I replaced these wheels with aftermarket at the 2,000 mile mark. They are like new, as you can see in the pictures. I'm selling them all together (four Denali wheels, the spare, and five Goodyear Wranglers with full tread life). The Wranglers are 265/70R18. The 8x180 lug pattern is for the HDs, but they can be adapted to different lug patterns if you're trying to update an older model truck.
They're all beautiful with no curb scuffs or damage of any kind. I'm asking $1,000 for all five, but I'm somewhat flexible on that if you make a solid offer early. You can come pick them up, or I'm willing to ship them if you're willing to pay the shipping. PM me if interested or post publicly if you have any questions that could benefit the group.
A flat Good Year Wrangler SR-A set the tire shopping in motion, and a 10% off sale on Nittos convinced me to try the 35x11.50r20 Ridge Grapplers.
My goal was to get as much tire as possible without having to adjust the suspension so as to retain the stock ride, keep costs down, and achieve the aesthetic I like for modern 4x4 trucks. I was prepared to crank the front keys a few turns for up to 1" of leveling, but my preference was to avoid this if possible.
Ridge grapplers have two sidewall designs on the tire; one side reminded me of Transformers, so I went with the more subdued sidewall. This doesn't impact fitment.
After about 20 miles of driving and some parking lot testing turning the steering back and forth, the tires fit fine with only a few close spots throughout the range of motion. I've seen people report frame rub at full lock with these sizes; it hasn't happened to my truck yet, but I wouldn't be surprised if it rubs mildly while turning sharply over rough terrain.
Rear clearance is fine.
A few tips:
Check the actual dimensions of the tire you're choosing. The Nittos are 35s, but the actual diameter is about 34.7". Each manufacturer is a little different, and most list the true dimensions on their websites. The same applies to metric sizes - a BFG may be narrower than a Toyo. Looking at my truck, 35x12.50r20 would have fit too, but would probably rub on the wheel wells while going over bumps during a turn. The 11.50s provide just enough extra room that my truck has yet to rub, though my mileage count is low (20 miles since install) so I'll update this thread as I add miles. Expect to lose fuel economy. No data yet, but I anticipate a 1-2 MPG drop. Aftermarket wheels change everything. The popular offset or "poking" look makes it harder to stuff big tires without a lift. If you're changing wheels and tires, disregard this thread.
Fresh oil, a detail, and maybe a front window tint. I'd like a Corsa, but they're $$$.
Please excuse the dirty truck:
By that modern carpenter
Hey guys, I'm having a real tough time with my 2013 chevrolet silverado 4.8L V8 the engine is an L20 Vortec.
I'm getting all these nasty fault codes and they are intermittent and usually start acting up when I'm driving in the city.
When the engine is warm and I stop in traffic, or hit a crawl speed. The truck normally kicks into "limp mode" and all these fault codes start up ex. P2544 ( regularly) P150C, P069E, and recently P0700. now there is a list of communication codes, but normally its U0073, U0100, and U0109.
I've gone to a few auto shops and they kinda said god luck, The dealer had no idea what i was talking about, started with cleaning all my grounds, as well as my fuses, everything seems to be in order. My brother (who is a mechanic) seems to think my TCM is at fault and not working, but I'm hesitant to call that the problem because Im pretty sure its in my transmission which seems like a fairly big job.
Everything else runs fine and there is no problems at all when the truck isn't acting up. Any thoughts or suggestions? I'm pretty desperate to fix this as I plan on taking it to Alaska in july
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