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Catch Can Skeptic


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3 hours ago, GPHusker said:

Lost me on that one. 

Sorry to get so technical, 

 

I just meant that it's very important to explain the function and how performance can be affected in different temperatures with different catch cans and how critical location is for winter months. You're all set as long as your not freezing or having restrictions or flow issues. Feel free to pm me or ask any questions.

 

 Have a great weekend, Joe

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Joe i have issues with mine. It is mounted on the booster to stay warm. But it fills up to quick. I can pull a cup out per week mostly water but still. I only have 12.5-15psi.
So it works too well and I am lazy. I want a auto solenoid that i can wire a relay to so where the truck turns of it opens. Thanks

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

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  • 1 year later...
On 7/3/2019 at 1:42 PM, Joe@UPRproducts said:

Just a heads up with catch cans in cold weather.

 

1.) Drain them immediately after your done driving for the day while the contents are still warm and will flow out.

2.) Make sure you catch can system is mounted close to the engine or exhaust so it operates at engine temps or close.

3.) Most important is not to mount catch can far away from engine heat and make sure the can is designed to coalesce efficiently in heat.

4.) Some people even run a cloth winter sock on the catch can or wrap them to keep them warm and insulated.

5.) Never leave the contents in the can from the day before in freezing weather or can blow a seal or vc gasket if its overfull.

 

UPR Catch Cans are designed to run in the hottest locations and weather and coalesce properly in that environment 

 

so you will never experience any of the above issues with a UPR Catch Can if you follow the simple steps.

 

Just wanted to share. 

 

Everyone grab you UPR Catch Can Systems while the 4th Of July Sale is running and you can see the code in 

the image below or on the rotating banners of the UPR Website homepage.

 

10% OFF CODE: USA2019

 

Thank you and have a happy and safe 4th of July!

i did blew a rear main seal on my 2017 wen runing a upr catch can so they still freeze... i removed it and will never put it back 400$ well spend... it was working but not worth hurthing the engine... ill just clean the intake valve when i can

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math_10silverado

 

We have several new designs coming out that eliminate all crankcase pressure issues and they will be available in the next month or two. Feel free to contact me 

for any questions as they are a blessing for all engine seals and letting out every bit of positive crankcase pressure without causing any vacuum issues. We have 

several patents in process before we release as it's a completely new design for any climate or power level.

 

Feel free to PM as I can guarantee it will perform perfect in any conditions.

 

Joe

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1 hour ago, Joe@UPRproducts said:

math_10silverado

 

 

We have several new designs coming out that eliminate all crankcase pressure issues and they will be available in the next month or two. Feel free to contact me 

for any questions as they are a blessing for all engine seals and letting out every bit of positive crankcase pressure without causing any vacuum issues. We have 

several patents in process before we release as it's a completely new design for any climate or power level.

 

Feel free to PM as I can guarantee it will perform perfect in any conditions.

 

Joe

that sound interesting ill be looking for that

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I have an Elite Engineering catch can, it definitely collects moisture and oil. Especially if I'm running my truck hard. Is it saving my engine from carbon build up? I'll find out sooner or later. So far though, I have prevented a significant amount of oily moisture from reentering the intake. 

 

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anyone try swithcing to a thicker oil yet, or you guys still gonna run watery oil in your motors, makes me wonder if 0w-20 is a reason for the failure issues on the AFM lifters too..? makes ya think .. 'im switched over to 5-w30  and  caught about 2 Table spoons in 5000 miles

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6 minutes ago, flyingfool said:

anyone try swithcing to a thicker oil yet, or you guys still gonna run watery oil in your motors, makes me wonder if 0w-20 is a reason for the failure issues on the AFM lifters too..? makes ya think .. 'im switched over to 5-w30  and  caught about 2 Table spoons in 5000 miles

I switched to 10W30 and have zero in my catch can. Wait........I don't run a can..........:crackup:

 

Only W40 I've seen with a Dexos license. 

 

HavolineProDS5W40.jpg.5a5f8957ceea0ba3f5a97deac5fb7961.jpg

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now your motivating me to re-install the factory pcv line and take out the catch can set up..  who would of thought the oil was the problem from the beginning, lol  we're all such suckers ....scary stuff 

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8 hours ago, flyingfool said:

now your motivating me to re-install the factory pcv line and take out the catch can set up..  who would of thought the oil was the problem from the beginning, lol  we're all such suckers ....scary stuff 

You know the drill. If there's no oil in the PCV line.............

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11 hours ago, flyingfool said:

anyone try swithcing to a thicker oil yet, or you guys still gonna run watery oil in your motors, makes me wonder if 0w-20 is a reason for the failure issues on the AFM lifters too..? makes ya think .. 'im switched over to 5-w30  and  caught about 2 Table spoons in 5000 miles

If you want to think hard about it the 0W-20 aids in keeping the lifters from failing in owners vehicles vs the 30 on typical owner maintenance habits.  Not to mention the outsourced lifter MFG's quality control that contributes to majority of failures?

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  • 1 month later...

Hey guys. Bumping an old thread here as I wanted to share some information on the topic... nothing scientific just a real-world sample.

 

So I put an Elite Engineering E2-X catch can on my 2016 L86 Yukon XL Denali when I bought it new... can went on around 300 miles in. I did not install the clean side separator. I used Mobil1 0w20 Annual Performance and M1-113A filter... changed the oil and filter every 4k miles (don't flame me for wasting money). I've recently switched over to Amsoil Signature full synthetic 0w20 and Amsoil filter as well. Should also note, I've been running a tune and have had DOD disabled from day 1.

 

Okay, details out of the way, I took my intake manifold off this past weekend as the curiosity got the best of me and I wanted to see what the valves looked like. Behold the results. Note, the valves got cleaner as you worked you way to the rear of the engine. I should confirm, I'm right at 54,500 miles. Curious what you all think. Just wanted to share this use case from a vehicle that has basically had a can on it from the start as the only owner. I was pretty tired from the gymnastics session in and out of the engine bay so apologies the pictures aren't professional. was having trouble holding a light, my phone and not end up falling out on to the garage floor :)

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Edited by wingsaa
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