Jump to content

GM Stepping Up on Brake Issue

2017Darkness
 Share

Recommended Posts

2017Darkness Enthusiast

2017Darkness

Posted
Posted (edited)

Well, here it is:

N182202780 - Special Coverage Adjustment - Brake Assist Decreased Due to Vacuum Loss

GLOBAL SAFETY FIELD INVESTIGATIONS

DCS5013

URGENT - DISTRIBUTE IMMEDIATELY

 

Date:       April 10, 2019

              

Subject:   N182202780 - Special Coverage

                Brake Assist Decreased due to Vacuum Loss

              

Models:   2014 – 2017 Cadillac Escalade, Escalade ESV

                2014 – 2017 Chevrolet Silverado, Suburban, Tahoe

                2014 – 2017 GMC Sierra, Yukon, Yukon XL

              

To:           All General Motors Dealers

 

General Motors is releasing Special Coverage N182202780 today.  The total number of U.S. vehicles involved is approximately 3,357,584.  Please see the attached bulletin for details. 

 

 

This special coverage covers the condition described above for a period of 6 years or 72,000 miles (116,000 km), whichever occurs first, from the date the vehicle was originally placed in service, regardless of ownership. For vehicles covered by Vehicle Service Contracts, all eligible claims with repair orders on or after April 10, 2019 for US, (April 11, 2019 for Canada), are covered by this special coverage and must be submitted using the labor operation codes provided with this bulletin. Claims with repair orders prior to April 10, 2019 for US, (April 11, 2019 for Canada), must be submitted to the Service Contract provider. Vehicle owners or lessees who paid for repairs referenced in this Special Coverage (“Customers”) are eligible for reimbursement of their reasonable and customary expenses in accordance with the procedures specified below.

 

Edited by 2017Darkness
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
  • Replies 82
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

2017Darkness
2017Darkness

Well, here it is: N182202780 - Special Coverage Adjustment - Brake Assist Decreased Due to Vacuum Loss GLOBAL SAFETY FIELD INVESTIGATIONS DCS5013 URGENT - DISTRIBUTE IMMEDI

Grjfer
Grjfer

Call my dealer today, to inquire about the extended service period. They referred me to GM. I called GM and they referred me back to the dealer. I hope this isn't a series of run around.  

Jglew82
Jglew82

If you deactivate AFM and tune for it then that's probably possible, but a better route is to use the electric vacuum pump like the Vettes have. The thoughts behind implementing the vacuum pump was du

JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted

Where do you go to see if your VIN is involved?

 

Or is that a total for all vehicle's sold during that period?

paumat Enthusiast

paumat

Posted
Posted

So they aren’t going to do any preemptive fix.  Just extending the warranty on the vacuum pump and paying for those who have already replaced it. 

 

I wonder if if they’ll cover other damages if pump failure results in an accident. 

  • Like 1
Mike GMC Enthusiast

Mike GMC

Posted
Posted

Why does it not include the 18's?  Did they change something for 18?  If they did it will be a surprise to me.

  • Like 1
MaverickZ71 Senior Enthusiast

MaverickZ71

Posted
Posted

NHTSA must be seriously sniffing around them, or history has shown that they wouldn't even do this.  

 

PS  Where is the recall for the rest of the GM Takata airbags????

  • Like 1
pickmeup Enthusiast

pickmeup

Posted
Posted

The heat was coming and they played their hand I would say. You can bet if not for safety they would have done nothing imo. GM seems to have this attitude if it isn't safety related and NHTSA will get involved then screw em. Right wrong or indifferent makes no difference it appears . Now about that AC condensor that is known for failure . LOL. Yeah I know it not safety related so its not GM problem they are junk ....its yours you bought it . Indeed I did. 

2017Darkness Enthusiast

2017Darkness

Posted
  • Author
Posted
14 hours ago, JimCost2014 said:

Where do you go to see if your VIN is involved?

 

Or is that a total for all vehicle's sold during that period?

It is a "if you have a problem" fix, or special coverage if the issue occurs to your vehicle. Your signature shows a 2018, so you wouldn't be covered....

1997SierraSLT Enthusiast

1997SierraSLT

Posted
Posted

GM's actuaries have determined that it is more cost effective to simply offer an extended warranty.  Fixing the issue cost money and GM is betting the out of pocket expense to settle lawsuits involving fatalities and damage to property is far less.

 

Sure gives you a warm fuzzy feeling knowing the next time your wife takes the GM vehicle on a road trip packed full of kids, it could be the last time you see them, eh?

SILVER SLED Senior Enthusiast

SILVER SLED

Posted
Posted (edited)

I'd like to see if anybody has one that is covered under this special policy.  I ran across a 15 Silverado that has the issue, but does not have the special coverage.  It's an LT 4wd 5.3.  And the 72,000 miles is BS,

 

For what it's worth, there is a bulletin extending the warranty for the PCV plugging/freezing up and then blowing out the rear main seal on 4cyl Equinox's, Terrains.  Every one I've seen come in (eight of them) was out of warranty and ironically not covered under the special policy warranty extension. It fell under the parameters of the bulletin, but the coverage didn't show up under the specific vins.

Edited by SILVER SLED
  • Like 1
JimCost2014 Senior Enthusiast

JimCost2014

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, 2017Darkness said:

It is a "if you have a problem" fix, or special coverage if the issue occurs to your vehicle. Your signature shows a 2018, so you wouldn't be covered....

We also have a 2016 Tahoe, that is the one I am concerned about.

DeePa Enthusiast

DeePa

Posted
Posted

My pedal has started to get hard when parallel parking and backing into spots. 

 

I have an apt at the dealer Tuesday and they better change it. 

 

What at are some symptoms? Mine is a hard pedal when I’m in parking lots and my vac pump has had a loud tick once per engine rev ever since new. 

Sierra Dan Senior Enthusiast

Sierra Dan

Posted
Posted (edited)

Should be 100K if you ask me.

This will leave many owners out in the dust that are beyond 72K

 

So does this coverage automatically cover replacement of the vacuum pump or only if you report a problem and they "replicate" the problem?

Edited by Sierra Dan
  • Like 1
wforrest08 Senior Enthusiast

wforrest08

Posted
Posted
4 hours ago, DeePa said:

My pedal has started to get hard when parallel parking and backing into spots. 

 

I have an apt at the dealer Tuesday and they better change it. 

 

What at are some symptoms? Mine is a hard pedal when I’m in parking lots and my vac pump has had a loud tick once per engine rev ever since new. 

Hard pedal at low speeds is one of the symptoms of low vacuum/loss of brake assist 

TwoBallScrewBall Enthusiast

TwoBallScrewBall

Posted
Posted

We have a new 2018 (4 months old) with 4000 miles and my wife just got the "Service Brake Assist" and a hard, pulsating pedal every time she applied the brakes this morning.   Turned the truck off then started back up and everything seemed fine.   Do they think the 2018's are not affected?  We tow a camper with this truck all the time, I don't need to be losing power brakes with ~6000lbs of trailer hooked up and my 2 kids in the back seat.   Will be calling the dealer about this later today. 

SILVER SLED Senior Enthusiast

SILVER SLED

Posted
Posted
30 minutes ago, TwoBallScrewBall said:

We have a new 2018 (4 months old) with 4000 miles and my wife just got the "Service Brake Assist" and a hard, pulsating pedal every time she applied the brakes this morning.   Turned the truck off then started back up and everything seemed fine.   Do they think the 2018's are not affected?  We tow a camper with this truck all the time, I don't need to be losing power brakes with ~6000lbs of trailer hooked up and my 2 kids in the back seat.   Will be calling the dealer about this later today. 

It's not too uncommon for GM to update a bulletin down the road to include the next year.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • richard wysong
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By richard wysong · Posted

      Is it time to put a piece of tape over the CEL? 
    • davester
      2015 Silverado 3500 right rear turn indicator failure

      By davester · Posted

      consider doing electrical testing?  I would guess some power or ground wire/connection has a problem.   alldata.com has wiring diagrams, connector pinouts and diagnostic procedures you can use to find where the problem is.
    • davester
      My First Project and GMC has me stumped

      By davester · Posted

      can you tell if the reader is actually trying to get codes, and the pcm is reporting none, or is your reader just silently failing because it's not communicating with the pcm?
    • Atlas
      Wow I'm in a pickle. (Broke down truck) and a story.

      By Atlas · Posted

      Any joy with this truck seems to be short-lived.   The CEL for P0172 ("bank 1" too rich) is now "intermittent".   I'm not sure where to check, or re-check, and my energy to keep chasing problems with junk is wearing thin. The P0172 seems to set as I'm coming to a stop, completely off the throttle, when fully warm. At least, that's what it's done the 3? times it's set.   Everything appears normal on the scanner EXCEPT long term fuel trim. There's only one bank on this vehicle because it's an OBD 1.5 with only one upstream O2 sensor. At idle, it's around -16.4% and will dip to -18% occasionally at idle or off-throttle. LTFT approaches 0 when throttle is held at 2500rpm. Short term appears normal, much closer to zero all the time. The LTFT tells me the engine is running rich at idle but compensating at higher load. But, why?   The EVAP purge valve doesn't appear to be leaking/sucking fuel vapor continuously. Is it sticking just as I come to a stop and the engine is choking on fuel vapor and sets the P0172? But that doesn't explain the persistently negative LTFT. Disconnecting the purge valve doesn't seem to make any difference.   I suppose that leaves another dang issue with the fuel injector. A leaking fuel pressure regulator, a new leak in the spider, or a leaking fuel injector/poppet valve I didn't see, or a small crack in one of the spider legs.   The vacuum line leading to the fuel pressure regulator doesn't have raw fuel in it. It doesn't even smell like fuel when it's pulled off, not until you suck air through it, then you can tell it leads to a fuel component. I'd consider that normal? Nothing is signaling this is a FPR issue from the outside, at least.   The oil smells like fuel but it's not building volume. I've noticed most oil in most engines smells like fuel to some degree so it's hard to say if the smell is an issue or not. Or if the engine just still smells like fuel because the crankcase was full of it a few hundred miles ago. But it's been changed twice since that original issue of the leaking fuel line dumping fuel into the intake.   Patience is running very thin. Every win seems to be accompanied by two steps backwards, or another issue that leads to removing at least the top half of the intake manifold. Enough! LOL
    • Chuck FB
      Tire pressure for 37s

      By Chuck FB · Posted

      First off you mentioned "Toyo Says" and then gave the pressures 45/50, was this some person at the tire shop that pulled those numbers out of his head ?   Now of course I can't know your exact axle weights front and rear, however I have much the same pickup as yourself other than not knowing your starting weight as per the pounds the truck rolled out of the factory at due to the options yours did or didn't come with or what you have added beyond the extra tire weight. The correct way to know 100% where a person is at is by weighing each axle with the typical weight the vehicle is driven with and that means taking into account passengers and making sure you figure in a full tank of fuel and a little grace for whatever you may put in the bed "groceries" !    I am looking at and not that it really matters as all the tire companies use the same charts anyway, but I am looking at the comprehensive Toyo tire chart in the section that your tire falls under and I know it sounds confusing but your tire is not an LT metric tire like your factory tire but instead because its a standard inch measured tire its under a different category called an LT floatation series tire. That makes a difference as LT metric tires they don't want to see run below 35 psi at highway speed where as with the LT floatation series it can be run down to 25 psi on the highway as long as the weight on the said size of tire is agreeable with or less than that minimum 25 psi. It blows many people away that how is this physically possible, an empty truck for one thing and larger tires with the same size wheel diameter have a lot more air volume so they can carry the same weight as the smaller tire with less air pressure.    So my truck, I have the stock 275/65R20 wheels and tires and I have a bit of weight in the box with a bak flip cover and a rubber bed mat and some tools and spare gas. The front of my gas truck weighs a bit more than some trucks of the similar spec due to double batteries and alternators. However with full fuel and just me in the truck I am weighted such that I can run 40 front and 35 rear and so that is what I have done since day one.    If I base your truck at or slightly below the weight of my truck, in theory with your tires going by the tire chart you might be right around a minimum of 30 pounds front and 25 pounds rear. Of course that would hit pretty much minimum cold inflation pressure one could run with that tire size and a near empty truck. If you have access to an accurate weigh scale to do individual front and rear axle weights I would suggest you do that and make sure your topped up with fuel and whatever else in the truck before you weigh it and then you will have a great starting point to work off of and figure out what your bare minimum pressures are you can safely run. If you do much in the way of hot weather high speed driving, bumping up a bit for a safety margin is never a bad idea but just depends on what type of driving you do. I will include the Toyo chart and the floatation series sizes start on page 31. Without a doubt at these pressures I am speculating at minimum wise for your truck, it would most certainly ride very different then it did when you were using 55 lb front and rear.     https://www.toyotires.com/media/pxcjubjs/application_of_load_inflation_tables_20200723.pdf

  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...