and no more than 4 links This also gives you some adjustability if your loads change.

 

I usually plan on spending a good 1/2 day adjusting things. On my last TT the dealer left my hitch too low and then cranked the WD bars up to four links and they almost touched the TT frame - my 35mi ride home was really white knuckle. My next tow I set the bars lower and things were better. Then I sat down and did my full routine and ended up raising the hitch ball up to the next  set of holes. and put the head at full tilt and now use 2-3 links over on the chains and the ride is now easy - no more white knuckles.

 

Yes I do have a 2500 so my sag is less - I am also towing a 31'TT that weighs around 8000 lbs and probably close to 1000lbs on the tongue. I am using 1000lb bars - I also know from past experience that I really should have 1200 or 1400lb bars - that will be part of my next hitch - which may be something like a Blue Ox or Equal-I-zer brand.

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  • 4 months later...
On 7/14/2018 at 5:49 PM, 2017HD said:

These hitches have several adjustments that need to be done in proper order. First is the ball height - most WD hitches say to set it for the measured height of the tongue (measured to the top inside of the coupler) when the TT is level. Then add some amount for every 100 lbs of loaded hitch wt. The idea here is to have the TT near level before the bars are attached.

 

The next adjustment is the hitch head tilt - this actually determines the amount of links and amount of tension the bars are going to have.

 

This is a trial and error adjustment most heads have a small bolt that will hold the head angle without tightening the top bolt also leave the lower bolt loose so the head can pivot around it.

 

When you are all done the truck, trailer, and WD should all be parallel to the ground - ie level. My WD hitch is an older EAZ Lift and they said to use no fewer that 2 and no more than 4 links This also gives you some adjustability if your loads change.

 

I usually plan on spending a good 1/2 day adjusting things. On my last TT the dealer left my hitch too low and then cranked the WD bars up to four links and they almost touched the TT frame - my 35mi ride home was really white knuckle. My next tow I set the bars lower and things were better. Then I sat down and did my full routine and ended up raising the hitch ball up to the next  set of holes. and put the head at full tilt and now use 2-3 links over on the chains and the ride is now easy - no more white knuckles.

 

Yes I do have a 2500 so my sag is less - I am also towing a 31'TT that weighs around 8000 lbs and probably close to 1000lbs on the tongue. I am using 1000lb bars - I also know from past experience that I really should have 1200 or 1400lb bars - that will be part of my next hitch - which may be something like a Blue Ox or Equal-I-zer brand.

Thanks for replying.  I guess I missed the notification.  This is really good info.  

 

We're planning to go to the RV show in Tampa next month. I think if we're getting one, It'll be then.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

Get a pro-pride hitch and be done with it. No sway ever.

You can drive with one finger in 30mph crosswinds. Nothing will stop the big rigs from sucking you in and spitting you out on the interstate as they pass you. I have friends with fifth wheels and it does the same to them. The pro-pride makes a TT pull just like a fifth wheel. It projects the pivot point to the rear axle instead of at the ball. Once installed it never turns on the ball.

 

 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

 

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