Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

During a dark and rainy 3 am jumping of another truck, it became clear there is no lighting in the engine compartment of my 2018 Silverado. The previous truck had a light under the hood and the generation prior to that had a removable work light that could be placed on the locations. Not to mention that truck also had jumper cables builtin to jump Fords. So my question is has anyone added lighting under the hood? if so how? 

Posted
6 minutes ago, Patrick S Kelley Jr. said:

During a dark and rainy 3 am jumping of another truck, it became clear there is no lighting in the engine compartment of my 2018 Silverado. The previous truck had a light under the hood and the generation prior to that had a removable work light that could be placed on the locations. Not to mention that truck also had jumper cables builtin to jump Fords. So my question is has anyone added lighting under the hood? if so how? 

I have not seen an under the hood light on a GM truck since GMT400 platfom (1988-1998)

Now days, most just use their cell phone flashlight.

Posted

Super easy to install one. And super cheap but why? Hope you dont break down that much....[emoji39]

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
51 minutes ago, Sierra Dan said:

I have not seen an under the hood light on a GM truck since GMT400 platfom (1988-1998)

Now days, most just use their cell phone flashlight.

my 2007 had a light

 

Posted
Just now, Patrick S Kelley Jr. said:

my 2007 had a night

 

A simple light or did it have the reel and cord like my '94?

 

Posted
Just now, 1SLOW1500 said:

Super easy to install one. And super cheap but why? Hope you dont break down that much....emoji39.png

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk
 

To make it easier to jump all those Fords. ;)

Posted
my 2007 had a night
 
NBS or older body style? I had a 03 a 04 Escalade and a 07 ltz and none had it

Sent from my SM-N960U using Tapatalk

Posted
Just now, Sierra Dan said:

A simple light or did it have the reel and cord like my '94?

 

No, it was a simple light. the reel and cord ones were awesome. 

Posted

My 2000 Sierra has an underhood light.  It has constant power with a built in weighted level switch.  So when you open the hood and tilt it, it comes on, a small spring turns it off when closed.  It's not real bright, but better than nothing.

Posted

My old man had it in his 1983 Chevrolet 1500... it was pretty dim but came with a retractable cord. To an impressionable 11 year old, that was some high-tech shit!

Posted

My underhood light is the super cheap/old school method. I have one of the old mercury style switches off a old 1970 something caprice that I just drilled 2 small holes and screwed it under the hood. I mounted it in the center towards the back of the engine and it gives enough light to see things like fuses, battery cables, oil/tranny level, etc. I just poked a small hole in the noise shield under the hood so I could fish my +12v wire from the second battery under the hood to the light and have it on a 5 amp fuse so if it shorts out it won't burn anything in the truck. I did have a LED bulb in the socket for the hood light but the heat from under the hood was so high that it burned up the bulb so I just gave up on it and put a halogen bulb in there instead. The LED worked fantastic for lighting up the engine bay but didn't last more than a month in my silverado. It lasted years in my old Envoy though.

 

If you wanted to, you could get some strip LED lights and a new style tilt switch that is used for car alarms and screw the tilt switch in under the hood so that when it closes the circuit it can send power to your lights. I thought about tapping into the factory hood switch on my truck since I have remote start but didn't want to interfere with anything so I left it alone as it controls my alarm system and both factory and aftermarket remote starts.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Latest Articles

  • Posts

    • "Teardown" is complete. Head surfaces are clean and ready, new intake is prepped and ready. Coolant drained and water pump is removed, radiator is removed, new hoses and pump are ready.   The replacement intake is also from a '95 (with I think 260k, the odometer said). Noticeably less pitting where it covers the rear coolant passages. I'm not sure if that's a tribute to more frequent use, more frequent coolant changes/upkeep, or if the intake was machined at some point. But it appears I found a good one.   My coolant hoses were original, and the lower hose still retained the factory spring inside. It's not really rusty, but it's got deposits all over it. Unsure if I should re-install it (will thoroughly clean it first). Someone said hose technology has gotten better since 1995 (has it?) and I don't need the spring. I think modern EPDM is what made those hoses last from 1995-2026, so it's a question of how much suction can the water pump really pull, and will it collapse the hose without a spring?   I'm stopped and waiting for parts, however.   When I first brought the truck home, the fan was intermittently hitting the radiator shroud. I could see someone had monkeyed with the shroud (put a bunch of cardboard as a spacer between the upper/lower shroud halves. Someone said the motor mounts have likely failed and the engine has sagged. I wasn't sure I believed that. The engine is really solid in its mounts: To remove the old intake I *just* nearly permanently welded to the heads with freshly cured RTV and gasket snot two weeks ago, I literally had to use the arms on my lift and a chain with a bolt attached to the intake to pull it loose. It almost picked the front of the truck off the ground before ....scuuuuuuuuuuup.... I could actually hear the gaskets tearing and it broke loose and the whole truck settled back down. Motor barely moved.   SO, those parts I'm waiting on... The lower radiator mounts/bushings had completely failed. The radiator needs to be insulated from the rad support, and the bushings help the rad stand at the correct height. The plastic "baffle" was also destroyed at some point. Someone had attached the shroud to it incorrectly, overlapping a joint that should have been underlapped, creating another suspect issue potentially causing things to hit the fan. Broken tabs, side is busted off, and it's perma-formed/bent where it was jimmied incorrectly.   The baffle? Unobtainum. Long since discontinued from GM, of course. Aftermarket/capa/chinese? Also unobtanium. In GM's infinite wisdom, it appears there are at least two different variations whether the Blazer is 2 or 4 door, and I can't yet tell if they shared the same part with the S-pickups. Plan B, if I can't find a viable used one, will be to create a bracket to re-assemble the critical joint I need to seal a gap with the shroud. But that will bug me, it won't be...perfect.   The water pump bolts appear to have been installed with...plumber's putty. I guess, sure, if it works...? I've found a few "backyard fixes" like that. Someone's been here before....   If I can't find someone to jam bamboo under my fingernails to fill my free time this week I think I'll install the driver's power window motor and replace the rear door speaker that's inop. I've got a genuine GM "9.5" ohm working replacement. Why GM used a non-standard resistance....nevermind. Of course they did, you can get more sound from a cheap factory amp that way.   And the saga goes on...
    • // Thank you, also for your  response. More information is always good. This 2013 GMC is most likely my 'forever truck"-I'm 77 and retired...and truck only has 42K on it-very clean-so I try to keep it that way.  Tks again for your  response- glenn
    • I started my install this weekend. Everything was pretty straight forward but I ran into one issue with running power through the firewall. The nipple grommet on my High Country already has a small harness running through it - has anyone else ran into this issue? And on the engine bay side, does the wire basically just penetrate the factory wiring boot? I did this on my '22 Trail Boss and it seems much easier but thats been a few years. My other thought would be possibly drilling a new hole adding a rubber grommet just to the lower left of the factory hole. Thoughts?   Has anyone used a T-harness off the Bose amp and obtained power from there? It seems a little odd that such a small amp needs 3 power leads
    • ///// Ok--Thanks for that info--I could not find yesterday when I looked for the specs on that NAPA filter what I wanted. Their website is not very user friendly. I buy all teh filters for  our three vehicles once or twice a year. Have always run NAPA Gold on everything I own....I buy it thru my Son's account for his business-which he has a Heavy Equipment repair shop-one reason he uses NAPA so much-they have such a full line of coverage for just about anything/anywhere- He gets s  good discount because of volume bought. Anyway-Thank you -Sir for your response.   glenn
    • It is possible to add your own 12v outlet to your truck.  Check out this video:   I verified via GM Upfitters that pin 31 is the same on the 1500 trucks.  The wire is GM part number 84779405.   You can get the GM 12v outlet from Amazon  https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Accessory-Receptacle-25774623-13549530/dp/B0F1H9YRGF EWAY 12 Volt Power Adapter for GM   https://www.amazon.com/EWAY-Chevrolet-Silverado-Cigarette-Ignition/dp/B0915RRW6Q/ref=sr_1_1?   I just haven't figured out a good place to put the 12v outlet in my truck.   Some people are getting USB-C to 12V adapters  https://www.amazon.com/WYMECT-Cigarette-Lighter-Socket-Adapter/dp/B0F87WNQKB/ref=sr_1_1_sspa? Not sure if they provide the correct amperage that a device like a tire inflator would need.  
  • GM-Trucks.com Clubs

  • Popular Contributors

×
×
  • Create New...